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Monday, March 26, 2001 Online Edition 13 |
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In search of the lost silver mines near La Leona
This
entrance to a colonial-era Spanish mine is located in the La Leona
district of Tegucigalpa. (Photo
by Eric Timar.) By
ERIC TIMAR Special
to Honduras This Week Several
months ago I hatched a
plan for an article written for visitors
to
Tegucigalpa, an article about old Spanish mines.
I would find out where I could see entrances to such mines, write
about the early history of mining, throw in some mining trivia, and
bang, I would have an interesting piece for Honduras This Week.
I would sit back, watch tourists pour in, and wait for Mayor
Castellanos to present me with keys to the city in gratitude for the
publicity. I
knew that the Spaniards had established mines in the 16th and 17th
centuries near present-day Parque La Leona, so one morning I wandered up
there with a notebook and camera. I
picked two distinguished-looking men on a park bench and asked them if
there were any old mines nearby. They
rubbed their chins and frowned and said a certain hole in the ground far
away might be an old mine entrance, but to get there I would need to
negotiate my way through gangs of delinquents and packs of large, biting
dogs. So
I decided to do the historical research first. SPANISH
MINING IN TEGUZ The
historian Linda Newson, in her 1986 book The Cost of Conquest,
writes that Honduras produced mainly gold until silver was discovered in
and around Tegucigalpa in the 1500s.
Tegucigalpa's silver dominated mining in the colonial period from
that time forward. How
was silver extracted from its ore?
The Spaniards used the "patio" method.
The process takes its name from shallow circular pits, 15 yards
across, in which the ore was worked.
Silver ore was ground up with water to make mud, and this mud was
spread 10 inches deep over the patio.
Miners then added salt and mercury and mixed everything by having
mules pull stone blocks over it repeatedly.
This process forced the silver to combine chemically with the
mercury. The mud was rinsed
away, and the silver-mercury compound was heated to force off the
mercury. Miners in
Tegucigalpa imported large amounts of salt from the southern coast and
mercury, from Seville to produce their silver. The
historians cited in this article do not speculate as to whether this
heavy use of mercury drove either the miners or the mules insane.
Mercury residues in the city would go a long way toward
explaining present-day driving habits. Some
types of silver ore could be processed just with heat, without using
mercury. Newson writes that miners were happy to uncover these veins
because the Spanish authorities expected to collect taxes when they
shipped mercury from Seville. When
miners could produce silver without mercury they could underreport their
income and bilk the crown. WORKER
SHORTAGE Newson
writes that there were not enough Spaniards in the area to work the
mines very well, and those that were here might not have been exactly
wedded to hard manual labor, so they used native Hondurans.
How abusive were the Spaniards in treating their local
"help"? According to the Honduran historian José Reina Valenzuela in
his 1981 book, Tegucigalpa: Sintesis Historica, the rulers of
Spain in the late 1500s and 1600s were relatively -- and I stress the
term 'relatively,' since this was a long, long time before Rigoberta
Menchu won her Nobel Prize, or Ben Nighthorse Campbell got himself
elected U.S. Senator -- the rulers of Spain were relatively enlightened
in their treatment of Native Americans.
For example, it was 'expressly forbidden by royal order' for
indigenous Hondurans to work inside the mine tunnels; they could only be
employed out in the open processing the ore and doing other ore chores.
Reina Valenzuela writes that "more than a few" mine
owners ignored the laws and mistreated their workers; the native
Hondurans tended to run away from the mines. When
too many native Hondurans fled, or were killed off by diseases or
warfare, the mine owners looked for African slaves to replace them.
Reina Valenzuela writes that a shipload of African slaves arrived
in Trujillo in 1618, and two more in 1620, at the request of miners in
Tegucigalpa. Anyone living
in Tegucigalpa might have an obvious question, regarding all these
Africans -- where are their descendants?
The city has no 400-year-old community of blacks, as does, say,
the southern United States. Reina
Valenzuela guesses that the 17th-Century Africans either ran away from
the mines or died out without descendants.
And the local mining industry, it turns out, never occupied very
many slaves. How
big was the Spanish mining operation in Tegucigalpa in the 16th and 17th
centuries? Were thousands
of indigenous Hondurans and Africans toiling in the hills?
Numbers for Tegucigalpa alone are not available -- the writers
back then very inconsiderately did not isolate the city in their
statistics, nor did they divine that Tegucigalpa and not Santa Lucia,
say, would develop into the city where I would write this report -- but
there are numbers about the region as a whole.
Newson writes that in 1590 Tegucigalpa and Ojojona had 11 mines
between them employing a total of just 24 slaves and 24 indigenous
workers. Sixty years later
Santa Lucia and a nearby site supported seven mine owners who employed
182 slaves and 80 indigenous workers. BACK
TO LA LEONA By
now I was ready to battle delinquents and dogs, if necessary, to see old
mine entrances and imagine myself in the mercury-ridden shoes of a
Spanish miner. I spoke with
another Honduran historian, Dr. Mario Felipe Martinez Castillo, who told
me that entrances did indeed exist near La Leona -- and he gave me a
name: a certain family had mine shafts visible on their property. Two
things were obvious now. This
article would probably not work very well as a guide for visitors, since
they would have to talk their way onto private property in order to
replicate my tour. Second, no one was going to mistake me for Indiana Jones --
instead of hacking my way through bush to see mine entrances, I was
going door to door in a well-to-do neighborhood to try to explain my
quest to suspicious gardeners. At
the household Dr. Martinez mentioned, a guard shooed me away politely,
but he did tell me that I could see mine entrances on the property of
another family nearby. At
this house I was let in, and I photographed two entrances -- one
outdoors and one behind the wall of a building. The
mine outdoors was a blocked-over entrance, about five feet high, beneath
an archway built into the side of a slope.
It may have run directly under Parque La Leona, but there was no
way to tell. To
see the second old mine shaft, I was sent down a stairway to a two-story
stone building. Inside,
five teenage boys worked at sewing machines making Olimpia and Motagua
T-shirts. When I told them
my mission, they looked at me oddly but sent for their manager who, sure
enough, opened a back door in the main room and showed me two tunnels.
One passage, about three feet wide by six feet high, ran about 20
feet and disappeared around a bend.
The other, perhaps four feet high by six feet wide, likewise ran
into the hill a few yards and turned. I
imagined the Spaniards and Hondurans and Africans who had worked in
these mines. They would have had a beautiful view of the valley that would
develop into today's Tegucigalpa -- green hills untouched by urban
blight with the Choluteca river wandering around below.
I imagined them building the arches at the entrances and hoping
the hillside did not fall in, hoping the mines did not flood -- Linda
Newson writes that mines seldom extended more than 325 feet because they
filled with water and were too difficult to clear out. POOR
MINE OWNERS Newson
mentions that, surprisingly, local mine owners in the colonial era were
not known for their wealth; they were generally "poor and
indebted." Silver
mining required amounts of money far beyond the means of most Spanish
immigrants. Many of them
were perpetually in debt to moneylenders and were unable to exploit
their mines properly because the native Hondurans could not work inside
them, they ran away if they were forced to, African slaves were too
expensive, and it was too difficult to dig mines deep. So
how does the story end? What
role did the mines of Tegucigalpa play in history?
The authors of the Encyclopedia Britannica -- who, bless them,
have placed that entire document online -- wrap up their entry on
Spanish mining thus: "Very
little of this American treasure seems to have been invested in economic
production. Most of it was
used for display by the court and ruling circles, to pay for Spanish
imports, for the Spanish armies abroad, and to satisfy the government's
foreign creditors. Thus Spain, with all the treasure of the New World at its
command, remained a poor country." |
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CULTURAL EVENTS
ART
AUCTION -- MARCH 29 -- The
Camino Real Intercontinental in Tegucigalpa will host an auction
featuring the works of Honduran, Salvadoran, Cuban and Colombian
painters. It is sponsored by the Embassy of El Salvador and the
Botticelli Art Gallery. JAPANESE
VISUAL ART -- THROUGH MARCH 30 -- The
Ministry of Culture and the Embassy of Japan are hosting an exhibit of
Japanese visual art at the Cultural Room of Plaza Bancatlan in
Tegucigalpa. Computer photographs, cartoons,
illustrations and other forms of modern art are on display. It
is open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. HONDURAN
IMAGES -- THROUGH MARCH 30 -- The
Honduran Institute of Interamerican Culture (IHCI) on Calle Real, in
Comayaguela, is presenting an exhibit of paintings by Copan artist
Moises Becerra. More information at 222-0703. WOMEN
PHOTO AND CARTOON EXHIBIT -- THROUGH MARCH 30 -- The
Mujeres en las Artes organization is holding a photography and
cartoon exhibit on women's issues, titled Imagenes de la
Cotidianidad: Escenarios de lo Femenino, at the National Art
Gallery in Tegucigalpa. Call 221-0679 for information. LA
FRAGUA THEATER -- MARCH 28,29,30,31 -- Teatro
La Fragua of El Progreso, Yoro, will present a new version of the
Passion, titled Jesus' Assassination at 7:15 p.m. on March 24
at their own facilities. From March 28 to 31, the play will be
presented at the San Pedro Sula Anthropology Museum at the same hour.
Admission is Lps. 25. More information at 647-0974. CENTRAL
AMERICAN SCENIC ART FESTIVAL -- THROUGH MARCH -- The
Ministry of Culture, the Spanish Agency of International Cooperation
and the Bambu Theater Group are organizing the 11th Central
American Scenic Art Festival Bambu 2001. The inauguration will take place at 7 p.m. at the Manuel
Bonilla National Theater in Tegucigalpa, with the presentation of the
monologue, titled El Diario de un Loco (A mad man's diary),
starring Guatemalan actor Herbert Meneses. BOOK
PRESENTATION -- APRIL 5 -- The
Honduran Institute of Hispanic Culture will be host to the
presentation of the book, Visiones del sector cultural en
Centroamerica, sponsored by the Spanish International Cooperation
Agency. The event will take place at 7 p.m. SYMPHONIC
ORCHESTRA -- MARCH 30 -- The
Hotel Princess in Tegucigalpa will be host to an Unforgettable
Viennese Dinner, along with the National Symphonic Orchestra of
Honduras. Admission is Lps. 500. More information at
220-4500. YAMARANGUILA
FAIR -- MARCH 31-APRIL 1 --
The municipality of Yamaranguila, Intibuca (15 minutes from La
Esperanza, about 3 hours from Tegucigalpa) invites the public to the
2nd Fair for Food Security. In the ambiance of a cool climate
and forests you will find Lenca culture, presentation and the sale of
local products, a guide tour and walks. THEATER
FOR CHILDREN -- Teatro
Renacimiento at Plaza Millenium in Comayaguela is host to a theater
workshop for children, Tuesdays and Thursdays from 4 to 6 p.m., and
Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 12 noon. More information at 225-5517. FINE
ARTS COURSES -- The
Construction, Architecture and Design Center (CEDAC) in Tegucigalpa
offers fine arts courses for children and teenagers. More
information at 232-4195, 232-8834. PAINTING
AND PUPPETEERING WORKSHOP -- D'Barro
is hosting a puppeteering, painting and modeling workshop for girls
between 7 and 12. For information, call 239-6905. ART
WORKSHOPS FOR CHILDREN -- THROUGH MAY 31 -- The
Mujeres en las Artes cultural association is offering a painting
workshop for children aged 7 to 10, a traditional games workshop for
children aged 8 to 11 and a ceramic workshop for children aged 6 to
12. ART
WORKSHOP FOR ADULTS -- THROUGH MAY 31 -- The
Mujeres en las Artes cultural association is offering ceramic
workshops Fridays and Saturdays. A mosaic workshop is given
Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, and a graphic design course is
given on Saturdays. More information at 221-0679. SCHOLARSHIPS
-- The
Honduran Institute of Interamerican Culture (IHCI) is promoting a
series of scholarships for Honduran professionals granted by the
Fullbright, Laspau and Hubert H. Humphrey programs. More
information at 222-0703. ITALIAN
FOOD FESTIVAL -- THROUGH MARCH 27 -- The
Hotel Princess in Tegucigalpa is holding an Italian gastronomical
festival at the Garden Court Restaurant from 11:30 to 3 p.m.
Seven chefs are waiting for you to taste their most exquisite dishes.
More information at 220-4500. Cost is Lps. 250 per person plus
tax. CULTURAL
ENCOUNTER -- APRIL 7,8 -- The
community of Copan Ruinas, in the western region of Honduras, will
host the First Great Artistic-Cultural Encounter 2001, with the
participation of artists, musicians, actors, poets, writers, film
makers, dancers and other culturally active people. The program
will be developed at the Hacienda San Lucas. For more
information, call Vicente Murphy at 236-9362, or write to Carin Steen
at copanpinta@yahoo.com
CLUBS FAMILIES
ANONYMOUS
-- Meetings are held Tuesdays at the Union Church in
Tegucigalpa at 7:30 p.m. More information at 239-9779. AL-ANON
FAMILY GROUPS --
For relatives and friends of problem drinkers. Groups meet
Saturdays and Sundays in Tegucigalpa. More information at
239-2698 (Spanish) and 226-6576 (English). NARCOTICS
ANONYMOUS --
Meetings are held in Spanish every Monday, Wednesday and Friday in
Tegucigalpa. More information at 991-9417 or 232-8989. ENGLISH
SPEAKING WOMEN'S CLUB --
ESWC meets every month on the second Thursday at the Hotel Honduras
Maya in Tegucigalpa at 2:30 p.m. More information with Adrienne
Cosenza at 211-8842. HONDURAN-FRENCH
ASSOCIATION --
The French Alliance in Tegucigalpa invites the public to join the
Honduran-French Association. More information at 239-6164.
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