Saturday, August 30, 1996
Saturday, August 30, 1996
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A visit to Isla del Tigre and AmapalaBy BRAD MARTIN Although I have been to Southern Honduras about a half dozen times, I had never before visited Isla del Tigre. Here is an account of my visit. Isla del Tigre is in the Gulf of Fonseca, Honduras' Pacific Coast entrance. We were delayed in our arrival at Coyolito, arriving about dusk. Coyolito is San Lorenzo's oil refinery terminal. You can't miss it as the road seems to run right into it. Here, if you arrive earlier in the day, you can catch a launch that will take you directly to the islands only hotel, Villas Playa Negra. But we weren't that fortunate, as the hotel launch had just departed as we arrived. No problem, for $4 we arranged a launch to take us to the islands only city, Amapala. We were helped in our arrangements by a 12-year-old boy named Miguel. Quite a knowledgeable young man, we trusted him to show us the way. HALF HOUR BOAT RIDE The boat ride to Amapala took about a half an hour. By this time it was getting pretty dark. We arrived at the Amapala docks and Miguel then showed us the way, a short distance, to the "bodega" for the hotel. Here we met an older gentleman, guardian of the bodega and greeter for the hotel guests that arrive directly at the docks. We were told the hotel would send a pickup truck for us, he just needed to call them on the radio. The only problem was, there was no electricity and he thought it would be another 15 minutes or so until power would be available. He was right, 15 minutes later power was restored and he cried over and over into his radio "hotel...hotel...hotel...hotel...", no reply, I guess they weren't listening. Miguel told us he could find us a taxi and we opted for that. Just about the time Miguel came with the taxi (pickup truck), contact with the hotel was made, but we were told it would be about an hour before they could come for us. We took the taxi. Standing up in the back of the pickup, it was difficult to see anything except what the headlights illuminated. The drive took about 45 minutes over a bumpy dirt road. Miquel was with us all the way, by this time I had learned his name, age and that he lived on the island with his grandmother. He told me his mother had abandoned him when he was 4 years old and he has been with his grandmother ever since. He works at the docks helping visitors and earns enough to support her and his school expenses. RUSTIC ROOMS The Hotel Villas Playa Negra currently has 14 units, 10 of these are air-conditioned, a must for southern Honduras. There is a swimming pool and restaurant. The rooms are very basic, two simple beds, a bench, no pictures on the white walls, and a bathroom. All of which are very basic indeed. The cost is $40 per night, per room, regardless of how many people are in the room. You can see an obvious effort was made to make this place accommodating to visitors, but it lacks the added effort that could turn this into a really comfortable place to stay. It is, however, the only hotel on the island. I have heard rumors, although all the residents I spoke to said this was the only hotel, that there are a few others of the hospedaje class. The hotel's telephone number is 98-8580. I called for reservations, but when I got there apparently they were lost. No problem, they had space for us. (They lose a lot of reservations in Honduras). In the morning we finally got to see what a lovely island it was. The island is actually a volcano jutting out of the sea. I didn't realize Honduras had any volcanos, this may be the only one. During daylight hours the hotel has an excellent launch available. We took it to explore the island coast and see some of the surrounding islands. From the gulf view, you can see El Salvador and Nicaragua. After the boat trip we got another pickup taxi and toured what we could see of the island itself. The beaches are impressive. FEWER OPPORTUNITIES One thing that surprised me, was that the Isla del Tigre seemed to have a lower level of poverty than the rest of Honduras. I thought the mainland was bad enough, but this was worse. Apparently opportunities for making a living are fewer here than in the rest of Honduras. I enjoyed my visit to Amapala and Isla del Tigre. It was a beautiful island with lovely beaches, but I would have to admit many visitors would be disappointed due to the lack of facilities. If you are looking for a peaceful place, off the tourists beaten path and can get by with rustic accommodations, this is just the place. When it was time to return, the hotel launch took us back to the docks where, you guessed it, Miguel was there waiting to carry our bags and get us the next boat out. The hotel would have taken us back to the mainland, but with our schedule of visiting the island, it just did not work out. Four dollars again did it and our group was headed back to the mainland. |
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Spanish Language SchoolsBy BRAD MARTIN Visitors to Honduras often enjoy studying the Spanish language during their visit. Taking a week or two of vacation, they head for one of Honduras' Spanish language schools. In addition to language training, these schools usually have an option of living in a Spanish-speaking home and providing a language immersion environment. Alternate accommodations are nearly always available at a nearby bed and breakfast or hotel. There are three main language schools in Honduras. These are located in Copan, La Ceiba and Trujillo and are: Ixbalanque Spanish School, Copan Ruinas, Honduras. One student per teacher, 4 hours/ 5 days per week, live with local families or in hotels, class consists of reading aloud, grammar, conversation, games, outings, all teachers are Hondurans and certified to teach. Telephone 98-3432 or fax 98-0004. Contact: Darla Brown de Hernandez, phone: (011-504) 57-6215, fax: (011-504) 57-6215. Eco-Escuela Language School, P.O. Box 797, La Ceiba, Honduras. Telephone 43 2762 or Fax 43-0700 or 1-800-443-0717. This school goes beyond hands-on basic grammar to rain forest education and experience with Honduran culture. The Eco Escuela is modeled after the language schools of Guatemala, but is more economical and teaches the benefits of a conservation-based economy. E-mail to: poviedo@hondutel.hn, web site: http://www.txinfinet.com/mader/ecoescuela/eco.html Centro Internacional de Idiomas, Sra. Belinda Linton, Apartado Postal 71, Trujillo, Colon, Honduras, Central America. Conversation, vocabulary, grammar, communication and survival skills. Certified Honduran instructors. Telephone/fax 44 4777. U.S.A. address: Centro Internacional de Idiomas, TGU 00068, P.O. Box 025387, Miami, FL 33102. Their web site is: http://www.worldwide.edu/honduras/cici/ or http://www.worldwide.edu/ci/honduras/lhonduras.html All three schools provide opportunities to explore their area. Tours, hiking and special events are available. The La Ceiba school also offers volunteer ecology related service work on both the mainland and the Bay Islands. All three of these schools are affiliated with AmeriSpan. You can reach them at AmeriSpan Unlimited, P.O. Box 40513, Philadelphia, PA 19106 or telephone 1-800 879-6640. Their web site is: http://www.amerispan.com/ For those of you who might be interested in a complete listing of Spanish language schools in Central and South America, Ron Mader maintains a list on his web site at http://www.txinfinet.com/mader/ecotravel/schools/schools.html His list is regularly updated. Other Spanish language schools in Honduras are: Conversa Language School, Colonia Palmira, Calle Brazil #2419, Tegucigalpa, back of Alfa and Omega movies. Intensive 4 to 6 hours per day or semi-intensive - 2 hrs. a day. Telephone 36-5170 or 36-7420. Copan Escuela de Espanol, located one block below the Health Clinic, just up the street from Hotel Marina. They can be reached by fax at 98-0004. All teachers are Copan locals teaching grammar, conversation, historical and social aspects of Honduran life. Home stays can be arranged. Fernando Gamboa is the owner. The Honduran Institute of InterAmerican Culture, Tegucigalpa, announces its new session of Spanish as a foreign language classes. Eighty hours per level, 6-level program, class schedule: 7:00-9:00 AM or 4:00-6:00 PM. For more information call 37 7539. Oxford Language Centre, offers Spanish classes with 9 levels of study, teachers are certified and experienced. Colonia Palmira, 4 Avenida A, No. 242, Tegucigalpa. Telephone 32-2060. There is no better way of getting to know Honduras and the people of Honduras than to be able to speak their language. What better way then to be a family member for a few weeks. Come and enjoy! |
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Travelers to Utila now charged US$5 user feeBy MARJORIE FLEMING Special to Honduras This Week UTILA -- Beginning August 15, non-resident tourists must now pay a US $5 tax to visit Utila, the smallest of the three Bay Islands. Tax proceeds will be used to fund projects and efforts directed at supporting a more sustainable future in tourism on Utila. The program itself is expected create numerous local jobs, and the projects set up with the funds will increase the longevity of Utila's tourism-based economy. Local officials hope the US$5.00, or lempira equivalent, will provide a significant sum of money to put to use and at the same time cover the fund's administration costs. The funds generated will provide a steady income to fund local community projects. Since only tourists will be charged, the funds will go toward efforts that affect tourism, such as the protection of the island's natural attributes, and the infrastructure that supports tourism. Project ideas include, but are not limited to: * Creation of Utila's Marine Park to help protect and monitor use of reefs, e.g. through a patrol boat with rangers and information posters addressing fishery laws, proper use of the reefs, etc. * Coral reef protection programs, e.g. mooring buoys * Creation of Utila Wildlife Refuge(s) * Development of recreation areas, e.g. nature trails * Environmental education in local schools * Community hygiene Activities in the collection and use of the funds will be supervised by a board made up of representatives of different community organizations, including the Bay Islands Conservation Association (BICA), the municipal government, the Honduran Tourism Institute, the Environmental Policy Office, Utila Dive Operators Association, and the Utila Hotel and Restaurant Owners Association.. The board will oversee the management of the fund and decide where the money would be used best to support the goals of the program. Regular audits will be invited to help maintain the integrity of the program. Visitors are now informed that they must purchase a 'Visitor Pass' before their departure from Utila. This notice is given through the posting of an attractive, multi-lingual poster in travel company offices on the mainland and on Utila. Similar posters are now posted in local dive shops, restaurants, and public places. Since collection and management of fund is often labor intensive and requires great attention to detail for accuracy, a central collection site will be established. At this collection site visitors will be charged and issued a numbered, dated Visitor Pass good for one year from the date of purchase. In a sign-in book, tourists will register next to the pass' corresponding number their name, country of origin, and length of stay on the island. Their names will be written on the passes to avoid their transfer to other travelers. The participation of every tourist in this program will be checked by transport companies (airlines, passenger boats). Travelers will be required to present their pass before their name is entered on the manifest, or before they make their reservation to leave. The pass will then be punched or stamped by the ticket vendor and stapled to the passenger's portion of the ticket. Periodical checks by officials at the point of boarding will ensure transport companies' compliance with the regulations. |
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Driving from Tegucigalpa to San Pedro SulaBy BRAD MARTIN One of the most delightful drives is the highway from Tegucigalpa to San Pedro Sula. It takes you through the heartland of Honduras and some of the most scenic areas of Central America. Don't just drive it, take your time to enjoy and stop to see what it can offer. Perhaps one of the first things you notice is that each segment seems to specialize in one commercial or agriculture product. As you pass through you will see vendors of baskets, ceramics, bird cages, candy and agricultural products such as watermelon, oranges, yucca and pineapples. One area sells cal, which is used in removing corn from the cob and also as a whitewash paint. Near Lago de Yojoa fish is sold by roadside vendors. Sadly you will even see wild animals sold such as birds, iguanas and squirrels. There are also interesting places to visit. Starting from Tegucigalpa, one of the first places to see is Parque Aurora. Located about twenty miles out of the city on the right side of the road, it offers a zoo and picnic area. There is a small admission fee. It's a great place for families with children to stop and relax. Continuing on to Siguatepeque, on the left side of the road, watch for La Granja D'Elia, located on the main highway at the turnoff to La Esperanza. This place is grocery store, bakery, meat market and restaurant combined. An excellent buffet costs between $2 and $3. It is an interesting place and worthwhile to stop. Back in the car, continue on to Taulabe six miles south of Lago de Yojoa. Here are the Cuevas de Taulabe, underground caverns that are well worth the stop. Bring flashlights. The exploration is easy and there are guides near the entrance to assist. The guides do expect a tip for their services. There is no charge for going into the caves, however sometimes service groups ask for donations. This is a fund raiser and has no official position at the caverns. By now I hope your appetite is good because the next
stop is Lago de Yojoa, the emerald lake of Honduras. Just past Lago de Yojoa is the Pulhapanzak Waterfalls. It takes some driving off the main highway to find them, but they're well worth the trip. Take the main highway north past the lake and look for the left-hand turnoff to Motel Agua Azul. Continue on this road until you get to Pena Blanca, the continue right (north). Watch for signs; you can't see the falls from the road. There is a small entrance fee, swimming, picnicking and short order food is available. If you get to Rio Lindo you passed it. When you leave, continue left (North) past Rio Lindo and you will get back on the main highway. On the main highway continue on to San Pedro Sula through lovely mountains studded with pine trees. Try to avoid driving at night. Not only won't you see these great sites, but the mountainous areas often have heavy fog that allows only a few feet of vision. Drive cautiously at all times as many drivers pass on the curves disregarding, whatever may be around the corner. The drive is well worth it and one of the great delights of Honduras. Brad Martin is the author of "Honduras Travel Guidebook" |
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South African couple circles globe to save endangered rhinoBy MARA DON and JUDITH C. SHAFFER Honduras might seem an unlikely venue for a "save the rhinocerous" rally, but Klaus Schrumpf and Pamela Bell aren't picky. When they said they'd go to the end of the earth to save the endangered rhino, these two South African natives meant it. For years they've witnessed the slaughter of thousands of African rhinos by poachers interested only in the beasts' horns. Wanting to do something to stop what they call "this senseless killing," but knowing they couldn't do it alone, they decided to bring the plight of the rhinos to the world in an effort to garner funding, awareness and sympathy. The couple left Cape Town in December 1993 with nothing more than a specially outfitted 4x4 camper and a map of the world with a long dotted line meandering across it. Dubbing themselves the Rhino Awareness Expedition, in the last 20 months they've crossed the Atlantic ocean to the southernmost tip of South America and steadily made their way north across the Andes, through the upper tributaries of the Amazon and across the Panama Canal. They arrived in Honduras last week. Along the way, the travellers have held press conferences and presented slide shows at schools and universities -- all vividly describing the million-dollar rhino horn industry and its impact on this endangered species. AMBITIOUS ITINERARY After a short stint in Honduras, Schrumpf and Bell will continue their trip from Tierra del Fuego to northern Alaska, winding their way through the United States and Canada before crossing the Bering Strait and heading south from Siberia through Asia to the southernmost tip of India. From there, they'll head north west through the Middle East and eastern Europe to the northernmost city in Norway, where they'll turn south again, making their way through western Europe, across the Strait of Gibralter and hitting both the western and eastern coasts of Africa before returning to Cape Town. They carry with them five letters from the Mayor of Cape Town, which they will present to the mayors of the one city on each of the continents that is farthest away from their original destination: Ushuaia in Argentina, Prudhoe Bay in Alaska, Pevek in the Russian Siberia, Trivandrum in India and Hammerfest in Norway. BEASTS OF BURDEN The horn of the rhinocerous is a popular commodity in Asia, where it is sold powdered as a remedy for fever and arthritis, as well as for use as an aphrodisiac, say Schrumpf and Bell. Although the couple says these treatments have been "scientifically un-proven, of course we are fighting against age-old traditions, which are almost impossible to break." In 1972, the African rhino population was 70,000, according to an expedition press release. Today, there are only 3,500 animals left. "In Zimbabwe alone, the rhino population was shot out of existence, from 10,000 to 100 animals over a period of only 10 years," say Schrumpf and Bell. "In the vast areas of Zimbabwe's national parks, many rangers have lost their lives fighting the increasing number of poachers armed with automatic rifles," say the travellers. "For that reason, the authorities have introduced a unique law to protect these brave men. Any person seen or found within the borders of a national park carrying a rifle will automatically be shot. No questions asked." "In spite of this stringent law," they say, "the killing of the rhino goes on. The rewards are too high. The average African's salary is $500 per year. A poacher can receive double his yearly salary for one rhino horn, therefore making it very tempting. On the black market, a rhino horn can fetch as much as $100,000. The dealer makes a huge profit while the poor poacher risks his life." Schrumpf and Bell add that, "very often high-ranking officials, political and military personnel are involved in this mafia-style killing operation." OPEN HOMES AND HEARTS Schrumpf and Bell say "the journey so far has been an incredible experience, meeting many lovely people who have opened their hearts and their homes to us and the expedition." They say their slide presentation, titled "The Beauty and the Horrors of Africa," has taken them to places "ranging from a one-room schoolhouse in the Brazilian jungle to a 5,000 meter deep Borax mine in the Andes to the sophisticated British, German and American schools in the capital cities of the world. But not all of their experiences have been pleasant. The expedition has been robbed twice, the last attack leaving Schrumpf badly beaten, covered in stab wounds and abandoned in a Peruvian desert. Weak from loss of blood and bearing multiple fractures in his jaw, he managed to change a flat tire on his looted camper and drive 20 miles to the nearest hospital. There, his life was saved, but his jaw surgery was performed poorly. He was subsequently sent for emergency surgery in Germany and will require one more operation -- to remove four steel plates from his jaw -- before he is fully healed. HIGHLIGHTS Despite these downfalls, Schrumpf and Bell say the positive far outweighs the negative on their trek around the world, a trek that, once completed, will make the record books as the longest single route around the globe. They say the trip's highlights so far have been a three-day horse ride in Chile, visiting the Patagonia in Argentina, a 100 kilometer drive down a narrow one-way road through the Andes in Bolivia, the Incan ruins of Machu Pichu in Peru, a visit to Ecuador's Galapagos Islands, surviving two encounters with guerillas in Colombia, working as line handlers on the Panama Canal and watching leatherback turtles lay their eggs on a Costa Rican beach. By the time they finish their journey, Schrumpf and Bell will no doubt have many more stories to tell. But it's the epilogue, they say, that is most important. Nothing would give them more pleasure to be able to add to their list of adventures: "and we saved the rhinocerous from extinction." For information on specific travel plans, or to make a donation, you can reach the Rhino Awareness Expedition's Cape Town headquarters by fax at 021-790-1606. All of the funds raised during the trip will go to the South African Rhino and Elephant Foundation. |
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Health Information for TravelersBy BRAD MARTIN As you are planning your visit to Honduras, it is a good idea to consider your health and health information. The World Wide Web is filled with helpful information, including country profiles, travel health concerns and vaccines as well as the U.S. State Department publications. An excellent web site is Shoreland Travel Health Online at http://www.tripprep.com. Here you are advised to have recent medical and dental exams, check out your health and accident insurance and bring an adequate supply of all prescriptions, medications and personal hygiene items. Include an extra pair of eyeglasses or contact lenses if necessary. Visitors to Honduras are usually not at risk. Of course, you do need to exercise precaution on what you eat and personal cleanliness. Often travelers ask "should I get any vaccinations?" There are no vaccinations required for Honduras, unless you are coming from an area where yellow fever is present. If your visit is under six weeks and your health is good, vaccinations are not needed. If your stay is longer, or you have health concerns, you might consider vaccinations against Hepatitis A and B, tetanus and, if you are spending quite a bit of time in the rural areas, rabies and typhoid. Some of these need to be taken well in advance of your visit. Check it out with your doctor. There are a number of mosquito transmitted diseases present in Honduras, including dengue and malaria. Precaution can be taken by using mosquito repellent and an "itch eraser" such as After Bite. The anti-malaria drug chloroquine should be considered and is available at most Honduran pharmacies. The web site for malaria information is: http://www.who.ch/programmes/ctd/diseases/mala/ (World Health Organization - Malaria). Another good health web sites is http://www.moon.com/staying.healthy/travel.health.html. While in Honduras avoid drinking tap water. Purified water is easily available, as are soft drinks and canned or bottled beverages. Use mouth wash or purified water when brushing your teeth. Hondurans often use one drop of household bleach to half a liter of clear looking and fresh smelling tap water. Let stand for 30 minutes before drinking. This has proven effective for short term use. AIDS is also a concern in Honduras. Use precaution during any sexual contact. For further information on AIDS and how to prevent it, look up the Center for Disease Control web site at http://www.cdc.gov/cdc.htm. Enjoy your vacation. Naturally you need to show some caution, but don't go overboard to the point that it the joy out of being there. Quite often it seems no matter what we do, some of us will get sick and others will sail through their whole vacation without a problem. Think health, be healthy. |
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Fifty-something women take the Rio Platano Biosphere by stormBy JANICE SPRINGER
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It kind
of reminds me of Lake Tahoe on the California/Nevada
border. This lake is noted for its bass fishing. Here you
will find about fifty small fish restaurants along the
shore. Stop and enjoy a tasty fish dinner served with
pickled cold slaw, tortillas or plantains for about $3 to
$4. Usually you will be asked to chose your fish and the
price will be according to size. 