Beautiful Apart-Hotel in Tegucigalpa's finest neighborhood.
Beautifully appointed suites with high-bandwidth internet access, desk, safe, 3 direct-dial telephones, bar and kitchenette with fully equipped pantry in each room. 

Courtesy of University of Liverpool
Robin Knox-Johnston - one of few sailors who have earned the title "Mariner."

"During these days a feeling of awe crept over me. My memory worked with startling power. The ominous, the insignificant, the great, the small, the wonderful, the commonplace all appeared before my mental vision in magical succession."--Joshua Slocum, Sailing Alone Around the World

Seven years before my birthday, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of the tallest mountain on the planet. In 1967, Francis Chichester sailed alone around the world. In 1969 Neil Armstrong and Edwin "Buzz" Aldrin reached Earth's moon.

My dad was fortunate enough to live through these events. I had to read about them as part of history. To me they were all as distant as Homer's account of the siege of Troy. Nevertheless, as with anybody whose imagination runs unbridled - like a sinful parson seeking redemption - the idea of man transcending his limitations in search of meaning is dear to me.

Along with these happenings, I was also too young to be able to live through the first around the world solo-sailing race: the 1968 Golden Globe, sponsored by the London Sunday Times. But I read all about it in a fantastic book my brother gave me, "A Voyage for Madmen," masterfully written by Peter Nichols. Much of what follows has that book to thank as reference.

Of the nine men who set out to finish this first of its kind - the most audacious ocean race ever conceived at that time - only two were in conditions to finish: Robin Knox-Johnston and Bernard Moitessier. One did, the other chose not to.

I repeat he chose not to - the other seven were unable to finish. But we will talk about Bernard Moitessier in another article.

Nowadays, globe-girdling solo races are much more - if you will - commonplace. They're facilitated enormously by multimillion sponsors, technological wizardry and gadgets. Solo sailors can now stay in touch with the world through satellite telephone, e-mail, fax and obtain immediate electronic fixes through global positioning systems. Back in 1968, any man facing the ocean in a race like that was alone, truly alone, for weeks and even months. Not to detract from their likewise remarkable contemporaries - it always takes a certain type of man or woman to venture out alone around the world in a sailboat - but these first fellows were autonomous and, by rights, formidable.

Knox-Johnston - now Sir Robin - finished the race and deservedly went on to fame and fortune. Such notoriety was merely incidental, and never his purpose. The money was also a by-product.

I first learned of him as I watched TV one day. He was being interviewed about something having to do with sailing boats. I noticed that the caption beneath his name read "Mariner." Wow! The title alone was better than any "Sir," at least in my book. Not sailor, nor skipper or captain, not yachtsman, nor accomplished racer…. No. It was MARINER. And I said to myself, what does one have to do to be called a mariner?

Well, for one thing, you have to circumnavigate the world in a sailboat. That necessarily entails a little bit more than just rounding Cape Horn, which in itself is pretty tough, and I don't think you'd deserve to be called a "mariner" if you did it in a motorboat (we'll go into this a little more some other time). No, to be entitled to such an appellation, a man must launch himself way beyond his comfort zone, relentlessly master his fears and allow the universe to conspire with him to work the miraculous purpose of a lifetime. A mariner knows how to unleash the fountainhead of energy sleeping within. A floating vessel is the final and least requirement for circling the globe's vast oceans alone.

To quote from an ancient Indian philosopher, "When you are inspired by some great purpose, some extraordinary project, all of your thoughts break their bonds: your mind transcends limitations, your consciousness expands in every direction and you find yourself in a new, great and wonderful world."

As I researched, read and saw more of Knox-Johnston, I came to realize he was not normal. That is to say, not ordinary. To stay fit during the long race, this man would tie a line around his waist, walk to the bow of his heeling sailboat, jump into the ocean, swim alongside the vessel until it outdistanced him, and then - using the rope - haul himself up the stern, only to repeat the exercise again.

He was in the Southern Latitudes, as far away from land as can be, and alone.

Sir Robin Knox-Johnston was termed "distressingly normal" during routine psychiatric evaluations - before and after the race. But then, such purposeful madness has never been an issue within easy grasp of the routine mindset, nor has normalcy ever been equipped to adequately gauge the extraordinary makeup of those more driven and inspired than itself.

I recently received an e-mail from a manager of a five star resort hotel in the Caribbean advising me that the resort has "relaxed" its no pet policy, and now permits guests to bring their pets on vacation. There is something to be said for a resort that does not allow children under 16, but will allow dogs. The resort has taken the pet policy one step further by offering a gourmet in-room dining menu for your pet. Apparently, anytime a hotel can command room rates in excess of $500 per night, the phrase room service is automatically replaced with in-room dining. I have to wonder, when you call to place an order, does the receptionist answer the phone with "in-room dining, how may I help you?" The e-mail also guaranteed gourmet handmade doggie treats as part of their evening turndown service.

People love their pets, and our family is no exception. We have three dogs as pets; a Yorkshire Terrier, an 11 month old chocolate Labrador Retriever, and a jet black mixed-breed that adopted us one day last summer. Before we had children, my wife and I used to name our pets from special experiences in our lives, we had a Llapso Apso named Chaminoix after a wonderful visit to France. We had another Llapso named Lezangar after a remarkable dinner experience that was accentuated by a 1964 bottle of Chateau Lezangars. We also had a very, very large Newfoundland named Bertritis after the botrytis cinerea, a very rare mold occurrence that typically accompanies a frost, dramatically enhancing the sugar content of late harvest wines, producing a wonderful, sweet gift of nature.

After children came into our lives, things became much simpler and Keeley and Aeden are now blessed with the task of naming our pets. We have Pepita-the yorkie, Louie-the lab, and Kanica-the mixed breed. Somehow, Louie-the-lab and Kanica became quite familiar with each other to the tune of a litter of eleven puppies; seven black and four brown. The last of the litter was given away this week to a dear friend who is the owner-operator of an extraordinary boutique hotel in Copan called Hacienda San Lucas. The puppy is named Luco, and he is one of the funniest looking dogs I have ever seen. Picture a black lab puppy with Dalmatian patches across his nozzle and chest, white paws, a white ring around his neck and a white tip on his tail. As the mascot of a boutique hotel that prides itself on the distinguishable points of difference, Luco will be right at home.

This is a cooking column after all, and to avoid the burden of our pets staying in $500+ a night resorts in the Caribbean, I would like to share with you a recipe for gourmet dog biscuits suitable for turndown service in the best resorts and hotels. As with any baking recipe, we will stick to three basics. 1) Preheat your oven to at least 50 degrees higher than the recipe calls for. 2) Do not over-mix the dough, as the gluten will become elastic and you will end up with rubbery-tough product. 3) Baking is a science, please measure your ingredients.

Hand Made Gourmet Dog Biscuits

3 cups all-purpose flour

3 cups whole-wheat

flour

2 cups oatmeal

1 cup cornmeal

1 tbs garlic powder

1 tbs ground ginger

1 tbs instant yeast

2 eggs whole

½ cup dry milk powder

3 cups beef or chicken

broth

1/8 cup milk

Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Grease a cookie sheet with butter or margarine. In a large mixing bowl, combine white flour, whole-wheat flour, oatmeal, cornmeal, garlic powder, brewer's yeast and instant milk. Make a well in the middle and stir in eggs and 2 cups of cool broth. Mix the ingredients well using your hands or a stiff spoon. At this point, the dough should be stiff. Gradually mix in the remaining cup of broth to make a bread-dough consistency. Roll the dough out to about ½ inch thickness on a floured board. Cut out biscuits (you can use a cookie or biscuit cutter). Place the biscuits on the greased cookie sheet. Brush the tops of the biscuits lightly with milk. Place in preheated oven, reduce the temperature to 300 degrees and bake for approximately 45 minutes or until golden brown. I usually turn the tray around in the oven about halfway through the baking process to ensure an even heat distribution. Remove pan from oven and allow biscuits to cool overnight. Store biscuits in an airtight container.

Questions or comments?
E-mail Daniel O'Connor at
culinary_adventures@hotmail.com

CULTURAL EVENTS

ART

WOMEN IN THE ARTS - Mujeres en las Artes. One of the strongest artistic movements in Tegucigalpa. Mujeres en la Artes Leticia de Oyuela constantly sponsors workshops, exhibitions, conferences, art shows and community events in the city. For the complete schedule, log on to www.muaartes.org.hn or contact Veronica Romero at 222 3015.

“EL MAIZAL” PLAY PRESENTATION FROM RED SHADOW THEATRE COMPANY. Manuel Bonilla Theatre. June 5th and 6th: 10:00 a.m., 1:00, 3:00 and 7:00 p.m. Lps. 40.00 general For more information alejadrachambasis@yahoo.com

ANTHOLOGY OF PLASTIC AND VISUAL ARTS IN SAN PEDRO SULA. May 31th, 7:00 p.m. At th Room of Multipurpose of the Spanish Commerce Chamber. Free entrance.

VISUAL ARTS EXHIBITION. With Medardo Cardona, Rodrigo Argueta and other excellent artist. National Art Gallery Theatre, La Merced Park in Tegucigalpa. May 30th 7:00 p.m. Free entrance.

HONDURAS VISUAL ARTS BIENNIAL. June 5th thru 27th. For more information contact: info@muuartes.org.hn

VOICES AND SONGS OF HONDURAS. National identity audio. Saturdays, 9:00 a.m - 10:00 1.m. at H.R.N. (92.9 F.M.)

ECOLOGICAL ADVENTURES IN HONDURAS. Children aimed by adults. Saturdays, 10:00 a.m. - 10:30 a.m at H.R.N. (92.9 F.M.)

TERCO CULTURAL PRODUCTIONS. Contact them, they always have info on cultural activities.E-mail: tercoproducciones@gmail.com. Visit www.karlalara.com

PROYECTO GRITON ACTIVITIES. Visit

www.proyectogriton.com and focus on KUPIAKUMI, you’ll find the daily logbook of the activities of this cultural group.

CULTURAL ACTIVITIES- Cafe Paradiso (downtown) is always performing cultural activities. Contact paradiso@cablecolor.hn

PAINTING CLASSES FOR ADULTS AND CHILDREN- Saturdays 10 a.m. - 12 p.m. Honduran Institute of Hispanic Culture, north side of American School. Contact 235-4463, visit www.culturahispanicahn.org

INFORMATION ABOUT CULTURAL ACTIVITIES- Contact contacto@rds.org.hn

NATIONAL LIBRARY INSTALLATIONS FOR EVENTS- These installations are appropriate for book presentations, expositions, conferences and any other cultural events.

VISIT AN EXCELLENT WEB SITE- The Association Women in the Arts, Aid Center and Visual Arts is inviting you to visit the web site: www.instala.hn. You will find information on different art activities.

ENDESA SCHOLARSHIPS. The ENDESA- Foundation in collaboration with the Spanish Ministry of Culture convokes scholarships for Latinamerican candidates.The main objective is to promote the Cultural Heritage. For more information contact www.mcu.es

MUSIC & DANCE

LIVE MUSIC, 60/70's- Restaurants Pa-pa Chacalín at Blvd. Morazán. For more information contact bigbbang_arte@yahoo.com

RICARDO MANTANER IN CONCERT:”EVERYTHING AND NOTHING”. Engineering National Coliseum in Tegucigalpa, June 3rd, 8:00 p.m. V.I.P. Lps 1000, Seat Lps. 600.00, general entrance Lps. 300. Tickets for sale www.credomatic.com or at BAC agencies.

RAPHAEL FROM SPAIN IN CONCERT, “NEAR FROM YOU, 2006”. Convention Center, Honduras Maya Hotel, Tegucigalpa, June 3rd. 8:00 p.m. Us$ 60.00

URANIA CONCERT. Classic Rock and Modern Band, Taramundi, Col.. Ruben Dario, Tegucigalpa. May 27th, 9:00 p.m.

THE TREASURE THAT YOU HAVE: EL TESORO QUE TIENES- The new CD of Guillermo Anderson, produced with the support of the Rio Platano Biosphere Project and the German Cooperation Agency (GTZ). The Misquito artist Juan Cooper is the guest of honor. For information contact 550-3105

SABOR CUBANO- Come and enjoy the best Latin Rhythms: Salsa, Merengue, and Rumba. Every Friday at Restaurant-Bar: "Sabor Cubano" Learn how to dance with the best dancers in town and enjoy the original "Mojito Cubano"! Colonia Palmira, No. 1933, half a block from Taco Taco. For more information call: 235-9947.

EXCELLENT LIVE MUSIC-Fridays and Saturdays at Restaurant El Corral, Col. Alameda. Meats are their specialty.

HAPPY HOUR AND LADIES NIGHT AT BAR NAPOC AND MARRIOTT HOTEL. Happy hour from Monday to Sunday, 5 - 7 p.m. thursday: Ladies Night 6 - 7:00 p.m. two drinks for free. Karaoke on Fridays and Saturday live musci: Caribbean Group from 9:00 p.m. thru 1:00 a.m.

GUILLERMO ANDERSON PRESENTATIONS. June 16th at the Central Park in Comayagua, celebrating the Ambiance Day. June 20th In San Pedro Sula, 7:30 p.m. at the Cultural Center. June 21th in Tela, 7:30 p.m. at eh Culture Room

MUSEUMS & GARDENS

MISCELLANEOUS

USA EMBASSY SCHOLARSHIPS- For more information contact Ledy Pacheco, information specialist. pachecoLC@state.gov or 236-9309

SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM OF CAROLINA FOUNDATION (SPAIN)- Specially for young university undergraduates, for more information contact and visit www.fundacioncarolina.es

SWEDISH SCHOLARSHIPS- For Ph.D and post Ph.D. studies or for Master programs. Visit www.studyinsweden.se or contact the Swedish Institute, Box 7434 SE-103, 91 Stockholm, Sweden.

2006 XVIII AWARD "KING JUAN CARLOS I, CONVOCATTION- It's a historical studies award. Every work on historical times, from Honduras and Central America will be considered. Economics, language and ethnic subjects are of interest also. Contact:Spanish Embassy in Tegucigalpa: 236-6875

SCHOLARSHIPS OFFERED BY AUSTRIA INVESTIGATIONS CENTERS. The Ministry of Education, Science and Culture of Austria offers scholarships of studying and investigation, pre-graduated and Master studies, Doctorates, contact www.grants.at

UNIVERSITY OF SALAMANCA SCHOLARSHIPS. For students at Spain and Latin American. For information contact: ncariasmontiel@yahoo.com

XVIII SCIENTIFIC WEEK AT UNAH. The National Autonomous University of Honduras is organizing this scientific event. From September 25th thru 29th. Abstract final presentation until July 15th. For more information contact: Isabel Sandoval: masais2003@yahoo.com

FARMING AND PRODUCTION OF ONION. In CEDA, Comayagua, promoted by FHIA, June 7th and 8th 8:00 a.m thru 4:00 p.m. Lps 1,100.00 for national participants and US75.00 from other countries. For more information: rtejada@fhia.org.hn

COCINA LATINA AT MARRIOTT HOTEL. A special flavor every day of the week: Monday: Asian, Tuesday: Italian, Wednesday: Peruvian, thursday: Mexican, Friday: seafood, Saturday: Italian/Mexican, Sunday: Honduran cuisine.

Take-away poetry set to be a success

Hannah Green
Honduras This Week

Courtesy of Pez Dulce
Carlos Izaguirre, Jorge Federico Travieso, Rafael Paz Paredes, and Celeo Murillo Soto are just some of the Honduran poets included in Hondureños para llevar.

"There are many Honduran poets, but not much of their work is ever published or sold in bookshops," Gabriel Vallecillo tells me. Vallecillo has released several books of his own poetry, and now has another work to add to his collection. "Hondureños para llevar" (literally "Hondurans to take away") was released at a special presentation at El Museo del Hombre on Thursday featuring poetry recitals and complementary music. It is an anthology of solely Honduran poetry compiled by Vallecillo along with Ruben Izaguirre and Victor Saborío. The main stimulus for the three writers' project was their perception of a desperate need for greater cultural awareness in Honduras.

The words "si no leemos nos morimos" ("if we don't read we die") appear on each page and this concept lies at the heart of the anthology. Vallecillo describes Honduras as a "dying country" due to both its lack of identity and the widespread violence which is taking over. The book aims to provide hope in the midst of the current chaos and to instill a sense of pride in Hondurans, by teaching them about the people who shaped their country's history. Vallecillo laments that "there have been many great Honduran people who achieved so much, but no-one knows about them now". Hondurans' identity is therefore fragmented and polluted by a greater interest in television, celebrity gossip and going out.

The book is intended to make its readers think about where Honduras will end up if the violence, poverty and lack of cultural interest continue. The idea is that culture can fill in the spiritual gaps that plague Honduras at the moment; the book can act as a wake-up call for the country. The response so far has been overwhelmingly positive, which bodes well for the impact of the message.

"Hondureños para llevar" is aimed primarily at young people and at new readers. For this reason, every aspect of it is designed to be highly accessible: the poems included are mostly not printed in full. The smaller extracts serve to whet readers' appetite for more poetry. The design of the book is very simple, and the portraits of featured poets on each page add to the attraction for new readers.

Much of the focus is on children due to Ruben Izaguirre and others' work with young people. Their 'La Leona' mobile library travels to especially under-privileged areas in and around Tegucigalpa. Books are distributed to children there, usually in the safety of churches, hospitals and schools as violence and danger prevails in such neighborhoods. The children - the recipients of books, education and kindness - have no resources or money available to them otherwise. Izaguirre notes the difference in the children between when he first met them and now, when they have a book in their hand or a story in their head: "the children's personality really comes out and the whole experience enhances their confidence".

'La Leona' has been established for four years and Izaguirre and his fellow volunteers take time out of their weekends after working busy weeks in a mixture of high-ranking professions, including law. In this case, the lawyers' expertise can add to the experience for the children, particularly by teaching them about rights that they didn't know they had. Izaguirre believes that children's lack of education and knowledge leads to a lack of respect and courtesy which in turn can lead to the drug addiction, alcohol abuse and violence which is so prevalent in Honduras at the moment.

Reading and writing creates a new vision for the children and allows them to believe that there is the possibility of bettering their lives. Many of them expect to lead lives of poverty in poorly-paying jobs when they actually have the potential to far surpass their own expectations. Reading the work of others such as in "Hondureños para llevar" and learning how to express themselves begins a domino effect which can create the better-educated more cohesive society which Honduras craves. Izaguirre also holds the hope that sometime in the future, "at the mention of Honduras, people will think of a famous Honduran writer like the link between England and Shakespeare."

Courtesy of Zack Clark
Skipper & Crew: Jorge Agurcia, Alfonso Martinez -Bordiu and Santiago Agurcia, Copa AHSA 2005, Invitational Regatta, Lago Yojoa.

Solo sailing-The only situation in which the skipper does not immediately blame the crew for every thing that goes wrong.
--H. Beard and R. McKie, A Lubber's Dictionary

During a regatta at the lake last year, I found that I was fighting to cross the starting line with another boat that was already out of the competition. It was the fourth race and this particular skipper - the one blocking my start - had placed last in the previous three. Therefore, since he was already out of the competition, he derived no obvious benefit by blocking my start. Or so I thought.

After the day's action that evening, I asked him why he hadn't yielded to my request for sea room. His answer was surprising: "I didn't need to." To my angry, bewildered look (and carefully eyeing the bottle in my hand) he added, "I wanted to let you pass, but my crew would have objected."

Later on two realizations came to mind.

I thought I needed to pass, wanted to pass and "desired" to pass that boat. But upon further reflection, I realized that I did not truly desire to pass because I had not made the necessary provisions to guarantee that I could. My needs, wants and desires were not aligned properly, and in an effort to evade my responsibility, I was looking to blame someone else.

Sun Tzu wrote that to defeat an enemy without fighting is the mark of a great general. True winners are people who vibrate at a higher frequency than others. Others perceive this extra energy. These "alpha persons" can be seen running companies, armies and countries. They have already spent a great deal of time in preparation - duly aligning any wants and desires with their need for power. Possible challengers pick this up.

When a challenger sizes up his opponent he perceives this higher frequency of vibration, and chooses to forgo a direct confrontation. For most, all of this occurs at an unconscious level. It is part of our fight or flight instinct. However, truly consummate politicians practice it at a very conscious, deliberate level - their success depends on it.

I like to call it the "Vice presidential slot decision," and it is about as pragmatic as Kant himself. When Lyndon B. Johnson was fighting JFK for the Democratic Party nomination, at some point before the casting of the first ballot at the Los Angeles Convention, he came to realize that Kennedy was going to win. Nevertheless, this had not been entirely clear during the state primaries.

It wasn't until the beginning of the convention that Johnson's strategy changed from seeking the nomination as candidate for President, to securing a Cabinet slot instead. And this decision meant he had to stop attacking JFK (the strategy for defeating him) and move towards a more aligned position, filled with conciliatory overtones, leaving the door open for Kennedy to approach him later and offer him a place in his Cabinet. Kennedy - being the true leader he was - did just that, offering him and securing from him the acceptance of the VP position.

Going back to my epiphany, and my second realization, this man and I had had a conflict on the water. He and I both knew that he was out of the race, and that not yielding to me (one of the contenders for first place) had been a source of precious power before his crew. He had exercised the power to make me lose, it was nothing personal, and he felt good about it. But he also knew that it had been unsportsmanlike - or else why was he worried about retribution from the business end of my cola bottle.

It is a fact that we can do very little to change or influence others. Trying to do so uses up precious energy, energy that might be put to better use into changing ourselves. James Redfield talks about this in his book, The Celestine Prophecy. In it, he dedicates an entire chapter to the struggle for power: "Too often humans cut themselves off from the greater source of our energy systems and so feel weak and insecure. To gain energy, we tend to manipulate or force others to give us attention and thus energy. When we successfully dominate others in this way, we feel more powerful, but they are left weakened and often fight back. Competition for scarce human energy is the cause of all conflict between people."

There are additional considerations, and these have to do with two opposing paradigms regarding power. One is the closed, vertical and authoritarian view. The other is the open, horizontal, liberal view. The latter proceeds from a paradigm of abundance. The former is based on a paradigm of scarcity.

The liberal mind conceives the world as a place open to countless possibilities, filled with endless sources of energy, where the pursuit of control is as futile as that of immortality. Life is not a zero sum, dog-eat-dog, proposition. This mindset often conceives of win-win arrangements and strives to establish empowerment by the sharing of knowledge and information.

The other dictates that power is limited and must be taken by force (active violence). It prefers opacity to transparency (passive violence). It is never open to accountability, and much less to horizontal structures. It holds that leaders are not to be followed but obeyed. Supporters, who by definition are potential adversaries, are to be given the "mushroom treatment", i.e. keep them in the dark and feed 'em waste.

A man I used to respect very much - for what I used to perceive as his leadership qualities - once shared with me his hallmark scarcity thesis: "Power is such that if I don't use it, somebody else will." Although his principles regarding power were solid, he was betrayed by his paradigms. He has since presided over the impoverishment of his stockholders - putting several companies into bankruptcy. In his lonely conception of reality, his impotence is now framed by the sad memory of his conquests.

A great thinker once wrote - apropos of these two paradigms - "True poverty does not reside in the scarcity of material goods, but in the particular mindset that such scarcity breeds."

As the sun is setting on another glorious day in paradise, I am blessed with company of friends and family for a happy hour celebration. The menu is frozen margaritas, nacho style chips with a homemade salsa, followed by grilled "blackened" chicken tacos.

The secret to a great margarita is blending fresh limejuice and simple syrup into a sweet-n-sour mix. To this mixture we add Grand Marnier and Tequila. The recipe is in proportions and given for a full batch in a quart sized blender.

Fill the blender with ice, add 5 ounces of tequila and 2 ounces of Grand Marnier or triple sec. Add 1 cup of fresh squeezed lime juice and 1/3 cup of simple syrup, a touch of salt and blend until smooth. I like to use a simple syrup instead of plain sugar; mix equal parts of white sugar and water in a small pot, bring to a boil, and then reduce by ½ the volume. Allow this mixture to cool before using.

Here is a quick and easy recipe for homemade salsa also given in proportions. 5-4-3-2-1. Five parts whole tomatoes, four more parts of whole tomatoes, 3 parts onion, 2 parts green pepper and one part cilantro. Place ingredients in a food processor and pulse until chopped medium dice. Season with salt, cracked pepper and lime juice. Hot peppers are optional. For optimal results, prepare this salsa in advance and refrigerate for a couple hours to allow the flavors to marry.

The seasoning blend for the chicken tacos is also a 5-4-3-2-1 ratio. Take 5 parts chili powder, 4 parts thyme, 3 parts ground black pepper, 2 parts garlic powder and 1 part sugar. Mix well. Using a boneless, skinless breast of chicken, coat both sides with the seasoning mixture and cook over an open grill. Slice thin and serve with warm tortillas. Garnish your tacos with chopped quesillo, mantequilla crema, and your fresh, home made salsa.

Questions or comments? Contact Daniel O'Connor at

culinary_adventures@hotmail.com

CULTURAL EVENTS

ART

WOMEN IN THE ARTS - Mujeres en las Artes. One of the strongest artistic movements in Tegucigalpa. Mujeres en la Artes Leticia de Oyuela constantly sponsors workshops, exhibitions, conferences, art shows and community events in the city. For the complete schedule, log on to www.muaartes.org.hn or contact Veronica Romero at 222 3015.

HONDURAS VISUAL ARTS BIENNIAL. June 5th thru 27th. For more information contact: info@muuartes.org.hn

VOICES AND SONGS OF HONDURAS. National identity audio. Saturdays, 9:00 a.m - 10:00 1.m. at H.R.N. (92.9 F.M.)

ECOLOGICAL ADVENTURES IN HONDURAS. Children aimed by adults. Saturdays, 10:00 a.m. - 10:30 a.m at H.R.N. (92.9 F.M.)

TERCO CULTURAL PRODUCTIONS. Contact them, they always have info on cultural activities.

E-mail:tercoproducciones@gmail.com. Visit www.karlalara.com

PROYECTO GRITON ACTIVITIES. Visit

www.proyectogriton.com and focus on KUPIAKUMI, you’ll find the daily logbook of the activities of this cultural group.

CULTURAL ACTIVITIES- Cafe Paradiso (downtown) is always performing cultural activities. Contact paradiso@cablecolor.hn

PAINTING CLASSES FOR ADULTS AND CHILDREN- Saturdays 10 a.m. - 12 p.m. Honduran Institute of Hispanic Culture, north side of American School. Contact 235-4463, visit www.culturahispanicahn.org

INFORMATION ABOUT CULTURAL ACTIVITIES- Contact contacto@rds.org.hn

NATIONAL LIBRARY INSTALLATIONS FOR EVENTS- These installations are appropriate for book presentations, expositions, conferences and any other cultural events.

VISIT AN EXCELLENT WEB SITE- The Association Women in the Arts, Aid Center and Visual Arts is inviting you to visit the web site: www.instala.hn. You will find information on different art activities.

ENDESA SCHOLARSHIPS. The ENDESA- Foundation in collaboration with the Spanish Ministry of Culture convokes scholarships for Latinamerican candidates.The main objective is to promote the Cultural Heritage. For more information contact www.mcu.es

MUSIC & DANCE LIVE MUSIC, 60/70's- Restaurants Pa-pa Chacalín at Blvd. Morazán. For more information contact bigbbang_arte@yahoo.com

“ A NIGHT WITH MOZART” CONCERT CELEBRATING MOTHER’S DAY. The Philharmonic Association of Honduras is presenting this event. Invitation cards: Lps. 200.00, includes wine and snacks at the end of the concert. Clarion Hotel, thursday May 25th from 7:00 p.m. For more information contact> afcoralh@yahoo.com

GUILLERMO ANDERSON AT CONCERT-DINER. The International Organism Ladies Committee (CODOI) are sponsoring this event, benefitting the Children Burned Unit of School Hospital. May 25th, Marriott Hotel, 4:00 p.m. General Entrance Lps. 500.00

SECOND CENTRAL AMERICAN PRESENTATION OF EMERGING ART- The Contemporary Art and Design Museum of San José, Costa Rica invites Central Americans and foreign residents in Central America to participate in this event. For more information contact the Cultural Office at the Spanish Embassy, Col. Palmira, Colombia St. Tegucigalpa. Tel: 232-2019; or visit www.madc.ac.cr

THE TREASURE THAT YOU HAVE: EL TESORO QUE TIENES- The new CD of Guillermo Anderson, produced with the support of the Rio Platano Biosphere Project and the German Cooperation Agency (GTZ). The Misquito artist Juan Cooper is the guest of honor. For information contact 550-3105

SABOR CUBANO- Come and enjoy the best Latin Rhythms: Salsa, Merengue, and Rumba. Every Friday at Restaurant-Bar: "Sabor Cubano" Learn how to dance with the best dancers in town and enjoy the original "Mojito Cubano"! Colonia Palmira, No. 1933, half a block from Taco Taco. For more information call: 235-9947.

EXCELLENT LIVE MUSIC-Fridays and Saturdays at Restaurant El Corral, Col. Alameda. Meats are their specialty.

MUSEUMS & GARDENS

MISCELLANEOUS

USA EMBASSY SCHOLARSHIPS- For more information contact Ledy Pacheco, information specialist. pachecoLC@state.gov or 236-9309

SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM OF CAROLINA FOUNDATION (SPAIN)- Specially for young university undergraduates, for more information contact and visit www.fundacioncarolina.es

SWEDISH SCHOLARSHIPS- For Ph.D and post Ph.D. studies or for Master programs. Visit www.studyinsweden.se or contact the Swedish Institute, Box 7434 SE-103, 91 Stockholm, Sweden.

2006 XVIII AWARD "KING JUAN CARLOS I, CONVOCATTION- It's a historical studies award. Every work on historical times, from Honduras and Central America will be considered. Economics, language and ethnic subjects are of interest also. Contact:Spanish Embassy in Tegucigalpa: 236-6875

SCHOLARSHIPS OFFERED BY AUSTRIA INVESTIGATIONS CENTERS. The Ministry of Education, Science and Culture of Austria offers scholarships of studying and investigation, pre-graduated and Master studies, Doctorates, contact www.grants.at

UNIVERSITY OF SALAMANCA SCHOLARSHIPS. For students at Spain and Latin American. For information contact> ncariasmontiel@yahoo.com

BOOK FAIR. Downtown Tegucigalpa. May 25,26 and 27. Organized by PROESCATEDEL Committee.

XVIII SCIENTIFIC WEEK AT UNAH. The National Autonomous University of Honduras is organizing this scientific event. From September 25th thru 29th. Abstract final presentation until July 15th. For more information contact: Isabel Sandoval: masais2003@yahoo.com

"Stir it up, little darling, stir it up. Come on and stir it up, little darling, stir it up"

I enjoy listening to music when working in the kitchen and when Caribbean cuisine is the theme of the dinner it is the reggae tunes that get my rhythm going. My all time favorite song when cooking island recipes is Bob Marley´s Stir it Up. I spent some time in Negril, Jamaica, last week and would like to share with you one of the national dishes that has become quite popular in many Caribbean islands, including the Bay Islands of Honduras. This recipe is more of a cooking process and a technique that can be used with a variety of meats. Be forewarned that this it is not for the weak stomach, as it can become very spicy depending on the amount of time the seasoning is exposed to the product. For pork it can be rubbed and marinated for 30 minutes before cooking, for poultry, fish and seafood I strongly suggest a LIGHTER hand and to begin cooking immediately after the seasoning is applied.

During my recent visit to Jamaica, I had the pleasure to sample at least a dozen varieties of Jerk chicken, pork and seafood from some of the finest restaurants to some of the simplest roadside open-pit vendors. The careful process of slowly smoking highly seasoned meat, poultry and seafood over a smoldering rustic pit of pimento wood and coals is known in Jamaica simply as "Jerk". The seasoning is a delightfully spicy blend of herbs, spices, garlic, onion and hot pepper that is rubbed into the meat prior to cooking. My sources in Jamaica explained that the key to cooking Jerk was a "lazy" fire of hard woods that allows the product to cook in its own juices.

The principal ingredients of jerk seasoning are Scotch bonnet chile pepper, thyme, onion and garlic. The Scotch bonnet is a variety of habanero peppers that ranges in color from green to yellow to red, often mixed depending on the ripeness of the pepper. Habanero chiles are some of the hottest peppers in the world and according to the Scoville Chart they are approximately 1,000 times hotter than the jalapeño. If you can't find Scotch bonnets in your local grocer or market, you can substitute mutton peppers, which are more readily available here in Honduras. Removing the skin and seeds will reduce the heat. As with all hot peppers, please use rubber gloves when handling and cutting, keep you mouth closed while chopping to avoid inhaling the fumes, and wash your hands with lemon juice after handling.

Jerk Seasoning

4 tablespoons onion fine dice

2 tablespoons of garlic fine

dice

2 tablespoons of scotch bonnet

peppers fine dice, no seeds

2 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme

2 teaspoons ground allspice

2 teaspoons ground paprika

1 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 tablespoons of raisins fine

dice "plumped in rum"

Mix all ingredients in a bowl; the texture should be like a moist paste. Refrigerate seasoning overnight to allow the different ingredients to marry. To prepare the meat for cooking, simply rub the seasoning over the product and smoke-cook over a low heat. Serve straight from the grill. Remember the Tamarind Infused Mango-Pineapple Chutney we discussed several weeks ago? This is a perfect accompaniment to this dish. And by the way, do not forget a few ice cold Red Stripe beers, you may need then too!!

"Oh, will you quench me when I'm thirsty

Come and cool me down, baby, when I'm hot

Your recipe, darling, is so tasty

And you sure can stir your pot, so

Stir it up, little darling,

stir it up

Come on and stir it up, little darling, stir it up"

Catch a Fire by Bob Marley and the Wailers, 1973

Questions or comments?

E-mail me at

culinary_adventures@hotmail.com

CULTURAL EVENTS

ART

WOMEN IN THE ARTS - Mujeres en las Artes. One of the strongest artistic movements in Tegucigalpa. Mujeres en la Artes Leticia de Oyuela constantly sponsors workshops, exhibitions, conferences, art shows and community events in the city. For the complete schedule, log on to www.muaartes.org.hn or contact Veronica Romero at 222 3015.

JULIO SABALA, THE IMITATOR IN A PRESENTATION. Madness night, at National Engineer Coliseum. Saturday, May 13rd, 7:00 p.m. VIP Lps. 1000, Chair: Lps. 500.00 and genera entrance Lps 200.00

VOICES AND SONGS OF HONDURAS. National identity audio. Saturdays, 9:00 a.m - 10:00 1.m. at H.R.N. (92.9 F.M.)

ECOLOGICAL ADVENTURES IN HONDURAS. Children aimed by adults. Saturdays, 10:00 a.m. - 10:30 a.m at H.R.N. (92.9 F.M.)

TERCO CULTURAL PRODUCTIONS. Contact them, they always have info on cultural activities. E-mail:

tercoproducciones@gmail.com. Visit www.karlalara.com

PROYECTO GRITON ACTIVITIES. Visit

www.proyectogriton.com and focus on KUPIAKUMI, you’ll find the daily logbook of the activities of this cultural group.

CULTURAL ACTIVITIES- Cafe Paradiso (downtown) is always performing cultural activities. Contact paradiso@cablecolor.hn

PAINTING CLASSES FOR ADULTS AND CHILDREN- Saturdays 10 a.m. - 12 p.m. Honduran Institute of Hispanic Culture, north side of American School. Contact 235-4463, visit www.culturahispanicahn.org

INFORMATION ABOUT CULTURAL ACTIVITIES- Contact contacto@rds.org.hn

NATIONAL LIBRARY INSTALLATIONS FOR EVENTS- These installations are appropriate for book presentations, expositions, conferences and any other cultural events.

VISIT AN EXCELLENT WEB SITE- The Association Women in the Arts, Aid Center and Visual Arts is inviting you to visit the web site: www.instala.hn. You will find information on different art activities.

ENDESA SCHOLARSHIPS. The ENDESA- Foundation in collaboration with the Spanish Ministry of Culture convokes scholarships for Latinamerican candidates.The main objective is to promote the Cultural Heritage. For more information contact www.mcu.es

V EUROPEAN FILM FESTIVAL. From May 11 to Thursday May 18th at Multicines Plaza Miraflores . Saturday, May 13rd, 7:00 p.m. “The Cave”, a film from Netherlands, Sunday , May 14th, 7:00 a.m.“The Truth about Savolta Issue” a film from Italy. Monday, 7:00 p.m., May 15th, “800 bullets”, a Spanish film. Tuesday, May 16th, “Rebel Love” a film from Sweden. 7:00 a.m. Wednesday, May 17th, “ Free Zone” a German film. Thursday, May 18th, 7:00 p.m. “Men’s Heart” a film from France. For more information contact Juan. ZARATIEGUI@ cec.edu.int

Sai•ling 1. n. the fine art of getting wet and becoming ill while slowly going nowhere at great expense.

--H. Beard and R. McKie, A Lubber's Dictionary

Photo taken by Jorge Agurcia's friend after he dragged himself onto shore in Chachahuate, while Agurcia is taking notes for this article.
Courtesy of Jorge Agurcia

Cayos Cochinos (Hog Keys) are 18 nautical miles north by northeast from Boca Vieja, La Ceiba. This, by the way, is where the marinas - including the ferry dock - are located. The keys are composed of two large islands and thirteen smaller keys scattered around the southeastern approaches.

There is a small research station on the smaller of the two large keys, originally established by the Smithsonian Institution. Along the north side, on the same key, lays the most beautiful, peach-colored, virgin sand beach in Honduras. A barrier reef makes it inaccessible from the ocean, except for smaller vessels. Permits may be obtained (for research purposes, of course) to access the beach from land.

The largest key, Cochino Grande, is mostly privately owned. A small dive resort occupies one of its coves, with a protected anchorage facing south towards the Honduran north coast. A forest, home to the "pink boa" (a light brown colored snake that grows to several feet), covers the entire island.

The other smaller keys are mostly deserted, though fishermen will set up temporary lean-tos making them their base during certain times of the year. The only exception is Chachahuate, which hosts a permanent settlement some two hundred strong.

There are three or four mooring buoys on the leeward side of this key. But once the afternoon Trades get whipped up, the island is not tall enough to cast an adequate wind shadow. This makes any effort at tying up difficult. Fortunately, some of the children on the key are happy to swim out and "help" any stressed sailor during this maneuver. On the mainland this translates into the ubiquitously passive extortion: "Le cuido el carro, jefe?"

I once visited this key with a photographer friend. After some haggling with the children to determine the price for their "help" at tying up, we managed a mooring. Since the winds were strong and I had not yet satisfied my qualms about the decidedly feeble look of the buoy, I told my friend I would stay on while he ventured shore wise to get his pictures.

A disinherited looking fellow had already jumped into his cayuco and made for our boat. As he paddled a weaving course to us, I noticed that something was not right. Later, upon closer contact, the smell of guaro was overpowering - even in that weather. My friend and I exchanged looks, but we both knew this was the only way to shore without having to swim.

The drunkard demanded a forty-dollar ferrying fee. My friend negotiated him down into accepting two cold beers (worth gold to him) and five bucks. I packed his equipment into no less than two plastic bags, certain that my buddy could survive a plunge but not so the cameras. Sure enough, some ten feet from making landfall the drunkard allowed his diminished balance to take over the dory while he adopted the role of garrulous tour guide for the benefit of my politely bereft buddy.

To the cheers of onlookers, my mate looked like a burdened Marine swimming ashore: hauling himself, cayuco, soaked drunkard, beer cans, and floating plastic bag packed with expensive cameras and lenses. The lush - in somewhat sobered temper - thanked my friend, slapped him in the back and quickly snatched the beers. My mate sat on the sand for a few minutes and reflected on the experience, chuckling on his own, as I looked on from Chelsea, relishing this phenomenon of human behavior, and took notes for the purpose of this very article.

The archipelago is a marine park, protected and maintained by a private foundation with the aid of the Honduran Naval authorities. Visitors must pay a visiting fee (which as in all of Honduras may vary, depending on the mood of the fellow collecting it and whether or not the payer looks foreign). Anchoring anywhere in the park - be it sandy bottom or be it reef - is strictly prohibited. This is certainly a good thing. Unfortunately, the only moorings available - other than the three at Chachahuate - are in front of the resort on Cochino Grande. So if you don't want to play the part of the drunk looking for his lost keys under the only streetlamp for miles, and you want to snorkel or scuba on one of the smaller keys, you must beach your boat and risk loosing gel coat.

Sailing from La Ceiba to Cayos takes a good deal of tacking, since the prevailing south easterlies are head-on, on your bow. Motoring is, for once, an attractive alternative. But the return trip is a marvelous run, made even more thrilling by a following sea. Chelsea makes good some 6-7 knots, so it takes me about three hours out, and about the same back. I suggest one leave La Ceiba as early as possible, to avoid the unpleasantness of having to smack into the waves, which begin to form around midmorning.

Closest to the keys, on the mainland, is the village of Nueva Armenia, only eleven nautical miles on a beeline to the south. Most of the settlers and fishermen on the keys make daily trips between these two points, whether moving merchandise and wares, or visiting. I have seen many a cayuco raise makeshift sail and head out from Chachahuate towards the coast.

The thing about these dugouts is that they only sit about half a foot above the sea. And most of them take on water every time a diminutive sea passes by. Their crews are not only brave, but make amazing use of their dried calabashes to bail; they can certainly put my bilge pump to shame.

"I love cooking with wine; sometimes I even use it in my recipes."

Great food begins with great ingredients and cooking with wine is no exception. I have two culinary commandments about cooking with wine: First, if you won't drink it, don't cook with it and second, all wine used in cooking must be used in the form of a reduction.

The first commandment is all about quality. If the quality of the wine is undrinkable, save it for vinegar; but please don't cook with it. The second commandment says all wine used in cooking must be reduced in the sauce or dish you are cooking to extract the essence of the flavor without overpowering the dish.

Today I would like to share with you a Bay Island Bouillabaisse or fish soup made with local fish and seafood. The key to this recipe is utilizing the shells from the shrimp and lobster to make a rich and flavorful stock that is enriched with a white wine reduction. I always keep a stockpile of shrimp and lobster shells in the freezer to use as a base ingredient for seafood stocks and soups. The stock is flavored with onions, garlic, celery, dry white wine, and herbs. And remember, when making a stock, always use cold water and bring to a boil and immediately reduce to a gentle simmer. Fish and seafood stock only need about 30 minutes of simmering to achieve maximum flavor. It is also important to cut all the vegetables for your stock into small pieces, as the cooking time is reduced and to achieve optimal results with this dish, the shorter the cooking time, the smaller the product being cooked. We have discussed stocks in previous columns so I will not go into detailed stock preparation for this column.

Once the stock is prepared (can be prepared in advance and kept frozen) the fun begins. Assembling ingredients for this dish means trips to the local fish markets and grocers. I will typically use lobster, shrimp, snapper, grouper and an oily fish like tuna, wahoo or mackerel when available. I like to give this dish an island touch by adding conch and calamari, and reef crab when I can find it. I have also had some success finding stone crab claws from both the south coast and Belize. Recently I have been able to supplement the shellfish with imported green mussels from New Zealand and clams from China which are found in the frozen food sections of some of the grocers in the capital and San Pedro Sula. In addition to the seafood, I will add peeled and seeded tomatoes, onions, leeks, garlic, parsley and thyme. The soup is served with long strips of toasted French bread and accompanied by a dry white wine.

Bay Island Bouillabaisse

10-12 portions

4 liters of seafood stock

1 lb shrimp (peeled and cleaned) sized 21-25 per pound

1 lb lobster tail meat

1 lb snapper fillet

1 lb grouper fillet

1 lb tuna or wahoo fillet

½ lb conch cracked and cut into small dice

½ calamari, cleaned and cut into ½ inch rings

2-3 mussels per person

2-3 clams per person

4 oz whole butter

3 cups onion fine dice

3 cups leeks fine dice

4 cups tomatoes peeled and seeded, medium dice

8-10 garlic cloves, fine mash

½ cup parsley, washed and chopped fine

4 teaspoons thyme

1-2 mutton peppers fine dice

3 cups dry white wine

salt, pepper to taste

2 loaves of French bread cut into 12" x 2" x 1" strips which are basted with olive oil and thyme and toasted golden brown in the oven.

Cut fish and shellfish into spoon size portions and organize by order of thickness as the thicker pieces go into the pot sooner as they require more cooking time. In a large pot, melt butter and add onion, celery and garlic, sweat-sauté over medium heat until translucent, cooking without color. Add tomato, parsley, thyme and mutton peppers, add white wine and reduce liquid by ½ the volume. Add the seafood stock, bring to the boil and reduce to a gentle simmer, reduce liquid by 1/3 before adding the seafood. Begin to add seafood according to size and thickness - everything in this dish should be spoon size or smaller, but the fish and seafood may have varying thickness. The thicker or denser product goes into the pot first. As you add the cold product to the hot liquid, the temperature in the pot reduces, therefore it is important to adjust your heat to maintain the gentle simmer motion in the pot. Stir occasionally. Conch, calamari, tuna or wahoo, lobster and shrimp go first, bring temperature back up to a simmer, followed by snapper and grouper, bring to a simmer again, and finally the clams and mussels since these are typically sold on the half shell and cook rapidly. Continue to simmer until all is cooked, approximately ten more minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve piping hot in a deep bowl garnished with the toasted French bread sticks.

Comments or questions?
culinary_adventures@hotmail.com

Beauty, art and culture at Bellas Artes in West Bay Beach

Jeanine Padilla
Special to Honduras This Week

Jeanine Padilla
Bella Wilshire with friends at Bellas Artes.

The beauty of West Bay Beach has been accentuated by the arrival of Bella Wilshire to Roatan. After years of adventurous travel, Bella arrived in Roatan five years ago and finally felt like she'd arrived home. She fell in love immediately with the natural beauty of the island and its people. The seed of the idea of 'Bellas Artes' was sown from the very first day on the island, when she first laid eyes on the house that is now her home, studio, gallery and cafe.

Trained in Public Art at Chelsea School of Art in London, England, Bella has worked as a mural artist all over the world, including a massive 1600 square foot mural here in Honduras at the university, UNAH, in Tegucigalpa; part of an international public arts project initiated by the UN and the Ministry of Culture: 'Arte Para Todos'. Projects like these, art workshops for charities as well as the work she does for the West End -Sandy bay Marine Reserve are all part of her philosophy; that art is indeed for everyone and is also an effective method of educating people about important issues.

Strong environmental themes underlay her work which she hopes will inspire people to fight against uncontrolled development and environmental degradation. Bella draws on her experience as a dive master and sailor to evoke beautiful, often abstract images of the underwater world. Her love of nature and the color and vibrancy of the tropics is reflected in her striking paintings.

Over 300 people attended the Grand Opening of "Bellas Artes Studio Gallery" last month. Twenty internationally acclaimed and emerging artists from Central America and Cuba participated in the exhibition showcasing over 100 works of art. Renowned Honduran artists Julio Visquerra, Ivan Fiallos, Samuel Oviedo, Wilmer Sandre and Juan Pablo Delgado came from Tegucigalpa to attend and participate in the opening.

Other artists exhibiting included: Bella Wilshire, Nicole Belvedere, Myriam Piquion, Phil Dugher, Mauricio Garay, El Aleph, Martha Sanchez, Katie Riley, Julio Reyes and Moncada. Artists and guests alike were delighted with the beautiful gallery space as well as the incredibly diverse and vibrant work.

A festival mood filled the night as "Between the Sheets" played their original music under the tropical night sky in the gardens, followed by a fashion show by Suzie Ebanks of "Gypsea Wear" and an exciting fire dancing exhibition by "Caribbean Flame". Gourmet appetizers, BBQ and an open bar completed the celebrations, provided by Becky Martinez of "The Galley" fame in West End, now branching out to open "Starfish Coffee" at the gallery.

Artist and owner Bella Wilshire was thrilled with the response from the local community, artists and visitors. "I've tried to create a place with a very special and unique atmosphere on the island. A place where people from all walks of life can come and appreciate beauty, whether it be in nature or in art. Judging from the response so far of it seems to be something the island needed. I feel very honored to have the opportunity to share what I love with so many people. People often refer to artists as having a 'gift': it feels wonderful to be able to give something back."

With comfortable sofa seating on the breezy deck and in the beautiful tropical gardens, this is certainly a relaxing place to linger over a cappuccino and indulge in a delicious home-baked dessert; browse the extensive book exchange and library; and of course, to come and enjoy the constantly changing artwork. Located on the main road just seconds from West Bay Beach it is an idyllic escape from the often overcrowded beach, and as the days heat up it is fast becoming known as a cool place to hang out.

Bella is now busy arranging her next big show, "Fiesta Cubana," an exhibition of Cuban and Cuban-inspired paintings and sculptures to be held on Sunday May 21st. Following in the grand style of the Opening there will be live Cuban music and cooking and, of course, mojitos.

Jeanine Padilla
Creative Spirit, a painting by British artist Bella Wilshire who recently opened a gallery in West Bay Roatan.

More information can be found on

www.bellasartesroatan.com

gallery@bellasartesroatan.com

Tel: 359-2462

If music be the food of love, Playero on

George Reynolds
Honduras This Week

George Reynolds/Honduras This Week
Nilo Espinal of ADN and Carlos Escalante, manager er of Bullaka Musik

The house just off Boulevard Los Proceres seems an unlikely location for one of Tegucigalpa's most successful production companies, but for two years it has been the place the Bullaka Musik has called home. One of the few well-established companies of its kind in the capital - most are found in the more international San Pedro Sula - Bullaka Musik devotes itself to the production and management of national artists, and is also responsible for promoting and organizing the tours and gigs of visiting artists, among them famous names like Hector el Bambino and Daddy Yankee. With a small staff of just ten, the workload is high, but a passion for music - from Rock to Reggaeton - provides all the motivation they need.

Although Bullaka produces rock records as well, it is a name associated primarily with reggaeton. The Honduran reggaeton scene is still very much in its infancy, and reggaeton itself has barely been around for more than a decade. It started in Panama, where the Playero scene was the first to blend reggae's rhythms with Hip-Hop's beats and lyrics. Over the years, it evolved in Puerto Rico (the current Mecca for reggaeton fans), and has developed into something almost totally different from its precursor. It slowly made its way to the USA, with Miami a particular hotbed, and the international profile was raised immensely with the success of Luney Tunes - still one of the most revered figures on the scene. A few years ago, reggaeton exploded in Honduras, with shows in San Pedro Sula and the emergence of artists across the country - it was no longer an underground genre. Hondurans like DJ Sy and El Pueblo command a sizeable following, and not just in their home country. Overall, the reggaeton scene has leapt very much onto the public agenda; the music made now has a sheen of professionalism that was sorely lacking three or four years ago: the records are better produced; the raps are stronger; the beats are more innovative - Reggaeton has its own image.

Carlos "Bullaka" Escalante, manager of the label, is optimistic about Honduras' latest musical craze: "Reggaeton is here to stay. It will keep going and grow and grow; of course it needs to keep evolving to continue to attract its audience, but you see kids on the street singing 'Dame más gasolina' and you know this is something they're going to grow up with. Plus, this is our music - it's Latino hip hop. It means a lot to be able to call a genre your own."

The future of the genre, perhaps, rests in the hands of the next person I talk to. He is about five feet tall, has an unbroken voice, and involves his mother in contract discussions. He is 13 year-old Maynor MC, and the Honduran public love him. He was discovered at a show promoted by Carlos, when audience members were invited to come onstage and freestyle. Carlos noticed a native talent in the boy, and invited him to the studio. After a few tests and checks, MC Maynor signed a three-year contract, and he currently tours the country, opening for established names.

It is stories like this - the dizzying speed of his ascent - that make you feel a little sorry for the final person I speak to at Bullaka Music. Nilo Espinal is the vocalist for ADN, Honduras' longest-lasting rock band, and also works as a producer for Bullaka. His band is undeniably successful - they were the first Central American group to get a video played on MTV - but as the reggaeton scene explodes, it must be frustrating to dedicate your life to a genre that - at first glance - is nowhere near as successful.

The Honduran rock scene is split neatly between commercial, radio-friendly rock and heavier groups. Most of the rock music in the country is imported from Europe, with bands like The Rasmus and Coldplay dominating the charts. Hondurans seem to crave accessibility, but, according to Nilo, there is only one thing that decides whether a song will sink or swim. "All they want to do is dance - they'll be perfectly happy listening to The Rasmus at a gig, but if someone puts on some Daddy Yankee, then they'll get up for that too." It must be a little irritating, knowing that to succeed you have to cut a fine balance between making the music other people want you to make and making the music you want to make. "The scene is a little stagnant - we need to revitalise it and give it the boost it needs."

Both Nilo and Carlos are clear on one thing, though: "rock music will never die in Honduras. It's a culture thing - we're a tropical people - and so rock is not that big here, but there are too many hardcore fans for that to happen. Sometimes we wonder, after a sold out gig, where they all came from, and you don't really know. It's almost like they're in hiding."

Two scenes - one just starting to find its feet internationally and the other - in the style of Spinal Tap - playing to more selective audiences. At Bullaka, Carlos is confident that his label's involvement in both can only be productive, and that the label itself will continue its early success. The next release from the label will be "Bullaka present Marcando Territorio", a collection of songs featuring international artists and those signed to the label. For Carlos and the others at Bullaka, as reggaeton enjoys a golden summer, the Spinal Tap message could not be more apposite. Have a good time…all the time.

George Reynolds/Honduras This Week
13 year old Maynor MC opens for more established Honduran artists.

The evolution of tequila has produced a number of $40, $50 and $60+ bottles of top shelf designer tequilas aimed at an up-market clientele. Applying technologies adapted from France's cognac industry, entrepreneurial Mexicans have repositioned tequila from a spring break shot of choice to a sophisticated sipping beverage that is best enjoyed with sangrita - a spicy tomato and fruit juice infused compliment. My re-introduction to tequila occurred during a visit to one of Mexico City's most famous restaurants, Hacienda Los Morelos. My wife and I had embarked on a benchmarking expedition with key staff members to Mexico City in an effort to identify true "first class" service in a Latin American culture. I was managing an award winning hotel property in Tegucigalpa at the time and I wanted to show our executive chef and food and beverage manager first hand what first class really meant. Sometime, during our five-hour lunch we became engrained in the Mexican Tequila culture.

Lunch at Hacienda Los Morelos is a wonderful experience; great food and service in an 100+ year old mansion with an atmosphere of an old world style private club. As we were seated, I noticed a table of four elderly ladies nearby. They were sipping their tequilas with a red, bloody mary-like drink as an aperitif. Throughout the lunch they enjoyed several more rounds of tequilas and the red beverage. Intrigued, I asked the maitre' D what they were drinking with the tequila and he explained that sangrita was perfect compliment to tequila and the better tequilas we made for sipping, like a fine cognac. True to our mission, that afternoon, we sampled several different sipping tequilas with sangrita. Over the next couple days of our trip we tried a multitude of designer tequilas with sangritas, and each bartender had a special way of making his signature sangrita. I have adapted some of these recipes into my own signature blend which I would like to share with you.

The sangrita is better if served chilled, and seems to improve with a little age, ideally chilling for about two hours before serving. This recipe calls for an unusual ingredient, a Chinese sweet chili pepper sauce that can be found in some supermarkets and most Chinese food stores. As with most of my recipes, use this as a guide and adjust quantities and seasoning for personal taste. Save the Jose Cuervo for margaritas and move up to Don Julio, Correlejo, Patron and Porfilio. Serve the chilled sangrita in equal quantities with your favorite designer tequila, albeit in separate glasses.

Quick Sangrita for Tequila

2 cups tomato juice

½ cup fresh squeezed orange juice

¼ cup fresh squeezed lime juice

3 tablespoons sweet chili

pepper sauce

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon celery salt

cracked pepper to taste

Stir ingredients until sugar dissolves, season to taste and chill for a least two hours before serving.

Comments or questions?
culinary_adventures@hotmail.com

Don Peat/Honduras This Week
Lake Yojoa is a center of energy where universal vibes are collected and maintained by some sort of invisible harmonic.

"For example, Nigel, it is sooth that for every collection of beasts of the forest, and for every gathering of birds of the air, there is their own private name so that none may be confused with another."

--Sir Nigel, Arthur Conan Doyle

Sailing in Lago de Yojoa has been a constant source of enjoyment for me ever since I was a teenager. I remember the first time I heard that someone was organizing a regatta in the lake, some 15 years ago. I immediately set out in my Suzuki jeep, with my girlfriend, sans sailboat, to see what it was all about. I figured somebody might need a crew.

My expectations were exceeded when Richard Joint offered to let me borrow his old Sunfish for the competition. I clearly remember Richard, Ernst Dittmann, Holger Peters and Leticia, and a few other folks. I also remember coming in sixth in a fleet of five boats (I did not finish a race, which penalized my position).

Driving back to Tegus that evening I felt great, despite being a very tired loser. I was convinced that the lake was a funnel for universal energy - the ancient Mayas seem to have thought this as well. My girlfriend even scratched my neck as we drove back - she is now my wife, and hasn't scratched my neck again since.

Since that time, I've bought a boat and have spent many hours sailing and competing in regattas in the lake. I've explored every inch of the northwest side; found the best coves, the best swimming areas, the best beaches and the best anchorages. Well, at least the ones that suit me the best.

I have beat against the northwest winds and had thrilling runs back to the marina. I've been shocked to wake up on a lee shore with a sudden midnight change of wind. I have sailed at night in fog, and up a moonbeam on a clear one. I have seen scary waterspouts ("Dear, what's that pretty thing up ahead? It looks like a tornado…") and sought refuge from scattered lightning. I've spent nights with my wife and three kids sleeping onboard under the Milky Way, rocked by water lapping at the hull and comforted by the lullaby of stream otters (perritos de agua) playing nearby. I've woken to still mornings with toucan filled trees.

The exuberant jungle on the far side, whose greens are noteworthy on a clear morning, has fed my wandering imagination with wicked doses of serenity.

As I said before, the lake - like a few others in Central America - is a center of energy. Universal vibes are collected into this ancient volcanic crater and maintained by some sort of invisible harmonic. Anybody who has spent time there can vouch for this. The ancient Maya banked on it and built a ceremonial center in nearby Los Naranjos.

Less subtly, the lake is home to over a couple hundred species of birds. I especially enjoy the snail hawks and the black egrets. Majestic birds. One time I was very lucky to see a huge white owl flying across one of the many glens that intersperse its banks. And then, of course, you have the ubiquitous pichiches, ducks and other types of noisy waterfowl.

When I was a kid, my dad used to tell me stories about the many alligators - most likely some species of South American caiman - that lived on the lake banks and in its tributaries. I have yet to see one. They have completely disappeared, killed no doubt by my fellow countrymen. Nowadays one would be hard pressed to find a lizard. Nevertheless, a few people I know swear the caimans are still there. This is never far from my mind, especially when my kids are swimming towards shore on the far side. But knowing my children, I should perhaps be more concerned about the gator.

I did see a large snake dangling from a tree once, and watched in horror as the beast dropped into the water about twenty yards from me, swimming fast and disappearing into the reeds in my flank.

Even to this day, I have been fortunate enough to have the lake all to myself. Very few boats are to be found there on any given Sunday - mostly rowboats from the fishing villages lying about. It is probably the only lake in the world where the banks are not filled with weekend houses for the rich and famous.

And those that do come prefer to stay out of the water.

In Honduras, people generally do not like water sports or swimming. Most city folks prefer to do day trips and spend their time in one of the myriad of champas (small restaurants) on the Comayagua - southern - side of the lake. Here they regularly feast on cholesterol bombs known as pescado frito, and beer.

During the 50s, Lake Yojoa was seeded with black bass, intended to draw sports fishermen. They soon populated the lake, competing with native species, but have, in turn, now been largely displaced by the oriental tilapia, which is farmed on floating pens for export to the international markets. Tilapia is an aggressive animal, which tends to escape its pens. They'll eat anything, including bass eggs.

Contrary to popular belief, the nearby mining operations are not responsible for the rising level of pollution in the lake. Lake Yojoa faces serious threats due to silting from small slashed and burned lots around it, fertilizer runoffs from larger farming operations, human waste from the champas and finally from excess amounts of feed concentrate spilling out into the water at the fish farms. In the last five years, I have witnessed the increasing presence of pelusa, a type of algae that reduces the water oxygen levels and blocks sunlight, and which - if not checked - will soon cover the entire surface of the lake.

Honduyate is still my favorite haunt, and is the only full service marina on the lake. I look forward to going back soon, and sitting up on deck at night to watch - in the company of the otter, the snake and the jaguar - a crescent moon dipping into the massif that rises above the western horizon.

CULTURAL EVENTS

MUSEUMS & GARDENS

TEGUCIGALPA 

MUSEO DE HISTORIA REPUBLICANA

The Museum of Republican History is located at the Villa Roy building in Tegucigalpa's Barrio Buenos Aries.  It is open 8:30 to 3:30, Tuesdays through Sundays and features portraits, paraphernalia, and other interesting items from past presidents.  Admission is Lps. 20 for non-resident foreigners and Lps. 10 for Hondurans and Central Americans.  For more information, call 222-3470 or 222-1468. 

CENTRAL BANK MUSEUM

The Central Bank of Honduras located at the Comayaguela annex building is open from 9 a.m. to noon and from 1 to 4 p.m., Monday to Friday.  It has a permanent coin and painting exhibit.  For special presentations, call the Emision y Tesoreria department at 237-2270 (-78), ext. 2117 (-2120). [CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE.] 

NATIONAL ART GALLERY

The Galeria Nacional de Arte features rock art, pre-Columbian ceramics, colonial paintings, religious art and a wide selection of 20th century Honduran painters.  The gallery is located at the Plaza de la Merced in downtown Tegucigalpa.  It is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10-5 p.m. and Sunday from 10-2 p.m.  Admission is Lps. 10 for adults, Lps. 5 for senior citizens, Lps. 3 for students and Lps. 1 for children accompanied by adults. 

IGUANA FARM

The Biosfera Ecocentro Iguana Farm in Colonia La Joya invites the public to come and learn everything about iguanas.  Admission is Lps. 5 for adults, Lps. 3 for children.  The facility is open every day (except Wednesday) from 9 to 5.  For more information, call 230-6346.

COMAYAGUA, COMAYAGUA 

COMAYAGUA MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY

Located in the city of Comayagua, two hours north of Tegucigalpa, the Comayagua Museum of Archaeology is in the building that served as the seat of government in the 19th century.  Exhibits include prehistoric fossils, cave art, ceramics, and objects used by indigenous cultures during the pre-Colombian era.  The museum, which also has a small library, is open to the public Tuesdays through Sundays from 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. 

COMAYAGUA RELIGIOUS MUSEUM

Located in the Casa Cural in front of Comayagua's cathedral, this museum features religious paintings and objects dating back to the 16th century.  Hours are 8-12 and 2-4 p.m., Mondays through Fridays.  For more information, contact Leonardo Letona at 772-0348.

LA PAZ, LA PAZ 

LA PAZ HOUSE OF CULTURE

The La Paz Casa de la Cultura is located in downtown La Paz.  It features an attractive exhibit of the Lenca handicrafts and culture.  It is open Mondays through Sundays.

SAN PEDRO SULA, CORTES 

SPS MUSEUM OF ANTHROPOLOGY AND HISTORY

The Museo de Antropologia e Historia de San Pedro Sula features exhibits on the development of Sula Valley, from 1500 B.C. to the middle of this century.  The museum is open 10 a.m. to 4:15 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays and 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Sundays.  Admission is Lps. 10 for adults, Lps. 5 for students and children under 12, and Lps. 2 for senior citizens.  For more information, call 557-1496/557-1798 or fax 557-1874. 

MUSEUM OF NATURE OF SAN PEDRO SULA

Sponsored and managed by the Fundacion Ecologista H.R. Pastor Fasquelle, this new museum was inaugurated last December in its current location at the Biocentro on 3 Avenida and 9 Calle Noroeste.  It has 24 exhibits on the environment, natural resources and biology of Honduras.  Hours are 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily and 8 a.m. until noon on Saturdays.  Admission is Lps 5 for students from public schools and Lps. 10.00 for everyone else.

YUSCARAN, EL PARAISO 

YUSCARAN HOUSE OF CULTURE

Yuscaran's Casa de la Cultura is located at the former Casa Fortin in downtown Yuscaran, El Paraiso department, just 45 km from Tegucigalpa on the road to Danli.  It is open Mondays through Saturdays.

OLANCHO 

PECH CULTURAL CENTER

The Pech have built a small house in El Carbon, Olancho to display their modern handicrafts.  An exhibit of archaeological finds in the area is planned.  You can ask to see the collection and/or get a tour of a Post Classic era fortified site.  The Pech Cultural Center also offers medicinal plant tours, nature hikes, Pech dinners, etc.  There is no admission fee to the cultural center.  Hours: If you ask, they will open it.

COPAN 

COPAN ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

Located in the village of Copan Ruinas, Copan department, the museum exhibits a splendid assortment of Mayan pieces that have been found in the Copan Ruins Archaeological Park just 1 km away.  

LA PUENTE ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

Featuring a sizeable collection of Mayan handicrafts and photographs as well as a room with Japanese antique ceramics, this museum is located at the El Puente Archaeological Site, about an hour's drive from Copan Ruinas. 

MAYAN SEPULTURAS MUSEUM

Inaugurated in 1996, this is the premier Mayan museum in the Mundo Maya, featuring the finest examples of Copan's tombs, sculptures and architecture.  Located at the Copan Ruins Archaeological Park, the museum is open Monday through Sunday.  

TELA, ATLANTIDA 

LANCETILLA BOTANICAL GARDENS

Located 2 kilometers from Tela on the Atlantic coast highway, the gardens feature one of the largest collections of tropical and subtropical plants, shrubs and trees in all Latin America.  It is open from 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Mondays through Sundays.  There is an admission charge.

LA CEIBA, ATLANTIDA 

TROPICAL BUTTERFLY FARM

The Tropical Butterfly Farm & Gardens of La Ceiba is open to the public Wednesday to Sunday, 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.  The farm is located at The Lodge at Pico Bonito in the village of El Pino, about 25 minutes west of La Ceiba.  Admission is Lps. 30 for adults, Lps. 15 for children and $6 for international visitors. 

BUTTERFLY AND INSECT MUSEUM

Thousands of butterflies and insects from Honduras and 18 other countries are on display in La Ceiba' private Butterfly and Insect Museum.  It is located in Colonia El Sauce, 2nd etapa, casa G-12.  Visiting hours are 8-12 and 2-5, Monday through Saturday.  The museum is closed Wednesday afternoon.  Fees are Lps. 15 for adults and Lps. 10 for students.  Tel. 442-2874, e-mail: rlehman@ns.gbm.hn

TRUJILLO 

TRUJILLO RUFINO GALAN MUSEUM

A private museum which has a memorabilia section, old chairs, anchors, silverware, beds of famous people locally.  There is an industrial archaeology section on how lights, axes, stoves, sewing machines, typewriters have changed over time.  They have a good collection of Garifuna handicrafts and the best collection of NE Honduras archaeological pieces -- all unmarked.  A written guide to the museum is available at the Trujillo Tourism Office in English and Spanish.  The museum is open 8 to 4, closing for lunch.  Adults Lps. 20, children Lps. 10.  Located on Calle 18 de Mayo, next to the Crystales River and the famous "piscina" or pool, about a 15-minute walk out of town.

ROATAN, THE BAY ISLANDS 

CARAMBOLA BOTANICAL GARDENS

h located in Sandy Bay, Roatan, Bay Islands.  A wide variety of exotic plants is featured here, including "Roatan's most extensive orchid collection."  It is open daily from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.  For more information, call 445-1117 and ask for Bill or Irma Brady. 

BAY ISLANDS MUSEUM

A private museum at Anthony's Key Resort, Sandy Bay, Roatan, Bay Islands, it mostly includes archaeological pieces, but there is a small section on the modern Bay Islanders.  Museum admission is included in the cost of the dolphin show at Anthony Key's Institute of Marine Sciences.  Small buses or taxis will take you to Sandy Bay from most Roatan towns.