TRAVEL & TOURISM

Monday, April 27, 1998 Online Edition 103

U.S. Anthropologist educates millions while traveling the globe

By TELISHA WILLIAMS

Passing through Tegucigalpa on the last leg of an eight-month self-guided tour through Latin America, U.S. anthropologist and explorer Monroe Fisher has been entertaining 23 million radio listeners with tales about his adventures along the way. Photo by Telisha Williams

Many people dream of making a trip around the world, but only a few actually do it. And even fewer have the chance to share their traveling experiences with more than close friends and relatives. But Julian Monroe Fisher, a 42-year-old anthropologist and explorer for hire from Banner Elk, North Carolina, created a unique opportunity for himself when he decided two years ago that it was time to personally realize the dream of circumnavigating the globe.

Before setting off to explore Central America in October of 1996, Fisher called his old friend John Boy of the John Boy and Billy Big Show -- a nationally syndicated radio program broadcast to an audience of some 23 million listeners in over 50 cities across the United States. He was introduced to the studio manager whom he told, "I've got this plan, I'm going to travel exclusively overland from the Yucatan down to Panama and back. She said, 'Go for it, call us every week.' I had no idea what it takes to do that."

He made the first call from Belize after witnessing a murder on the beach, and the second call came from the Moskitia Coast of Honduras. Further south in Costa Rica he had a close call when his hotel burned down while he was in it. "I had just enough time to run out of the building. Nobody died, but everyone upstairs lost everything."

As the saying goes...the rest is history. Listeners began calling in to ask what's going to happen to Monroe along the road, and Fisher was invited to call in every Friday morning. "I didn't realize what I was on to, really I was just happy to have a way to phone home collect and let my family know I was okay."

More than just a tourist, Fisher creates opportunities to rub elbows with the local culture and to explore some of the most beautiful geographic destinations. Meanwhile, he relays the intimate details of his unique experiences to millions of fellow citizens who are not able to leave their jobs, homes, and other domestic responsibilities to pursue their own adventures.

Fisher returned from the Central America segment of his travel quest, which he dubbed "Monroe's Talkabout the World," in early April 1997. The following summer he worked on soliciting sponsors to help finance and thereby continue his exploration around the planet. "Monroe's Talkabout South America" began in August 1997 and ended last week on April 16. "I can honestly say that I circumnavigated through each country of South America overland but for one 70 mile flight."

While passing through Brazil, he tracked down the living legend and 'great train robber' Ronald Biggs, who escaped to Brazil in 1963 after hijacking a mail train carrying 40 million dollars between Glasgow and London. "I found him living in Rio telling his story to tourists."

Fisher has traveled over 32,000 miles during the last eight months by bus, boat, bike, dug-out canoe, horseback, and on foot, and feels lucky to have made it this far in one piece, although there were some doubts along the way. Asked which mode of transportation has been the most dangerous, without hesitation and very emphatically he said, "Taxis! Last year I was in one that caught on fire. Once in La Ceiba, Honduras I was riding down the road with two other passengers, and we're in the middle of a conversation in the back seat when the transmission suddenly falls out on the ground. We just got out, didn't even miss a beat in our conversation and walked up the street to catch a different cab, because we know that kind of thing happens down here."

More surprises were just down the road. "While interviewing a student movement leader at a restaurant in Nicaragua, the police came in and took us out in separate directions, I was briefly detained in a car while riding around. I didn't know what that was going to be like, but it turned out fine."

His plans to cross the infamous Darien Gap between Panama and Colombia had to be changed due to ongoing Guerilla warfare in the area. "One night I was in a hotel room in Papayan, Colombia laying in bed when the election office two blocks down the street blew up and blew out the window of my hotel room."

But there has been plenty of less violent, although not necessarily less dramatic, events as well. While riding a bus along the Pan-American highway through Chile, Fisher helped in the unexpected birth of Carmencita, who could not wait for the trip to end before coming into the world.

In Ecuador, he visited an Indian tribe from the Valley of Longevity where it is not uncommon to live past 100. While performing a ceremony to bless him with long life, a local shaman smeared Fisher's face with a red liquid that could not be removed for two weeks. "It was really funny having to go change my traveler's checks with my face painted."

The self-guided explorer has passed on some valuable traveling tips to his audience. He warned them about the old 'mustard trick' of which he was almost a victim. Someone walks up behind you while you're wearing a backpack and squirts you with mustard or chocolate syrup and then says, 'Hey gringo, you have something on your backpack, let me help you clean it up' and while you're taking off your mochila to have a good look at it, a third party rushes in, and before you know it, they are both gone and you are left holding the air. Fisher had heard of the trick before; so when he was approached by a couple of street thugs, he kept walking rather than stopping to discuss a mustard stain.

Considering the length of time he has been traveling and the secluded places he has explored, Fisher realizes that he has been very, very lucky. However, some of that luck is contributed to the extra precautions he rigidly observes. "I always check in with the embassies and check out the travel alerts. I carry a stick and a whistle. I try not to exchange money at the borders, and I don't go out at night and drink beer like a lot of gringos and leave myself vulnerable."

After experiencing the many different countries of Latin America, Fisher expressed a few personal opinions. Food was excellent in Surinam where there was a lot of East Indian influence. He found the people to be most open and friendly in Colombia, and commented that Costa Rica seemed to be the most westernized, commercialized, and expensive. About Honduras he said, "It is without a doubt my favorite. It's got problems, I see more weapons here than anywhere else I've traveled, but I blame the U.S. involvement for that. The beauty of the country is the best...the Hondurans are very kind, loving people. You can look at a Honduran, and they'll smile."

Fisher commented, Latin American people are so much more dependent upon each other than we allow ourselves to be. We like to be independent in the United States. Fisher said that he was surprised to find racism to be very prominent in Latin America, especially South America. I noticed a lot of the people look at the Indian cultures as holding on to the past while the rest of the country wants to move forward, and that is where a lot of the racism comes from.

Through his radio stories of everyday life and frequent surprises along the road of his evolving journey, Fisher has inadvertently been a goodwill ambassador for Latin America. People in their cars, at work, at home and even in prison have found a way to escape their daily routine and in a voyeuristic way taste, touch, smell, hear, and see other parts of the exotic world.

"I didn't realize how much people need something like this. After all the bad news they see, I feel very, very fortunate that I am able to give people something that they're happy about. It is the neatest thing in my life. I don't know what will happen afterward, but it's being good to me now."

Not wanting to be negative on the radio show, Fisher does not talk about everything he sees. "I have seen a lot of things that are disturbing, but I'll save that for a different forum." Instead, he chooses to emphasize, People need to get over their problems with the color of skin, with the way people look and the way they speak, and get on with life.

Eventually, Fisher plans to write a book about his travels, and if he has not gathered enough material yet, he should have no problem doing so once he kicks off his next journey scheduled to begin this coming summer.

"I plan to leave from North Carolina and go up the Lewis and Clark Trail through the Pacific North West to Alaska across the Aleutian Islands over to Asia, Australia, and finally Africa. It will take 18 months from July 4 of this year through January of 2000. "

Before saying adios to Tegucigalpa, Fisher compared himself to astronaut Neil Armstrong, the first man to land on the moon, who said "I'm an explorer, not a discoverer. I've been nowhere and found nothing previously unknown." He said, "That's me -- and I've been able to take 23 million people with me. I'm very happy about that. Now, I just wish they'd get off their couches and come on down here!"

For more information about the continuing adventures of Monroe Fisher contact him through e-mail at jomamas@hotmail.com or look up his website at <http://www.mastgeneralstore.com/monroe.> And as he would say, Sonja grande! Adventura Fallar (dream big and dare to fail).

By HOWARD ROSENZWEIG

This month temperatures in Honduras have hit the 'toasty' mark, sending tourists and locals alike in search of relief from the scorching heat. Here's part one of a select list of 13 ways to beat the 'calor' -- Honduran style!

1- Rent a pleasant cabana at little Roatan resort called BananaRama, crank up the ceiling fan, chill a bottle of California white wine, and ponder West Bay Beach (Roatan's finest) from beneath the shade of a towering coconut palm -- but watch out for falling coconuts!

2- Drive down to Pulhapanzak Falls, near lake Yojoa. Hike down to the bottom of the falls, strip down to your Calvin Klein designer underwear, lay down on the biggest boulder you can find, and soak up the cool, misty spray. Together with some oral rehydration therapy (a cool couple of Port Royals are highly recommended) and you'll be on your way to recovery.

3- Fill your Jacuzzi, bathtub, pila, sink or whatever you can muster with ice and plunge right in. Obviously this is not for the faint hearted! It takes a strong nerve, not to mention neoprene underwear, to jump into a jacuzzi filled with ice. Last note, remember to use only purified, bottled water, when making ice!

4- While visiting Copan, slide on down to the newly opened Reggae Roof around 6 p.m. As the sun glides into the distant hills of Guatemala, soak up the awesome sunset as you such down 2X1 cold beers under a Garifuna style thatched roof, as Bob Marley plays in the background. Ya mon! It don't git no bitter dan dis mon!

5- Find yourself in San Pedro Sula, and the thermometer is hitting 105^oF plus? Well, fear not, relief is at hand. There are plenty of air conditioned hotels, restaurants, movie theaters and fast food joints. Here's a select itinerary: Going to SPS from Teguz? Transport yourself in a/c comfort (with on board flicks and stewards!) on the Saenz bus. The closest thing without leaving the ground. Check into the new Camino Real Hotel (not for the economically challenged -- the economically challenged may be opt for less expensive digs such as Hotel Terraza in downtown San Pedro). Have a cappuchino or latte at Espresso Americano on the peatonal, then lunch at the Gran Salon (check out their new upscale lobby) and then dinner at T.G.I. Fridays and a flick at the Plaza Multi-Cine Then head back to your a/c hotel room for some channel surfing on your in-room cable. Room service and that bucket of purified ice is just a phone call to room service away!

Next week more 'hot' tips on keeping cool in sunny Honduras.

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Monday, April 20, 1998 Online Edition 102

By HOWARD ROSENZWEIG

The National Congress created the Secretaria de Turismo (Ministry of Tourism) in January. This move seeks to create a ministry that deals exclusively with the tourism sector in order to aggressively promote and market Honduras around the world as a tourism destination.

According to an article in the Guatemalan newspaper Prensa Libre on Feb 18, the Guatemalan government is also currently considering a similar move to transform the Instituto Guatemalteco de Turismo (INGUAT) into a ministry level entity, much like Mexico and Costa Rica.

Maybe finally the governments of Central America (excluding Costa Rica) are finally taking the tourism sector seriously by dedicating sufficient funds and importance to the government entities charged with marketing and promoting.

According to Ronald Barahona, director of the Honduran Chamber of Tourism, "if current trends continue, Honduras will see tourism occupy the number two position in the economy by the year 2000 and the number one spot by the year 2005."

Come Christmas time, Copan Ruins enters its high season, the Central Park is decorated with Christmas lights and there are free marimba concerts in the park as the town takes on a festive atmosphere. As January approaches, snowbirds from the United States, Canada and Europe begin to flock south for the winter. The epoca alta (high season) stretches on till Easter Week, providing Copan and the other Honduran tourism destinations (like the Bay Islands) with a much needed beginning of the year boost.

Howard Rosenzweig, a U.S. expatriate living in the Village of Copan Ruinas, is the owner of the Casa de Cafe Bed and Breakfast.

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Monday, April 13, 1998 Online Edition 101

Cayos Cochinos unattractive in name but beautiful in beaches
Cayos Cochinos is an excellent place for snorkeling, scuba diving, swimming or just tanning on the sandy beaches. Photo by Sara Anne Bodden

By SARA ANNE BODDEN

Special to Honduras This Week

UTILA -- Many times I spotted a hilly island while traveling from here to La Ceiba. As I later discovered, the "island" I had seen was not one but 13 cays (keys) that make up the island chain known as Cayos Cochinos, which are considered part of the Bay Islands.

Although their name does not sound very attractive in Spanish or English (Hog Islands/Hog Cays), these islets are breathtakingly beautiful. They posses gorgeous stretches of sandy beach bathed by turquoise waters enveloped in an atmosphere of absolute tranquility.

It is safe to say that Cayos Cochinos is a relatively primitive location. The main islands are too hilly for wheeled vehicles, thus it is recommended that visitors bring along appropriate footwear for hiking, since this is the only means of transportation other than by boat. The only hotel on Cayos is the Plantation Beach Resort, which also has the only phone service available in that area.

Most of the inhabitants are Garífunas who live in villages on one side of the island while several foreigners have established homes on the other. The residents are friendly and very entertaining.

Among the activities available are kayaking, snorkeling, diving, and of course hiking. By hiking on the Big Island (Cay), you can get a great view of the surrounding islets and look down at the extensive beaches below.

If you have a boat and wish to visit Cayos, remember that anchoring is not allowed, since an anchor can damage the delicate coral reefs there. To prevent such destruction, moorings are available and they are located in the waters off the Resort.

The Smithsonian Institute in accordance with the Honduran government have converted Cayos Cochinos into a biological reserve and rangers patrol the area to ensure that laws are enforced in order to preserve its natural beauty.

Although not publicized as much as the other Bay Islands, the Cayos are equally attractive and have an abundance of marine life. Perhaps in the future the Cayos will experience an explosion of tourism (like the other Bay Islands), but for the time being, it remains an unspoiled paradise and a haven of relaxation for its present inhabitants and visitors.

Monday, April 6, 1998 Online Edition 100

Utila offers Easter vacationers tranquil environment, scenic beauty

Special to Honduras This Week

It's that time of year again: Semana Santa (Holy Week) is here and for many Hondurans this time of year provides a much needed opportunity to break away from monotonous daily routines and head to the beach for some sun and relaxation.

While some folks prefer to stay on the mainland and tan on the fabulous beaches of Puerto Cortes, La Ceiba, Tela, and Trujillo, others will undoubtedly be making their way to the sunny Bay Islands. These three islands (Utila, Roatan and Guanaja) are nestled in the crystalline waters of the Caribbean Sea and offer visitors a tranquil environment abundant in scenic beauty.

Utila, the first and smallest of the Bay Islands, lies approximately 18 miles off the Honduran mainland and is rapidly becoming known as a diver's paradise, thanks to the spectacular coral formations and variety of unique marine creatures found in this area.

If you are planning on visiting the island, you should consider including snorkeling on your list of activities so you can admire the underwater beauty and understand why Utila is a world class diving location.

However, time is running out. Many hotels and resorts are already making reservations, so it is recommendable that anyone planning to vacation here during Holy Week call ahead and make reservations.

Utila is accessible by air and sea. Islena Airlines offers daily flights from La Ceiba to Utila at 6 a.m., 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. Airfare costs Lps. 256.00 (one way) and an airport tax of Lps. 10.00 must be paid before boarding (in La Ceiba). Sosa's schedule varies. M/V Tropical makes a daily trip (Monday - Friday) from La Ceiba to Utila at 10 a.m. The fare is Lps. 130.00

There are two banks on the island -- BANCAHSA and Banco Atlantida and both are located in the center of town.

You can get around town by walking or renting a bike or motorbike. The residents are friendly so feel free to ask for directions. There are several popular picnic areas on the island (Blue Bayou and Pumpkin Hill Beach), but the best place to go for an enjoyable picnic would be Water Cay. This location can only be reached by boat. Usually, there are several dories headed there during the week so you can ask around and catch a ride or hire one of the locals to take you there.

Note: It is highly recommendable that visitors bring flashlights. While some hotels offer 24-hour electricity, ENEE is not completely dependable and lights may be turned off without warning. Electrical service from ENEE is provided from 6 a.m. until midnight.

By HOWARD ROSENZWEIG

Nine good reasons to visit Copan Ruinas this Easter:

1. The Ruins of Copan are one of the premier Mundo Maya archeological parks in Mesoamerica. In Copan you will find the finest examples of Mayan sculpture and architecture lovingly preserved. The site itself is a walker's joy, lots of forest, shade, and trails to stroll. It's an explorer's paradise.

2. The finest Mundo Maya museum. Visit Copan's Sepulturas

museum, located near the archeological site's parking area. It houses some of the finest sculptures, stelaes, building facades, etc. Its two floors of exhibits are wonderfully presented and there are lots of written descriptions of all exhibits to guide the visitor. The entrance to the museum is an experience in itself. You enter through a below ground replica of an archaeologist's tunnel, emerging in the center of the airy and bright museum, where you come face to face with a full-size, full-color replica of the Rosalila Temple, the only intact temple found to date. It is truly an amazing site not to be missed.

3. The village of Copan Ruins, 1 km. from the park, is a pleasant, laid back pueblo boasting

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