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Lake Yojoa Tips

The impressive Pullapanzak Waterfalls by Lake Yojoa.

BY TONJE ROBERTSEN

The impressive Lake Yojoa rests between lush mountains at an altitude of 2200 ft right in the center of Honduras. One of these mountains is the Cerro Santa Barbara, the second highest peak in Honduras at 8000 ft above sea level.

The lake itself, which is easily reached from both Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula, offers incredible flora and fauna, waterfalls, sports fishing, water sports and unexcavated ruins from the Lenca culture.

The area around the lake is believed to have been populated by Lenca Indians from about a thousand years BC, and archeological excavations started in 1996. The site, called Los Naranjos, is expected to be officially opened to the public in a couple of years, but interested travelers are allowed to visit the site today. Preliminary excavations indicate that at one point, thousands of people were settled along the shores of Lake Yojoa.

The larger hotels surrounding the lake all hold fishing boats, allowing tourists to enjoy sports fishing. After two decades of conservation work by local environmental groups, the population of black bass in the lake is increasing, after having abruptly shrunk in the late 1970's because of over fishing.
The Pullapanzak Waterfalls are also well worth a visit. The magnificent main waterfall give adventurers a chance to swim in a lagoon, situated right where the water masses smash into the river. Be careful: the large rocks are slippery and there's no Mitch Buchannan around. But as long as you're cautious, a dip in the powerful waterfall will seem like time travel; you can practically see Robin Hood hiding in the woods.

In the forests surrounding the waterfall, there are pre-Columbian temples, most likely built by Lencas.

Word of advice: try to experience the waterfalls during the week, they tend to be crowded on weekends. Bring a disposable waterproof camera and beware of the peculiar pastime of certain young heroes: throwing mud from the higher ledges.

To reach the cascades, get the bus from your hotel to Peña Blanca towards El Mochito and hop off in the village of Buenavista. Private means of transportation are recommended as a "30 minute" bus ride can take up to two hours.

The lake is surrounded by two of Honduras' national parks, Santa Barbara on the northern side and Azul Meambar on the southern side. Only Azul Meambar has access to tourists, but offers spectacular cloud forests and tropical rain forests. More than 373 species of birds have been spotted in the region. There are six marked access points to the park from the road between Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula, and tours are arranged form the Hotel Agua Azul.

How to get to Lake Yojoa: get the bus towards San Pedro Sula from Tegucigalpa (or the other way around). Get off at La Guama, where you can catch a Blue Bird bus towards Peña Blanca. Tell the driver what hotel you're going to, and they'll drop you off.

La Tigra's Mining Past
The Hidden History of a Preserve

San Juancito in its days as a mining camp

By HUNTER C. EDEN

SAN JUANCITO-La Tigra National Park, just eleven kilometers from Tegucigalpa, boasts ruins so expansive and ancient in appearance that the casual visitor might think them the products of a Pre-Columbian civilization. Decaying brick walls overgrown with vegetation, massive granite platforms and moss-covered tunnels all contribute to the illusion of a lost city. True enough, these stone-works belong to a vanished culture, but one whose heyday occurred as recently as the last century.

Honduran miners for the American La Rosario Mining Company

The mines of San Juancito, the town closest to La Tigra National Park, revolutionized Central America. Under the auspices of the La Rosario Mining Company, it became the first town in the entire isthmus to receive electric power. Additionally, San Juancito played host to a movie theater, a comfortable hotel for the company's American executives, and other such amenities years before other towns in Honduras or the rest of the nations in the region.

Industrialized mining began in Honduras in the late 19th century. While the existence of rich veins of silver, gold, and bronze was known in La Tigra, they were not truly capitalized upon until the Churrotea-Flores family, upper-class Hondurans of criollo descent, opened their silver mines in 1901. Operating without permit, their claim was taken just eight years later and the land was bought by the American company La Rosario. Under gringo ownership, the mines reached their highest period of development. From its forty mines in the mountains of La Tigra, the company exported gold and silver to Tegucigalpa from San Juancito. From Tegucigalpa, La Rosario's cargo went to the seaport in San Lorenzo on the south coast, and thence to United States. The journey occurred mostly by mule-back, with each animal bearing two large ingots of metal. The Churrotea-Flores family had used the same process to build the mining works twenty years earlier, laboriously transporting stone, pipes, and other necessities through the countryside from Tegucigalpa.

While the Company's presence led to modernization in San Juancito, extracting the wealth of the mines often cost the health, safety, and financial well-being of the miners. The average worker only received 1.50 lempiras per day. Those trained to operate machinery received the marginally greater wage of 6 lempiras daily for their labor. The conditions in La Tigra led to increased rates of tuberculosis and pneumonia as workers spent hours in dark, poorly-ventilated tunnels, inhaling the metal dust in the air. Cave-ins constantly endangered the roughly three-hundred men who mined in La Tigra at any given time.

But the La Rosario's practice of paying poor wages ultimately became its undoing. Paymaster Julio Lozano Diaz petitioned the Company for an increase in payments for the workers, a gesture that led to his dismissal. Diaz campaigned successfully for the presidency of Honduras, and when he assumed office in 1954 one of his first acts was to raise export tariffs on gold and silver to unpayable rates, thereby forcing the Americans out of the country. Diaz then declared La Tigra a national park.
Fifty years after the closing of the mines, Hondurans remain understandably ambivalent about their legacy. Despite the undeniable economic benefits of its presence, La Rosario's legacy is far from completely advantageous to the residents of poverty-stricken San Juancito. "In some ways it was good and in some ways it was bad," reflected La Tigra park ranger and San Juancito native Jose Cristobal y Lovares. "If the president had not thrown out the Company, we would have a desert instead of a mountain." Fellow ranger Carlos Garay agreed, stressing the necessity of continued care for the park, the source of 70% of Tegucigalpa's drinking water. "Now, because of the growth of the city, more people are invading park lands, and because of this the park is a little bit smaller." Lovares added that, "Today we have to maintain the park, because the pure air produced by the vegetation here supports the entire world." While exploitative mining companies may have come and gone, the balance between assuaging poverty and preserving nature remains a difficult one to fix in La Tigra.

Paradise Threatened

Park rangers face many challenges in protecting the natural beauty of La Tigra

BY CHARLOTTE GUINNESS

There has been grave concern for the future of the world's cloud forests following an alert from the World Conservation Monitoring Centre(WCMC), a UK-based organization which is now a part of the UN Environment Programme (UNEP).

Twenty-five per cent of the world's cloud forests are located in Latin America, including La Tigra, however new evidence has come to light revealing that the extent of the forests is around one fifth smaller than scientists previously believed.

The February meeting of the Convention on Biological Diversity in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, marked the launch of a report entitled "Cloud Forest Agenda", produced by Unep-WCMC, in conjunction with IUCN- The World Conservation Union. The report details the recent disturbing scientific findings and catalogues the threats facing the forests including farming, fires, logging, road-building and global warming. Also highlighted is the importance of the forests to the surrounding population.

The report states "The cloud forests of La Tigra National Park…provide over forty per cent of the water for the 850,000 people living in the capital Tegucigalpa."
No one is more mindful of the threats facing La Tigra than park ranger Carlos Garay who has been working at the conservation site for two-and-a-half years. His role entails protecting the vegetation and rare species of the forest and maintenance of the extensive area with eleven fellow rangers.

A major challenge facing the park rangers is the lack of understanding in the local community of ecological issues, they encounter many instances of locals burning areas of forest and cutting down woodland, severely hindering the conservation effort. In addition to this, many locals are unaware of the role La Tigra plays in supplying water to the country's capital. However remedying this lack of information often proves difficult and the rangers regularly experience hostility from local people in attempting to combat deforestation and fires. A recent initiative in La Tigra saw a film being produced about the conservation work taking place to be shown to local inhabitants and this, it is hoped, will go some way towards improving the situation.

Fires pose a huge threat within the park with rangers regularly having to take on the role of firemen and bravely enter areas of forest set ablaze with very basic equipment. In cases where the water supply is too remote to permit the use of hoses the rangers are forced to fight fires armed only with rakes, often battling with the flames throughout the night. "We are the best firemen in Honduras!" Mr Garay joked.

Fortunately, an increasing number of volunteers are coming to La Tigra to assist the rangers. Mr Garay welcomes approximately one-hundred-and- twenty volunteers a year from countries as diverse as Norway and Iraq. They help with planting, repairs to trails and bridges, clearing trails, collecting refuse and even fire-fighting. However, owing to the small number of rangers, Mr Garay believes the park would benefit from an increased intake of volunteers. When asked what he would say to entice people to assist the conservation effort he responded,

"I would tell them to come and enjoy the beauty and tranquility of the park- for me it is paradise".
The breathtaking landscape of La Tigra certainly had a significant impact on Philip Bubb of Unep-WCMC who said:
"My chief memory of the forests is of their stunning beauty. They're like something out of 'The Lord of the Rings', great tall trees covered in ferns and orchids. The birdsong echoes through the cool moist air and they feel very ancient places".

"Pure Party Pleasure"...shipwrecked style!

The "party boat" arrives at water kay

BY LAURA GRIFFITHS

The private uninhabited Island of Water Kay, 6 miles from Utila was taken over by around 600 party goers last Saturday. The Utila Sun Jam is a celebration of Deep house and techno and Caribbean soul for those up for a good time.

The only way to Water Kay is by boat, the "party boat". Saturday saw the main pier in Utila packed with party goers ready to dance the night away. The boat left at 1pm, not returning until 9am the next day, giving people the chance to enjoy the Island by day and night. The Island itself is a pile of powdered sand inhabited only by palm trees, in the turquoise waters of the Caribbean.

The idea of the Sun Jam began 8 years ago when a group of friends decided to continue the party of Coco Locos, a bar on Utila, to a neighboring Island. Since it began the Jam has received more international recognition each year. In the past the Jam has been predominantly attended by locals, but many people from neighboring El Salvador and Guatemala as well as travelers from all over the world stop over in Utila for the occasion.

The big attraction of the sun jam is the music, with this years 12 DJ line-up including talent from all over the world. Dj's included: Gary Gi from Honduras, Mar-K Mark from the U.K., Lu-maya from Chile and Ofo Nuñes from El Salvador.

Last years Sun Jam brought considerably more party goers than expected, with tickets and space running out. This year the organizers where ready for the crowd, receiving sponsorship from Heineken to improve the party.

As someone not familiar with the Sun Jam, I was a little wary of being shipped wrecked on a party Island in the middle of the Ocean. In preparation for the event, I was told the Island was equipped only with sun, sand and music, so toilets, water, food and alcohol were luxuries that Water Kay did without.

This news lead me to arrive on Water Kay complete with gallons of water, food and the odd bottle of rum, only to find my information source had been mistaken and all these services were provided. Even ice for the drinks.

Most people back for a second or third year came equipped only with a hammock to sling between two palm trees. Although sleep was not on the agenda, it was ideal in order to chill out in the early hours.

As the sun set the beats increased and the partying began. Fire devils entertained the crowds with ropes, torches and chains decorating the sky.

I had heard a rumor that if any fights broke out on the Island the culprits would be tied to a palm tree until the next day. Luckily enough this did not occur. There were reports of people thieving the possessions of unsuspecting partiers who had left their belongings while dancing. The suspects were caught and taken to a neighboring uninhabited island and left to swim home or a catch a passing boat the next morning.

The Sun Jam is held in the first week of August every year. Those who missed out this year only have to wait until Easter however as the success of the event has led to Sun Jam kicking off twice a year.

El Bar

Antonio in his "El Bar"

By JAMES STEVENSON

With a sheer drop on one side and surrounded by towering forest the average tourist could be forgiven for mistaking it as one of the locals homes. Not much more than a painted wooden shack, El Bar has no distinguishing features to identify it as a drinking establishment.

The propriator, Antonio, barely acknowledges your existence with his head lowered and partially hidden under a cowboy style hat.

Heading for the only table we quickly realise there would be no table service.The choice of drinks is limited to beer or Tatascan, which Antonio reccomends is mixed with cola and the juice of half a lemon.

Making every movement seem like a chore Antonio turns to the fridge to get our drinks which at fifteen Lempiras a bottle of beer is very reseasonable considering the effort he goes to to bring the drinks up there and that he his is the only bar in the community.

You sit at the only table and survey the room. It dawns on you that this is not just Antonios business it is his home as well. A metal framed bed with a discoloured matress takes up one corner of the room with a small shower and toilet occupying the opposite corner.

As your eyes adjust to the dim light you will spot an aging dartboard with two sets of of terribly inaccurate plastic darts. Upon request Antonio can supply you with a pristine set of playing cards and a set of mini dominos.

The bar itself consists of a thin plank of wood with just eough room to fit a couple of bottles of beer and Antonios elbows. A carved wooden sign hangs behing Antonio with El Bar etched in to it. The sign, the mirror ball which hangs menaceingly over the bar and the fairy lights surrounding the sign were all donated by volunteers working on conservation projects within the park. There is an unwritten rule that before a volunteer leaves they must buy something new for the bar.
It is hard to estimate Antonio´s age though if one had to, mid forties would be about right. He has been working in the bar trade for 27 years, but only in El Bar for the past 5 months. Before becoming a barman Antonio was an architect, but was forced into the career change due to lack of work in arictecture.

The weekend attracts tourists to the park and customers for El Bar. Antonio claims at its peak he can cram 20 - 30 customers in his bar. It is hard to see where all these people would stand never mind where Antonio would store enough drinks to quench their thirst.

Antonio does have plans for the bar and is obviously well aware that the tourist trade will inevitably increase. Idealy he would like to expand his selection of drinks and possibly serve food, but his first prioity must be to fix the battered old floor.

As tourist industry wakes up to the beauty of Honduras and La Tigra the tourist numbers will increase as will Antonios profits. With time El Bar will expand and become more westernised and ultimately loose some of its natural charm, but for now Antonios home and business remains hidden by the forest.

New bus service to San Salvador ........ The Hedman Alas bus line has just inaugurated service to San Salvador. No you can depart from La Ceiba at 5:15 am, Tegucigalpa 5:45 am, Tela 7am, San Pedro Sula 9:35am and Copan Ruinas at 12:35pm and arrive in San Salvador in 1st class comfort at 4:35pm. Hedman Alas is know for his luxury first class coaches with all the bells and whistles; fully pumped up air conditioning, complimentary snacks, on board steward and comfy waiting rooms. Hedman has a terminal in San Salvador at Calle El Progreso 2814 Tel 503 230 5100.

* * *
As the globalization steamroller approaches the shores of Central America, can Honduras keep up with numbers like these ...... ? According to figures from the Honduran National Institute of Statistics, only 25.4% of the population between the ages of 13 -18 attend High School and 1 in 5 persons over 15 years of age cannot read. In the rural areas the situation is even worse where only 10% of young people attend High School. Then comes the issue of what those students that have managed to make it to HS are actually learning. The vast majority of public and private High Schools provide precious little in the way of quality learning, mostly they are holding tanks for young people who are taught with decidedly old school methodology. Public High Schools have no textbooks, no labs, no libraries, no materials since virtually every penny of the government education budget goes to pay teachers salaries, leaving precious nothing left over for "extras ". At the University level the situation is much the same. At the public university in San Pedro Sula, some 15,000 students attend a University which was built to accommodate a fraction of those numbers. The budget last year was a mere $6 million or so .. virtually every penny going to pay for salaries. If Honduras is ever to begin to pick itself up by its own bootstraps and reduce its incredibly high poverty rate which hovers around 70% then advances must be made in education. If almost no students graduate High School and still fewer make it to University, then the country is doomed to continuing high level of poverty and lack of development.

* * *
Good news for the free flow of tourists and others across the borders of Central America ...... The Ministers of Tourism and Directors of Immigration of Central America met recently to finalize plans to open up borders by elimination visa requirements to citizens of 84 countries so as to permit the free movement of tourists. Tourism in Central America is big business going from $2.6 billion in 1999 to $3.6 billion in 2002.

* * *
The first days of August signify for some the beginning of the end of summer but for others summer break is just getting started. For Salvadorans for example their annual vacation period is timed to coincide with the big feria in San Salvador during the first week of August where virtually the entire country shuts down and those with the economic means head off for vacation. With El Salvador receiving now some $2 billion worth of money transfers from relatives living in the US and an ever improving, global economy, Salvadorans are providing the tourism economy in Central America with a much needed local boost. Honduras picks up a share of Salvadoran tourism which is attracted by diving on the Bay Islands, the white sand beaches of the Honduran North Coast and mountain hamlets like Copan Ruinas. El Salvador is an extremely small yet densely populated country and the wide open stretches of mountains and beaches in Honduras make it a very attractive destination for Salvadorans looking to chill out and get away from the hustle and bustle without traveling to far from home. Ah well, Honduras is a good buy for Salvadorans who pack up their late model SUV's and carry dollars ( the currency now in Salvador ). With a bit of creative marketing from the Ministry of Tourism, Honduras could pull in an even larger share of the Salvadoran tourism pie.

No Dogs or Roosters!

This beautiful Trujillan beach is extremely easily accessed from Casa Kiwi

BY TONJE ROBERTSEN

Freedom from dogs and roosters is definitely not the number one selling point for Casa Kiwi in Trujillo, but it surely adds to the splendor of the hotel's north coast beach.

"I think Trujillo is one of the most beautiful spots in the world," said Chaz Leech from New Zealand, owner of Casa Kiwi. She first came to Honduras in 1999, and after travelling the country, she started building the hotel and restaurant in March 2002. Today, she owns and runs the charismatic hotel outside of the town of Trujillo, with a beautiful beach approximately 27 footsteps from the doors of the rooms.

Chaz Leech from New Zealand owns and runs Casa Kiwi. Here in front of the infamous bar.

The fact that not many tourists venture east of La Ceiba is Trujillo's biggest problem in terms of developing a strong tourism economy, she claims. There are no flights to Trujillo and the roads through Olancho are in a bad state. The bus from La Ceiba takes about four hours, so weekend travelers from the larger cities of Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula are few.

Travelers ignoring Trujillo, however, will miss out on the very spot where Christopher Columbus hit land in 1502, on his fourth and last journey to the Americas. Though archeological finds show that the town had been populated for hundreds of years already, Trujillo was founded on May 18, 1525, by Juan de Medina under orders of Hernán Cortés.

Its location by one of the deepest bays in Central-America resulted in Trujillo being an extremely important port during colonial times. The heat and humidity, however, made for unhealthy living conditions in the area, and on several occasions, Trujillo was completely abandoned. The British pirates causing havoc in the Caribbean waters repeatedly attacked the settlement, resulting in the construction of the Santa Barbara Fortress, which can be visited today. It was recently restored, and a museum within the fortress offers a collection of Colonial artifacts and a presentation of the Garifuna culture that is strongly represented in Trujillo and its surrounding areas.

Another site worth visiting is the grave of William Walker, the North American adventurer who was head of the Nicaraguan government for a short period of time, and later was executed in Trujillo. Seven kilometers from the town center are natural hot springs, the Capiro and Calentura Park harbors protected Honduran wildlife, nearby Garifuna villages can be visited, and the Guaimoreto Lagoon, also a protected area, can be reached by boat. And don't forget the numerous, remote beaches.
Leech said she believes that the Trujillo tourism will increase within the next few years, as the Honduran government currently is investing heavily in this industry. "People will start looking further than Roatan," she said.

A kiwi in Trujillo is no problem, said Leech, as New Zealand and Honduras share the same relaxed attitude. A local joke claims that when Columbus left Trujillo, he instructed the locals not to do anything until he got back...and that they have kept their promise to this day.

Casa Kiwi today offers eight rooms, which can fit between thirty and fifty people, depending on how many you are willing to fit under one mosquito net. Next month, the building of three air conditioned cabañas will start, and the floor of the restaurant is being expanded and will soon be screened in.

Travelers wanting to stay on for a while after exposing their money belts to drastic diets, or simply wanting to get away from it all and enjoy the beach, are welcome to stay because: "we can always use the help," she said, and explained that they are flexible about employment opportunities.

The comment book bear witness of happy customers. Two female travelers described their weekend as: "Absolutely wicked! Overcoming the bugs was a challenge, but hey - we are ozzie wooses [whimps]! We had an awesome time with awesome people working at Casa Kiwi. To know that you can spend four days on a Caribbean beach with no one else but cows is memorable!"

Tela - Tried and Tested

Hotel Cesar Mariscos in Tela offers relaxing surroundings for its guests.

BY LAURA GRIFFITHS

Downtown Tela is lined with an assortment of hotels, and a weary traveler, complete with bags and the beating sun, can easily become overwhelmed when looking for a place to stay. Setting down camp hastily can be a big mistake as many hotels on first appearance seem acceptable to dump ones bags in and head for the beach. Returning for the night is a different story, once fed and relaxed you might realize things were not as they seemed and you can end up enduring a sleepless night. A good midrange place to stay is Cesar Mariscos, situated on the sea front in down town Tela. The hotel and restaurant is family operated so has a safe and welcoming environment for any traveler. Cesar Mariscos was founded in 1972 solely as a restaurant, it was then restored in 1993. Only in 1997 did Cesar Mariscos become a hotel as well as a restaurant.

The location of the hotel could not be improved as most rooms have beach view, and the open air restaurant lines the beach. The hotel has 19 rooms and is currently being expanded, the building work being done does not effect the restfulness of your stay and is to be completed shortly to make space for more visitors to enjoy the services on offer. Cesar Mariscos services included, Internet, Jacuzzi, shuttle service and tours around the nearby national parks.

Although not heavily commercialized, Cesar Mariscos has had much international acknowledgement and recognition for it's fine seafood cuisine. In 1993, an article in the New York Times praised the restaurant's menu.

If you are unable to stay at the hotel make sure you enjoy a meal at Cesar's. The seafood, especially the shrimps, is of a different quality at the restaurant and with friendly service and idyllic setting there are no causes for complaints.

When you have rested your tired traveling legs in the communal hammocks or enjoyed a cool drink while admiring the sea view, it is time for some sight seeing. Tela has been described as a Honduran Cancun-to-be. The stretched out powdered sand beaches seem to show that Tela Bay is certainly headed that way. The whole town is rather underdeveloped and many tourists can interpret the calm seediness of the place as quite unpleasant. Try not be put off as most of the sites to see in Tela are not in downtown. There is much to do apart from relaxing on the white sand beaches; Kayaking excursions, visiting the Garifuna villages and the Lancetilla Botanical Gardens.

Tela was home to the United Fruit Company in the early 20th century and hosted the Tela Rail Company. What is left today is a worn-out town with a new breath of life coming from tourism. Most of Tela's income other than tourism comes from African palm plantations and cattle ranching.

The beaches in downtown Tela are not convincingly clean; a shame as it tarnishes the beauty that is so evidently there. A short walk alone the beach heading west of the river will take you to Villas Telamer beach. Although an expensive place to stay the beach in front is clean and safe. If you are prepared to go further a field a 15 minutes taxi ride East of Tela is Ensenada. This secluded beach is completely different from the ones closer to town; you can sample fried fish cooked on the beach by local women and enjoy a more secret paradise. Local busses do also go to Ensanada regularily, but the taxi drive is inexpensive and the drivers are more than happy to pick you up at an arranged time for the secured fare.

In the past, Tela has had a bad reputation for tourism, with attacks and muggings being common events. This has changed. Tela now has its own tourism police force, which patrols the town center and the main beaches. This has encouraged the nightlife to blossom, being second only to La Ceiba. The tourism police are happy to walk you back to your hotel after a night out at the eastside discos, so there really is no excuse.

The 2004 Project Honduras Conference is fast approaching and registration for the event is running well ahead of last year. The yearly conference brings together hundreds of representatives of many non governmental organizations (NGOs) who work on a wide variety of projects.

As of July 31, the conference has registered a total of 83 people to attend the Conference on Honduras 2004 in Copan
Ruins during October 21-24. This is 43% more than they had at this time last year. Over 310 people attend last year's conference. At the current pace, this years conference could surpass 400 this year. Most people tend to wait to register during the two months prior to the conference.

Of the 83 registered thus far, 53 will be traveling to Honduras from the US and 2 from Canada. Twenty-eight people who have registered are from within Honduras.

The people traveling from the US represent a total of 17 states, including California (8), Texas (8), New Jersey (6), North Carolina (6), Virginia (6), Georgia (4), South Carolina (2), Tennessee (2),Arkansas (1), District of Columbia (1), Florida (1), Illinois (1), Louisiana (1), Massachusetts (1), Minnesota (1), Ohio (1), and Washington (1).

The people from Honduras represent a total of 12 areas, including San Pedro Sula (5), Tegucigalpa (5), Copan Ruins (4), La Ceiba (4), El Progreso (3), Catacamas (2), Roatan (2), Canchias (1), La Entrada (1), Ocotepeque (1), San Isidro (1), and Santa Rosa de Copan (1).

There is a variety of organizations represented, including churches, consultancies, foundations, governments, orphanages, medical brigades, medical clinics, private non-governmental organizations (NGOs), schools, and universities.

There are administrators, architects, business people, clinical
therapists, consultants, dentists, physicians, pilots, ministers,
missionaries, program managers, government workers, surgeons,
teachers, writers, and many other professions represented.
In short, the Conference will attract a wide mix of "human capital" - all of it available to the people of Honduras. What organizers are trying to do is bring all these resources of time, experience, expertise, talent, and energy together under one roof over a period of four days. They want to see what synergies can br discovered amongst participants and find ways to work together better so that the whole becomes greater than the sum of its parts. The meeting also attempts to foster " social tourism " as an important niche product for the up and coming Honduran tourism sector.

If you haven't registered for the conference and you're interested in attending the event, please go online at
www.specialmissions.org/volunteer_donate1.htm
During August-September, the price will be $100 per person. No registrations will be accepted in October. Note that there may be an entry limit to the first 400 people who register because the Municipal Conference Center, where the event will held cannot comfortably accommodate more than that. If you have any questions, please e-mail Conferenceorganizer Marco caceres at hondopost@yahoo.com For info about the conference, see www.projecthonduras.com/conference

Ecotourism Certification: Stop the Steamroller

By RON MADER

When it comes to certifying what constitutes sustainable tourism and ecotourism, there is little consensus and a growing demand to "stop the steamroller."

Certification requires communication which requires information which is sorely lacking in Central America. Should Honduras embrace certification of "sustainable tourism," it may be the latest country to fall victim to a policy that has failed around the globe.

Government interest in certification has not translated into financial support in most countries, and failed certification systems are now found in the many countries.

According to sustainable development consultant Megan Epler Wood:
"It has been suggested by the new InterAmerican Bank MIF project for a Sustainable Tourism Certification System that certification for sustainability of tourism will increase competitiveness and market access of small and medium sized enterprises in Latin America. However a thorough review of existing reports on this topic, despite significant donor investment already, shows that there are no market demand studies available to justify this assumption."

A SOLUTION IN SEARCH OF A PROBLEM
There are a number of serious problems with certifying and accrediting ecotourism and sustainable travel, starting with the lack of consumer demand. Prioritizing certification at this time is simply presenting a solution in search of a problem.

Most stakeholders have been left out of the process, including indigenous peoples, community representatives and owners of leading ecotourism businesses.

Leading tour operators believe certification and accreditation schemes are a scam. Critical voices, however, are rarely heard in official meetings geared to champion certification at any cost. The result is that institutional funders have no idea that certification is a such a hornet's nest.

CRITICAL VOICES
To facilitate a dialogue among program proponents and critics, Planeta conducted the Ecotourism Certification Workshop (2000-2003) which provided an opportunity for a frank discussion for the pros and cons of certification programs.

In an editorial on ECOCLUB, web publisher Antonis Petropoulos points out that "ecotourism is not a movement for certifying tourism, but a movement to change it."

In a private conversation one travel operator told me, "Certification is the elephant at the table. We have to find a way of focusing on issues that matter more."

DISSING THE TOURISTS
"There's no participation by anyone who can even remotely claim to represent tourists," says Bill Hinchberger, editor & publisher of BrazilMax. "Many of the participants at the meeting that created the Brazilian Sustainable Tourism Council (Conselho Brasiliero de Turismo Sustentável) spent much of their time dissing tourists. Now, many tourists deserve to be dissed, but not by certification groups that need to attract their support."

"Even responsible tourists are unlikely to pay attention to certification. And if they don't, there's no point to this exercise," added Hinchberger. "This is partly a marketing problem, but marketing seems to be at most an afterthought in all the certification schemes I've seen."

THE PARADOX
For responsible travel or ecotourism to succeed, we must be aware of our own perspectives and definitions. If we insist on high environmental standards and minimal impacts, costs skyrocket. This places the services and destinations into a "luxury" class tourism - sometimes without the amenities those who pay high-end prices are accustomed.

What is the best example of ecotourism - a rustic, community lodge or a foreign-owned, eco-friendly green hotel? Too often architects and consultants promote high technical standards and luxurious eco-lodges because they have a personal stake to certify those businesses which pay them quite well.

At risk are many stakeholders - particularly rural and indigenous guides - who do not have the financial resources to take part in established guide training programs. Typically, programs are not offered in the field, but in the capital city. Those who might benefit from ecotourism, namely farmers (campesinos) and residents of rural areas that lie next to or even coincide with protected areas are never the focal point of evaluation, promotion, let alone certification.

Worse, if the program is offered in the field, the organizer - be it an NGO or government office - rarely attempts to promote who has received the training.

For those interested in tourism that alleviates poverty or strengthens local autonomy, certification has shown no tangible benefits. Hurrying the process along does a disservice to us all. We may be ready for it in 2020.

Ron Mader is the host of the Planeta.com website and co-author of the first edition of the Honduras: Adventures in Nature guidebook.

El Salvador's Pacific Playas

Tourists on Playa El Cuco in El Salvador.

BY TONJE ROBERTSEN

Much can be said about the relationship between Honduras and El Salvador, but despite the time consuming adventure crossing the border; our neighbors' tropical backyard is worth exploring.

El Salvador's pacific coast stretches from Rio Paz in the west to the Rio Goascoran in the east, revealing almost 300 kilometers of sandy beaches, steep cliffs, and fascinating islands. Scattered along the coast are numerous little towns, one of which shares its name with the beautiful beach running past it; Playa El Cuco.

Its endless stretch of soft sand, tall waves and even taller palm trees, is easily reached by bus from San Miguel, close to the Honduran border. The direct bus takes about an hour and thirty minutes.

The journey offers a spectacular view of the Volcan San Miguel and its surrounding valleys (sit on the right side of the bus on the way from San Miguel!). It does not, however, offer much room for stretching your legs, so a good travel tip would be to go by car. That way, you can also take advantage of the amazing photo opportunities.

After passing the small town of Chirilagua, hopping off the bus in the peculiar village of Playa El Cuco and venturing down a muddy path intertwining between fishermen's villages, the powdery sand and soothing waves of the Salvadorian Pacific Ocean will make up for every drop of sweat shed on the crammed bus.

The town of Playa El Cuco will not be favored by party animals, as the selection of extra curricular activities offered after sunset are rather scarce. There are a couple of restaurants, of which two out of three tested simply gave the option of "chicken, shrimp or fish" without presenting a menu.

Continue east down the beach, however, and you will find several relatively cheap hotels on the beach. Extensive tourist facilities and exclusive resorts are far and few between in this area; its attraction is to be found on the seemingly never ending, clean beaches and charming fishing villages.

Did you know ....... that Honduras exported 2,422 containers of cucumbers to the US market in 2004? The harvest provided employment for over 10,000 farm workers and more than 500 workers in packing plants. Honduras earned some $20 million in sales during this years cucumber harvest.

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How many hours per week do you work? In Honduras most workers put in a 6 day week and many work more than the usual 8 hours per day. However in some countries, work weeks have been shrinking as fast as the size of cell phones. Norway takes the lead with workers there putting in an average of 25.7 hours per week, next is Holland with 26 hours, Germany 27.8, France 27.3, Belgium 29.7. The US comes in at 34.5 hrs per week and Mexico with 35.7.

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Costa Rica continues to pack 'em in ...... I often refer to Costa Rica as "our tourism powerhouse to the south " and with good reason. Costa Rica last year received 80,000 tourists more than in 2002. A total of 1.2 million tourists visited Costa Rica in 2003, more than half came from the US.

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Hurricane season 04 ...... coming to a beach near you ...... As spring winds down and summer approaches, ones thoughts turn to lazy days lounging on white sand beaches and plenty of scuba diving, snorkeling and piña colada chugging. However one other theme which garners the attention of Caribbean bound beach aficionados is the onset of hurricane season which starts June 1 and runs through November 30. This season meteorologists are predicting up to four hurricanes of severe intensity and a more active season than normal.

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Honduras is now a major player in the fish export business ...... In addition to the aforementioned cucumbers, Honduras is now producing a gamut of what are called in the busines " non traditional exports ". Another of these non traditional agro-exports is tilapia, a fish which has gained widespread popularity in supermarkets and restaurants in the US. In 2003 Honduras exported 2.5 million kilos of fresh tilapia fillet which brought some $14 million in profits for Honduras. Honduras has 14 export producers which generate 17,000 direct and indirect jobs. Due to rapid expansion in recent years, Honduras is now the number three exporter of fresh tilapia fillet to the US market. Ahead of Honduras are Costa Rica and Ecuador.

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The weekend pill has landed on Honduran shores.....Cialis better known as the weekend pill as its male libido enhancing properties last up to 36 hours is now available in pharmacies in Honduras. In a press conference in Honduras this past May, a panel of Latin American doctors extolled the virtues of the pill which is now giving Viagra a run for its money. According to an a neurologist presenting at the meeting, Cialis is unique in that it can be taken with food and drinks which according to the good doctor, represents a big advantage since in general, " romantic encounters usually arise after a dinner with a friend or a business dinner." Funny.. but I never usually associated business dinners with sexual intercourse .... hmmm. Another interesting tidbit of information which came out of the conference was the stat that 50% of Honduran males between the ages of 40 -70 present problems of erectile dysfunction. I wonder what the percentage is for expats living in Honduras?

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And how about some really bad news to finish off this weeks column ....... according to newly released government statistics, by the year 2020 Honduras will be pretty much totally deforested ... can you say Haiti? According to Cohdefor which is the Honduran institution charged with managing ( or should I say mismanaging ) Honduras forests, 120,000 hectares of forest are destroyed each year, which is 168,000 manzanas ( a manzana is 1.75 acres ). In 1996 it was 108 hectares and in 1990 87 hectares. Thus the long term prognosis is grim. If population growth in Honduras as well as poverty and use of wood for cooking is not soon addressed, the country will be doomed to a subsistence, utterly bleak and not very promising exsistance.

Natural History Expedition to the Tawhka Reserve PART III

By ROBERT GALLARDO

In the next few days we observed other spectacular birds such as the White-throated Shrike-Tanager, Golden-crowned Spadebill, Song Wren, Long-tailed Tyrant, Snowcap, Snowy Cotinga, Black-collared Hawk, Slate-colored Grosbeak and Tawny-throated Leaftosser.

We had also found that the Sutawala Valley and its natural inhabitants were not alone. The area is literally used as a highway between the Patuca River and Nicaragua. We ran into people from Colon and Catacamas as well as a number of locals coming from Nicaragua. Not long ago there was no one living there, but now there are four settlements. One day we heard a chainsaw running in the distance and then the crash of trees. We came upon a huge clearcut that totaled some thirty acres. It was a disgraceful sight that scarred the otherwise pristine landscape. It clearly demonstrates how there is absolutely no authority whatsoever in the protection of this reserve. What this country needs is military presence with an iron fist to keep people out of these protected areas. How much land needs to be settled and how long will the compromising continue? It is not as if there is no available land in outlying areas for people to farm.

Dionisio said that when he was young he had observed on separate occasions two Harpy Eagles in the Rio Wamnpu area and that the entire area is now totally destroyed with large communities and sea after sea of cattle pastures and deforested hillsides. He said one used to be able to walk from Wampu to Culmi without leaving forest cover that is impossible now. It is quite pathetic how these governments place virtually no importance on protecting the environment , its biodiversity and native peoples. Their lack of action and nearsightedness is like shooting oneself in the foot, as these areas in the long run have the potential to produce tourism revenue.

It is not as if no one knows this; rather no one wants to create a conflict of interest. The interests at stake in eastern Honduras are big and include the colonizers, large cattle ranchers, wild animal traffickers and illegal logging operations- many of which occur inside the protected areas. Some of the large cattle operations are owned by ex-military or politicians. The colonizers are paid to clear cut forest and plant grass for cattle or clear it anyways and sell it to the ranchers. Quite often large, precious hardwoods are left on the ground and burned. Families move in from afar. The cancer of colonization continues to spread unchecked. No one has the courage nor the motivation to face this problem and perhaps there is no one single easy solution.

Wouldn't this area be a beautiful place for a jungle lodge? Fly into Wampusirpe then boat into the heart of the rainforest. It would be as nice or nicer, and perhaps more wild than anywhere else in the Central American lowlands. It would be at least a small example of how these areas could be used on a sustainable and economic level.

Needless to say we did not see a Harpy or Crested Eagle in the Valley. In fact, the rains picked up even more and we made the decision to head back to Wampusirpe. We dropped Dionisio back off in Krausirpe and thanked him for his services. I'm sure we will meet again. While there we further explored the pine savanna and found the Vermillion Flycatcher everywhere. Its ruby red cap and chest glowed bright against the green backdrop. It was a special find for me as it was the 600th species of bird I had observed in Honduras.
On the morning of the 28th down by the river we observed two lovely birds: The White-throated and Gray-breasted Crakes- the latter of which is quite difficult to find in Central America. Using pre-recorded calls and some patience we were able to coax them to come out into view and were able to reconfirm their presence in the area.

The same morning we left Wampusirpe and took a boat to Ahuas where we would fly out. On the way down we observed many stunning Roseate Spoonbills and flocks of migratory Blue-winged Teals. We also observed many turtles (Mesoamerican Sliders) and quite a few American Crocodiles-the largest seen was about seven feet. On the 29th the Sosa plane arrived and we headed back to La Ceiba, again flying over the Rio Platano Reserve. This time I had imagined myself parachuting out into the core of this area and starting another adventure-another day.

During our brief visit we recorded over 240 species of birds- three of which were new for Honduras and one new butterfly. I got 15 Life birds and my wife some 40. I'm sure we would have made more discoveries if it were not for the rains, but, after all, it is a "rain" forest. It is an area I will return to and well worth the effort to protect and preserve when someone finally takes the interest in doing so.
With any luck this remote place will not turn into another Rio Wampu with sprawling communities and cattle pastures, but will be left to its original inhabitants-the Jaguar, Great Green Macaw, Harpy Eagle and even the little newly discovered Wrens. I believe I speak for us all in that we were quite impressed with the beautiful landscape and at the same time depressed by the touch of man as he begins to infiltrate this emerald realm.