T. G. I. Flat: Gracias Lempira

Tranquility in the mountains

By ALEX OGLE, FREDDIE ARMESTO, MARGHERITA STANCATI

“Thank God we finally found flat land.” With these inspiring words the Spanish greeted the site where Gracias was to be built, hence the name.

Visitor may find themselves repeating this epithet after riding for hours on the back of a pickup over bumpy, unpaved dirt roads where pot holes are as common as mud.

Though buses are infrequent to and from Gracias, hitchhiking is generally easy and safe, and the views alone make a bruised coxyx worthwhile. Lenca highlands of rolling mountains, swaying pine trees and wisps of low floating clouds make up the picturesque backdrop of ascent to the colonial town.

The arrival is no disappointment.

Red tile roofs, bright coloured gardens and white-faced churches: Gracias is the epitome of a 17th Century colonial mountain outpost.

Founded in 1536, Gracias remains a classic remnant of a colonial conquest, and that old school penchant for a predicatably square layout, with straight roads and a central plaza next to the church.

But, in recent years, where other towns that could have been built from the same blueprint - such as Antigua, Guatemala - have expereienced a great resurgance of investment and visitor infrastructure, with fast food joints, tourist police, and more white faces than a Klu-Klux-Klan shindig, Gracias remains something of a Honduran secret.

New hotels and restaurants are springing up at the moment, and the dusty, uneven roads are in the process of being paved. There is evidently potential for Gracias to see a large influx of tourists in years to come, but right now, visitors are mostly able to enjoy the graceful surroundings in peace.

Bathing in the nearby agua thermals –hot springs – is a perfect solution to a long day of hiking around the neighbouring national park (La Celaque), or to compliment an evening doob at the town’s modest botanical garden.

Whilst the pools are ideal in the early evening, they are best avoided on the weekend, when the steaming area might easily be mistaken for the set of a low budget R‘n’B video as local teenagers takeover the relaxed proceedings with crackling, tinny boom-boxes.

The beautiful Lenca village of La Campas is another perfect destination for a day trip. At the village’s comedor one can sample the typical Honduran dish in the surreal company of a rabbit, parrot and piglet, presumably some sort of of cartoon crime-fighting collective.

In Gracias, some of the most comfortable hotels and restuarants have panoramic views over the town, and beyond.
Upon leaving visitors may find themselves saying gracias to Gracias for such a beautiful stay. Indeed, T. G. I. so lovely!

 

Copan Update By HOWARD ROSENZWEIG

The issue of signage in and around the village of Copan Ruinas is taking on an important role in the future development and protection of the town and its immediate surrounding areas. As the ruins are considered a World Patrimony Site and the nearby village is the place where the overwhelming percentage of visitors to the ruins eat, sleep, shop and party. The importance of appropriate signage should not be underestimated as part of the overall tourist’s experience.

The general consensus among tourism professionals and preservationists is that signage must be appropriate to the site. Thus, neon signs, electric signs provided by beverage companies, roadside billboards, etc should all be considered not appropriate. As well, signs in the village of Copan should be site appropriate, taking into account its history, cultural and social milieu. Painted product logos and store names painted in large letters right on the exterior walls of businesses are not acceptable, as well as a host of other non-typical signage.

At the present time a team of architects are under contract to draft a comprehensive signage code for Copan and its surroundings as part of the World Bank Valle de Copan Project. However, the plan to rid the town of inappropriate signage seems to be facing delays, and as each day goes by waiting for a comprehensive signage code to be approved and implemented, more and more signs that are not appropriate are going up without any control by any entity.

Each time such a sign goes up, a small bit of Copan’s cultural and aesthetic heritage is lost. The town and its surrounding areas begin to lose their charm and the town looks more like just any other rural town where signage regulations are nonexistent and the blight of signage provided by multinational companies predominates.

One must only look to nearby Santa Rosa de Copan for a lesson in what is possible if a town really puts its mind and heart to work for the common good. A few years back, the town of Santa Rosa de Copan, which is only a 2 hour drive from Copan Ruinas, initiated a downtown/historic district revitalization and preservation program With strong backing from a young, progressive mayor and the active involvement of citizens and various NGOs. One of the first tasks was a signage code which led to the removal of all inappropriate signage and their replacement with a host of typical, appropriate designs which conserve the historic patrimony of the town.

Today, Santa Rosa de Copan’s downtown has been revitalized, and in addition to appropriate signage, building facades have been spruced up. Important historical buildings and the Central Park have been renovated, always taking into account the local cultural situation. Santa Rosa today is a charming town that has reclaimed its historic roots. It is interesting to note that Santa Rosa de Copan primarily lives from commerce, as it is the business, banking and trade center for Western Honduras as well as its department capital. Tourism in Santa Rosa is miniscule especially when compared to Copan Ruinas for example, which should receive some 150,000 lempira per year.

It is somewhat hard to figure how a far flung town like Santa Rosa, which is far removed from established tourism routes, has been able to enact such a substantial, comprehensive downtown/historic district preservation project, whilst at the same time a truly major tourism destination like Copan Ruinas seems to be languishing in a jumble of laissez faire where there is no downtown protection program in place and none on the immediate horizon.

Every day that goes by in Copan Ruinas means another inappropriate roadside billboard, illuminated Pepsi sign, or other signage which only serve to detract from the towns and surrounding areas’ laid back rustic charm. Little by little the country and colonial inspired ambiance is degraded and whither.

If Copan Ruinas is to fully take advantage of its privileged position as one of the premier Mundo Maya sites and the number one archeological site in Honduras, then care must be taken to insure that Copan’s historic heritage is preserved and nurtured both in terms of the archeological park, the surrounding area as well as the village of Copan Ruinas. Copanecos must only look to our neighbor to the West, Santa Rosa for a shining example of what can be accomplished when men of good faith and far-sighted vision come together for the common good. Maybe then Copan Ruinas will be able to take its place as a village proud not only of its ruins, but of its charming and quaint downtown as well.

All About Roatan

A special visitor

Mr. Ian Brownlee, Counsel General representing the United States Embassy and the State Department, came to Roatan to meet with U.S. citizens. He is replacing Mr. Jones as Consul General and from all indications he will do a fine job. He shoots from the hip and doesn’t waste time pursuing impossible solutions. Evidence of his achievements thus far are showing up with the assignment of two investigators and two prosecutors working out of the FISCAL headquarters but assigned to investigate murders involving U.S. citizens.

He spoke first about the current visa dilemma and explained that they will entertain about forty two thousand applicants this year, and that approximately fifty two percent of those will qualify for visas. They now have a web site that will allow applicants to download a three-page application form, fill it in and fax it to the Embassy for pre-processing. If the applicant writes clearly it will help a lot. The website is http://honduras.usembassy.gov

Mr. Brownlee asked that we publish the contact information pertaining to questions pertaining to American citizen services. That number is 504 238 5114 ext 4400, and their e mail address is usahonduras@state.gov . So much can be accomplished over the phone or via the internet it would make sense to start there.
The Consul General promised the attendees that when the New Ambassador is confirmed his plan is to head straight for Honduras and his new desk. He will then set a time and place for a visit to Roatan. It sounded as if late November or early December might be the time, but they will let everyone know.

Location, location, location

Located in the heart of the West End shopping district we found a five/four bedroom, four bath plus individual infinity swimming pool custom homes well under construction. Given the tight ecological and environmental restrictions placed on developers as of late, this development is a miracle.

How did they get permission to build in such a compact space surrounded by massive setback laws? With diplomacy and compromise. The result is the highest and most productive use of a beautiful portion of land tucked behind the Belvedere and Lighthouse restaurant.

Literally walk to the action of Front Street or retreat into the secure privacy of your own-gated community.

In a personal interview with Mr. Edward Moulder, the Broker/Owner of Treasure Island Realty, we discussed the many steps that were necessary to get to this stage of construction. With cisterns, swimming pools, foundations and walls already in place, we were treated to probably one of the most panoramic 360’ views on the island. This is not a pipe dream, this is realty reality. The units are all available at this time and will be beautifully appointed with top of the line fixtures and appliances If purchased soon enough in the construction phase, the future owners will have a choice pertaining to the finished colors and textures. But hurry, the contractor is moving very fast. Call or write Mr. Moulder at 504 403 8054 or e-mail to ed@islaroatan.com for any and all information.

 

Aparthotel y Plaza Colonial: A Colonial palace with style

Each decorative detail of Aparthotel y Plaza Colonial transports you to the Colonial era.

GLADYS ACOSTA

In the heart of Tegucigalpa, Aparthotel y Plaza Colonial is waiting for visitors who have a great taste for colonial decoration and are in search of a luxurious, relaxing stay in Honduras.

Its exclusive design is a one of a kind in downtown Tegucigalpa. Every detail, from the paintings on the wall and water fountains to the sculpting on the wooden doors and lamps on the bedside tables, transports you to the beginning of the colonial era in Honduras.

Ten apartments and six hotel rooms make Aparthotel y Plaza Colonial a wonderful place to spend time. Each room is equipped with a comfortable bed, A/C, T.V., bathroom with hot water showers and very relaxing ambience. Beside this, the apartments have a small kitchen and dining room fully equipped to serve your necessities. Internet is also provided in each room.

One of the most important services offered by the staff of Aparthotel y Plaza Colonial is their personalized attention. From when you enter the hotel lobby they make you feel as if you were the kings or queens of that colonial palace. Your wishes are their commands!

Another important aspect is the 24/7 security. You can feel safe and sound and free to do whatever you want while being on their premises.

Some other services include an extended parking area that has enough space for 70 cars, transportation from the airport to the hotel and vise versa, and transportation to the best disco bar in Honduras: Bamboo!

Aparthotel y Plaza Colonial offers tariffs that range from $30 to $55, depending if you want a regular room or an apartment. Special tariffs are also offered to groups.

Tours to Santa Lucía and Valle de Angeles are made for those who want to enjoy the traditional towns that still conserve their colonial environment and culture.

If you are a businessman, frequent traveler or simply a passer by, do not hesitate to stay in Aparthotel y Plaza Colonial, where your wishes are will come true. Hotel Colonial is located at Bo. la Ronda, Ave. Hipolito Matute, Fte. Plaza Cristal

 

Roatan’s Intl. Caribbean Music Festival

Face in the crowd

By DON PEARLY

The Institute of Tourism arranged for what we hope to be the first of a series of international musical exchanges. Groups from around the world came together at Roatan’s Coral Caye for two full days and nights of Caribbean entertainment.

The weather fully cooperated, and with the help of several big name sponsors the event was a success. It was felt by the locals it was a bit pricey but that did not stop the crowds from attending. Guests from Guatemala, Mexico, Belize, El Salvador, Europe and the United States filed in to experience a professional show. Sound and lighting effects, big screen TV monitors, ample viewing room and good food were the side benefits of the musical extravaganza.

Security was excellent under the watchful eye of our own Commissario of the Preventative Police, Jorge Carias who headed up a Command Center on the grounds. All of the branches of service HTW recently wrote about were performing security checks and patrolling the outside parking area. There were even undercover security people in white yeberra shirts and that was our first clue to the “FACE IN THE CROWD” puzzle mentioned later in this article.

In most everyone’s opinion the highlight group of the festivities was our own Guillermo Anderson from La Ceiba. With constant changes in musical moods and various dancing treats sprinkled in and among the numbers, the crowd seemed to enjoy every note. Guillermo’s enthusiasm was broadcast on the big screens and everyone caught the fever.

Seen enjoying the atmosphere and excitement were many high government officials as well as prominent citizens of Roatan, Guanaja, La Ceiba, San Pedro Sula and especially for some reason Tegucigalpa. ( second clue to THE FACE IN THE CROWD puzzle ) To name but a few, in no particular order, we saw Minister Therri Pierrefeu, Kenya Zapata, Roatan Bruce, Ex-President Callejasas, Albert Jackson, Terry Zapata and one participant we will allow you to identify. ( see photo entitled “A FACE IN THE CROWD” ) This is the final clue to the mystery face in the crowd.

Tela’s a story

A fisherman reflects - Laguna de los Micos

By ALEX OGLE

Tela is seafront urban sprawl in slumber; a classic story of North American investment and subsequent abandonment, characteristic of other banana towns in the region. A large part of Tela was primarily created under the guiding of foreign corporations such as the United Fruit Company in the early twentieth century.

The town has been evidently affected by a social and economical vacuum since the US withdrew investment. Where some described Tela as sleepy, a number of Hondurans may go so far as to describe the community’s inhabitants as ‘lazy.’

The Tela beach conservation project conducted in association with the Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA) last week was a step in the right direction for local officials who hope to boost regional tourism.

Indeed, at the dozen or so well-established bars and restaurants along the beachfront there appears clear potential for increased investment in the area. But before larger resorts spring from the fringes of the palm lined bay, life in Tela remains relaxed, a perfect spot for budget travelers to chill on the Caribbean shores of Northern Honduras.

The slow pace of the place is apparent as bars close early and streets appear abandoned in the midday sun, and the wide streets and pseudo-Californian diners at crossroads on the town’s grid design reminds visitors of the area’s gringo past. West of the river, which drains into the sea, lies a grand hotel complex in the style of a picket-fenced American suburb originally built for employees of the Fruit Company.

The local beach lifestyle, removed from the modern hotels and commercial establishments, is typically laid-back for the Caribbean. In local bars, old ragged men sink a Port Royal at sunset, seemingly unmoved by the rousing 1980s ballads booming out to sea.

“Take my breath away…”; picture Top Gun playing in the background while sipping back a cerveza with Phil Collins and Sinead O´Connor for company as the sun dips past the warm horizon. Decrepit dogs gnaw on their backsides and scruff chickens bob about at the feet of drinkers, peaceful in the balmy breeze. From this perspective it is not hard to see why the Lonely Planet guide describes Tela as “many traveler’s’ favorite Honduran Caribbean beach town.”

The Garifuna influence of Tela is not as apparent as other urban centers along the coast, such as Livingstone, Guatemala. But the ubiquitous reggaeton beats chiming from many a window and the general vibe of the place reminds visitors this is still their territory.

A further look west of town reveals hidden treasures in the form of Garifuna villages and outposts, within easy reach through public buses from Tela. The impressive Laguna de los Micos and other more remote beaches further afield lie in wait for those willing to explore.

Compared to more established tourist towns in the area, such as La Ceiba, Tela does not suffer from such a distinct security problem.

One member of local police passionately downplayed the likelihood of any sort of incident, making it seem more likely to witness a child being hit over the head by a falling coconut than to be mugged on the beach.

In reality there is a history of assault and theft on Tela`s main beaches and further along in either direction, but there have not been recent reports of the Mara gangs, local groups of armed youths who may take an unreasonable fondness for another’s possessions.

Vanessa Merlo, a tourism official for the municipality, maintains that while police forces in the area are stretched, Tela remains a tranquil destination. Walking the sleepy streets at night or day it certainly seems improbable that anyone could be bothered enough to engage in a forceful mugging.

The threat does remain in the town and beaches, especially after dark, but simple common sense and vigilance is of course the simple key to avoiding trouble.

Nearby attractions, including the Lancetilla Botanical Gardens and aforementioned Garifuna villages, along with literally miles and miles of mostly unspoiled and noticeably cleaner coastline that stretches both ways from the central beach, remain Tela`s primary source of desirability for Western and Honduran visitors and investors alike.

 

Tela: Keep Your Beaches Clean

Kids and JICA volunteers clean the beaches of Tela

By JOHANNES KOCH

The beaches of Tela are rubbish ridden. But at seven am last Wednesday morning, one group of people sought to change this.

A loud Caribbean marching-band met with Japan International Cooperation Agency (JICA) volunteers and school children from Tela to knock some sense into local residents.

It was a wake up call for the people of Tela and education for the youngsters on beach cleanliness.

One hundred Japanese volunteers, celebrating 30 years of JICA, took 200 Honduran children by their hands to clean up the trash on the beaches of Tela.

They marched through the streets of Tela making a show of their objectives: “Not only people live on the beach,” and “keep our beaches clean” their banners proclaimed.

Local residents were impressed by the show. An elderly local commented that he was pleased “to see such motivation early in the morning,” and welcomed the activism despite exceptionally high noise levels at such an early hour.

“We want to clean the beaches because we also want to promote Japanese tourism and cleanliness is important in this regard,” the Director of JICA Honduras, Tatsuo Suzuki told HTW.

Mayor of Tela, Daniel Flores, also marched with the group. “The image of Honduras is important,” he said, adding the question, “if Hondurans can come here then why shouldn’t others?” He was talking about the perceived potential of Tela becoming a major tourist destination, if only the image could be improved.

The mayor participated in the march but did not join in to get his hand dirty picking up the trash. A media colleague said that in some ways “Hondurans feel embarrassed by being shown what do and how to do it.”

Attitudes towards garbage also play a large part in this inaction.

Tourism official for the Tela Municipality, Vanessa Merlo, said that “you don’t invite someone into your house unless it is clean, it is a cultural thing which needs to be tackled at a profound sociological level,” and this is why education and awareness, as displayed this week, are important to change this.

The consensus in Tela is that people want to improve their image.

The streets of Tela are arguable some of the cleanest. Flores prides himself on this achievement.

During Semana Santa, however, national tourists flock to Tela for the annual gathering and the beaches are left a dump. “It is the national tourists that create the mess not the foreign tourist,” Merlo points out.

Flores was very pleased that JICA volunteers would come to clean up during these and other times, but his frustration was apparent. “People can take cleaning into their own hands, resources need not be overstretched for something that people can do themselves,” he said.

Other problems continue to persist further down the coast from Tela. Garifuna populations have been entirely neglected by local government and are still using the ocean as a sewage dump.

They are unknowingly destroying miles of beautiful, untapped beaches to the south of Tela which could be revived and enjoyed.

All About Roatan

A guide to our police presence

It seems we have seven different Police specialist groups on Rotan. We asked several local residents as well as an equal number of foreign residents with an additional smattering of tourists just what they thought of each group. Believe it or not, even with such a small sampling of people, a definite consensus of opinion immediately formed.

THE TRAFFIC POLICE are clothed in snowflake with jump boots and baseball caps. They seem to hang out at roadblocks a lot and ask you to show them you drivers license and registration. Sometimes they will wave you through as if they are looking for a specific type of car or truck, and for purposes other than license checks. No one had a complaint about them except that they seem to wave their friends through and stop everyone else. They are polite and usually suggest that you wear your seat belt in the future.

THE PREVENTITIVE POLICE wear the same uniform and do a lot of street patrolling on foot. Several locals seemed to agree they, tend to be a little “rude” on occasion and do a lot of flexing and posturing. The tourists and Gringo set do not seem to encounter them at all.

THE TOURIST POLICE are the ones wearing the greenish golf shirts and are by far the group who get the highest score with locals and visitor alike. They seem always eager to help and are always polite. The only complaint is that they are not all that equipped to converse in English and may have to enlist the aid of a bi-lingual passer by, but they get the job done.

THE NATIONAL POLICE are again in camo. With the big guns and sometimes the really big guns. They also do a lot of foot patrolling and roll to crime scenes when needed. No one interviewed has had any experience with them directly, but they seem to be respected if not a little feared.

THE DGIC SQUAD ( pronounced DIK ) are undercover detectives so no one knows who they are or what they do or if they are even among us. One interviewee was the victim of a crime recently and said they seem to be well trained and serious about their job but grew tired of excuses as to their slowness in investigating a crime scene and in the capture of the perpetrators. They blame it on under-staffed and under-capitalized conditions.

PORT GUARD wear the dark blue uniforms and specialize in watching over the cruise ships and their passengers. Not a single complaint about them from the cruise ship tourists but no actual communications with them either. They seem to just be there in case.

THE MUNICIPAL POLICE wear the brown uniforms and stay within the boundaries of Coxen Hole. They are to keep the one-way traffic moving along the main street and from the entrance into the town. They are the ones who have to constantly whistle at the taxi drivers to keep them moving. They are also the ones who have the “cha-chas” those yellow metal handcuffs you find on your tire should you park in a no parking area. They also serve summons for the court and help quell domestic disturbances. They get a high rating as well from the locals polled.

Bottom line, we are blessed with a good crew but need to know more English according to locals and travelers. Now to really confuse you, in some exercises you will find a mix of tourist police, Preventative Police and National Police and the guy waling next to them is probably a DGIC.

D & D Brewery: a rare weekend retreat

By JOHANNES KOCH

Amid lake Yojoa’s lush forests, Mayan ruins, waterfalls, hot springs and caves there is a liquid goldmine of amber ale: D & D Brewery - a retreat for travelers who enjoy alternative water-based potables.

Tucked away in a nook, you are going to find a recluse - a quiet relaxing sanctuary where you can lie in hammocks in the shade of the forest, wake up to the smell of freshly ground coffee and sip exotic homebrewed ales.

The weary traveler can try the Lenca Gold Pale Ale, the Heart of the Lake Amber Ale, the Obsidian of Yojoa Porter or the Apricot, Mango or Raspberry flavored ales from Honduras’ first microbrewery, D & D Brewery.

The brewery is run and owned by Robert Dale. His forefathers ran microbrewers in Oregon and he decided to take a piece of home and plant it in right in the heart of Honduras.

Robert, locally known as Bob, is a man of many trades. Since opening 4 years ago, his avocado trees, coffee plants and banana trees offer guests a rare seasonal treat. Buy some fresh banana bread, drink his fresh coffee – why even smoke a hand-rolled cigar and then take a boat trip on the lake, stroll to the ruins and wash your face in the river. Or, just get lost in the local coffee and banana plantations.

Bob treats every single guest like a friend. He will offer to show you around his lot, pointing out some of the rare Orchards he is cultivating or tell you about his goldmines.

Staying at the D & D Brewery is truly an alternative experience. The guest books are testimony of just how enjoyable many a time traveler has had.

My observation: the hospitality and serenity of the location make this place ideal for couples who are looking to spend some quality time together.

Getting there: Take a taxi from Peña Blanca towards Mochito for 5 Lempira. Keep an eye out for the D & D Brewery sign after the football field on your right. If you are feeling adventurous you can hitch a ride on the back of a pick-up with some locals.

Accommodation: All rooms are standard two-bed rooms for 200 Lempira (100 per person) fitted with shower, sink, toilet and fan. You’ll be surprised to find that the tap water is purified so, you can drink it.

Food & Beverages: The food is very affordable, ranging from 15 Lempira to 70 Lempira. The Tilapia fish (local to Lake Yojoa) is a good and tasty bargain. Ales cost 22 Lempira. All service charges included.

Contact: Tel: (504) 994-9719 or email: dndbrew@yahoo.com

 

Copan Update By HOWARD ROSENZWEIG

Good news for a change, if one plans on flying the friendly skies of Central America in the not too distant future. According to the Wall Street Journal, the Mexican broadcasting powerhouse, Grupo Televisa, and Sinca Inbursa, will launch a new discount airline in a joint effort with Salvadoran based TACA Airlines, that will commence operations in 2006. Televisa and Inbursa will have a 25 percent share each in the airline. Both enterprises are linked to the Mexican billionaire Carlos Slim, who is the richest man in Latin America.

In order to simplify transactions, business owners in Honduras have asked the Honduran Central Bank to print a 1,000 Lempira note, which at the present exchange rate is equal to $53. Currently the largest bill in the Honduran banknote arsenal is the 500 Lempira note, which is now worth $26. So far, Honduras has already eliminated the one and two centavo coins due to their lack of use.

Salvadoran tourists will be arriving to Honduras shortly for their yearly August vacation period which this year falls from Aug 1 - 6. For Salvadorans, the August public holiday, which celebrates the patron saint of San Salvador, is like Christmas, Memorial Day Weekend and Thanksgiving all rolled up into one. It is a occasion to pack up the extended family into anything with 4 wheels and engage in a bit of regional, Central American-style tourism. In recent years, Honduras has been increasingly able to cater for the Salvadoran penchant for traveling during this period.

El Salvador is a small, extremely densely populated country with a growing middle class and plenty of discretionary cash on hand, in the form of billions of dollars in funds wired back by hundreds of thousands of Salvadorans each year from the US.

Salvadorans are looking for nearby options for travel, and Honduras with its world class Ruins, Reef and Rainforest fits the bill nicely. Honduras is sparsely populated, cheap and adjacent, as well as in its infant stages in terms of professionally marketing and promotion as a vacation destination in the Salvadoran market. I have always stated in this column that El Salvador could potentially be the goose that laid the golden egg for the Honduran tourism sector. Millions of Salvadorans want to escape and its Honduras job to make it easy, safe and fun for all those Salvadoran tourists. Up to now Honduras has taken only some very tentative steps at marketing itself as a holiday destination in Central American regional markets. Hopefully the Ministry of Tourism and the private sector will step up to the plate with a more robust posture and really spend the bucks required to professionally market Honduran tourism in El Salvador. Being swamped by Salvadorans once a year in August is great, but imagine if that in-flow of free spending tourists were to increase and spread out throughout the year – now that would really be a feather in the cap of the Honduran Ministry of Tourism!

As for more air travel updates, Copan Airlines based in Panama has been voted for the second consecutive year as the best airline in Central America, Mexico and the Caribbean. In addition, the cabin staff has been voted the finest too.

Ever wondered where all those bucks for big consumer durables such as fridges, stoves and cars come from in a country as underprivileged as Honduras? Well look no further than the riches sent back to Honduras by family members living in the US. This year, remittances or “remesas”, as these funds are called here, are forecasted to hit $1.5 billion, that is billion, folks. In 2004, Honduras received $1.1 billion, and Central America as a whole received $7.1 billion. The 2005 figure is expected to double the amount sent in 2002. One of the positive spin-off effects of all this is that Honduran foreign reserves have increased by $170 million this year. It is estimated that there are 105,000 households in Honduras which directly benefit from remittances, which translates to some four million Hondurans out of a total population of seven million who are directly or indirectly touched by these funds.

Even more interesting is the fact that a startling 37,000 families who are classified as “extremely poor” receive funds from abroad. But who are all these hard-working Hondurans in the US who are sending all that hard-earned money back to family members? It is estimated that there are some 1 million Hondurans divided between legal and illegal residents residing in the US. In recent years an increasing outflow of young Hondurans, who risk it all to make it to the US by crossing illegally, have swelled the numbers of Hondurans in the US. They have made “remesas” the number one money earner for the country, replacing such staples as coffee and bananas (which together only generate $450 million). The number two source of income is Honduras’ biggest homegrown industry - the maquila sector - which brings in some $1 billion. In third place is tourism worth approximately $500 million.

Copan Update

Guatemala based Tikal Jets which initiated air service between San Pedro Sula, Managua and Guatemala City has pulled out of Honduras. Seems that they just weren’t drawing enough passenger traffic to make the routes feasible. Unfortunately for Honduras airfares have historically been very high which has had the end effect of turning off potential tourists. In recent months Iberia also pulled out of Honduras so now connections for Iberian flights must be made with TACA for those passengers wishing to fly Iberia to Europe. The big three international airlines serving Honduras are Continental, American and TACA which together pretty much have the market tied up in a nice red ribbon basket. There are a number of small domestic carriers ( Atlantic, SOSA and Isleña ) which run a series of puddle jumper flights between Honduras main domestic destinations; San Pedro Sula, Tegucigalpa, La Ceiba, Roatan and La Mosquitia. A couple of these carriers also have international flights to Gran Cayman.

A policy of open skies had been initiated by the Honduran government a couple of years back with the intention to open up air traffic to new airlines which in turn would cause fares to drop as more competition entered the marketplace. Thus far no new major international airlines have come in and fares are still typically above the rest of Central America. If Honduran tourism is to truly flourish it is essential that additional competition be brought into the market and fares become more competitive. When one can fly from NYC - Argentina for the same price as a ticket to San Pedro Sula then something isn’t quite right and we will never get the kinds of incoming tourism numbers that we would like to see.

According to the Honduran Institute of Tourism, Honduras took in $410 million in 2004 as a result of international tourism. In the past three years Honduras has seen tourist visits grow by 14% - 24% annually. In 2004 tourist visits soared 19% and a record 1 million visitors arrived in the country. For 2005, Honduras is looking at an estimated $450 in tourism revenues.

Besides sky high airfares, another factor which is not often touched on which may be limiting tourism not only to Honduras but around the world as well is the poor showing of US consumers in terms of personal savings. Simply put, American are not saving money, thus they have little put away for rainy days and sunny Caribbean vacations since most Americans are so reluctant or incapable of saving. Personal savings rates are now the lowest they’ve been since the Federal Reserve started tracking this data in 1946.

Consumer debt has reached a high of $2.1 trillion... that’s trillion folks... (And that doesn’t include mortgages). Apparently Americans are not taking good old Ben Franklins advice to heart… Franklin wisely stated in 1757 that ... It’s better to go to bed without eating than wake up with debts. Family debt in the US has soared 80% in recent years and many consumers depend on credit cards to get them through the month. The average household with at least one credit card had at least $9,205 in debt in 2003.

Now how does tourism segue into this argument you may ask... well if most US families are barely making it through the month, and most families are in debt up their eyeballs and most Americans have an anorexic, anemic savings account... then my friend how can they think about a two week ruins, reef and rainforest vacation to an exotic locale like Honduras, Costa Rica or Belize? Sure they can charge the trip ... and fret about paying for it at some future time ... but is that really anyway to live... or to travel? But wouldn’t it be better ... financially healthier and cheaper in the long run to save a bit of money from month to month in order to sock away a few bucks for that yearly vacation or other discretionary expense? The predominant philosophy of buy now... pay later... does drive consumer spending, which as every Freshman who has taken Economics 101 knows is what drives the booming, bemouth US economy forward. But at some point Americans need to take a lesson from some of the other developed countries (which have a more ingrained culture of thrift and savings) in the world such as the Europeans who manage somehow to have fun, buy cool stuff, take awesome vacations to exotic locales around the world ... and still manage somehow to sock away a few Euros each month into a savings account.
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Lots of new infrastructure on the way for Copan Ruinas... the Maya Sculpture Museum is getting a brand spanking new roof, the Visitors Center will get a complete makeover as well as the parking area and cafeteria. A bit down the road a ways, the El Puente archeological site will receive improving to make it more visitor friendly and tourism ready and in Rio Amarillo about a 1/2 hour from Copan, a new airport will rise from the cow pastures and form the air hub of the nation’s newest modern airport. The town of Copan Ruinas will also see improvements, the old Fort will be rebuilt and restored and the town will have its very own comprehensive, downtown historic center preservation project ... which hopefully will get under way soon, as protection is desperately needed ASAP on key downtown streets.