These popular coiled junco baskets are from La Arada and sold at 
Yahamela in Santa Barbara. (Photo by Wendy Griffin)

By WENDY GRIFFIN

Most souvenir shops in Honduras carry handicrafts from the department of Santa Barbara. While junco (jipijapa) straw hats and baskets are the department's most famous exports, corn husk dolls and flowers, palm leave baskets, mats made from a reed called tule and mescal are other important crafts.

Getting to the places where these crafts are made is a challenge, especially since Hurricane Mitch. The COTISBA bus company covers the San Pedro Sula-Santa Barbara route. However, the bridge over the Ulua River at Ilama was washed out by Mitch. A temporary bridge was put up, but the supports for that bridge were also washed out during the 1999 rainy season.

So now visitors go to Ilama, walk down the bank, take a small motor boat across the river, and then climb up a very steep bank to catch another bus to Santa Barbara. For those who drive, there is a back way from a turn off to Santa Barbara south of Lake Yojoa on the Tegucigalpa-San Pedro Sula highway.

The ride to Ilama passes through shade grown coffee, while the Yojoa route passes through more forest. Santa Barbara is second in coffee growing in Honduras after El Paraiso. No high quality coffee is offered to tourists here, in contrast to Copan Ruinas, Santa Rosa de Copan and Marcala, which now offer local gourmet coffee.

In traditional Pech, Garifuna and Nahuatl villages, there are people in the same community who specialize in different crafts such as basket and rope making and pottery. In contrast, the villages around Santa Barbara are specialized. Ceguaca is where junco hats are made. Nispero and Ceguaca make reed mats. Nueva Celilac is the center for corn husk dolls. In Ocotal and Santa Rita, women weave junco, while in La Arada a women's cooperative makes coiled junco baskets, according to employees of the Yahamela store in Santa Barbara.

This store is an activity of Centro Hibueras. For 11 years, this store has helped artisans take their products to Miami (Florida), Mexico and Central America. One hundred and fifty women benefit from this program. Some artisans, like two women of La Arada, also distribute their products through the National Association of Honduran Artisans (ANAH), which has shops in Parque Central, Copan Ruinas and at El Triangulo, Parque El Obelisco (Comayaguela). A school for artisans has operated in Santa Barbara, similar to the one that used to function in Valle de Angeles.

The people of Santa Barbara are called pateplumas (people with feathers on their feet) because of how fast they ran away from press gangs who tried to recruit them by force to serve in the army. Sometimes, though, it seems to refer to their efficiency in their sales of crafts. The women's cooperative for junco baskets in La Arada is especially active. (Buses going to La Arada are at Santa Barbara's park or below at the bridge.)

Junco was brought from Ecuador in the 19th century, according to Nuestra Tierra, a newspaper dedicated just to Santa Barbara and sold in San Pedro Sula souvenir shops. In recounting the history, the paper explains the men originally worked as junco weavers, but the government complained the men were neglecting agriculture. Instead, the women should stop wandering the street and weave junco or else they should be forced to help build the army barracks (presidio).

Santa Barbara has several hotels, including the Colonial Hotel and the Boarding House. They were adequate -- although somewhat noisy -- and cost under Lps. 200.

The highlight of our trip was eating at Mason Casa Blanca, which is mentioned in guidebooks as Dona Ana's. Near the center of town, it is large and has a comfortable decor. Their dinner includes smoked pork chops (chuleta), marmahon (small pasta beads in a sauce), boiled banana, sour cream, beans and hot corn tortillas. For breakfast, substitute eggs for pork chops and add juice and coffee. For Lps. 60 you feel like you have been out to eat. The restaurant also feature most Honduran snack foods.

By GEORGE AGURCIA FASQUELLE

IV

RN SUNDAY EVENING TOAST:

Here's to absent friends and those at sea.

The origin of the words starboard and port is at best elusive -- and perhaps trivial to some. I am trying to be unassuming. This type of introduction offers other unassuming folks the opportunity to move on to the real estate section with the haste of a personal watercraft owner  not that PWC owners don't use the words, they often do; it is an ever-aberrant effort at kinship.

A real sailor would never set foot on a PWC -- a.k.a. waverunner, jetski, Sea-Doo, two-stroke environmental menace, etc. -- well, at least not without spitting twice.

Anyway, billious machines notwithstanding, back to the source of the words starboard and port. One story has it that Vikings would customarily place their steering oar or "steer-board" on the right-hand side of their long-ships. Since the steer-board was fastened to that particular side, they were forced to come up to any pier or dock -- to off-load people and cargo -- on the other side, thus port to left and starboard to the right.

Another tale speaks of the old Iberian tall ships carrying their cargo thus: port (wine) on the left side of the hold, and the rest of the stuff on the right. This particular account doesn't hold much water, and was probably originated after a few too many draughts of port.

Well, whatever the origin, the words have stuck. They've even been adopted into the air and space realm  now, here we can discuss kindred spirituality, naturally (you must read Airborne by Bill Buckley some time). One thing remains a fact: as soon as folks get on-board, they get that irresistible urge to use them; some vicariously, even if they get their sides confused.

I guess the easy way to remember is to associate the words by length (i.e. number of characters). The word "starboard" is longer than "port," so is the word "right" versus le mot "left." This also goes for the running lights of any craft; the word "green" is longer than the word "red," so it is easy to remember that green indicates the starboard or right side of a ship or plane. Don't forget the old rule "red, right, return," which means you should keep the red markers to your right when coming back into port! While you keep that in mind, let's try some poetry...

-- A. Cunningham (1784-1842)

By WENDY GRIFFIN

Usually when Colonia Villanueva is in the newspapers, it is because the anillo periferica (the beltway under construction in Tegucigalpa) has run into problems, or because of crimes committed by gang members of this neighborhood. While the average literacy rate for Honduras is over 70 percent, in Villanueva it is around 50 percent, meaning less than half the people read at a second grade level. However, a group of young people at the Rafael Pineda Ponce High School in Villanueva are trying hard to change the image of their neighborhood.

Fuerza Activa (Active Force) is the high school's theater group that will represent Honduras at the Blizzard 2000 theater festival in Montreal, Canada May 2-16. The group will then tour other Canadian cities presenting the play El Principito (The Little Prince). This theater tour is made possible with the help of Compartir, Save the Children, the Ministry of Culture, the French Alliance, the Central American Bank for Economic Integration (CABEI), HIVOS, American Airlines, the French Embassy, the National Theater School and volunteers in Canada who will provide homestays.

The theater group was started February 1999 with financial assistance from Asociacion Compartir, which works with children in the streets. With this help, the group obtained costumes, scenery, make-up, and scripts. The play "El Principito" was presented for the first time June 11, 1999 -- the Day of the Student -- at the Manuel Bonilla National Theater in Tegucigalpa. The group has also performed at the French Alliance, CABEI, in their neighborhood, and at other high schools.

"We never though we would be able to do this," said one of students. "People told us we were crazy, we were just wasting our time. We had problems with our parents and our teachers who said it was a waste of time. It was a tremendous fight to found the group."

The students practice six hours a week in the morning, even though some of the members are night school students. "We feel very satisfied. People said there were no values here in Colonia Villanueva, and the people here were bad. Here we have identified positive values and we raise the image of our high school, our neighborhood and Tegucigalpa," said the student.

"It has been a tremendous experience. Before I was afraid to speak in public, but now I have confidence." The students also liked the message of the play which is about friendship. "Not everything can be seen with the eyes; the really important things can only be seen with the heart," said another student.

The director of the Villanueva High School and founder of Fuerza Activa, Agripino Salgado, has also helped to found a program for out-of-school youth in this neighborhood. Red de Solidaridad para la Seguridad Ciudadana (Solidarity Network for Citizen Security) has formed three groups that participate in sporting events. Until recently the neighborhood had no soccer field, but now it has one.

Another project was to put in 50 street lights. In the future, they would like to provide training for the young men in trades and how to run small businesses. The program receives funding from the Inter-American Human Rights Institute in Costa Rica. The organizers would like to expand the program to other neighborhoods, but lack funding.

PAINTING EXHIBIT -- THROUGH APRIL -- The Central Bank of Honduras (BCH) is commemorating its 50th anniversary with an exhibit of paintings by Miguel Angel Ruis titled Matutte 2000 at the Arturo H. Medrano gallery located at the bank's facilities in Comayaguela.

PAINTING EXHIBIT -- APRIL 25-27 -- Fundacion Casa de la Cultura in the city of La Ceiba is holding an exhibit of paintings by Michele Borne, Virginia Castillo, Kathryn Cook de Hernandez, Magna Diaz, Celsa Flores, Margarita de Ozaeta, Mafela, Eileen Robinson and Diana de Agurcia. The event will be inaugurated on April 25 at 7:30 p.m. at the Champa Swinford in the Mazapan Ecological Park and will be open the following two days from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Admission is free.

PAINTING EXHIBIT -- MAY 18 -- The Hotel Copantl Sula in San Pedro Sula will host an exhibit of paintings by Samuel Trigueros titled En el principio to be inaugurated at 7 p.m.

PERMANENT EXHIBIT -- The Mujeres en las Artes association has an exhibit of paintings, silk screenings and drawings titled Mujer en Blanco y Negro by Carolina Kiersten Medina. More information at 221-0697.

HONDURAN RELIGIOUS ART -- The Year 2000 Commission and the Committee of Cultural Centers are sponsoring an exhibit titled Religious Art in Honduras, which is taking place at the National Art Gallery. For more information, call 237-9884, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

COMEDY -- THROUGH APRIL -- Producciones Artisticas Siglo XXI presents the comedy Vengan corriendo que les tengo un muerto at the Renacimiento Theater in Plaza Millennium in Comayaguela. Showtime is 8 p.m., admission is Lps. 50, students with ID pay only Lps. 30.

SYMPHONIC ORCHESTRA IN CONCERT -- APRIL 27 -- The National Symphonic Orchestra of Honduras (OSNH) will offer a concert at the Tegucigalpa Metropolitan Cathedral from 7 p.m. Admission is free.

LANGUAGE WEEK -- APRIL 24-29 -- The Honduran Institute of Hispanic Culture (IHCH) will inaugurate the Semana del Idioma (Language Week) with an exhibit of antique books on April 24 at 7 p.m. at its facilities in Col. Lomas del Guijarro in Tegucigalpa. On April 26, there will be a public reading of Don Quijote de la Mancha at 2 p.m. The activity will close with the presentation of the II Feria de Abril (April Fair) on the 29th, which will include Spanish food, wine and dance. For more information, call 232-5578.

NEW ART WORKSHOPS -- THROUGH APRIL -- The Mujeres en las Artes "Leticia de Oyuela" association is offering the following courses: Through April 29: A world of colors, Saturdays from 2 to 4 p.m., special for children 8 to 9, registration is Lps. 600. More information at 221-0697.

DANCE AND GUITAR COURSES -- The Honduran Institute of Hispanic Culture (IHCH) invites the public to learn the Sevillana Spanish dance. Courses are offered on Wednesdays for adults and on Fridays for children. IHCH is also offering guitar courses on Tuesdays. More information at 232-5578 from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

PAINTING COURSES -- WEDNESDAYS, THURSDAYS AND SATURDAYS -- IHCH offers painting courses for adults Thursdays and Saturdays, and for children Wednesdays and Saturdays. More information at 232-5578 from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

ART, LEARNING & TUTORING FOR CHILDREN -- The Art and Education Center, BONAMPAK, at the Plaza Millennium offers hourly art courses for children ages 6 to 12 on Mondays and Wednesdays, as well as Tuesdays and Thursdays from 3 to 5 p.m. Hourly reading courses for children ages 7 to 12 are being held on Fridays from 4 to 6 p.m., as well as for children ages 4 to 6. Tutoring services are also available. Call 222-5487 for more information.

BOOK FESTIVAL -- APRIL 28 -- The Ministry of Culture and the Froylan Turcios Technical Institute will hold the First Regional Book Festival. The event will take place at the institute's main hall in the community of Tocoa, Colon. People interested in donating books can send them to the institute, or call 444-2465.

CULTURE FESTIVAL -- APRIL 30 -- The La Florida touristic center in Valle de Angeles, Francisco Morazan, will celebrate its second Culture, Arts and Sports Fair. Come and enjoy folkloric dances, music groups, theater shows, handcrafts and painting exhibits and sporting events. More information at 766-2121.

TRADITIONAL FOOD FESTIVAL -- APRIL 30 -- The community of Cantarranas, Francisco Morazan, will hold a festival featuring traditional Honduran fare.

FLOWER FESTIVAL -- THROUGH MAY -- The residents of the community of Lepaterique, in Francisco Morazan department, will hold its traditional flower festival next month.

SECRETARY'S DAY PARTY -- APRIL 28 -- The Hotel Honduras Maya in Tegucigalpa will celebrate Secretary's Day with a party at noon. Contests, music, gifts, raffles and many other fun surprises await secretaries on this special date. Admission is Lps. 350 per person. Reservations at 232-7043, 232-6035.

CLUBS

FAMILIES ANONYMOUS -- Families Anonymous (FA) meetings are held every Tuesday evening at the Union Church at 7:30 p.m. Call Eileen for more information at 239-9779 or 239-9778.

AL-ANON FAMILY GROUPS -- Al-Anon helps the relatives and friends of problem drinkers. Groups meet weekly in Colonia Alameda (Saturday afternoons) and Colonia Loarque (Sunday evenings). For more information, contact Amanda at 239-2698 (Spanish) or Margaret at 226-6576 (English).

NARCOTICS ANONYMOUS -- Having problems with drugs, alcohol? Meetings are held in Spanish every Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 7:30 p.m. in Colonia Palermo, Ave. Juan Manuel Galvez, 1 calle # 1836. For more information, call Ricardo at 991-9417 or 232-8989.

ENGLISH SPEAKING WOMEN'S CLUB -- The ESWC invites all English-speaking women to attend its teas held the second Thursday of each month at 2:30 p.m. at the Hotel Honduras Maya in Col. Palmira of Tegucigalpa. For more information, call Sara at 211-8369.

MUSEO DE HISTORIA REPUBLICANA

The Museum of Republican History is located at the Villa Roy building in Tegucigalpa's Barrio Buenos Aries. It is open 8:30 to 3:30, Tuesdays through Sundays and features portraits, paraphernalia, and other interesting items from past presidents. Admission is Lps. 20 for non-resident foreigners and Lps. 10 for Hondurans and Central Americans. For more information, call 222-3470 or 222-1468.

CENTRAL BANK MUSEUM

The Central Bank of Honduras located at the Comayaguela annex building is open from 9 a.m. to noon and from 1 to 4 p.m., Monday to Friday. It has a permanent coin and painting exhibit. For special presentations, call the Emision y Tesoreria department at 237-2270 (-78), ext. 2117 (-2120). [CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE.]

NATIONAL ART GALLERY

The Galeria Nacional de Arte features rock art, pre-Columbian ceramics, colonial paintings, religious art and a wide selection of 20th century Honduran painters. The gallery is located at the Plaza de la Merced in downtown Tegucigalpa. It is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10-5 p.m. and Sunday from 10-2 p.m. Admission is Lps. 10 for adults, Lps. 5 for senior citizens, Lps. 3 for students and Lps. 1 for children accompanied by adults.

IGUANA FARM

The Biosfera Ecocentro Iguana Farm in Colonia La Joya invites the public to come and learn everything about iguanas. Admission is Lps. 5 for adults, Lps. 3 for children. The facility is open every day (except Wednesday) from 9 to 5. For more information, call 230-6346.

COMAYAGUA MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY

Located in the city of Comayagua, two hours north of Tegucigalpa, the Comayagua Museum of Archaeology is in the building that served as the seat of government in the 19th century. Exhibits include prehistoric fossils, cave art, ceramics, and objects used by indigenous cultures during the pre-Colombian era. The museum, which also has a small library, is open to the public Tuesdays through Sundays from 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.

COMAYAGUA RELIGIOUS MUSEUM

Located in the Casa Cural in front of Comayagua's cathedral, this museum features religious paintings and objects dating back to the 16th century. Hours are 8-12 and 2-4 p.m., Mondays through Fridays. For more information, contact Leonardo Letona at 772-0348.

LA PAZ HOUSE OF CULTURE

The La Paz Casa de la Cultura is located in downtown La Paz. It features an attractive exhibit of the Lenca handicrafts and culture. It is open Mondays through Sundays.

SPS MUSEUM OF ANTHROPOLOGY AND HISTORY

The Museo de Antropologia e Historia de San Pedro Sula features exhibits on the development of Sula Valley, from 1500 B.C. to the middle of this century. The museum is open 10 a.m. to 4:15 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays and 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Sundays. Admission is Lps. 10 for adults, Lps. 5 for students and children under 12, and Lps. 2 for senior citizens. For more information, call 557-1496/557-1798 or fax 557-1874.

MUSEUM OF NATURE OF SAN PEDRO SULA

Sponsored and managed by the Fundacion Ecologista H.R. Pastor Fasquelle, this new museum was inaugurated last December in its current location at the Biocentro on 3 Avenida and 9 Calle Noroeste. It has 24 exhibits on the environment, natural resources and biology of Honduras. Hours are 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily and 8 a.m. until noon on Saturdays. Admission is Lps 5 for students from public schools and Lps. 10.00 for everyone else.

YUSCARAN HOUSE OF CULTURE

Yuscaran's Casa de la Cultura is located at the former Casa Fortin in downtown Yuscaran, El Paraiso department, just 45 km from Tegucigalpa on the road to Danli. It is open Mondays through Saturdays.

PECH CULTURAL CENTER

The Pech have built a small house in El Carbon, Olancho to display their modern handicrafts. An exhibit of archaeological finds in the area is planned. You can ask to see the collection and/or get a tour of a Post Classic era fortified site. The Pech Cultural Center also offers medicinal plant tours, nature hikes, Pech dinners, etc. There is no admission fee to the cultural center. Hours: If you ask, they will open it.

COPAN ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

Located in the village of Copan Ruinas, Copan department, the museum exhibits a splendid assortment of Mayan pieces that have been found in the Copan Ruins Archaeological Park just 1 km away.

LA PUENTE ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

Featuring a sizeable collection of Mayan handicrafts and photographs as well as a room with Japanese antique ceramics, this museum is located at the El Puente Archaeological Site, about an hour's drive from Copan Ruinas.

MAYAN SEPULTURAS MUSEUM

Inaugurated in 1996, this is the premier Mayan museum in the Mundo Maya, featuring the finest examples of Copan's tombs, sculptures and architecture. Located at the Copan Ruins Archaeological Park, the museum is open Monday through Sunday.

LANCETILLA BOTANICAL GARDENS

Located 2 kilometers from Tela on the Atlantic coast highway, the gardens feature one of the largest collections of tropical and subtropical plants, shrubs and trees in all Latin America. It is open from 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Mondays through Sundays. There is an admission charge.

BUTTERFLY AND INSECT MUSEUM

Thousands of butterflies and insects from Honduras and 18 other countries are on display in La Ceiba' private Butterfly and Insect Museum. It is located in Colonia El Sauce, 2nd etapa, casa G-12. Visiting hours are 8-12 and 2-5, Monday through Saturday. The museum is closed Wednesday afternoon. Fees are Lps. 15 for adults and Lps. 10 for students. Tel. 442-2874, e-mail: rlehman@ns.gbm.hn

TRUJILLO RUFINO GALAN MUSEUM

A private museum which has a memorabilia section, old chairs, anchors, silverware, beds of famous people locally. There is an industrial archaeology section on how lights, axes, stoves, sewing machines, typewriters have changed over time. They have a good collection of Garifuna handicrafts and the best collection

of NE Honduras archaeological pieces -- all unmarked. A written guide to the museum is available at the Trujillo Tourism Office in English and Spanish. The museum is open 8 to 4, closing for lunch. Adults Lps. 20, children Lps. 10. Located on Calle 18 de Mayo, next to the Crystales River and the famous "piscina" or pool, about a 15-minute walk out of town.

CARAMBOLA BOTANICAL GARDENS

The private Carambola Botanical Gardens and Nature Trails is located in Sandy Bay, Roatan, Bay Islands. A wide variety of exotic plants is featured here, including "Roatan's most extensive orchid collection." It is open daily from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. For more information, call 445-1117 and ask for Bill or Irma Brady.

BAY ISLANDS MUSEUM

By SUYAPA CARIAS

The folkloric dance troupe of the Ministry of Tourism will tour Europe as a way of expressing the gratitude of the people of Honduras for the solidarity shown during the aftermath of Hurricane Mitch.

Over a two-month period, the 35 troupe's members will offer the European public colorful performances involving autochthonous masks, musical instruments and fireworks. The dance troupe will perform at more than 40 cities, according to Osman Danilo Coto, the group's executive director in San Pedro Sula.

Filosofia de Nuestro Tiempo, curso introductorio para universitarios (Philosophy of our times, introductory course for college students), is the title of the new book presented last week by Honduran author Maria David.

David, 53, received a degree in education at the Francisco Morazan Teaching School (now the Francisco Morazan Teaching University) in Tegucigalpa) and a degree in philosophy from the Pontificia Universidad Javeriana of Bogota, Colombia. She also studied economics and development planning at the National Autonomous University of Honduras.

The young musicians of the Pinalejo band in Santa Barbara department were recently visited by authorities of the cultural ministry who promised to provide them with new instruments.

The band, made up of children and teenagers, is called Aires Liricos de Pinalejo. Professor Belisario Romero, director of Artistic Education at the culture ministry, said his office will help reactivated musical appreciation workshops for new members of the group. Currently, the up-and-coming band only has the support of a local committee directed by Omar Mejia Munoz.

By ERLING DUUS CHRISTENSEN

Readers who may have some difficulty with the writings of Willy Gutman, who find him too harsh, angry, or bleak, and who cannot understand where he is "coming from," might do well to spend some time reading the prophets of Israel from the Hebrew Bible: Jeremiah, Amos, Ezekial, Hosea. They will find the voices of these men to be unrelenting in outrage, obsessive, repetitive, full of despair and wracking pain. They may also find in those voices if they have the substance for it a rare and awesome splendor.

As the renowned Jewish scholar Abraham Heschel wrote in his great book on the prophets, the prophet is a man who takes upon himself the anguish and pathos of God over the faithlessness of a humanity that finds the world a garden and who turns it into an arena for greed, self-indulgence and exploitation. Brooding in the wilderness before the direct, unmediated presence of the primeval power, the prophet finally emerges when he can stand no more and enters the courts of the king, forcefully sets down his staff and says in a voice that resonates from the deepest desert experience of the once nomadic Hebrews, "thus saith the Lord," whereupon proceeding to his ringing denunciations.

The mark of the prophet is his consuming passion for justice, and his utter unconcern for the opinion of the powerful, or the sensitivities and peace of mind of the comfortable. The prophet did not choose this role, it gives him neither pleasure or status. His is a bitter lot. He does not make nice noises about how wonderful it is to serve the Lord. He is not in the least pious. It is a calling, a summons, a savage power that has fallen on him. Having ears, he cannot refuse to hear, having eyes, he cannot fail to see.

The essays gathered in Gutman's new book Journey to Xibalba draw deeply from the prophetic tradition, and though the author does not obviously speak in religious tones, it is hard to miss the quality of "thus saith the Lord." Nearly all people regard a degree of misery and oppression in the world as being unfortunate, but something that we learn to live with. The hedonists, whose tribe is ever growing, do not believe in allowing the suffering of others, certainly not the sufferings of the poor, disturb the good time they are determined to have. If necessary, they will idealize the poor and deny the fact of injustice. If people suffer oppression (they say) and do not continue to whistle and sing, it is their own fault. Gutman will have none of that. He has internalized at a very deep level a passion for justice, and he takes the brutalization and oppression of people very personally.

The journey to Xibalba describes the author's 10-year exploration of "the subversion of human rights in Central America." Xibalba is the name the ancient Maya gave to their visualization of hell, a place of ever-lasting torment to which the evil go, and which was a projection of the darkness, cruelty, and oppression the people experienced in this life. This nether-world of demonry and horror serves as a metaphor for Gutman's journey as a reporter into that Central American world that lurks beneath a sometimes amiable surface.

Willy Gutman's first journey to Central America took place in 1991. He traveled to Guatemala on assignment with Omni magazine, with the purpose of investigating the murder and brutalization of street children. What he experienced and learned there has provided the lens with which he has viewed Central American societies ever since. His investigations have taken him to Mexico, Salvador, Costa Rica and Honduras. While he has continued to pay close attention to the conditions in Guatemala, the association he began in 1994 with Honduras This Week has caused him to increasingly focus on Honduras.

The essays published in this volume are taken from articles that Gutman has published in various Central American newspapers over the last several years, but the majority were originally published in Honduras This Week. They cover the familiar Gutman territory, the regions and locales where he has found the greatest oppression. Street-children, indigenous peoples, brutal cadres of military assassins trained at the infamous School of the Americas in Fort Benning, Georgia. In the concluding chapters, he re-visits his controversial debate with HTW and several vociferous critics over his inflammatory characterization of public officials in Copan Ruinas. He also in several essays writes with great sensitivity and compassion about the most marginalized of the urban poor in Guatemala City and Tegucigalpa.

The accumulated power of Gutman's essays is similar to the effect of reading the whole book of Jeremiah. That is not an unambiguous compliment. As with Jeremiah, the reader often wishes that Gutman would relent, lower his voice, shift to other perspectives and themes, offer a more balanced and temperate perspective. Gutman has great facility with the English language, at his best he is Churchillian, but at times the swirling adjectives seem a bit out of control, generating more heat than light.

One may also have trouble with his somewhat simplistic chronicling of good and evil. Some of his heroes gleam a bit too white upon their chargers, and some of his villains seem to dark. Casa Alianza, for example, is championed without ambivalence, though to many it seems a flawed organization, whose good intentions surpass its accomplishments, and his assessment of Pope John Paul II seems to be too harsh. Further, one would like for Gutman to sit back at times and be philosophical, or humorous. One would like some light moments of lyricism, or simple words of celebration and delight. Perhaps he should at times make reference to the spirituality that centers his prophetic passion, though it is not hard to guess why he does not; the dread that his words might give any aid or comfort to those who so remorselessly exploit "God" for purposes of demagoguery and oppression.

Whatever complaints one may have about Gutman's writing, they are finally besides the point. He must be in the end embraced or rejected on the basis of just one thing. Does he tell the truth? Quarrel with him, if you can.

The blues seem to be lifting from the Spanish Main as the country gets a welcome respite from its chronic state of crisis -- week up an' smell the coffee, mon.

The regatta season is in full swing at Honduyate. Englishman-turned-hondureno Richard Joint, proprietor and in-house Macarena dance facilitator, is single-handedly responsible for the birth of competitive sailing in Lake Yojoa.

Participants include German ex-pats Ernst Ditterman and Holger Peters; also from Germany by way of Choluteca, brothers Oscar and Rafael Pinel, and E. Reichmann. Always present is the superlative Canadian sailor Brookes Giles, who is still vague about his ancestry (could he be related to Frank Morgan Giles, the famous naval architect of the 1920s...), and many more folks are flocking to watch the sport that paints the waters with a moving tapestry of dancing sails.

When not raising hell (or the Union Jack, or the Honduran flag, or any other available shapes on the committee boat), Joint himself participates in his 30-foot sloop Charlie Boy with his hand-picked crew, that is, whomsoever he can manage to pick up at a moment's notice with his own bare hands!

I do not wish to give the impression that Honduyate is a sail-by-night-operation, or that they are -- in any way -- running a loose shift. On the contrary, things in general are exceptionally well organized, and although there may be some improvising going on backstage, Joint is a master sailor and very serious when it comes to racing. Additionally, the restaurant serves up the best fish and chips on the lake at a skipper's table with hand-painted details by Joint's lovely wife, Liliana.

Still, by other standards, the competitions have that "beer can racing" attitude that keeps things comfortable enough for everyone.

Conversation around the table after a recent regatta began to turn to Sydney and a Honduran Olympic Sailing Team ...possibilities... well, the Jamaicans have a bobsled team, and to quote G. Bernard Shaw: "Some people see things as they are and ask why; I dream of things that never existed and ask, why not?"

By SUYAPA CARIAS

The achievements of five Honduran women from the working, civil, literary, artistic and social service sectors were recently recognized by the Pan American Agricultural School at Zamorano as part of the celebrations held during International Woman's Day.

The prize for abnegation and dedication at work was granted to Celia Dolores Rodas, a simple woman who began working as a crop picker in the fields of Zamorano and has progressively achieved greater levels of responsibility. Today, she is an active member of the fire fighting brigade for her community and the neighboring village of Guinope, Francisco Morazan.

Meanwhile, Leonila Melendez, currently the mayor of Moroceli, received an award for the outstanding work she has done as a teacher, a nurse and a political leader.

Irma Acosta de Fortin, the embodiment of women educators, also received an award. She is the director of the Jose Cecilio del Valle Private University and has taken an active role in Congress as a legislator.

Sister Martha Soto, director of the El Maestro en Casa (The Teacher at Home) radio program, was included among this year's winners. Soto came to Honduras from Costa Rica several years ago, bringing along with her a new teaching methodology for radio announcers.

In the literary field, Zamorano authorities gave an award to Leticia de Oyuela, one of the most respected and acclaimed Honduran writers. Oyuela also gave a conference on women and development in the context of globalization.

The cultural and artistic program prepared for the awards ceremony included an exhibit of paintings by women artists, Lenca art and candles and other items made from beeswax by La Cooperativa la Luciernaga, an organization that helps women who are victims of violence.

By DON PEARLY

The Spanish word milagro means miracle in English. Do you believe in miracles? Here is a situation and you be the judge.

Do you remember the wonderful Dr. Hector Gomez and his equally wonderful wife, also known as Dr. Gomez? Well these two people who give of themselves on an hourly basis 24 hours a day, ran into a little health problem. These people who never ever turn a patient down because of a financial situation, who never neglect or minimize the treatment for a homeless person or a poor person or a poor homeless person with AIDS, were suddenly face to face with a life-threatening health problem in their immediate family. Mrs. Gomez was diagnosed with a serious condition and it required immediate attention.

What to do? Treatment was not available in Honduras, and treatment in the United States is very expensive, probably in the neighborhood of $70,000 to $80,000 for an operation of its kind. No savings, no airfare, no hotel money, no sustenance fund, nothing except their track record here on Earth and their faith in God.

Now please do not classify me as a Preacher although I would be proud to be one, and do not classify me as a Born Again Christian, because I have always had my personal faith intact, but rather keep me in mind as a reporter, giving you the facts as they unfolded. Keep reading please.

The good doctor, and I mean that literally, turned to the only place he ever goes to for assistance. He turned to prayer and he asked The Lord to help him with this monumental problem. No flash of lightening, no clouds forming and no clap of thunder, just a ringing telephone. It was a friend on Guanaja who somehow heard of their plight. A few qualifying questions and a doctor's name in the States. Another telephone ringing and it is that very doctor telling our doctor to get ready, the operation is scheduled and the cost is absolutely nothing. Next complication, an expired Honduras passport, the need for an American visa and time running out.

Now a little thunder and lightning and leg-work, cooperation from the Honduran government and a valid passport. A fax to the American Embassy in Tegucigalpa explaining the situation. A return phone call, an appointment, an interview, a little bit of paperwork and a whole lot of trust and empathy from the Embassy consul and shazam, a five-year multiple entry visa for both doctors.

With things still happening too quickly to record or give thanks for, another call from the original friend on Guanaja with news of airline tickets, first class no less, and a reservation for a completely paid for hotel stay in a world class hotel right next to the world famous Mayo Clinic where the operation is to take place.

Bottom line, I am hearing this tale over a wonderful dinner prepared by none other than Dr. (Mrs.) Gomez herself, all happy and healthy and grateful. If they had not told me all these wonderful details, the story might have never surfaced because you sure were not going to hear it from the friend on Guanaja. Who is this wonderful person? I'll never tell, but I will say if I ever find a Tyrannosaurus rex on Guanaja, that's Guanaja with a "G", I will certainly name it Sue.

Don Pearly is the General Manager of the Bayman Bay Club on the island of Guanaja. His e-mail is <DPearly@compuserve.com>.