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Monday, April 30, 2001 Online Edition 17

Easter in Paradise 

Hot sun, refreshing water, spectacular views and nice people highlight holiday vacation on Roatan 

Gentle waves caress the beach at Half Moon Bay.  The crystal clear, refreshingly cool water grows a darker blue as depth increases. (Photo by Jon Torrance.)Gentle waves caress the beach at Half Moon Bay.  The crystal clear, refreshingly cool water grows a darker blue as depth increases. (Photo by Jon Torrance.)

 

By C.F. AGURCIA

(First of two parts) 

When people speak of Honduras and tourism, they tend to mention two places: the ruins of Copan and the Bay Islands.  My father is an archaeologist, so my ties to the ruins have been strong, to say the least.  I guess that is why I waited so long to visit the Islands.  Now that I know what they are like, I mourn for all the time I have been missing them.

Easter holiday is prime vacation-time for Honduras.  People from inside the country travel outward toward its beaches and its islands.  This Easter holiday, I got a plane ticket to Roatan island and struck out for an adventure on my own.

My first sight of Roatan was just after sunset.  The waters of the Caribbean were still golden-red from the sun's light when I caught sight of the long, tall green island.  After landing in Coxen Hole, I spent only a short time there before gong to my final destination on the island: West End.  A word to the wise: cab-fare from the airport to West End should cost you no more than Lps. 60; don't let an abusive cabdriver take a chunk out of your travelling funds.

It was dark by the time I reached West End.  This portion of the island, I was told, is the most oriented toward tourists.  It is dominated by a sand road that leaves the beach on one side and all the stores, hotels, restaurants and bars on the other side.  My hotel, Valerie's, was not hard to find at all.  After checking in, I went back outside to absorb the ambience.

 

LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT

I immediately fell in love.  A soft breeze caressed my skin and brought with it the scents of the ocean and of the tropical dinners being cooked.  Back and forth around me walked people of different stature, looks, colors and nationalities.  The palm trees waved and sang with the wind, joining in with the sounds of reggae music coming from somewhere nearby.  I knew then that I was somewhere different, a place Honduras holds apart from its mainland.

That initial night in West End I soaked up the environment and let it depressurize my insides.  Little by little I could feel the stress melting away.  The hustle and bustle of city life, that constant beat that knocks away in our heads, grew pale, faded into the background, and was forgotten.  I was not completely aware of all of these changes occurring inside me, but I did feel looser, more comfortable and secure that my adventure was going to be fun.

Now, let me describe the hotel.  Valerie's is a conjunction of different rooms stuck in odd places.  You can stay in a hostel-like room with bunk beds or in your own private room if you would like.  Valerie, the owner, moved to Roatan from Chicago in the 1980s, she is a sweet lady with a big heart and cares for each of her guests, which come from all over the world, as if they were her own children.  "I've reared five younger brothers and four sons," she says.  "They have their own lives now, so the people who stay here are like my own boys."

Valerie is a warm, caring lady who cares for those that stay with her.  Her "boys," as she calls them, come from all parts of the planet like Denmark, England or the United States. (Photo by C.F. Agurcia) 

HELPING HAND

Valerie actually has a program that helps international tourists in distress.  If tourists are robbed and left with nothing, they can contact authorities and ask to be sent to Valerie's, where she will take care of them, free of charge until they get back on their own two feet.

I stayed in one of the hostel-like rooms, sharing it with two Spaniards that first night.  The next morning, I saw something that convinced me of how safe the hotel was and how gentle the lady who owned it.  I walked to the office to ask Valerie for advice on what to do when I came across a tiny bird sitting just outside her door.  I knelt down to study it and discovered that it was a baby humming bird!

"She's learning how to fly, the other one flew away already," Valerie popped her head out the door and saw me awed by the tiny creature.  "Her mom must be around somewhere."  I saw the mother hummingbird seconds later and then Val showed me the nest where the eggs had been laid and hatched, right outside her door.

Inspired by the new life I saw, I walked out the hotel and headed for Half Moon Bay.  The morning sun's rays graced the bay and I gasped in emotion.  I had never seen a beach like this except in magazines and on TV.  Coral white sand covered most of the crescent-shaped beach.  The crystal clear blue waters showed the white sand underneath grow darker as it went deeper until it hit the reef.

I basked in the sun for a while, and when I grew hot, I splashed in.  The water was refreshing, but not cold, and I floated languidly and thought of nothing but the way the gentle lapping waves went up and down.  This was why I was here.  This was paradise in Honduras's front yard and I had but scratched the tip of the iceberg.  There was more to come.

Tune in next week for the conclusion of Easter in Paradise.

 

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COPAN UPDATE
By Howard Rozenzweig

Good news for National Park Lovers.  The Punta Izopo Protected Area recently was moved up a notch and declared a National Park.  Excellent tours to Punta Izopo are run by Tela-based Garifuna Tours <garifuna@hondutel.hn; http://www.garifuna-tours.com>. 

*  * 

Remember the expression "look before you leap"?  Well, if you spent any time on the south coast beach of Cedeno this past Easter Week you would have been well advised to take heed.  It seems that some three years ago an extremely high tide destroyed many beach front businesses -- including five hotels -- that have yet to be demolished and removed.  Problem is that many of the remains of these structures remain below water at high tide, making it dangerous for Easter week swimmers since hidden below water level are cement blocks, bricks, cement chunks, rebar and other assorted debris.

The mayor of Cedeno beach made an urgent plea to the president just prior to Easter Week asking the central government to assist in the cleanup.  The government pitched in Lps. 186,000 to clean a one kilometer stretch of beach.  Holy Week is the biggest time of the year for Cedeno beach when some 70,000 local tourists, many from Tegucigalpa and Choluteca, descend on the popular south coast beach. 

*  * 

More bad news for the Honduran economy.  Coffee prices are currently at their lowest level in years, which is very bad news for the Honduran economy.  The current price is $56 per quintal which is the equivalent of 46 kilos.  Compared to last year, Honduras stands to lose some $160 million.  Projections are that Honduras will export 2.5 million sacks of coffee this year, 1.5 million less than last year.  Coffee is Honduras' number one export, providing direct employment to 100,000 coffee growers and indirectly supporting half a million persons. 

*  * 

According to an article published by La Prensa, the biggest factor limiting the growth of the Honduran tourism sector is the lack of beach tourism infrastructure.  Although Honduras has some 300 km of beach, there are scarcely 0.5 beach hotel rooms per km2.  The article mentions the long awaited Tela Bay Project as a potentially positive development in developing beach infrastructure, especially in terms of hotel rooms.  However, Tela Bay has been on the drawing boards for more than 25 years with little to show in the way of basic required infrastructure.

Also important to consider is the multiplier effect that beach tourism will have on the rest of the tourism sector, given that increased numbers of beach tourists will translate into lower airfares, hotel rates and tour rates.  At this time, there are only a handful of hotels on the North and South Coasts, the vast majority small, family-run operations.  The largest of the North Coast/Caribbean Coast hotels are Telamar with 169 rooms in Tela, Caribbean Sands with 42 rooms in La Ceiba and Christopher Columbus with 70 rooms in Trujillo.  Not one of these hotels is a world class beach property. 

*  * 

Good news for the North Coast for a change.  The government of Spain will provide financing to the tune of a $37 million loan to construct the 67.9 km highway linking Puerto Cortes and the Guatemalan border at Corinto.  Plans were in the works to build the highway but Hurricane Mitch put that on hold.  The highway will link San Pedro Sula, which is Honduras' industrial, manufacturing and commercial center, with Puerto Cortes, which is Honduras' number one port and the most important Caribbean port in Central America.

On the Guatemalan side, the road will link up with the already completed highway to Puerto Barrios and the highway to Guatemala City.  The highway will become a crucial trade link, as well as providing easy access to Honduras' North Coast beaches.

Howard Rosenzweig, a U.S. expatriate living in the village of Copan Ruinas, is the owner of the Casa de Cafe Bed and Breakfast.  He can be contacted at e-mail <casadecafe@mayanet.hn>.

 

 

Monday, April 23, 2001 Online Edition 16

An adventure in discovering Roatan's underwater paradise 

When all the gear was in place, we entered the water and posed for a picture.  Shortly afterwards, I was immersed in a new world, experiencing sights and sounds that are incomparable on land and remain in my heart forever.

By C.F. AGURCIA

West End, Roatan has many diversions for their year-round visitors.  There are the handicraft shops, the varied restaurants, the white-sand beach of Half-Moon Bay, and constant tours to different and beautiful natural sites that are nearby.  As thoroughly as I enjoyed these things, still, something seemed missing.  Every morning, groups of people could be seen heading out early to specific shops and strapping on equipment to go scuba diving.  I would see them part every morning and return in the afternoons with wide grins on their faces and amazing tales to tell.

Halfway through my week on this paradise Caribbean island, I decided that I was not going to miss out on what these people spoke of.  I was going to go underwater, and so I went and rented a snorkel, a mask and some fins to go snorkeling.  What little I saw of the underwater world from its topmost border left me feeling teased.

I wanted to go down and stay there.  Hence, as I walked down the West End strip early one morning, my eyes looking toward the ocean, I came across the Sueno del Mar Dive Shop out on a pier.  My feet seemed to make up my mind as they trod down the wooden planks and made their way to the counter.  After a few words with Sueno's proprietor, Ray, I was led to the back to meet up with my instructor; and that was how my diving experience began.

 

NOT THAT EASY

Kenny Bain is a diving instructor from Scotland.  He is short, with wild, curly blonde hair and a sense of humor to match.  Kenny introduced me to the underwater world.  After watching the instructional videos (there was a small incident there), he slowly explained every aspect of the new world I was about to enter.  Diving is not as easy as it looks.  There are many risks and dangers and not a lot of room to learn by trial and error.  Kenny explained all of these hazards and then taught me what to do in order to avoid them, and what actions to take in case they did occur.

After a few hours of instruction, I was ready to hit the water.  Well, not so ready.  First I had to put the equipment on.  Scuba gear, though perfect for the water, is heavy and ridiculously awkward on land.  The wet suit comes on first, followed by a weight belt (I had to put on an extra 12 pounds).  The buoyancy control device (BCD) came on next; the air tank with hoses and valves is attached to the BCD vest, so putting it on made my back tilt backward and I was left facing the sky while I struggled to stand straight.  The face mask came into place and, finally, these big blue floppy fins that only allowed me to shuffle backward and move at a turtle's pace.

Again, I was ready to hit the water and no interruptions showed up.  Entering the Caribbean with all these gizmos felt odd, part of the oddness was the realization that I was going to see the ocean in a way I had never done so before.

 

UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE

The experience was unique, and I'll never forget it as long as I live.  Regulator in my mouth and mask in place, I exhaled slowly, let air out of my BCD and went down.  The crystal clear blue salt water enveloped me as I entered this new realm.  I felt no panic to get out, my breathing was long, slow and controlled, and a sensation of belonging settled in as the feeling of being heavy was lifted away.  Scuba is a sight-oriented activity, divers are supposed to enjoy all of the different views the underwater world provides.  The first pleasure I received from scuba diving was not something I saw, but the weightlessness and freedom I felt dropping from 10 to 20 and finally 30 feet below the surface.

Bang, bang bang!  Kenny's knife hit his air tank as he got my attention and signalled to me that I wasn't supposed to just float there.  The Scot lead the way and I followed.  We both glided through the water, our fins kicking out gently behind us, and moved from the sand patch we had descended onto, toward the coral reef itself.

The sights and sounds of my first dive still resonate in the dreams I'm having a week later.  The underwater realm opened up before me with fish of all sizes and colors.  Unfortunately, I do not know enough yet to be able to name the species I saw, but I can tell you that no land-creature can compare to them.  There were these little fish that were half electric blue and half neon orange.  Another fish munching on the coral was bright green with red, yellow and blue patterns on its fins and tail.  Kenny pointed left and I caught sight of a school of silver-colored fish darting away from us.  The living coral reef rose up around us, not giving the sense of enclosure, but of company.

My diver's log book states that my first dive ever was at a sight called the "Bite," and that I was 30 feet underwater for a period of 47 minutes.  My memory tells me that, for what seemed an eternity, I left the world I'd inhabited for 22 years and entered another one.

I did three more dives during my stay in Roatan, completing the requirements to get my Open Water Diver's certificate.  Each dive was better than the previous one.  Every time I went under, I saw and experienced something new that alluded to so much more still undiscovered.  Kenny was my guide and companion on these dives, sometimes pulling his regulator out of his mouth and smiling at me to tell me I had gotten something right, or that I was doing well.

The over-water part of Roatan was unbelievably fun, providing fun experiences that I truly enjoyed.  Still, it was under the water that Roatan ensnared my heart.  Under the Caribbean water, in the company of coral and a multitude of fish, I fell in love with this paradise and vowed to return to it for the rest of my life.  Thanks, Diving Instructor Kenny Bain, I'll see you under the water again real soon.

 

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COPAN UPDATE
By Howard Rozenzweig

Well, another Easter Week or Semana Santa, as it is known here, has come and gone.  Virtually all of Central America grinds to a halt for a long five-day weekend.  The long weekend is synonymous with vacation time down in these parts as those families that have the economic means leave the cities for a bit of springtime R&R.  The most popular destinations by far are the beaches, which receive the lion's share of Easter vacationers.

However, due to the hordes of people at the beaches, other destinations attract those looking for a more laid-back holiday experience.  Copan Ruinas, for example, received a good crowd of Salvadoran tourists this year, as well as a number of foreign residents in Honduras, most of whom work for development projects and diplomatic missions.

Just across the border from Copan Ruinas in neighboring Guatemala, tourism authorities were predicting big numbers of visitors for the Easter period.  According to the Guatemalan

Institute of Tourism, the colonial city of Antigua, which is home to one of the finest Easter pageants in the Americas, was expecting half a million visitors.  At the Mayan ruins of Tikal, 50,000 visitors were predicted.  Some 25,000 Salvadoran tourists were expected to visit Guatemala during Easter week.  A quick look back to last year reveals healthy tourism numbers as well.  Guatemala received some 800,000 tourists who spent an estimated $700 million.  For 2001, a modest 5 percent increase is predicted.

With numbers like these, it should come as no surprise that I often refer to Guatemala as our "Tourism Powerhouse To The North."  Honduras, by the way, pulled in some $200 million last year, according to Ministry of Tourism figures.  

*  *  *  

Ever wonder how it is that in a country as poor as Honduras there is sufficient consumer spending to support all those

fast food restaurants, newly raised shopping malls, new car dealerships and luxury big city hotels?   Well, part of the

answer may be that the number one source of income for the nation are monies sent back to Honduras by family members living and working abroad, the overwhelming majority in the United States.

According to Honduran government figures, in 2000 some $410 million was sent to Honduras by family members working abroad.  However, other numbers point to the real figure at some $700 million.  According to the Honduran ambassador in Washington, approximately 25 percent of the Honduran population receives a significant part of their income from money sent from abroad.

In addition to remittances sent back during the year, Honduran residents abroad contribute mightily to the Honduran tourism sector  when they return for vacations.  It is interesting as well to note here that in the future remittances sent to Honduras from abroad can only go one way and that is up.  El Salvador, for example, receives a whooping $1.7 billion in funds sent by countrymen living abroad.  So this is definitely a growth industry for the nations of Central America and provides a vital safety valve for countries ill equipped to provide basic social services and sustainable economic development.  

*  *  *  

Utila, the diminutive yet fun-packed island, is getting set to welcome its new airport...cool!  The airstrip will be lengthened to 1,300 meters and a host of other nifty infrastructure improvements will be made.  The project is slated to cost some Lps. 30 million.  Utila currently holds the unofficial title for in-the-know gringo trail travellers as the "Funkiest Dive Destination in the Western Caribbean."  Low rates for dive courses, a bevy of cheap places to lay one's head, a cornucopia of family-owned and operated restaurants, cafes and drinking establishments, friendly down home locals, a quaint laid-back village, as well as quick, cheap access via puddle jumper flights via La Ceiba, have made Utila into a virtual backpacker heaven/haven.

Howard Rosenzweig, a U.S. expatriate living in the village of Copan Ruinas, is the owner of the Casa de Cafe Bed and Breakfast.  He can be contacted at e-mail <casadecafe@mayanet.hn>.

Monday, April 9, 2001 Online Edition 15

COPAN UPDATE
By Howard Rozenzweig

What's New(s) in Copan Ruinas, Part II:  
A new store, Don Monte, is now open for business.  Don Monte offers an eclectic and funky selection of typical items that one would be hard pressed to find elsewhere.  Brightly painted walls and a barrage of colorful, funky gift items adorn the exhibition space.  Part gallery, part boutique, part gift shop, Don Monte is bound to have something that'll catch your eye.  The shop is located in the old high school building right on the Central Park.  Proceeds from sales go toward the work of Copan Pinta and Il Sagni, two local NGOs that work in Copan Ruinas and La Mosquitia, respectively. 

*

Hotel Camino Maya has opened its new "fun complex" just a few blocks from the center of the village.  The newly opened complex offers a pleasant pool, restaurant, bar, showers, playground equipment for the kiddies, a weekend disco, big screen movies and plenty of riverside breeze.  Admission for adults is Lps. 30. 

*

Mark your calendar: July 12-14 Copan Ruinas will host an international conference, "Science, Art and Religion in the Maya World."  The Conference will feature 21 Mayan experts in the areas of anthropology, archaeology, astronomy, paleo‑ecology, literature, art and religion.  For more information, contact (in the US) the Honduran Institute of Tourism at 1‑800-410‑9608 e-mail: <tourisminfo@iht.hn>.  Package trips are being booked by Far Horizons Archaeological and Cultural Trips, 800-552‑4575, email: <journey@farhorizon.com>; web page: <http://www.farhorizons.com>.

*

Copan's first and only bakery has opened its doors to the public.  The shop features the usual variety of Honduran baked goods.  It is located just a block from the Police Station.

*

A new exhibition of recently unearthed archaeological finds are featured in the village museum.  The exhibit has a fascinating array of artifacts, included a pair of elegantly incised jade pectorals.  Highly recommended.

*

New restaurant in town.  The newly opened Rancho de Tono can't be mistaken for anything else -- the restaurant is housed under a humongous open air thatched roof structure ... plenty of cooling breeze here.  The restaurant's specialty is fish, specifically tilapia.  The owner of the restaurant has a fish farm nearby, thus fresh fish here is a given.  Highly recommended by this writer is the fried fish plate that features a huge specimen of whole, wonderfully fried and crispy fish served up with salad, fried plantains, a side order of steamed veggies and dessert.  The entire meal will set you back a scant $4 or so.  El Rancho is located a block down from Tunkul.

*

Copan's banks have now entered the information age.  It has been some months now (and already we take it for granted) since Copan's three banks --  Banco de Occidente, BANHCRESER and Banco Atlantida -- installed computerized banking.  Gone are the days of manual, hand powered typewriters cranking out deposits and withdrawals in one's bankbook.  Now, if we could only convince Banco Atlantida (the nation's largest bank) to cash the traveller's checks of tourists (at the present time Atlantida is not cashing traveller's checks, go figure) then that would really be an achievement.

*

The Asociacion Copan is getting set to build a children's museum exhibit on the site of the old partially restored high school across from the park.

*

The Institute of Tourism is slated to start construction shortly on an enclosed air conditioned conference center that will be raised in the open air pavilion of the municipality.  Plans call for the conference room to be ready for the Maya Conference in July.

*

As mentioned in a previous column, cellular service of sorts has reached Copan.  Already local Copan cowboys in 4X4 Toyota pick-up trucks can be seen sporting cellular phones on their belts where previously they had tucked their pistols.  Talk about progress in the digital age!  Only problem is that the cellular signal does not reach 99.99 percent of the village.  So much for progress.

Howard Rosenzweig, a U.S. expatriate living in the village of Copan Ruinas, is the owner of the Casa de Cafe Bed and Breakfast.  He can be contacted at e-mail <casadecafe@mayanet.hn>.


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Monday, April 2, 2001 Online Edition 14

COPAN UPDATE
By Howard Rozenzweig

The cruise ships are comin' ...the cruise ships are comin'...  'Tis the season of the cruise ships.  Roatan is the primary Honduran port of call but ships also dock at Puerto Cortes.  Just two weeks ago The Celebration, a Carnival Line ship, pulled into Puerto Cortes packing 1,500 passengers.  After a brief day tour of some mainland sights, the 732-ft ship steamed off bound for Roatan. 

*  * 

Ever seen a border policeman in Honduras?  Well, fear not, you soon will.  Coming to a border crossing near you, the National Police have announced the creation of a Honduran Border Police.  Thirty officers and 13 police are currently in the midst of a 15-week training course.  Among duties the new police unit will take on are smuggling, drug trafficking and illegal immigration.  According to press reports, the unit should be operational by July. 

*  * 

Having problems surfing the Honduran web lately?  Thank your lucky stars you don't live in Cuba.  As we all know, the web is the place to check up on the latest news, plan that upcoming 2-week vacation, chat with friends and family and just plain surf around.  However, in Cuba it's another story as Cuba holds the dubious and dastardly distinction of being the only country in Latin America that exercises total control over Internet use by it's citizens. According to the group Reporters Without Borders, Cubans who want to access Internet must present a "valid reason" to the Ministry of Information and Communications and users must sign a contract that specifies certain restrictions regarding use of the net.  All computers and fax machines must be registered with the government and all Internet traffic is centralized in just one machine, thus giving the government the capacity to censure and filter incoming and outgoing messages. 

*  * 

How many guards does it take to keep a dangerous felon in jail?  Well, that depends on which Chinese restaurant he eats at.  Confused?  Allow me to explain.  Recently, a North American who was convicted of trafficking in minors at his San Pedro Sula nightclub, waltzed out of his prison cell at the Central Penitentiary in Tegucigalpa in the company of guards, destination a nearby Chinese restaurant.  Only problem with this scenario was that after the first course, the felon in question sort of just "wandered away," never to be seen or heard from again.

As a result, the Minister of Security issued a new directive that prisoners may only leave prison with the express written order from the minister himself and only for emergency health reasons.  In addition, all prisoners who leave prison must now wear a prison uniform and be shackled hand and foot.  Other measures taken by the minister include limiting the number of visitors to prisons and the creation of secure visitor areas so that prisoners and visitors are not in direct physical contact, as well as the confiscation of cellular phones used by prisoners.

*  *  *

Guanaja -- future home away from home for the rich and famous? Well, maybe.  According to press reports, the Kempinski hotel chain will undertake construction of a new luxury resort on the island of Guanaja.  The resort, to be called the Iguana Bay Kempinski Resort, is slated to cost $12 million with construction getting underway in June.  One of the principal partners of the project is actor Christopher Lambert, best known for his cinematic interpretation of Tarzan.

Now, I may be wrong here but haven't we heard this story someplace before?  According to my calculations, this is at least the third major news conference that has been held in as many years announcing the project.  Each time a contingent of European investors, chefs, hotel executives, as well as Chris Lambert himself jet into town to launch the resort, and promptly the project fades into oblivion.  Will this be the last project launch?  Will the long awaited Jet Set Iguana Bay Resort be built?  all I can say is stay tuned.

Howard Rosenzweig, a U.S. expatriate living in the village of Copan Ruinas, is the owner of the Casa de Cafe Bed and Breakfast.  He can be contacted at e-mail <casadecafe@mayanet.hn>.


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Cruise ship biz could be lost if govt doesn't act 

By SANDRA SAMPAYO 

ROATAN, Bay Islands -- Roatan's economy is set to lose in excess of $260,000 per week, and hundreds of jobs will be in jeopardy, if port authorities do not show an immediate and serious commitment to begin work on upgrading the cruise ship dock.

The deadline was set by American cruise company, Norwegian, which accounts for 85 percent of the island's cruise business.  The dock needs to be expanded to accommodate bigger ships, such as the company's flagship, the Norwegian Sun, an 80,000-ton vessel that holds in excess of 2,000 passengers.  If the dock is not reinforced and expanded by October, the cruise company will take its much-wanted business elsewhere.

It seems, however, that government red tape is responsible for the delay, and it may be responsible for the demise of cruise ship tourism to the island.  According to the Ministry of Tourism, government regulations require that any contracting made by government has to follow a public bid procedure, all which takes a very long time.  The only way this lengthy procedure can be overruled is by having the board of directors of the national port authority declare an emergency situation, the only person that can approve such action is President Flores.  Approval from the president will allow the port authorities to immediately hire the contractors that usually work for them.

According to a feasibility study conducted by the Central Bank and the Ministry of Tourism, Roatan makes approximately $130,000 from the Norwegian line per visit.  The liner currently visits twice per week during the cruise ship season (December to May), and once per week during the low season (June to November).  According to the same study, the cost of upgrading the dock will be in the region of $1.1 million; a small amount to invest if one calculates the potential return, or the potential loss.

Competition between cruise line ports in the Caribbean is on the increase, and according to Julio Galindo -- president of Anthony's Key Resort and one of the key tourism figures on Roatan -- the answer to this is simple: cruise ships bring instant cash to an economy.  "This is why so many ports are putting so much work into upgrading their facilities and securing long-term contracts with the cruise lines.  They are realizing that these cruise ships mean big business for the local economy."

The severity of the competition is perhaps most evident in Panama, where the country signed a five-year contact to pay the cruise lines between $2.50 and $12 per passenger.  The cruise lines pay Roatan $3 per passenger, and according to a few of the liners, Roatan is an ideal cruise destination.  "I believe it would be extremely foolish to throw this much-needed business away," added Galindo.

According to Galindo, the cruise line industry is moving from smaller liners to the much bigger ships, which are between 80,000 and 140,000- tons.  "Bigger ships mean better deals for passengers, and this is how the cruise lines make money.  If we cannot accommodate the bigger ships, the island is going to be in trouble."

What Roatan needs to do now is demonstrate that it wants to retain the business, and that it is committed to offering the cruise lines the same sort of professional service they receive elsewhere.  This does not only pertain to the dock, but to the on-shore product being offered to passengers.

According to Michele Paige, president of the Florida-Caribbean Cruise Association, destinations need to be guided by what tourist's want, not by what is available.  "Just being sun and sand is not going to be enough -- all the islands are sun and sand.  They (the islands) need to look inwardly, to their culture and past, their music and dance."

Although Roatan has much to offer the cruise industry, it needs to realize that the cruise industry has more to offer the island. 

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