Honduras has been visited by 152,320 tourists so far in 2003, a 22.4 percent increase from 2002.

The cruise ship industry is booming in Honduras. The V.S.Horizon, a 47,000 ton, 628 ft long luxury cruise ship from The Bahamas, docked in Coxen Hole for the first time a few days ago, bringing more than 1200 tourists into the island of Roatan.

Vice President of product development at Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines (RCCL), Michael Bonan, said this week in Tegucigalpa that RCCL is considering investing on the development of Cruise Docks in the islands and along the Caribbean coasts of Honduras.

According to the Honduran Tourism Institute, a total of 152,320 tourists have visited in the country so far this year, a 22.4 percent increase from last year, when 124,454 came to Honduras.

According to Honduras This Week´s Roatan correspondent Don Pearly, it was raining when the V.S. Horizon arrived in Roatan. “Undeterred by bad weather, guests ran through the heavy rain and back to re board the ship , many talking about the fine wood carvings and other local crafts they found ashore. Several commented on the reasonable prices they found in shops along the Front Street area,” he wrote.

The V.S. Horizon is one of many cruise lines to venture to Honduran shores in recent years, particularly to Roatan’s.

Both the central government and local Bay Island authorities sent officials to greet the ship for the first time, suggesting they are interested in promoting investment in this sector.

When the V.S. Horizon arrived, its captain Skyloggins was offered the keys to the Islands by Jack Clinton Everett, governor of the Bay Islands. Honorable Jerry Hynds, Mayor of Roatan and Mr. Roberto Bogran were also present, representing President Maduro.

For Royal Caribbean to consider settling operations in Honduras would mean unprecedented investments in Honduran docks.

Royal Caribbean is considered one of the leading cruise enterprises in the global market. Together with Carnival Cruises, they manage 90 percent of the cruise ships that travel across the Caribbean sea.

The Honduran Institute of Tourism took the opportunity of Ronan’s visit to give a presentation to the Bay Islands’ private sector. The presentation covered the importance of organizing cruise committee in groups, with representation for both private enterprise and the public sector.

The idea is for these cruise committees to work to establish the Bay Islands as a strong cruise ship destination.

The view from La Tigra National Park reveals the stunning San Juancito valley and beyond

By Nicole Dunas

This is the seventh in a series of articles about weekend getaways from the city

Looking for a weekend getaway from the city that is relatively painless and quick enough to do in a day? La Tigra national park is your lush forest escape.

Only 11km from Tegucigalpa and Honduras’ first recognized national park, La Tigra is a beautiful cloud forest tucked high into the mountains. Featuring six trails, high peaks and moist green vegetation, it’s the perfect place to catch breathtaking views of the valley and find respite from Tegucigalpa’s pollution.

The paths in La Tigra are often shrouded in mist

Depending on the entrance you start at, you can either walk uphill or downhill through the park. From the west entrance at Jutiapa, enjoy an unhurried downhill trek through the canopy on well marked trails. Towards the end hikers pass a lovely waterfall. Small streams along the way make a good spot to wash off grubby hands.

From the east entrance, the same trail can be followed uphill for an invigorating aerobic hike. The cool mountain air makes this a great place to get some exercise without suffering from Central America’s heat. Sturdy hiking boots or tennis shoes are recommended, as is mosquito repellent.

Maps of the park’s trails can be found at the visitor’s center at either park entrance. Volunteers are currently working to translate trail maps and information packets into English. As of now, they are only available in Spanish.

For a small fee, a guide can be hired to lead visitors through the park. Call ahead if you intend to hire a guide. Though one is not necessary, guides are great sources of information regarding the park’s history and abundance of wildlife.

Entrance to the park is Lps 15 for Hondurans and foreign residents, US$ 10 for foreigners.

Visitors can also make a loop from either entrance, or follow an old road cut through the mountain by the New York and Honduras Rosario Mining Company, which used to work in the area.

Highlights to the park include the possibility of seeing ocelots, quetzals, and other birds that are rare and hard to find in Honduras, such as the blue and white mockingbird or the garnet-throated hummingbird. Extraordinary vines, lichen and moss coat many of the trees of La Tigra, making it feel like a jungle fairyland. Drops of water from clouds and consistent rain tend to drip on your face and arms, keeping you cool.

Much of La Tigra is now a secondary growth forest, as the Rosario Mining Company denuded the San Juancito side of the forest during the turn of the century to make wood for housing. However, 50 years after they left, even the secondary growth forest is a lush delight.

Patches of the 238 sq km park are still primary forest, though most of this region is strictly cut off to visitors. Much of the park’s larger wildlife like pumas, mountain lions, armadillos, and white-tailed deer live in the primary forest.

It is possible to stay overnight at the east entrance in Rosario for $6-10 dollars. Accommodation is simple; it’s best to bring your own bedding.

The Rosario entrance also has a cafeteria, however they only cook for visitors when they know they are coming so call ahead if you intend to eat or stay for the night.

Visitors can also eat at a green house 300 meters below the park entrance until 6:00 p.m. Locals in this house are happy to cook for you. They also sell jams made of unique fruits like guyaba and lime, mango and matasano.

Whichever entrance you begin at, be sure to have a look around Rosario, the ghost mining town which was home to the New York and Honduras Mining Company for 74 years. Decrepit residential and administrative buildings line the mountain wall, just barely seeming to cling to the mountainside. Some of the houses are still livable, and do house locals and volunteers.

The Rosario mining company, the richest of its time, is a vein of history that still haunts many in the area. If you ask locals or guides working at La Tigra, they will share stories about the ruthless practices of this company, bordering from sad to horrific.

As you walk along the trails it is possible to see the openings of some of the old mines where thousands of workers were hired and in some cases, forced to spend long days fishing out silver and gold, with little return.

Over the course of its existence in Rosario, the mine produced over 100 million dollars worth of gold, silver, copper and zinc. By 1954, when the best veins of ore had been mined, the company shut down its operations and left the area.

There is still a graveyard just past the minuet of buildings that offers an interesting taste of the history that pervaded this part of Honduras. All the graves are inscribed in English.

To get to La Tigra from Tegucigalpa, you can either catch a bus to San Juancito, or to Jutiapa. Buses leave for Jutiapa from Av Colon near the hotel Granada once a day. It is best to check early in the morning to find out what time the bus is leaving.

Buses leave for San Juancito just north of the Puente Guanacaste between Colonia Palmira and downtown Tegucigalpa. Buses to San Juancito will drop you off on the road, a 15 minute walk from San Juancito.

From San Juancito, you can attempt the 1.5 hour walk up the steep road to La Tigra, hitch a ride with a passing four wheel drive, or get a ride from a German local who lives nearby and offers rides up the mountain for Lps. 150. Ask at the blue pulperia stand in the center of town.

The Rosario visitor’s center is more well-equipped and larger than the Jutiapa visitor’s center, though both can offer some information on the park.

Whichever way you get there, La Tigra’s refreshing air, lovely views, and flourishing canopy make it well worth the effort.

TOURISM PROMOTION

By SANDRA SAMPAYO

Pirates and Pilgrims go together. Just ask the folks at Mango Creek Lodge in Roatan.

While pilgrims celebrated their bountiful harvest in America during the 1600s, pirates buried theirs in Port Royal. Both the Pilgrims and Pirates will be celebrated at Mango Creek on Thanksgiving Day, on Thursday, Nov. 27.

The famous Port Royal offers spectacular views of the horizon.

Nestled on the shores of Port Royal, Mango Creek, a fly fishing resort, is serving up a Thanksgiving feast melded with entertainment and a pirate tour of an area rich in history, nature and buried treasure. Some say up to 5,000 pirates sheltered in the Bay Islands, including Morgan, Blackbeard, Coxen, Morris, Van Horn, and myriad others.

A pirate will collect diners by boat in Oak Ridge, where they can leave their cars in a secured lot. Then it’s off to Port Royal for a historical boat tour that includes stories of pirates and buccaneers. You’ll see first hand where they mounted their cannons and protected the harbor.

A delicious traditional all-you-can-eat feast (roast turkey, dressing, mashed potatoes, green beans, cranberry sauce and dessert) follows. There’s something for everyone, from free rum punch to entertaining music.

With three dinner sittings, you can reserve a table to suit your schedule. The brunch pickup is at BJ’s Backyard at 10 a.m. The lunch sitting pickup is at noon, while the dinner pickup is at 6 p.m.

Cost for brunch or lunch is $20 and dinner (which includes a glass of wine and dining entertainment) is $25. The price also includes the pirate tour, rum punch and music. Children under 12 pay half price.

You’ll also have time to enjoy Mango Creek’s 22 scenic acres of tropical gardens and foliage before boating back to Oak Ridge.

For more information and reservations, please call Mango Creek at 435-2576 or email info@bayislandsmarketing.com.

Santa Lucia still retains much of its colonial flair

By LISA McKIDDIE and JENNIFER OLADIPO

This is the fifth in a series of articles about weekend getaways from the city.

Valle de Angeles and Santa Lucia are small towns less than an hour’s drive from Tegucigalpa. Yet they couldn’t feel further from the hub of Honduras’ capital city.

Buses provide easy, cheap access for all and depart frequently. For Valle de Angeles, follow Av. La Paz past the U.S Embassy, and take a right at the Esso station. The bus station is half a block past it. For Santa Lucia, catch the bus from San Pablo market.

Any visitor will easily find their way around Valle de Angeles, a historical Spanish mining town built around an atmospheric, leafy central square. The town’s architecture is colonial as most of it has been restored to its original 16th century appearance.

The sleepy town consists mainly of narrow streets lined with artesania gift shops, restaurants and residences. Take all this in with a gentle stroll along the cobbled streets. Watch out for motorbikes, which zip past the unsuspecting tourist as smoothly as the horses trot by.

For those looking for gifts or souvenirs, Valle de Angeles offers more choice than most places in Honduras. Among other things, Lenca pottery, traditional clothes and jewelry, stone and wood carvings, paintings, machetes, furniture, leatherwork and dolls are abundant in all shapes and sizes.

Shops also sell goods imported from other parts of Central and South America, including Guatemala, Nicaragua, Peru and Columbia.

From tackiness to authenticity, from the bright colors of Guatemala to the blacks and dull whites of the Lencas, from tourist t-shirts to traditional Mayan scarves, skirts and shirts, Valle de Angeles’ shops cater to the diverse tastes of most visitors.

Some shops accept credit cards, but there is no ATM in Valle de Angeles, so anyone intending to go on a shopping spree is advised to take plenty of cash.

The hungry or thirsty shopper can choose from as many restaurants and cafes as there are shops. The central square is a particularly pleasant spot to enjoy a snack or a drink, but there are plenty of other options around the town.

Those on a tight budget may want to try the Lps. 9.00 pupusas sold in a small restaurant half a block beyond the central square’s Church, along the road to the left. A pupusa is a traditional Honduran/El Salvadoran fare; a fried tortilla filled with cheese or pork or both, sometimes served with pickled cabbage, carrots or onions. One is a snack; two are filling enough for a meal.

For those able to spend a few more Lemps, El Anafre and La Casa de Las Abuelas, are good places to enjoy a hearty meal whilst relaxing outside on the terrace or keeping cozy inside. The former is located on the main square, the latter up the street to the left of the main square’s Church.

El Anafre lives up to its name, offering a delicious anafre as an apertif. Also typically Honduran, this consists of melted cheese and refried beans, served with fried tortilla chips in a pot positioned over a flame.

Passed down from mother to daughter over four generations, La Casa de Las Abuelas consists of an old building made up with a series of small, connecting rooms. Guests are encouraged to make themselves at home in one of these rooms, whilst rooting through the bookshelves or playing the owners CDs.

Another place to make yourself at home is at Valle de Angeles’ new movie theatre, located at a private residence three doors up from the pupusa restaurant. Here, a mother-daughter run enterprise shows DVDs Saturdays at 7.00 p.m. for the very reasonable price of Lps. 7.00. In a corner of the room is a small kitchen, which caters to the whims of movie goers.

Those who wish to avoid the city smog overnight can choose from two hotels. Hotel Villas del Valle and Posada del Angel. Posada del Angel offers a swimming pool and Hotel Villas del Valle offers private cabañas. The latter offers cheaper rooms for budget travelers - a clean room with two beds and a shared bathroom will cost about Lps. 220.00 per night.

For the next day, a short, cheap bus ride to Santa Lucia is recommended. The bus takes passengers to the town entrance, and from there it is a 30-minute walk into town.

Make sure to wear shoes fit for cobblestones and dirt roads as most of the day will be spent walking up and down the unavoidable steep hills, although the views are worth it.

Beforehand, power up with a cup of café con leche at the local comedor. Sitting at a table there feels like stopping for a visit with a friend as the smell of mondongo soup drifts up from the large bubbling pot. Dishware is on display in china cabinets as in any home, along with trophies won by local soccer teams.

After that, all that’s left to do is stroll and explore.

There are a few small shops, but most of them sell knick-knacks without the artistic value of what can be found in Valle de Angeles. Wood crafts and large decorative pieces can be found if you look closely.

Residents of Santa Lucia love to show off their horticultural skills. Around every turn there are gardens and porches with unique, colorful flowers. The plants tend to spill over the edges of stone walls, allowing for closer inspection.

The neighborhoods are pleasant, and unlike the city, the houses are easy to see. People are friendly and children will often go out of their way to say hello. It is not very rare to see children and young adults-male and female-playing soccer in the park.

Wandering a little way in any direction will usually lead to a dirt road. One just beyond the church offers a fairly easy uphill hike with expansive views of the city and surrounding hills. The walk back down reveals little homes nestled in lush green hillsides.

Continuing on a downhill route past the colonial church one finds the new local library. Most of the reading material is geared toward children, but upstairs there is a small exhibit of the work of local artist Guillermo Anderson.

Further down the road in front of the library there is a small cemetery. People who have visited this past week have probably seen the place at its most colorful. It is filled with flowers left by families from Day of the Dead celebrations the previous weekend.

After the cemetery, the road to the right leads to a small spot where a cool breeze blows continually. It whispers through the pine trees that provide shade while letting enough light through for the day to remain bright. Several large rocks provide comfortable seats for reading, listening to music through headphones, or staring at small hills in the distance.

In the center of town a few places provide a good meal before catching the last bus to Tegucigalpa. For a light meal, the Peruvian ceviche at Jambalaya is refreshing and delicious. Eat upstairs on the patio, which has a great view of the lagoon.

Those looking for a more typically Honduran meal can head directly across the street to another comedor, where you will be greeted by an array of desserts in display cases at the entrance. It is also conveniently located just a few hundred feet away from the bus stop. Buses fill quickly and to capacity, so it’s best to get on early to ensure a seat. Then let someone else find the way home as you head back to town.

The view from Water Cay reveals an expanse of clear azure ocean.

By Nicole Dunas

This is the fourth in a series of articles about weekend getaways from the city.

For a taste of lively variety, don’t miss a trip to Utila. This getaway island is famous for diving amongst rainbows of different fish, living on a fair budget, and sharing good times with a diverse crowd.

Utila is also known for its close proximity to several small cays, mostly uninhabited islands offering pristine white sand beaches surrounded by turquoise water.

Travelers can spend a day at the cays through chartered trips. Organize a trip with a prepared barbecue and volleyball included, or just hire a boat ride with a seafaring local. Look for signs to Water Cay near the center of town.

The cays are home to multiple varieties of fish and coral, so don’t forget to bring snorkel gear. Gunter’s, off Sandy Bay Road is one of the cheaper places to rent gear for the day.

If opting not to pay for food, be sure to bring ample amounts of water. Fruit, which can be bought on Utila from pleasant street sellers carting it in rickety wheelbarrows, is also a good choice.

Suntan lotion and mosquito repellent are a must. Locals recommend a mixture of repellent and baby oil to ward off both malarial mosquitoes and sand flies, who drown in the oil before reaching the surface of the skin.

Locals hired to look after Water Cay-the biggest and most frequented cay-come around once daily to collect Lps. 25 from foreigners and Lps. 20 from Hondurans.

Upon returning to Utila after a hot relaxing day, be sure to catch one of the island’s awe-inspiring sunsets. The bridge at the East end of Main Street is a perfect place to watch the sun sink into the horizon, leaving a pink reflection across the water.

For an appetizing evening meal, head over to The Mango Inn or The Ultra Light, Utila’s Israeli café.

The Mango Inn, up Colo de Mico Road, is known for fabulous, reasonably priced thin crust pizzas and a spirited atmosphere. The Ultra Light, with more casual decor, is great for humus, falafel and chicken dishes to satisfy the meat eater and vegetarian alike.

For a cheaper meal, check out The Island Café just off Main street. There, you can grab a chicken or fish-burger for only Lps. 35.

Night life is a vibrant part of Utila culture. Both Coco Loco and Tranquila Bar, next to each other off the main road are hot spots, featuring lively decks on the black ocean, good music and personable bartenders. For a real treat, order a Cuban Mojito or a Flaming Utila, a drink set on fire just before being poured down your throat.

The Treetanic Bar across from the Mango Inn- a boat shaped tree house-features banana daiquiris and funky folk art decor. The Jade Sea Horse, a restaurant just below the Treetanic, is another find with rusty antique bed-frames lining the walls. Fare at The Sea Horse is more costly than its competitors, but the delicious Barracuda is worth it.

In the morning, head up Colo de Mico Road to Thompson’s Bakery, known for the right price and fresh hot cinnamon rolls, a perfect spot for your a.m. octane. The menu offers ample variety, including freshly squeezed juice and shakes.

If you want to pay more for ambience, Munchies on Main Street is another good bet.

For sunbathing, check out the mini-beach at the West end of town just past Sandy Bay Road. Further on, a couple of wide wooden hotel docks welcome bikini-clad travelers and are a good base for an afternoon of snorkeling.

So far, so good, but we mustn’t leave out Utila’s beaming feature: Diving. With a barrier reef second in size only to Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, Utila’s myriad underwater life is rife with infinite exploration opportunities.

To learn the art, the Bay Islands College of Diving (BICD), Utila Dive Center, and Alton’s are well regarded for safety and thorough instruction, though plenty of other dive shops are worth checking out. BICD is said to have the most competent and professional courses; divers say the slight extra expense is worth it.

All three dive shop fees include accommodation. The certified PADI open water dive course can be completed in 3-4 days, and generally costs around US$160. Utila is the cheapest place in the world to become certified as a diver.

When diving, be sure not to touch the coral. One touch can kill a mass of coral that has taken centuries to grow, and a cut from coral can be fatal. Follow all diving precautions offered by instructors. Unfortunately, diving deaths occur each year, so safety is important.

Another rarely traversed path in Utila is to the freshwater underground caves on the Eastern shore, just past the new airport. Currently, the Iguana Station takes travelers to see the caves, though officials are considering closing off access due to trash left around the area.

The caves offer a surreal underground world of white stalactites and stalagmites, plus a cold pool reaching 10-12 feet deep with underwater tunnels jutting off in either direction.

Bring repellent, a swimsuit, underwater flashlight and candles to light up the otherwise dark cave walls. Do not attempt this adventure without a local to show you the ropes.

Even without seeing the freshwater caves, a bike ride up Colo de Mico Road is a delight. With an expanse of green vegetation as far as the eye can see, it’s not a trip to be missed. Bikes can be rented at a number of shops along the main road.

If Utila is well known for diving, it’s equally famous for low cost housing for travelers. Hostels such as Cooper’s Inn flank the main road. Up Colo de Mico Road, the Blueberry Hill-a set of wood houses as blue as the name suggests-offers originally decorated budget rooms.

To be further from the hubbub of town, ask about housing at Rose’s supermarket at the corner of Main St. and Mamilane road. For a little luxury, have a word with the folks at the Bayview off Sandy Bay Rd.

To get to Utila from Tegucigalpa or San Pedro Sula, take a bus or fly to La Ceiba. Buses from Tegus range from Lps. 100-280, from San Pedro Sula, Lps 45-150.

From Tegus, allow seven hours, from San Pedro Sula, three. Islena Airlines offers a US$39 one way flight between Tegus and La Ceiba. To get from La Ceiba to Utila, you can either fly with Sosa Airlines or take the ferry, Lps 350 round trip. Both make two trips daily.

Because the boom in island tourism is fairly recent, sea turtles and the large barrier reef are increasingly at risk. The Bay Islands Conservation Association (BICA) was set up to monitor conservation projects on the islands.

Three main projects on Utila are environmental education for children age 6-12, a 75 buoy system set up so sailors can anchor boats without harming coral, and a turtle monitoring project. Volunteers count and tag female turtles, plus keep track of eggs to better understand risks to turtles in the area.

If you’re interested in conserving Utila’s treasures, take a moment of your weekend to visit the BICA office, which also houses the official tourist office on Main street to the right of Colo de Mico Road. Staff are friendly and happy to provide plenty of useful island information.

Kids frolic at the Parrot Tree Lagoon on Family Day

ROATAN - Parrot Tree developer John G. Edwards was presented the Copan National Award for Tourism - 2003 last month, for his 168-acre residential resort community on Roatan’s south shore. Parrot Tree was one of 15 entities considered for the award.

President Ricardo Maduro presented the award, along with the Minister of Tourism, Thierry Pierrefeu Midence, and the President of the National Chamber of Tourism of Honduras (CANATURH), Raul Welchez.

In presenting the award, President Maduro reaffirmed his support for tourism, saying that it comprises a large part of the country’s economic growth.

“We recognize the benefits that projects like Parrot Tree Plantation bring to the country in terms of jobs, investments and fortification of our national identity,” he said. “It’s very important for our economy and sustainable growth.”

With three miles of waterfront, the community is a blend of upscale homes with clear views of the Caribbean. Visitors can dock their boats at a nearby Mediterranean style marina village with two and three bedroom condos.

Though Parrot Tree is a gated community, tourists are welcome. Activities include swimming in the five acre turquoise lagoon and participating in a free Family Day once or twice a month.

“The children had the most incredible time playing on the inflatable toys in the lagoon,” says Roatan restaurant owner Gio Silvestri, a recent Family Day visitor.

“Parrot Tree is a first class project and the best development I’ve seen in Honduras. John Edwards is constantly working to promote the island as a tourism destination.”

Tourism is expected to increase significantly with construction of a 150-room five star hotel near the lagoon. Phase one is scheduled to open in early 2005.

Future expansion includes additional marina ships, biking and hiking trails, a fitness center and five restaurants.

Edwards is no stranger to successful real estate and tourism. Between 1979 and 1992, he developed many of the subdivisions on Ambergris Cay in Belize.

In Roatan, he has established a Century 21 real estate franchise and developed several housing and condominium communities.

He serves on the Board of Directors for Sol Air and the Roatan chapter of CANATURH and is a member of the Caribbean Hotel Association.

“I was thrilled to be nominated and very surprised to win,” Edwards said. “The award is a designation of tourism excellence and brings prestige to the island. But, it’s especially important to me and I’m very appreciative for it.”

Ricardo Martinez, President of Sol Air and former Minister of Tourism, nominated Parrot Tree for the award.

He said Parrot Tree is an excellent example of how foreign investment can perpetually be reinvested into the country, which sustains growth, promotes tourism and provides jobs.

The selection committee also noted Parrot Tree’s architectural excellence. Award winning architects House + House designed Spanish and Mediterranean homes using hand carved architectural stone from Mexico, floor tiles from Spain, handmade brass hardware from Mexico and exotic hardwoods from Honduras.

Edwards plans to display the Parrot Tree Plantation award in the community’s coffee shop. The award is a bronze sculpture replica of a Mayan Eccentric Flint dating back to 600 A.D.

The artifact, found in Copan during an archaeological dig, is believed to represent the natural and supernatural powers Mayan governors possessed.

But it is also an icon of Honduras, representing the rich Mayan history and the tourism industry that followed the ancient discoveries in Copan.