TRAVEL & TOURISM

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Beautifully appointed suites with high-bandwidth internet access with wireless network, computer desk, safe, 3 direct-dial telephones, bar and kitchenette with fully stocked pantry. 

George Reynolds
Honduras this Week

Emma Barlow/Honduras This Week
Instead of going to the beach, why not visit Lake Yojoa and Pulhapanzak falls?

In the devotedly Catholic Central American region, it is not hard to avoid the religious significance of Semana Santa. In Honduras, even the lowliest village has its own procession and holds its own celebrations, and citizens are given time off to enjoy the festivities with their families.

Less, however, is made of the economic impact of Easter Week. Even though large swathes of the private and public sectors are on holiday, it is a time of year when companies - particularly those involved in the tourism and hospitality industries - can see their profits rise dramatically. Calculations vary, but some estimate that this year, well over $90 million US will be raised. Others work on the assumption that Holy Week will raise close to $10 per tourist per day. Of course, this may be excessive - both estimates work on the assumption that employees will be given the whole week off to spend - but it is certain that as money-spinners go, you do not get much more significant in Honduras.

The sun sets on Roatan. Parrots caw, waves sigh on the shore, ice chinks in your rum punch. The sun sets on Boulevard Morazan. Car horns honk, dust and smog fill the air, and the only thing chinking is your brake lights as a car bumps you from behind. To most people, the choice of destination is a no-brainer, and indeed in the past the tourists and wealthy Hondurans have voted with their feet, transforming the Bay Islands and La Ceiba into hotspots, and the rest of the country into ghost towns.

If the Tourism Institute has its way, however, 2006 will see a different spin placed on the festivities. At first glance, it is curious, to say the least. But the very factors that make Semana Santa ideal for visiting the beaches and islands to the north of the country - the climate is perfect; it is the only time of year when both children and parents are totally free - also make it ideal for finding out what the rest of the country has to offer.

Cesar Cáceres, who works at the Honduran Tourism Institute, is determined that this year, all of Honduras benefits from Easter, and, furthermore, he is confident that his plan will work. He does have a point: traditionally the mentality has been "Bay Islands or nothing" - if hotels are overbooked in Roatan, Utila, or La Ceiba, then people will dismiss Honduras out of hand as a destination. But there are plenty of hotels in the rest of the country, and there is also plenty to do.

Emma Barlow/Honduras This Week
The Honduran Tourism Institute has launched a campaign to steer national tourists to less visited tourist destinations such as La Esperanza.

After all, not everybody wants to go to the beach. Visitors can enjoy adventure holidays, visit ecological zones of interest, and explore the diverse rural villages and towns that fill the wide open spaces outside the big cities. Practically nobody goes to the south or west of the country; The Zamorana valley and areas surrounding Olancho and Esperanza receive only a handful of visitors every year.

The Tourism Institute is pushing this new initiative hard. There is advertising about the major tourist routes in the newspapers, and hotels are being encouraged to offer special deals to ensure more guests. This makes good sense: 1.3 million Hondurans are expected to be on the move, and over 80,000 tourists (mostly Guatemalan and Salvadorian) are expected to join them. The Bay Islands and all the resorts on the Caribbean coast can only hold so many people - some would already argue that they have reached capacity.

So, in future, when you're looking to book tickets on those overcrowded flights to Roatan, take a minute to think what else you could be doing with your time. You could be climbing Mayan ruins in Copán; making your own Heart of Darkness-style journey into the depths of the wild and lush Mosquitia region; sampling hand-made leather in Valle de Angeles, or taking part in Tegucigalpa's large-scale Easter celebrations. Cesar Cáceres recognises that there's a lot of country out there - go see it.

Semana Santa in Copan - Processions and salsa dance

Anna Smith
Special to Honduras This Week

Anna Smith/Honduras This Week
The winding cobblestone streets of Copan Ruinas are always a welcoming haven for visitors.

The winding cobblestone streets of Copan Ruinas are always a welcoming haven for visitors, and the variety of diversions planned for Semana Santa will entice locals and visitors alike.
A number of religious processions and events will take place during the entire holy week, culminating with the procession on Good Friday around the town square. There will also be a number of alfombras created throughout town, the colorful street carpets painstakingly created to depict religious Easter scenes.

The vibrant new artisans' market will be celebrating its grand opening Saturday April 8th with an all- day celebration of food, live music and of course a wide array of handmade craft items from Honduras and Guatemala.

Local musician Oscar Polio, best known for his weekend concerts in the centre square, will be playing at the grand opening from 3pm to 9pm. His lively mix of traditional Andean music and contemporary classics, played on the queña and sampoña, always draw an appreciative crowd.

When not filling the air with his haunting melodies, El Salvadoran native Polio performs Holistic Therapy and Massage in his studio in the Hotel Herradura. Continuing the healing of body and mind in Copan, Leah Glatz offers stimulating Kripalu Yoga classes in the most stunning settings in town. Classes are at the Casa Santa Marta Tuesdays and Fridays at 4: 30, and at the Hacienda San Lucas for Sunday brunch, both venues offer breathtaking views of the valley below. Call 651-3779 to make an appointment for massages or for more information on yoga sessions.

Also at the Hotel Herradura, a swinging new salsa night is the place to be every Thursday night in Copan, with free entry to the dance floor on the rooftop patio.

Anna Smith/Honduras This Week
Oscar Polio playing the sampoñas at the ruins of Copan.

Friday and Saturday of Easter weekend will also find a traditional Garifuna dance troupe performing at the Herradura both nights.

The Camino Maya hotel will offer traditional dance demonstrations throughout the week at Las Piscinas, its expansive lush outdoor location with poolside restaurant and bar. Las Piscinas will be showcasing a variety of live music and special events for the weekends, with the ever popular karaoke and disco downstairs at night.

The road leading to restaurants Via Via and Tunkul will be cordoned off for Semana Santa for a week -long street fiesta. The line-up of street performers and musicians promises to provide entertainment for patrons of Via Via and Tunkul as they enjoy choice culinary selections on the street -side patios at both restaurants. Tunkul has live music planned inside for Saturday night and Via Via continues to pack their establishment with Sunday afternoon Oscar -winner movie showings.

Just around the corner, Boni's pizza offers traditional Honduran pizza, with a wide selection of toppings and wonderful service. Special for Semana Santa, Boni's Pizza will have a fresh pizza stand set up for all those who will be swimming and relaxing down at the river.

For more upscale dinning, Twisted Tanya's has some of the best views coupled with the most gracious service and spectacular food in Copan, and is a prerequisite for the full Copan experience.

Enjoying a breakfast of rich coffee and a variety of omelets, fruit and fresh bread on the terrace at the Casa de Café overlooking the lush valley below is another experience that all visiting Copan Ruinas should enjoy, especially if one has been fortunate enough to stay in one of the well-appointed rooms for the night.

The Casa de Todos also offers tasty food amidst a great garden area for lounging and reading a book from their large selection. Every Saturday the Arte Accion crew provides the children of Copan a fun-filled experience of hands-on art activities, the free session offered for all children every Saturday afternoon at 2pm, including the weekends of Semana Santa.

The Macau Mountain Bird Sanctuary not only has an unforgettable selection of native birds that have been rescued from harmful situations, but it also has a unique restaurant and café on the premises. Set in one of the most dramatic swathes of forest in the area, the café overlooks the river and vine -covered forest and is a restful location to enjoy mountain grown coffee and wonderful pastries. The restaurant has a wide selection of entrees, and lunch on the bridge overlooking the river below will surely be a welcome respite from the whirl of festivities in the centre of town this Semana Santa.

The real translation of Semana Santa

Don Pearly
Honduras This Week

Don Pearly/Honduras This Week
Miles of beautiful beaches awaiting Semana Santa visitors.

To all of Central America, Semana Santa means The Holy Week, but to the individuals of the Bay Island area it means fun in the sun and a big fat change of pace.

Imagine yourself working 51 weeks of the year in a busy metropolis such as San Pedro Sula or Tegucigalpa. Picture yourself going to and from work on over-crowded transit systems, fighting traffic on jammed highways, battling smoke and noise as a part of your everyday life. Taxi cabs honk day and night; you stand in lines for food, at the bank, or even just to buy gasoline. Throw in the crime issue, and you are ready to get away from it all for a week.

Then, if you will, picture yourself lounging about on a white sandy beach, with fresh ocean breezes neutralizing the intense hot tropical sunshine. Imagine taking a few steps and diving into the Caribbean waters for a refreshing swim then returning to finish your ice-cold rum and coke or local beer. That is Semana Santa on Roatan. Miles of beaches, music filling the air, and great hospitality everywhere you go. The banks are closed, so no worries there because even that nasty old debt servicing problem takes a holiday too.

Take in the same attractions the cruise ship passengers enjoy week after week such as the Lagoon at Parrot Tree, the Gumbo Limbo Pirate Park, the canopy rides, the swimming and snorkeling, the SCUBA diving at the multitude dive shops on West End or at Fantasy Island Resort or Coco view. Imagine watching the world famous porpoise show at A.K.R., or even diving with and touching the wonderful creatures.

To the inhabitants of the island it means an entirely different thing. It means hosting a multitude of visitors, providing them with the best service you have to offer, and trying to entertain friends and relatives who just happened to drop by. It is a real juggling act for some because as business people they must make hay while the sun shines but they also want to spend time with loved ones.

To the transportation industry it means no rest for the wicked. Every taxi, every mini bus, every big bus will be used to the maximum. Special events all over the island will require this entire group to keep a full tank of fuel and a clear head ready for driving, even at night.

To the police it is a time of great responsibility. It means long hours and the possibility of having to solve domestic problems by the dozen. It is surely not a time of rest for our police and military personal, but they always rise to the occasion and also enjoy a bit of overtime.

To our construction industry it means taking a much-needed break. No one can keep a crew focused during the last few days of Semana Santa so they let their employees go free. They all receive extra pay as the labor commission requires, and a break from the everyday work schedule.

For the food and beverage industry it means: this is what we practice and pray for the other days of the year. A chance to show off our finest food for both tourists and locals so they will want to come back at a less busy time.

For the entertainment industry it means extra gigs. Resorts and restaurants hire Mariachis and other musicians to entertain their guests both day and night. No one who can play a floogle horn is out of work. Fire dancers and Griffin people are hired to entertain.

For the hotel industry, a no-brainer - NO VACANCY, NO-HOW. How tough is that to take? Everyone is wishing they had expanded during the year to take on more and more guests.

Semana Santa means private people renting out their own homes to accommodate still more visitors; people opening their private homes to house stranded travelers. On some occasions schools or churches are opened up for back-packers. It is a time for sharing and counting our blessings - should we find the time to do so.

This is the practical meaning of Semana Santa, but let us not forget the literal translation of Holy Week and give thanks for all that we have. Happy Easter to all.

Roatan Bruce Interviews

30 year lease of the port of Roatan signed

Bruce Starr
Royal Caribbean Cruise will actively participate in the development of the cruise port facility.

Many of the top dignitaries, business and community leaders again gathered at Coral Cay in Dixon Cove to welcome President Mel Zelaya and John Tercek, a Vice President of Royal Caribbean Cruises, to witness the signing over of the Port of Roatan for thirty years. This agreement marks the dawn of new times for Roatan and The Bay Islands.

I asked Mr. Tercek what this agreement means to Royal Caribbean Cruises.

John Tercek: This signing means we will be able to actively participate in the development and the improvement of the cruise port facility. As part of that, we will be involved with the ongoing operations of the port as well as a broad plan of redevelopment of the infrastructure. Royal Caribbean historically has been a small user of Roatan port, in part because of the deficiency of the infrastructure. We felt we could not deliver the experience that our guests are looking for. We think over the next year or two, we will be making a variety of improvements that will raise the standard of the port that our guests expect. As a result, you will see many more Royal Caribbean ships visiting the port in the future.

Roatan Bruce: Tell us about what we can expect over the next year. What will people see happening at and around the dock area?

John Tercek: The reality is, in the next year, the changes will be fairly limited. We will have to do a lot of the technical analysis at the site. So the very first part of the endeavor will not be very visible as the technical and engineering analysis is carried out; this will take some months.

The first phases will also be to design a master plan. The second will be implementing the expansion of the landfill. As you are aware, there is very little room to even park the buses today. So the first thing we will do is improve the staging area for the buses. The second phase will also be to create a tourist village. Our plan is to make it open, accessible and designed in a way that with proper security measures, it will be available not only for our guests, but for locales here on the island. We hope to build a very nice waterfront touristic mixed use development there.

The third and longer term phase will be to build a second cruise dock. A lot will have to do with the government as to how and when that will happen. I figure the entire project is a three to four year undertaking at an investment of 18 to 20 million dollars.

Roatan Bruce: Just to make sure there is no misunderstanding, is there going to be a displacement of the stores and shops that are already here?

John Tercek: No, not at all. In fact, what we are hoping and we have seen this in many other ports as well, as the cruise line starts to make a major commitment, that the local property owners will grow and feel more confident about making a reinvestments in their own properties and thus improving not only the appearance, but the overall level of service and product experience that our guests desire. We don't see any displacement at all.

Essentially, a new company was formed by the I H T and the Royal Caribbean is a shareholder in this new company. This will be a thirty year operational agreement. As of today, the legal operations of the port are now handed over to Royal Caribbean.

Bruce Starr is the host of The Roatan Bruce Show heard weekdays from 11am to 2 pm across the Bay Islands and Northern Honduras on Magic 107.7 FM.

Please visit his website at roatanbruce.com or contact him with comments, story or interview ideas at roatanbruce@yahoo.com.

Hotel Review: El Cortijo del Lago

Don Peat
Honduras This Week

Don Peat/Honduras This Week
Beautiful Lake Yojoa with the mountains in the background.

Anyone driving along the highway from Tegucigalpa to San Pedro Sula will have seen Lake Yojoa, Honduras' largest freshwater body of water located near Siguatepeque. Few, however, will have stayed there. One American expatriate hopes to help change that.

John Chater owns El Cortijo del Lago, a small hotel nestled away from the highway and on the edge of the lake. Chater and his wife Martha began focusing their efforts on developing the resort two years ago after he retired from Partners of the Americas. Now the 20-guest hotel and restaurant receives their full attention.

"It's a low key place where people can come, relax, and enjoy the lake," explained Chater.

The 14,000-acre lake is literally the biggest attraction. Local streams and rivers that flow down from the surrounding mountains feed the lake. Every view offers a breathtaking mixture of blue water and green forest.

Whether you stand on shore or venture onto the lake by boat you are bound to see evidence of the vibrant ecosystem.

The lake is home to 15 fish species, 21 mammal species, 73 plant species, 235 amphibian species, and 337 bird species.
Fishing, bird watching, hiking, or just relaxing amidst nature are all activities you can enjoy while visiting El Cortijo del Lago. Visitors can also explore nearby archaeological sites, cloud forests, and waterfalls. It is the diversity of activity that Chater thinks attracts not only individual tourists but also groups.

One of the most delightful aspects of the lodge is found in the kitchen where Martha Chater cooks up delicious meals, a mixture of typical Honduran food and modern favorites, using the freshest ingredients. The smell of homemade bread is a daily delight around the hotel.

A dining room offers a great view of the lake and an antique wood-burning stove that John brought with him from Vermont helps keep things warm should the night air become too chilly.
The lodge also offers a variety of sleeping quarters, accommodating groups of all sizes. Hot, running water in the bathrooms, a must for many travellers, ensures the vacation will be an enjoyable one right down to the details.

Without question, El Cortijo del Lago offers a pleasant experience for the traveller that wants to see the Honduran interior and the ecological majesty of Lake Yojoa.

THE BIG GUNS ARE HERE

In a personal interview with the Vice President of Royal Caribbean International and the President of Puerto De Cruceros y Marina De La Isles De La Bahia, S.A., HTW learned the following:

The Royal Caribbean lines have officially won the contract offered by the island of Roatan, and the country of Honduras. This means they will be spending $ 17 million U.S. on our island over the next few years. With the contract signed by President Zelaya, Mayor Dale Jackson, and several other high officials, Royal Caribbean International will begin the intensive planning for the mooring of three cruise ships at any one time, and for a prominent shopping center on the mainland of the island - a place to park and a place for the tourists to stretch their legs and find out how wonderful Roatan really is. Historically a pleasant experience as a visitor will result in the guests returning for more of the same, which will hopefully lead to more investors and retirees.

Mr. Tercek stated that to date, Roatan had not been a very prominent destination for his ships, but rather a last-minute destination when everywhere else was too busy. Now that they are the prominent organization on Roatan, they will begin setting schedules making our island into one of their prime cruise destinations, giving it all the marketing available and making it a prominent tour. This could take up to two or three years to get completely established, but once it is done, we will be in fine shape.

We gathered that Royal Caribbean, being experienced at this type of venture, will be taking every precaution possible to ensure that the island will not deteriorate under the heavy traffic, but rather will flourish with its new-found popularity. Great care will be taken to maintain the delicate ecological balance our island will require. Best of luck to you, Royal Caribbean International, and again: welcome to Roatan, the jewel of Honduras.

GETTING READY

Semana Santa is upon us and we are ready for it. Businesses have stocked up on supplies and it seems every last bed is spoken for. The island will be receiving guests from San Pedro Sula, Tegucigalpa, Utila, Guanaja, Guatemala, San Salvador, Mexico, the United States, Europe and many other places, according to several tour operators. It happens every year and this one is no exception; everyone wants to be on Roatan to enjoy our hospitality and wonderful beaches. Water sports and fine food - what more could you ask for on this special holiday?

THAT REGISTRO PROBLEM

HTW has been informed that a representative from Tegucigalpa came to Roatan and removed the staff at the recording office. This puts to rest the on-and-off reports of great dissatisfaction with the old staff's performance. We hope that the new staff will work hard to reach the standards this office requires to keep development moving forward.

Press Release: Infinity Bay Spa & Beach Resort

GROUND BREAKING CEREMONY

A Ground-Breaking Ceremony on West Bay Beach, Roatan, Honduras, will mark the beginning of the construction of condominium resort Infinity Bay Spa & Beach Resort on Monday April 10th at 5 p.m. The Mayor of Roatan, Dale Jackson, will inaugurate the project and Honduran Minister of Tourism Ricardo Martinez, Members of Congress and Roatan community leaders will also attend.

ENVIRONMENTAL PLAN

Infinity Bay Spa & Beach Resort is an innovative development, not only promising an investment opportunity out of the ordinary but also dedicating itself to protecting Roatan's fragile island environment.

A Bay Island Waste-Water Foundation will be set up to help locals with their septic problems. The project will also bring new technologies to Roatan, showing people how to properly handle sewage and increase the quality of ground water.

As part of an extensive environmental plan, Infinity Bay will be the first Roatan resort with its own desalination plant which will supply the villas with sweet water. This has two advantages: guests won't need to worry about buying drinking water and the island's overexploited ground water will be protected. The plan also includes foliage on the roofs to lessen the need for air-conditioning and 30 sediment traps which will cleanse runoff water from the property from red clay and other potentially damaging particles.

COMMUNITY BENEFITS

The project is expected to create 200 jobs on the island during the construction phase and 150 people will be employed by the resort.

INVESTMENT OPPORTUNITY

The finished Infinity Bay Spa & Beach Resort will bring you both the privacy and comfort of your own villa and all the facilities and services of a five-star resort. The development will include 110 luxuriously furnished villas, all with air-conditioning, gorgeous tiled floors, stainless steel appliances, fully-equipped kitchens, wireless internet service, satellite TV and verandas with fabulous ocean views.

“The construction will consist of the highest quality standards - we are not holding back on anything,” said Vernon Albert, project coordinator and one of four investors behind the development. Not only does he promise owners the pleasure of a vacation villa in the Caribbean, but a favorable return potential.

“We can ensure a good solid investment,” said Albert. Prices start at only $ 249,000 for a one-bedroom villa and the price per square feet is about half that of property in, for example, the Cayman Islands. If they chose to, owners can also make money by renting their villas when they are not using them as part of the Infinity Bay rental group. High occupancy rates are expected.

Fifty villas will be completed in a very timely manner. “We are building at a very fast pace to ensure total customer satisfaction,” said Albert.

For living proof of how quickly and accurately they work, Albert invites those interested to check out their other resort development, Coral Vistas, currently under construction in Half Moon Bay, West End Village, Roatan. (www.coralvistas.com)

For more information contact us at www.infinitybayroatan.com
or at telephones (504) 403-8076 /77 /78
Fax (504) 403-8076
In the U.S. (541) 359-1229

The approaching Easter Week vacation may not be the best time of the year to visit Utila owing to crowds of holiday travelers. Your best bet would be to wait till after Easter, when the island will return to its laid-back, easy-going state. For the uninitiated, the island of Utila, which is only 13km long and 5 km wide, is located 29km from La Ceiba. The island is totally flat save Pumpkin Hill, and just about all of the population lives in the one town on the island.

Travel to Utila is a snap. The Utila Princess is a ferry that travels between Utila and La Ceiba twice a day. The ferry departs La Ceiba at 9:30am and 4pm. Depending on how rough the ocean is, the trips can be as calm as a ride in a BMW, or as rough and tumble as a roller coaster. The one-way fare is a downright bargain. Your other option is to fly, on either Sosa or Atlantic Air from La Ceiba to Utila. Atlantic, for example, has 3 flights per day.

So let's say you decide to head to Utila and you've hopped a puddle jumper flight or boarded the ferry - what to do once you arrive on Utila? First thing you notice upon arrival is the distinct lack of cars, trucks and taxis; in fact there are not even formal roads on the island. The main path through town is more like a glorified sidewalk than a street built to accommodate vehicular traffic. Most islanders get around by bicycle or walking and there are motorbikes and ATVs as well as the occasional car and pickup truck.

Setting out from the pier, one cannot help be struck by how laid back and chilled out the island is: here everything runs on island time and everything moves to a slower, Caribbean-infused beat. The Island used to be part of Britain way back when, and occasionally a Union Jack can be seen flying defiantly. Islanders speak a heavily- inflected English that is a joy to try to decipher and gets easier to understand, especially after multiple bottles of cold Honduran beer and a few days to acclimatize oneself.

Your first task will be to find a hotel room and Utila specializes in simple, budget accommodation that won't break one's budget. On my last trip just two weeks ago we stayed at the Colibri Hill Resort. A double with fan and private hot water bath will set you back $29. It is quite new and has a lovely garden and a swimming pool. The Jade Seahorse is another option for those adventurous souls seeking something a bit more exotic and funky. The Seahorse is the creation of US artist Neil and he has taken a nondescript corner of Utila and turned it into his vision of the coolest, hippest, most arty hotel this side of anyplace.

The 6 cabins, each with its own particular theme, are surrounded and linked by a series of raised walkways, bridges, tunnels, etc., all decked out in a funky over-the-top manner which is a virtual feast for the senses. I've never seen anything quite like it in all my years of Central American travel, so take my word for it - it's unique.

Another hotel which is an old favorite of mine is Bayview Hotel and at $16 for a cold shower and $18 for hot water, the price can't be beaten. And it's right on the water.

Now that you've got a place to lay your head for the night, what do you say we get some chow? Tops on my list are RJs for BBQ and Island Cafe. Both serve up some of the best and cheapest seafood in town. In order to hit RJs you must time your visit just right as it is only open 3 nights per week (Wednesday, Friday and Sunday); but believe me it's worth it. Huge, heaped plates of fish, grilled on an open air BBQ, will set you back Lps 85. The night we were there, they had wahoo and barracuda, grilled and great. RJs fills up, so get there early. No closing time here: they serve till all the food is gone!

Another favorite of mine is Island Cafe which is located just over the water in front of Coco Loco Bar. Island Cafe is famous for fresh seafood and huge portions. With prices that range from Lps 75 - 85 you can't help but feel like you're getting your money's worth.
As Roatan continues its breakneck race towards high-end development and Guanaja remains mired in neglect, Utila is turning out to be the numero uno choice for those seeking the real Caribbean island experience, Honduran style. Enjoy - and have a great Easter.

“In the mountains, there you feel free”

George Reynolds
Honduras This Week

Javier Maradiaga
Sendero la mina is one of seven trails found in La Tigra. 

It is hard to imagine, when you are choking on thick Tegucigalpan dust and you have just passed your fifth Burger King in as many kilometres, that just over an hour away (if you are lucky with the transport), there lies a mountain paradise where orchids battle ferns for supremacy of the fog-cloaked pathways, and over 200 species of bird make a tranquil home. Including the so-called ‘Buffer Zone’, the La Tigra National Park covers over 400 square kilometres, with a lush nucleus spreading over 76 of them. The park spreads through the Valle de Angeles, Santa Lucia, San Juan de Flores and Central District municipalities, all of them housed in the Francisco Morazan department.

Historically a source of lumber for the burgeoning silver industry, the area suffered from deforestation for decades until plans were made during the seventies to rescue and preserve what was a fundamental part of Honduran heritage. In 1980, La Tigra was officially declared a National Park - the first in the country. Now, it is thriving, and merits at least one day out of a tourist’s schedule - a long weekend there is even an attractive possibility.

Two routes lead up to it from the city - the more direct El Hatillo route, which takes you to the park’s main entrance and offers you stunning views of the city and its surroundings. The alternative is to travel up via the old Real de Minas de Tegucigalpa road, which takes longer and does not lead you to the entrance proper, but allows you to stop off at any one of the picturesque towns en route - Valle de Angeles (worth a day trip on its own), Santa Lucia, and the small but diverting San Juancito.

The park boasts two visitors’ centres, both open from 8 to 2 from Tuesday to Sunday. The park closes officially at 5, so unless you are planning to stay the night, it is best to get there before lunch-time. At the centres, you can buy tickets to the park, buy posters and souvenirs and obtain park information. The El Rosario visitors’ centre, once the headquarters of the El Rosario Mining Company (the biggest in Honduras), was restored with the aid of the Honduran Institute of Tourism, and has within it the El Rosario Eco Lodge, which offers 8 rooms, a small restaurant, parking and a conference room with seating for 60.

Both centres also have their own guides whom you can hire to help show you round the seven different trails found within the park. These guides are members of the local community who have been given the opportunity to share their expertise, and get paid for it. Depending on the routes you take and the time you spend in awestruck contemplation of attractions such as the 40ft waterfall found at the end of the La Cascada trail, you could easily spend all day here. Unless you have your own car, finding a way up to the park can be a little tricky: buses run sporadically and sometimes not at all - it may be worth having the number of the eco-lodge or one of the handful of other Bed and Breakfasts in the hills on you, just in case you end up spending longer up there than planned. However long you do spend in La Tigra, though, it will not be time wasted.

Picturesque mining town on the edge of La Tigra

Emma Barlow
Honduras This Week

Nestled amongst the beautiful mountains on the edge of La Tigra National Park, San Juancito is a picturesque traditional town, and is well worth a small diversion from the usual tourist traps.

The town has experienced a shaky history: after the withdrawal of the Rosario Mining Company in 1954 the town was left bankrupt and full of citizens who had relied on the mining industry for work.

However, their luck turned when artist Regina Aguilar arrived in 1992, setting up the San Juancito Foundation. She began to provide hands-on training in iron and metalwork, carpentry, mosaic-making, and ceramics, helping to create products which could be sold, thus giving the ex-miners a new way to make a living.

The craftware can be found at the store in San Juancito itself, called El Bus Fantasma (The Ghost Bus). It is located on the riverside and sells everything from wine racks and lamps to handbags - all created locally. The profits of everything sold go straight back into the Foundation which continues to train the locals and their children.

The latest project is the newly-opened Comedor, which serves traditional Honduran dishes and refreshing beverages in a pleasant setting right next to the store. Both the store and the Comedor will be open throughout Easter Week.

The Easter celebrations in San Juancito are traditional yet low-key. The locals come together and build a dam, blocking a small section of the river which runs through the town. There they relax, eat, and drink together.

Buses run daily from Tegucigalpa; at weekends buses travel directly to the town, but during the week it is necessary to catch the bus that terminates in Cantarana, disembark at the entrance to La Tigra, and continue the short journey on foot, whilst taking in the tremendous views.

THESE ARE THE TIMES

These are the times that try men and women's minds. The weather leading up to the Triathlon scheduled for March the 25th was absolutely beautiful. Sunshine and breezes every day, and clear, brilliant nights. The road was being repaired with the crews working day and night, the people at Mayan Princess were readying their beach front preparations, beer and soda companies were bringing in mass amounts of supplies - and then it hit. During the middle of the night a storm front came upon Roatan, bringing rain and more rain.

Saturday found the police ready to block the roads; and the locals had been warned well enough in advance to plan their day. If you were in West End or West Bay or Sandy Bay or Gibson Bight in the morning you had to be prepared to remain there for the entire duration of the event. Some said only until 11 but others said until 3 o'clock. Would the event happen or be postponed?

Then just before starting time, the rains let up a little and the officials decided to go for it. And go for it they did, and everything went off as planned.

AND THE RESULTS ARE

1st place in the Men's division, Nicolas Becker from France, 2nd place, Chacon Leonardo from Costa Rica, 3rd, Tayara Omar from Spain, 4th, Tovar Espodas Jose, also from Spain and 5th place, Ilobet Javier - again from Spain. 6th and 7th went to Jonathan Salerno and David Messenheimer, both from around Chula Vita, California, where the U.S. Olympic team is training.

In the Women's division, 1st place went to Lauran Grove from Canada, 2nd to Susan Willimas, an American Olympic Bronze medal winner and 3rd to Alexis Waddel All the hard work the organizers and sponsors did to gear-up for this event paid off.

SPEAKING OF GEARING UP

What a clever segue, from gearing up for the Triathlon to Richard Gere, the famous movie star. Mr. Gere was seen and photographed in Copan with his family and then there were reports of them in San Pedro Sula. Now, those that don't really know but think that they do place them on Roatan. One popular resort was closed to the public but V.I.P.'s were seen entering the grounds dressed to the nines.

I guess they get enough recognition back home, and when they travel to exotic places like our Roatan, they like to remain undetected. Too bad for us amateur Paparazzi who don't know all the tricks. We will keep a sharp lookout, though, for the next few days.

AN ANSWER WE WERE LOOKING FOR

According to Mayor Dale Jackson, the materials that women and children were hauling off of the Flowers Bay road worksites were an accumulation of "over spray" that would have had to be removed anyway, so no harm done. The Mayor was just returning from a meeting concerning the road, held in Tegucigalpa. He too has some issues.

WHERE ARE OUR READERS?

On occasion, newspaper and magazine people start to feel alone. We are writing and writing and have no way of knowing if anyone is reading and enjoying our work. Then it hits: a particular subject that does not seem super-interesting causes waves of e-mail action. Some of the conversation is negative, and some positive, but at least we got a rise out of our audience and we are reassured our efforts are not for naught.

We have subscribers all over the world but it seems that the talkative ones are in the United States. They want to keep their fingers on the pulse of Honduras, and on Roatan as well. Most are working in the big cities like New York or Miami or Los Angeles, but some are in very very strange situations: perhaps incarcerated or hiding from immigration officials or halfway between. It is good to hear from them and here is a special Hola to those who will someday return to Roatan.

What's new in Copan Ruinas these days? Well, plenty.

For starters there is a bevy of brand-spanking-new internet cafes. As competition has increased, rates have dropped to Lps 15 per hour and telephone calls to the US are now Lps 2 per minute. There are now so many new internet places in the village that I've lost track of how many there are in total.

Tunkul Bar & Restaurant has a newly refurbished outdoor deck which fronts the street, decked out with wrought iron tables and chairs and a big shady café umbrella.

Actor Richard Gere made a visit to Copan Ruinas last week. He spent the night at the Hotel Marina Copan and toured the ruins, then departed for Roatan in his private jet which was waiting in San Pedro Sula. His visit took up the entire front page and all of pages two and three in the nation's largest daily, La Prensa. Talk about big, breaking news!

A new restaurant in town catering to the budget crowd that seeks good, home-cooked food; it just happens to serve up some the best rotisserie chicken this side of the Rio Grande. Whole perfectly roasted birds which go for Lps 100 are a crispy dark brown on the outside and dry and tender on the inside - just the way I like them. The eatery is called Picame and is located just a few steps from Hotel Paty at the entrance to town. Hacienda San Lucas is now bigger and better than ever. It has inaugurated its new guest rooms, new kitchen and expanded dining area.

Rates have gone up accordingly and guest reviews have been simply marvelous. Five course, candlelit, gourmet typical dinners for $20 are very popular and San Lucas is the place to watch the sun dip over the Copan River Valley. A new pizzeria in town has also opened of late, Bonis Pizza, which has yet to be reviewed by this writer so stay tuned. Copan's two Spanish language schools are improving; Escuela Guacamaya now boasts a brand new campus and Escuela Ixbalanque is hot on its heels and building a new structure of its own. The new schools should give an added boost of adrenaline to Copan's language school scene and place Copan firmly on the map as a language school destination.

Tours, anyone? Base Camp Adventures has jumped onto the scene in Copan offering a host of interesting, fun, well-organized tours. They have the best horses in town and run unique trips such as motocross tours and hikes to interesting places in and around Copan, all at very reasonable prices. They also have the best office of all the tour operators in town. It's a beauty.

One of Copan's newest eating places is Casa de Todo, which offers a bunch of yummy options and one of the nicest little gardens in town. Not new, but under new management is Xibalbla Bar, otherwise known by this writer as X Bar, and known by expat locals simply as Tanya's Place, in honor of its proprietor Tanya of Twisted Tanya's fame and formerly of Twisted Toucan renown. X Bar is small, informal and a great place to get toasted with the host with the most - Vickie who runs the bar just happens to be Tanya's niece and hails from that big, cold, drizzly, windswept  wasteland known as the UK.

From the looks of it, the Maya Sculpture Museum at the ruins should be reopening any day now, as the roof looks to be completed. Let's all cross our fingers. Café Via Via is now baking up fresh bread daily and croissants on Saturday mornings. Get there early before they all sell out. The croissants are crusty and wonderful with that Saturday morning cup of Copan coffee and the morning paper.

Gerard of Café Via Via - Base Camp Adventures - Shuttle service and Hostel Manzana Verde fame receives my vote as the new über-empresario these days in Copan Ruinas. Finally after many years, Honduras This Week is now delivering to most major businesses in town each and every week. There's a new eating spot at the Enchanted Wings Butterfly Garden - haven't tried it yet. A brand, spanking new airport is slated to be built by the new administration at Rio Amarillo, approximately half an hour from Copan Ruinas. Businesses in town have taken down many of their inappropriate signs, replacing them with appropriate signage and removing painted publicity from outside walls; although many businesses have yet to jump on board the beautification bandwagon.