TRAVEL & TOURISM

Free Wireless Internet!
Beautifully appointed suites with high-bandwidth internet access with wireless network, computer desk, safe, 3 direct-dial telephones, bar and kitchenette with fully stocked pantry. 

Don Peat
Honduras This Week

Jean-Charles Lanciault
Standard cabin at The Lodge at Pico Bonito.

When you arrive at the Lodge at Pico Bonito, welcome is taken to a whole new level.

The minute you walk into the spacious reception area of this small, luxury hotel, you are welcomed with a tropical beverage, with alcohol if you're in the mood, and as you check-in your bags are carried to your choice of either a standard or superior cabin.

Perched on the edge of Pico Bonito National Park, just outside of La Ceiba on Honduras' northern coast, the Lodge is dedicated to ensuring guests can experience nature without sacrificing any bit of comfort or luxury they might receive in a five-star resort.

The lodge complex itself is interconnected by a series of raised wooden and gravel walkways, connecting the main reception area, gift shop, restaurant/bar, pool, and conference center with all the resort's cabins. Surrounding each walkway is a plethora of native plants and trees, including some of the cocoa and coffee plants that once dominated the landscape of this former plantation ground.

Once you've made your way to your cabin, your first glance inside the door will confirm that this is solely a cabin by name only because it is unlike any you've ever stayed in before. An all-wood interior and large, comfy beds complete with cloth bathrobes are all waiting inside the room upon your arrival. Also, just on the table by the door awaits your personal welcome letter from the resort's owner.

The presence of hot water, ceiling fans, scented bath soaps, beds turned down at bedtime, and even air conditioning, all confirm you've left the realm of rustic and entered the empire of extravagance.

But despite the comfortable cabins, most people come to the Lodge for the nature trails. They wind their way from the main resort area all the way into Pico Bonito Park, taking visitors up into the Nombre de Dios mountain range.

The trails, free to guests and open to visitors for a moderate fee, provide ample opportunity to see all varieties of birds and wildlife. Towers placed along the routes give people the chance to rise above the canopy and see brilliant vistas of the forest.

For those that can handle a longer hike they can even follow the trail down to swimming holes amidst the Corinto and Coloradito rivers.

Once you've explored the trails, guests have the option of adding-on experiences to their stay at the resort. Horseback riding, snorkelling, white water rafting, and stargazing are just some of the activities available to guests for an additional fee.

Sitting on the restaurant porch in a large, wooden deck chair after a busy day at Pico Bonito, you can't help but be awed by the beauty of the giant mountains and vibrant nature that surround the resort. Though you might not be able to decide which activity you want to do the next day, one thing will be certain, on the edge of the wildness of Honduras, you've found an oasis of luxury.

TOLL GATES IN GENERAL

When leaving San Pedro Sula you will run into a tollgate arrangement and be asked to pay a fee for using the highways. Although relatively new to Honduras, this is not a revolutionary way to raise money. You will find this arrangement all over the world including the United States. Could this be one solution to our highway maintenance situation on the island?

This is not to say we get to drive free now, because many times while crossing the island we are stopped by ropes across the road with say fireman or policemen on either end, sometimes it is a soccer team or students holding the barriers. And, we almost always run into the guy with the shovel filling in holes supposedly, and then there are the men in wheelchairs at popular speed bumps. Although these are voluntary contributions, sometimes the shame of passing them by is overwhelming, and popular opinion does come into play.

Would it be possible to register these nice people and their various causes and have them supported by an official tollgate? Just a thought.

THE TRIATHELON

March the 25th is the big day and we are all still hoping the roads are ready for he runners and the cyclists.
This is a big event and it brings a lot of people to the island. Headquarters will again be at the Mayan Princess. This issue of HTW will not give the race results due to a deadline issue, but next weeks publication will cover the highlights.

THAT FLOWERS BAY ROAD

It has been suggested by numerous readers that someone, anyone, take the responsibility of posting a "NOT A THROUGH STREET" sign at both ends when the road is blocked for construction. Many times you think you have it made only to run into a blockade near the destination you were shooting for. Also on the same subject, who is ultimately responsible for the materials being stolen on a daily basis? Is it the contractor's problem or is it the people paying for the road, the taxpayers? Witnesses have reported actual truckloads of materials leaving the sites. Mothers and Grandmothers taking what they like while construction workers and supervisors stand by just watching them. If it were municipal money being hauled away, perhaps a policeman at the materials depot would save a lot of money. If it is the contractors problem then a guard or a hired policeman would save someone money. If somehow it falls into the unknown zone and the public is paying for all of the private driveways and planters along the road, who can help us out with this situation?
Some readers have brought HTW pictures of large potholes already forming and the work is not even dry yet.

YO SIGO A CRISTO

HTW was invited to attend a concert called Yo Sigo a Cristo which means, I follow God. The event was held in the soccer stadium in Las Fuertes and drew well over two thousand participants. The crowd was about 99.8% Spanish and 1 Gringo.

The format was a mix of live Christian music provided by a four piece band and several solo acts performing to pre-recorded back-up music. In between sets various guests would preach the Gospel and rally the crowds into shouting an occasional Amen. Everyone you don't see anywhere else was there, and having a great time.

HTW was just informed that the old staff at the Registry office in Coxen Hole is still in place and still not showing up for work. We will investigate.

Roatan Bruce Interviews:

Glass bottom boats to teach kids about the reef

Archive/Honduras This Week
French Harbour - Kids from the area are invited on trips in glass bottom boats to learn about the coral reef.

A new program on Roatan has been established to educate school children about our fragile coral reef and Caribbean Sea waters. Mr. Kenny McNab has offered his Underwater Paradise glass bottom boat located at Coconut Tree in the West End to schools all across the island. The idea of the program was to show school children the reef for the first time. Many children have never been out on a boat larger than a row boat. 18 kids and 2 teachers take free one hour trips around the reef on the glass bottom boat. The children are shown what can happen to the reef and fish if people continue to throw garbage carelessly around the island or even into streams leading into our Caribbean Sea.

Three trips have already been taken by children from the Bi-Lingual School in Coxen Hole directed by Miss Sheryl Galindo, the Methodists Bi-Lingual Institute directed by Miss Elia Lopez and the SDA Bi-Lingual Institute in French Harbour.

Jed and Shannon from The Coral Reef Explorer also have a program for children. Since they have been on Roatan, they realized that many local children are growing up beside one of the most beautiful reefs in the world and they have never seen it. "Many do not know how to keep our environment clean like we are taught back home," said Jed. "We are trying to make a win-win situation where kids in public schools can help keep their streets clean, their reefs healthy and be aware and learn about the coral reef and marine life of Roatan."

They have a perfect vessel to teach them about the reefs. Their Coral Reef Explorer glass bottomed boat in West Bay Beach has a knowledgeable staff that can take the kids out on a tour and teach them about the reefs and marine life. They know that not many kids can afford the transportation and ticket price, so their solution is to donate their boat to those kids who help clean up the streets around their school with teacher supervision. Then the kids get a free trip on the Coral Reef Explorer. This can only help the future of this beautiful island so the local residence of tomorrow will be aware and learn to keep Roatan beautiful.

Many thanks go out to Mr. Kenny McNab, Jed and Shannon for taking part in this innovative and community minded program. If you represent a public school on Roatan or know someone who does, and would like kids to see the reef, please email me at roatanbruce@yahoo.com to schedule your school for these free, educational glass bottom boat rides.

Bruce Starr is the host of The Roatan Bruce Show heard weekdays from 11am to 2 pm across the Bay Islands and Northern Honduras on Magic 107.7 FM.

Please visit his website at roatanbruce.com or contact him with comments, story or interview ideas at roatanbruce@yahoo.com.

As tourism is now the number three money earner for Honduras, the tourism sector has begun to take on a new important role in the Honduran economy, which is reflected in many ways. For example the national media in the past four years has begun to cover national tourism not just from a where to go - what to see angle but rather from the perspective of development of new tourism products, marketing, promotion and the development of new tourism destinations and innovative tourism products.

In addition, as tourism takes on a new role in the developing economy that is Honduras, problems have begun to surface, especially in areas where established economic interests conflict with the interests of the up and coming tourism sector. One recent and ongoing example of this phenomenon is at the small beachside village of Omoa, located approximately 30 minutes from Puerto Cortes, the nations number one port. Blessed with a pleasant beachside location fringed by the jungly mountains of the Merendon Mountain range and home to one of the most impressive Spanish colonial area fortresses in Central America, Omoa is a tourism gem in the rough. It has a number of small, basic lodging options and a number of simple seafood restaurants hugging the beach.

The town is a big weekend draw for the 750,000 residents of the San Pedro Sula corridor, which stretches, from Villanueva in the south to Choloma to the north. During Easter time, Omoa becomes standing room only as crowds of beach hungry city folk evacuate the sizzling San Pedro Sula environs for a day of sea and surf at the Omoa beach. Obviously tourism entrepreneurs in the Omoa region realize that the San Pedro Sula corridor is a potential windfall market, as San Pedro is only 45 minutes away and a new highway is currently under construction, which will link San Pedro Sula - Omoa - Guatemala. San Pedro Sula is the second largest city and the economic motor than drives the country.

In recent years, Omoa has begun to attract the interest of the wider international tourism sector and small cruise ships have used Omoa as a new, alternative port of call, enabling cruise ship passengers easy access to the banana plantations of the Sula Valley and the ruins of Copan as well as a host of other nearby mainland day trip options.

Talk on the national level has surfaced of erecting a full-fledged cruise ship pier and a major Spanish resort, Barcelo, has announced that they plan to build an all inclusive beach resort nearby as well.

Unfortunately, all that may be in jeopardy due to the construction of four enormous gas storage spheres, each sphere storing 1.5 million gallons of Lpg gas, right on the beach and next to the historic Omoa fortress and the public beach area. Tourism sector members from Omoa are complaining, the national and local government seems unable to take a clear stance on the project and the cruise ships have already cancelled sailings to Omoa.

That the country requires increased gas storage facilities goes without saying. Honduran GDP growth is strong, population is booming and San Pedro, the nation's economic motor, has ever increasing energy needs. How to resolve this dilemma of economic interests vs. the interests of tourism is hard to say, that is for Omoans, the private sector, local government and the national authorities to decide for themselves.

One thing though is for certain, conflicts such as this one in Omoa, the proposed Copan regional airport at Rio Amarillo, the Tela Bay/Los Micos mega project, new condo, resort and residential projects on Roatan, to name but a few, are all hot button, hot potato issues that pit economic interests against the interests of the tourism sector.

In a perfect world, the tourism sector, local and national government and established economic interests will work together for the common good and a robust economic panorama for all, but unfortunately in the real world, conflicting interests often rule the day.

The tourism sector which has become a vital player in the Honduran economy, generating almost 0.5 billion dollars last year in revenues, is here to stay, but its continued health and well being requires constant care and nurturing by all players, both government and private sector.

A BIT OF NAME DROPPING

It seems none other than Mr. Michael Douglas; Son of Mr. Kirk Douglas came to Roatan to look things over. His representative said he had been hearing great things about our island and wanted to see it for himself.

Several real estate people were feeding their choice listing to his representative and they were busy moving about the island. When they left they were flying coordinates to allow their private jet to pass over a Guanaja offering. Since then they have asked for more details on particular properties so maybe something will happen.

This is good news in that we are growing tired of hearing about Julio Iglesias shopping on Roatan and Santana on buying a resort on Guanaja, we need new gossip.

JUST THE TIP OF AN ICEBERG

H.T.W. was recently made aware of a situation involving The Carnival Cruise Ship Lines, Greyline Tours and some past Ministry of Tourism officials. The story is being investigated at this time, more to follow no doubt.

IS IT THAT TIME ALREADY?

Could it possibly be a year has passed since the highly successful 1st annual Roatan International Shrimp Festival did their thing? Well it was held in June last year and June 17th and 18th have been set for this year's biggie. Display booth sales have been flourishing and at last report only four spaces were remaining.

Prices for exhibitors have gone way up but then this is now a proven vehicle for doing a lot of business no matter what you are selling. Food is of course the main event and everyone who is anyone with something to brag about has already chosen his or her spot at the Parrot Tree Lagoon.

Music will provide the background for the two-day event and at least a dozen music groups are contracted to perform. Fun for young and old alike will fill both days and everyone we know is planning on attending.

MR AND MRS HOWARD WERE HERE

Looking like typical tourists the Rosenzweigs were seen walking about on West End the other day. We guess they got tired of the ruins at Copan and came for some modern entertainment. Nice to see you folks. Everyone here reads your articles.

TEX-MEX

If you are looking for a Taco Bell taste alike, go to the Cannibal Café on West End for some real big Mexican style treats.  Tacos and burritos and quesidillas are so big they are hard to finish.  Good service and a nice atmosphere with food to go as well.

When diving came to town

Anette Emanuelsson
Honduras This Week

Courtesy of Roberto Alvarez
In Puerto Cortes you can take any certificate from Open Water to Dive Master.

In spite of the fact that Honduras is known for its good diving, there are just two PADI dive centers on mainland Honduras. Why?

"People are afraid to invest thousands of dollars in something that nobody has done before," said Roberto Alvarez, owner and manager of Honduras Divers, located at the Hotel Playa outside of Puerto Cortes. "Even though everyone talks about tourism very few people want to invest large sums of money."

Asking around in Puerto Cortes, it is appearant that the interest for tourism is low. Shop owners, taxi drivers, yes, even hotel owners have difficulties finding reasons for tourists to visit the area.

"Unfortunately I'm one of few people who belive in tourism around here," Alvarez continued. "And I can't do it all myself."

During four years he organized mountainbike tours in the Merendon Mountains, also in the Puerto Cortes area, before opening the more profitable dive center nine months ago. After doing more than 100 investigative dives, Alvarez decided that the diving conditions were good enough for his business idea to be realistic.

"Of course the Bay Islands are prettier, period," Alvarez says frankly. "I wouldn't bring anyone all the way from Europe to go diving here but my clients are mostly Hondurans living in San Pedro Sula." His business is based on the idea that people in San Pedro might have the time or the money to go to Roatan to get a diving certificate, but they seldom have both.

Courtesy of Roberto Alvarez
Although not as pretty as the Bay Islands there are some nice reefs around Puerto Cortes.

During his dive trips around Puerto Cortes, he has seen turtles, groupers, stingrays, baracuda, lobster and morays. However, the reefs could need some protection acording to Alvarez. "The local fishing industry affects the reefs a lot and many people drop their anchors on the corals." Also sweet water from three large rivers in the area affects the reefs negatively.

Alvarez gives theory classes and does the initial dives in a swimming pool in San Pedro Sula. Then he brings his clients to Puerto Cortes for two aditional dives and the final exam. As a special treat he normally lets his students do one dive at the Zapotillo cays in southern Belize. "They are just one hour away from here," he said, "the water is crystal clear and since it is a marine reserve the corals are well preserved." And as far as Alvarez knows, he is the only one organizing dive trips from Honduras to Belize.

Going into tourism came natural to Alvarez. His dad has been in the hotel and restaurant business for 35 years and Alvarez basically grew up on the Cienaguita beach, giving him a passion for the sea.

In the future, Alvarez plans to open more dive centers along the north coast and has already signed a contract with a hotel in La Ceiba. He also hopes to move his business to Tegucigalpa and to buy a bigger and more comfortable boat in order to take divers to Belize quicker.

"I am just catering for a small percentage of the San Pedro market and then there is Tegucigalpa," Alvarez said, hinting that his business could keep growing. "You have to believe in tourism and I do."

Hotel Review: Gran Central

Emma Barlow
Honduras This Week

Arriving late in the evening - my first impressions of the Hotel Gran Central in Tela were good, the night porter helped me in with my bags and checked me in and I received a warm welcome from all the staff.

The Hotel was lovingly renovated by husband and wife Luc and Veronique Bernard over the course of 3 years, beginning in 1996 - the building required a complete overhaul from top to bottom.

Today the Hotel is beautifully decorated - and offers accommodation for 24 couples. Including an apartment which can sleep 6 which has its own kitchen, lounge, bathroom and 3 bedrooms. Extremely good value, it would be perfect for families and back-packers alike.

Each room has a slightly different color scheme but all have a peaceful and relaxing feel to them. The rooms all have private bathrooms, hot water, remote controlled air conditioning, fan and cable television.

Also equipped with guides and leaflets for Tela and the surrounding area which was a nice touch. Many of the rooms also share the large balcony that runs around the outside of the building - providing a nice area to read, relax or look out over the town.

The bed was very comfortable and despite being on the corner of two fairly busy streets, I slept undisturbed by noise.

The Hotel is clean and the pleasing decor continues throughout. The spacious restaurant and bar leads out into the small garden where I was served a very tasty breakfast.

Hotel Gran Central is ideal for those who want a quiet, relaxing time - away from the business of the beachfront but only a short walk from all Tela has to offer including the beach.

Roatan Bruce Interviews:

Bringing together two police departments for a better community

Bruce Starr
Honduras This Week

The following very special interview on the radio brings together the National Police Deputy Commissario Jorge Carias and the Roatan Municipal Police Chief Joseph Solomon. They have both been on the show before, but not at the same time. These police officers are not only dedicated and experienced police leaders, but they both have something that some others may not. They both care deeply about everyone on the island, not just some.

RB: I want to thank you both for coming on the show.

Roatan Municipal Police Chief Joe Solomon: We are here working together for the betterment of the community and to make Roatan a better place.

RB: It seems to me that there are five different types of police departments. It was all a mystery to me how they worked together, or didn't work, together in the past.

Deputy Commissario Jorge Carias: We are all here to enforce the law. All the departments compliment each other. The National Preventive Police are connected with other national police from around the country. My immediate jurisdiction is the Bay Islands. When a crime has been committed, we work with the DGIC. Under the Preventiva is the Traffic Police. Everyday, we are working closer and closer with all the communities.

RB: Chief Solomon, tell us what the role of the Municipal Police is and what they can do and what they can't do.

JS: We are responsible for all misdemeanors. Every criminal we apprehend is going over to the Preventiva. We are responsible for permits. We go to businesses and make sure that they are adhering to the rules and regulations of the municipal department. It is my job to make sure that all citizens and visitors adhere to the ordinances. We also have the authority to arrest someone within a 24-hour period of him or her doing a crime. Any arrest has to be turned over to the DGIC, the criminal investigators. In addition to being the Chief of Police, I am a type of judge.

We also have the responsibility of making sure the traffic flows smoothly through Coxen Hole and other areas. Our responsibilities are restricted though. My jurisdiction is from West Bay to First Bite. If I see someone stealing or if I see a crime being committed, I can deal with that. However, after the 24-hour period the crime is committed, if they are going to be captured, they must be captured by the Preventiva.

RB: I know years ago, I was told the different police departments not only did not share information with each other, but they didn't like each other. From what I can see and from what you have told me, that is no longer the case. I have also been told that the municipal police, who have been serving the community for years, know the in's and out's, and who the chronic thieves are. Can your two departments share information to help create a safer environment?

JC: Of course we can and we do. We communicate every two days or so. This is one of my strategic plans, not for the future, but for today. We discuss their information, we check and analyze to see what can be done. Another goal is to establish relationships with people in the community.

This is part 1 of a 2 part interview.

Bruce Starr is the host of The Roatan Bruce Show heard weekdays from 11 am to 2 pm across the Bay Islands and Northern Honduras on Magic 107.7 FM.

Please visit his website at roatanbruce.com or contact him with comments, story or interview ideas at roatanbruce@yahoo.com.

Saturday afternoon brought wonderful news to Roatan. Delta Airlines is now adding a non-stop service from Atlanta, Georgia to Roatan. Hundreds of people flocked to the airport to enjoy the music of a steel band on the outside and a Garifuna dance troupe on the inside. Music filled the air giving ROA the atmosphere arriving tourists expect.

Blending in with the usual TACA and Continental traffic, the hustle and bustle was exciting. Throw in the Islena, Sosa and Atlantic air passengers, and we looked as good as LAX on a calm day.

Doctors Hector and Dina Gomez were there seeing off their Medical Brigade, island V.I.P.s were there in suits and neckties for the ribbon cutting ceremonies, and we suspect a lot of locals were there just to be there. As usual business was being conducted in every nook and cranny and old acquaintances were being renewed. It is said time and time again, if you hang out at the airport long enough, you will eventually run into everyone you have been meaning to get in touch with, and a few more as well.

WORD ON THE STREET
FRONT STREET THAT IS

Three, count them, three big luxury liners are scheduled to drop anchor on Roatan this coming Tuesday. A couple of Norwegian Liners and a special cruise ship that only comes here a couple of times a year. This will be a great test of the island's infrastructure.

Odds are between all those visitors a large number of them will love our facilities and plan on returning in the future for a land based vacation. Then when that happens they will start looking for some land or for a condo. And begin their retirement planning.

LOST THEN FOUND

While doing some shallow digging in Dixon Cove, a worker came upon a rather magnificent wooden statue. It is in good condition and shows little or no rot as if it were chemically treated in some manner. At first glance it could be the likeness of a Spanish Conquistador but then the imagination does much in cases like this. The owner is planning on taking it personally to Copan to have one of the archeologists give them his or her opinion as to the age and origin.

What's to do in Honduras you may ask. Well take a look at what's in store for you on your next Honduras bound vacation:

-Jungly ruins, where the artistic expression of the ancient, mysterious Maya reached its greatest development.

-Dozens of towns with gems of colonial churches and monuments, and two full-fledged Spanish fortresses. Pine-clad highlands, and virtually untouched and unpopulated lowland forests alive with jaguar and tapir.

-Hundreds of miles of deserted Caribbean beach.

-Excellent bird-watching; a unique tropical botanical garden; swimming, snorkeling & diving, sailing, sport fishing, white water rafting and kayaking  and all the outdoor sports of a mild climate.

Central Tegucigalpa, still somewhat colonial-flavored, is small enough that you can get a sense of the city center during a walk of just a few hours. There are some fine old examples of colonial and nineteenth century architecture, city squares in which to linger, and pedestrian streets for shopping and observing the flow of  modern city life in Honduras largest city and the center of government, culture and education

In southern and eastern Honduras, there are good views of high plateaus. The vegetation changes to pines, and it is fresh and windy as you gain altitude.

From the heights, before long, you can see the Gulf of Fonseca in the distance, as you begin to wind down through hilly and broken terrain toward the Pacific Ocean. Isla del Tigre, which was once a major Pacific port of great importance, is today a sleepy, forgotten backwater with spectacular views of distant volcanoes in El Salvador, Nicaragua and the untouristy and scenic Gulf of Fonseca.

Honduras is the last frontier of travel in Central America, where an adventuring soul can still be one of the few outsiders to drift along a lazy river bordered by centenary trees, listen to the roar of howler monkeys trooping through the jungle canopy, spot a jaguar wading in the shallows, and wonder at petroglyphs carved by mysterious ancient civilizations.

Diving is what the Bay Islands are most known for. The sea is calm within the fringing reefs, and there are practically no drift currents along the south side of the islands. And if you like coral reefs, you'll find the corals around the Bay Islands spectacular, intact, and very much alive.

The underwater landscape features wandering clefts and caverns, sheer walls, cracks, tunnels, caves and ledges, reverse ledges, and drop-offs of 100 to 200 feet. Walls start as little as twenty feet under the surface, which affords more natural light than is usually available in wall diving.  Diving here is also cheap, with Honduras boasting the best value in the entire Caribbean for diving courses. 

For the most part, sport fishing is something you'll participate in from resorts in the Bay Islands. On the mainland of Honduras, the most famous fishing hole is Lake Yojoa, known for bass weighing in at about ten pounds on the average.

In just a few years, Honduras has moved into the forefront of Latin America in protecting and preserving its natural treasures. And treasures there are aplenty - over 700 species of birds, 500 piscine species, and flora that includes scores of species of orchids alone.

The Mosquitia region along the border of Nicaragua is one of the last, largely undisturbed lowland forests in Central America. It is a virtual untouched, pristine area with no roads, where the major transport arteries are serpentine rivers which are navigated by dugout canoes powered by outboard motors or hand paddled by their Miskito Indian owners.

The coastal portion of La Mosquitia boasts hundreds of miles of undisturbed and undeveloped Caribbean coast. In other parts of the country there are pockets of highland cloud forest that the magnificent resplendent quetzal, the holy grail of birders, still calls home.

Honduras has white water! It's rapid, it's exhilarating, it's ecological, it's adventurous, it's offbeat, it's inexpensive, but best of all, it's warm. There are major rivers throughout Honduras, but rafting operators mainly use those on the north coast; the Cangrejal near La Ceiba and the Platano in La Mosquitia, where water levels are most reliable during the rainy season from October to May.