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CULTURAL

Monday, December 28, 1998 Online Edition 138

Honduran Kitchen Secrets Revived
Traditional Honduran Christmas foods

Honduran Christmas Fare--
Sweet potato pie, native to Comayagua pie meat and in the background "El Sartén" a culinary masterpiece.

By Rosibel Pacheco de Gutiérrez

In the clean and busy kitchen in a farm in El Zapote, in the Department of Comayagua, between Cedros and Minas de Oro, young Carolina Padgett enjoys learning the culinary secrets of her great grandmother, Mami Luz. Its Christmas time: the smell of eggnog, meat pie, pig roasting in the firewood oven and many other delicacies frame all the memories and experiences that will never leave her.

"I started cooking when I was 12 years old, I listened to my mother and great grand mother and kept their secrets. About five years ago I started a cultural rescue of Honduran dishes that have been forgotten...", says Carolina for Honduras This Week. "In reality, typical Honduran food goes way beyond what is considered as such (carne asada or barbecued meat, beans, fried plantain); dishes like chicken stewed in corn rice, the champinol, the montuca, the sartén, corn tamalitos and also sour orange candy, crystallized fig and papaya cider: those are our typical dishes".

Explaining a bit more about the meat pie, prepared especially for Christmas, Carolina tells us that it was also made for travelling because it keeps well without refrigeration. The tamal called "mudo" or mute is just corn dough and salt and it also served this purpose, being sliced to eat on the road.

Mami Luz's adoptive daughter, Teodora Cruz, taught Carolina another exquisite Honduran specialty: the "sartén" . This is a little known meal cooked in a large earthen pot, the content sticking lightly to the sides acquire a slightly smoky flavor, and then eaten with tortillas. Its ingredients are: sour cream,"cuajada" or cottage cheese, green pepper, hot pepper, milk and corn dough which are mixed and then cooked in the skillet. The big green peppers are stuffed with the smaller hot peppers, the cottage cheese and a mixture of the other ingredients. This dish is not stirred,which is why it sticks. If it is feasible, preferably it should be slow cooked in a firewood hearth for about 2 1/2 hours.

Honduran Meat PiesCarolina Padgett proudly shows off one of her fresh, out of the oven meat pies.

The traditional Honduran Christmas beverage is Eggnog which is prepared with milk, egg yolks, sugar, cinnamon, cloves, and "guaro", a strong Honduran liquor as preservative and to give it a little "kick". Carolina also prepares Rompopo to sell. One can read on the label: Mami Luz. Since the beverage is prepared only with egg yolks, Carolina uses the egg whites to prepare the famous "queque de angel"or angel cake, the name deriving from the fact that it is white, spongy and soft. "The timing to prepare it should be synchronized. From the moment you start making it until it is finished only ten minutes should pass. The sugar must be put in a blender to make it finer. It only requires a cup of flour and one must have it all ready; it is poured into the mold which is not greased; when it comes out of the oven it should be left to cool down as it is. The molds have little legs and the cake is left to cool off upside down. It should stick to the mold, if not, it falls and it looses volume. It should hang upside down like a bat".

Carolina is also a social worker at the church she attends, working in a program to help women attain economic self-sufficiency. She trains them in the preparation of good quality Honduran foods. "They can form their own cooperative and integrate micro-enterprises; food moves money quickly, they can work in their houses and when the quality of their product gets better, they can sell it in the supermarkets or at fairs". Up to now, Carolina has taught them to make wheat flour tortillas, nacatamales, "cambray" tamales, natural marmalades, milk candy and sour orange sweets. On January 20th. they will have their own distribution center.

Carolina sells many of her delicious fantasies. The "cambray" tamalitos are one of the most sought. You can call her and order at 232-0817 or 211-8801.

Her house smells delicious. On her walls one can see paintings done by her which reflect innocence and the pastoral lifestyle. Her sensibility expresses itself in a canvas, an aroma, a smile, sharing...

RECIPE FOR MEAT PIE

DOUGH

  • 6 Cups of Wheat Flour

  • 8 ounces of Lard

  • 1 Teaspoon of Baking Powder

  • 3 Tablespoons of White Wine with a touch of "achiote", a red coloring

  • 1 Cup of Sugar

  • 2 Eggs

  • 4-5 Tablespoons of Beef Gravy

STUFFING

  • 1/2 Lb. Pork Rump

  • 1/2 Lb. Beef Rump

  • String Beans

  • 3 Medium carrots

  • 4 Baby Corn on the Cob

  • 1/4 Cup Sweet Corn

  • 1 Ripe Plantain (Fried)

  • Raisins

  • Olives

  • Capers

  • Cumin

  • Pepper

  • Green Pepper

  • Onion

PREPARATION

The dough is prepared and is divided in two because the pie is covered. The Meat is minced and mixed with the spices and boiled for a while. The vegetables are cooked aside. When the meat and the vegetables are ready, the gravy is added along with the raisins, olives, capers, a sprinkle of Worcestershire Sauce, a pinch of sugar, the spices and then cooked slowly. When the dough is ready, the stuffing is placed on top of the first half and covered with the other half and cooked for 2-2 1/2 hours at 350 degrees C.

 


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Leary Memorial Gallery Opens

By JORGE FLORES McCLELLAN

One of the many outstanding traits of deceased painter Salvador Leary was the patronage he bestowed on fellow artists. He always stood by his famous friends with the purpose of expanding the artistic ambient. At the same time he led budding artists into this environment, encouraging them to excel.

Last Thursday, December 17th., his ex-wife, Ana Rosa Carias and his daughter, painter Rebecca Leary, opened Galeria, Cafe y Enmarcados Leary, all in the spirit bequeathed by the world reknowned artist, who died this year.

Here, the most famous painters, many of them close friends, and rising artists, including Rebecca, exhibit their work. In the gallery one can appreciate the work of Garay, Ruiz, Joel, Ordoñez and Castillo "enmarcados" or framed on the premises, where incidentally, Leary had his studio during the last three months of his life.

On opening night, Herminio Pineda, friend of the family, gave a speech to about 75 guests in which he talked about the feelings and ideas that brought out the creation of the gallery. Describing Salvador, he mentioned "servitud and multiplicity towards his family of blood and friends", one who "was always instilled with a vocation for art". He also commended Rebecca and her mother Ana for their courage and determination in keeping alive the memory of such a man as was Salvador with his dreams. The gallery, he said, is "a cultural medium, another healthy, agreeable environment for art."

Salvador Leary was a world famous artist, master of an unique pictoric abstract impressionism, whose modality had to be distinguished as "Learyan mastery". "I am my own language", he once said, "Costa Rican by birth, Honduran by heart", " bohemian, mistic and tender, although sometimes brusque". Winner of innumerable distinctions, his paintings adorn walls from Tegucigalpa to Tokyo, from Los Angeles to Moscow.

His daughter is following his stylish footsteps, as one can recognize instantly in her paintings, and although she has yet to develop her own style, she has got it in her blood. What better place to express art than among the Honduran masters in Galeria Leary?

Galeria, Cafe y Enmarcados Leary is located in Tegucigalpa on Boulevard Suyapa, across from the new Central American Bank Headquarters, right next to Spacios.


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My Wake Up Call

By VANESA PERÑISCO

Special to Honduras This Week

The sleeping children wake up to the smell of fresh dough for tamales. The smell wakes up all my cousins. Once we're up, we brush our little teeth and wash our faces, but we still don't change out of our pajamas. We run to the kitchen and our tamale breakfast plates are ready.

These tamales are different because how we make the dough is different. The style is from Honduras. We wrap them in green leaves and in foil so they can be boiled.

When we run to the kitchen and the tamales are ready to eat, mine would be the only plate with the whole wrapping still on because I like to unwrap mine by myself. When I open my tamalito, the steam moistens my face and the aroma is such that you can actually smell the heat and spices. This is what we eat on Christmas morning.

After tamalitos we jump for joy for the best part which is torrejas. We smelled them long before the tamales because we left them there to boil. Torrejas are pieces of bread dipped in egg, then fried and finally boiled with cooked brown sugar and a couple of cinnamon sticks. The smell is strong and real sweet. When they're served, they look like little mud pies that we used to play with.

When its time to eat them, we put the juices on top, so it looks real soggy when you eat it. I can feel and taste the aroma and the heat hitting my mouth. They feel real soggy and taste real sweet; the taste of hot brown sugar.

Recipe for 24 Torrejas:

Ingredients

  • 2 "Bolillo" loaves (yolk bread or french bread)

  • 4 eggs

  • 3 cups of brown sugar

  • 3 cinnamon sticks

  • 3 cups of water

Preparing the Sauce

Place 3 cups of water, 3 cinnamon sticks, and 3 cups of brown sugar in a pan and boil for 10 minutes.

Preparing the Bread

Slice the bread into loaves. Dip each slice on the beaten eggs. Fry on hot oil, one by one until done.

Bake at 250º for 20 minutes to remove excess oil until crispy. Dry each one with a paper towel.

Place bread slices in the pan with the prepared sauce, boil lightly.

The Maya Calendar
A guide to the best in Honduran culture

ANTHOLOGY OF HONDURAN ARTS -- THROUGH JANUARY 11 -- The Museum of the Honduran Man will host photography and cartoon exhibits, the National Art Gallery paintings and sculptures and the National Museum artwork of various categories.

NATIONAL ART GALLERY -- The Pro-Art and Culture Foundation and the National Gallery of Art are making space available for cultural exhibits for the benefit of the victims of Hurricane Mitch. For more information, call 237-9884, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

MUSIC

CHOIR -- The Secretary of Culture, Arts and Sports is organizing a and recruiting for poliphonic choir and will hold a informative meeting for all interested persons in participating on January 14, 1999 at the Direccion General de Educacion y Formacion Artistica, located on the second floor of the Waddy Atala building, Avenida La Paz, next to Honducard-Visa.

CLASSICAL MUSIC -- Stereo Concierto plays classical music from 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. seven days a week (98.3 FM). La Fragua Theater presents classical and great old-time music at 8 p.m. for listeners in the Valle de Sula (103.3 FM).

CLASSICAL MUSIC IN LA CEIBA -- THURSDAY AND FRIDAY -- The Foundation for the Cultural Center of La Ceiba presents classical music with interesting explanations on Radio El Patio (91.5 FM), Thursdays from 7 to 8 p.m. and on Super Stereo (97.5 FM) on Fridays from 1 to 2 p.m.

FRENCH RADIO -- SATURDAYS -- From 6 to 7 p.m. Radio 95.3 FM presents music in French. News and interviews in Spanish. Call 236-6800 for more information.

RADIO HONDURAS IS ON THE AIR -- Radio Nacional de Honduras, 101.3 F.M. and 800 A.M. is on the air since this week as part of the cultural ministry's educational and cultural-oriented programs. Enjoy these live cultural programs in Spanish on Radio Nacional de Honduras.

CLUBS

FAMILIES ANONYMOUS -- Families Anonymous (FA) meetings are held every Tuesday evening at the Union Church at 7:30 p.m. Call Eileen for more information at 239-9779 or 239-9778.

AL-ANON FAMILY GROUPS -- Al-Anon helps the relatives and friends of problem drinkers. Groups met weekly in Colonia Alameda (Saturday afternoons) and Colonia Loarque (Sunday evenings). For more information, contact Amanda at 239-2698 (Spanish) or Margaret at 226-6576 (English).

WEIGHT WATCHERS -- Weight Watchers, an international weight loss program with over 40 years of experience in helping people maintain a healthier lifestyle is offering classes in Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula. To join or for more information, contact Juan Cueva Membreño at 239-0161.

ENGLISH SPEAKING WOMEN'S CLUB -- The ESWC invites all English-speaking women to attend its teas held the second Thursday of each month at 2:30 p.m. at the Restaurante La Hacienda on Blvd. Morazán. There will be no lecture or tea during December, and the ESWC will not meet again until the second Thursday in January 1999. For more information, call Sara at 211-8369.

LEARNING

NATIONAL PUBLIC LIBRARY WILL MOVE -- January 1999 -- The National Public Library is currently being moved to the old Tipografía Building on Avenida Cervantes, two blocks from the Central Park Cathedral. The new facilities will feature a modern interior including an audio-visual department, a children's room and Internet connections with 12 other Honduran public libraries.

MUSEUM OF NATURE -- The Museum of Nature of San Pedro Sula was opened to the public last week. It has different areas of interest and learning. Located in Barrio Las Acacias, 3 Ave. 9 Calle N.O., it is open Monday to Friday from 8 to 5 p.m. and Saturday from 8 a.m. to noon. Fees are Lps. 1.50 for public school children and Lps. 10 for private school children.

ART, LEARNING & TUTORING FOR CHILDREN -- The Art and Education

Center, BONAMPAK, at the Plaza Millennium, is currently offering hourly art courses for children ages 6 to 12 on Mondays and Wednesdays, as well as Tuesdays and Thursdays from 3 to 5 p.m. Hourly reading courses for children ages 7 to 12 are being held on Fridays from 4 to 6 p.m., as well as for children ages 4 to 6. Tutoring services are also available. Call 222-5487 for more information.

CHILDREN'S LIBRARY -- The Centro Cultural Infantil of San Pedro Sula currently has a program titled "The Reading Corner" offering young people a chance to read and listen to stories in a comfortable environment. The library of this center holds a "Story Hour" daily and has a study area where students may do research. For more information about CCI services, call 557-8639.

POTPOURRI

HURRICANE MITCH PRESENTATION -- Biocentro in San Pedro Sula is currently giving a presentation about Hurricane Mitch.

CHRISTMAS BAZAAR -- The Anthropology and History Museum of San Pedro Sula is currently holding a Christmas Bazaar of clay objects, porcelain, corn husk handicrafts and more. Prices are low and the event will last throughout December.

LIVE -- TONIGHT -- D'Barro Restaurant on Juan Manuel Gálvez Avenue in Colonia Alameda provides live entertainment Friday and Saturday nights. Showtime is 9 p.m. and admission is Lps. 30. For more information, call 239-6905.

BOHEMIAN NIGHTS -- THURSDAYS -- The Pérgola Piano Bar located in the Hotel Copantl of San Pedro Sula presents "Noches de Bohemia" every Thursday from 8 to 10 p.m. This weekly event is an opportunity to visit with a variety of local artists while enjoying your favorite cocktails.

CULTURAL REVIEW -- SATURDAYS -- Radio San Isidro (San Pedro Sula) presents a review of cultural happenings on Saturdays at 4 p.m.

HAPPY HOUR -- FRIDAYS -- The Hotel Honduras Maya has a happy hour every Friday from 5 to 9 p.m. with live music. More information at 232-3191.

MUSEUMS AND GARDENS

TEGUCIGALPA

MUSEO DE HISTORIA REPUBLICANA

The Museum of Republican History is located at the Villa Roy building in Tegucigalpa's Barrio Buenos Aries. It is open 8:30 to 3:30, Tuesdays through Sundays and features portraits, paraphernalia, and other interesting items from past presidents. Admission is Lps. 20 for non-resident foreigners and Lps. 10 for Hondurans and Central Americans. For more information, call 222-3470 or 222-1468.

CENTRAL BANK MUSEUM

The Central Bank of Honduras located at the Comayaguela annex building is open from 9 a.m. to noon and from 1 to 4 p.m., Monday to Friday. It has a permanent coin and painting exhibit. For special presentations, call the Emision y Tesoreria department at 237-2270 (-78), ext. 2117 (-2120). [CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE.]

NATIONAL ART GALLERY

The Galeria Nacional de Arte features rock art, pre-Columbian ceramics, colonial paintings, religious art and a wide selection of 20th century Honduran painters. The gallery is located at the Plaza de la Merced in downtown Tegucigalpa. It is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10-5 p.m. and Sunday from 10-2 p.m. Admission is Lps. 10 for adults, Lps. 5 for senior citizens, Lps. 3 for students and Lps. 1 for children accompanied by adults.

IGUANA FARM

The Biosfera Ecocentro Iguana Farm in Colonia La Joya invites the public to come and learn everything about iguanas. Admission is Lps. 5 for adults, Lps. 3 for children. The facility is open every day (except Wednesday) from 9 to 5. For more information, call 230-6346.

COMAYAGUA, COMAYAGUA

COMAYAGUA COLONIAL MUSEUM

Located in the city of Comayagua, 2 hours north from Tegucigalpa, the Comayagua Colonial Museum is in the building that served as home to the government in the 19th century. It contains objects used by indigenous cultures and the Spanish during the pre-Colombian and Colonial eras.

COMAYAGUA RELIGIOUS MUSEUM

Located in the Casa Cural in front of Comayagua's cathedral, this museum features religious paintings and objects dating back to the 16th century. Hours are 8-12 and 2-4 p.m., Mondays through Fridays. For more information, contact Leonardo Letona at 772-0348.

LA PAZ, LA PAZ

LA PAZ HOUSE OF CULTURE

The La Paz Casa de la Cultura is located in downtown La Paz. It features an attractive exhibit of the Lenca handicrafts and culture. It is open Mondays through Sundays.

SAN PEDRO SULA, CORTES

SAN PEDRO SULA MUSEUM

The Museo de San Pedro Sula is located between 3rd and 4th Avenues, 4th Street N.O. in San Pedro Sula. It is open from 10 a.m. to 4:15 p.m., Tuesdays through Sundays. Admission is Lps. 5 for adults, Lps. 2 for students (must present valid ID) and Lps. 2 for children under 12 years of age. (Tel: 557-1496, Fax: 552-7091)

MUSEUM OF NATURE OF SAN PEDRO SULA

Sponsored and managed by the Fundacion Ecologista H.R. Pastor Fasquelle, this new museum was inaugurated last December in its current location at the Biocentro on 3 Avenida and 9 Calle Noroeste. It has 24 exhibits on the environment, natural resources and biology of Honduras. Hours are 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily and 8 a.m. until noon on Saturdays. Admission is Lps 5 for students from public schools and Lps. 10.00 for everyone else.

YUSCARAN, EL PARAISO

YUSCARAN HOUSE OF CULTURE

Yuscaran's Casa de la Cultura is located at the former Casa Fortin in downtown Yuscaran, El Paraiso department, just 45 km from Tegucigalpa on the road to Danli. It is open Mondays through Saturdays.

OLANCHO

PECH CULTURAL CENTER

The Pech have built a small house in El Carbon, Olancho to display their modern handicrafts. An exhibit of archaeological finds in the area is planned. You can ask to see the collection and/or get a tour of a Post Classic era fortified site. The Pech Cultural Center also offers medicinal plant tours, nature hikes, Pech dinners, etc. There is no admission fee to the cultural center. Hours: If you ask, they will open it.

COPAN

COPAN ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

Located in the village of Copan Ruinas, Copan department, the museum exhibits a splendid assortment of Mayan pieces that have been found in the Copan Ruins Archaeological Park just 1 km away.

LA PUENTE ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

Featuring a sizeable collection of Mayan handicrafts and photographs as well as a room with Japanese antique ceramics, this museum is located at the El Puente Archaeological Site, about an hour's drive from Copán Ruinas.

MAYAN SEPULTURAS MUSEUM

Inaugurated in 1996, this is the premier Mayan museum in the Mundo Maya, featuring the finest examples of Copán's tombs, sculptures and architecture. Located at the Copán Ruins Archaeological Park, the museum is open Monday through Sunday.

TELA, ATLANTIDA

LANCETILLA BOTANICAL GARDENS

Located 2 kilometers from Tela on the Atlantic coast highway, the gardens feature one of the largest collections of tropical and subtropical plants, shrubs and trees in all Latin America. It is open from 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Mondays through Sundays. There is an admission charge.

GARIFUNA MUSEUM

This Garifuna-run museum in Tela, Atlantida has an almost complete collection of the different handicrafts made by the Garifunas. If you ask, they have a written guide in English available. The museum also houses the Garifuna handicraft shop and part of the Tela Artist Association's Art Gallery. The rest of the Gallery and the Garifuna restaurant have moved to the Garifuna Plaza on the beach next to the Bahia Azul Hotel. Tours of the Garifuna Museum to home/studios of Garifuna artists, medicinal plant tours, dance presentations, and tours/overnight stays in local Garifuna villages can be arranged at either the Museum or Garifuna Plaza. The museum is open 9 to 5 while Garifuna Plaza is open 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Admission is Lps. 5. The museum is located next to the river, one block up from the bridge that goes to Telamar and the local churches.

LA CEIBA, ATLANTIDA

BUTTERFLY AND INSECT MUSEUM

Thousands of butterflies and insects from Honduras and 18 other countries are on display in La Ceiba' private Butterfly and Insect Museum. It is located in Colonia El Sauce, 2nd etapa, casa G-12. Visiting hours are 8-12 and 2-5, Monday through Saturday. The museum is closed Wednesday afternoon. Fees are Lps. 15 for adults and Lps. 10 for students. Tel. 442-2874, e-mail: rlehman@ns.gbm.hn

TRUJILLO

TRUJILLO RUFINO GALAN MUSEUM

A private museum which has a memorabilia section, old chairs, anchors, silverware, beds of famous people locally. There is an industrial archaeology section on how lights, axes, stoves, sewing machines, typewriters have changed over time. They have a good collection of Garífuna handicrafts and the best collection

of NE Honduras archaeological pieces -- all unmarked. A written guide to the museum is available at the Trujillo Tourism Office in English and Spanish. The museum is open 8 to 4, closing for lunch. Adults Lps. 20, children Lps. 10. Located on Calle 18 de Mayo, next to the Crystales River and the famous "piscina" or pool, about a 15-minute walk out of town.

ROATAN, THE BAY ISLANDS

CARAMBOLA BOTANICAL GARDENS

The private Carambola Botanical Gardens and Nature Trails is located in Sandy Bay, Roatan, Bay Islands. A wide variety of exotic plants is featured here, including "Roatan's most extensive orchid collection." It is open daily from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. For more information, call 445-1117 and ask for Bill or Irma Brady.

BAY ISLANDS MUSEUM

A private museum at Anthony's Key Resort, Sandy Bay, Roatan, Bay Islands, it mostly includes archaeological pieces, but there is a

small section on the modern Bay Islanders. Museum admission is included in the cost of the dolphin show at Anthony Key's Institute of Marine Sciences. Small buses or taxis will take you to Sandy Bay from most Roatán towns.

The Maya Calendar is a public service for our readers. If you would like to announce an event taking place in Honduras, please send the information to: Calendar Editor, Honduras This Week, Fax 232-2300, e-mail: hontweek@hondutel.hn

Monday, December 21, 1998 Online Edition 137

Trujillo Museum reveals northeast's early history

By WENDY GRIFFIN

The private Trujillo Museum is probably Honduras' most misunderstood museum. As it is almost completely unlabeled, by choice of its owner, at first glance it looks like a collection of things people meant to throw away. In guidebooks, it receives mixed reviews with the best comments often for the remains of a crashed USAF airplane from Contra war days.

However, IHAH archaeologist Emilio Aguilar has said, "I think their archaeological collection is better than what was at the National Museum." The National Museum's archaeological and ethnographic collections have been withdrawn from public display for two years, so the Trujillo Museum currently has the best northeast Honduras collection on display.

Their Garifuna collection is also good, but to understand it, it is recommended to get either a guide or pamphlet from the Trujillo Tourism Office.

The oldest piece in the Trujillo Museum is a ceremony bottle gourd or tecomate found in the Cuyamel Caves. Caves were considered gateways to the underworld by Mesoamericans. A similar piece, also from the Cuyamel Caves, was dated to 1000 BC by IHAH archaeologists. Some possible Olmec influence was reported for these cave burials by Canadian archaeologist Paul Healy.

It is possible to arrange tours to the caves, which are located in the Capiro and Calentura National Park near Trujillo. These is an old Indian road leading up to the caves called the Colibri (Hummingbird) Road. Roads going to ceremonial centers are common in Mesoamerica, and have been reported for cities in the area where the legendary White City is reputedly located.

Some of the statues at the museum may also come from this early Formative time period (1000 BC-300 AD). A number of the statues show disproportional large baby-faced heads, small bodies, some in acrobatic poses similar to Olmec style. Some of these show the hero twins of Mesoamerican myths. There are other pieces with the very angular features of the southern Olmec style.

Unfortunately, the pieces in the Trujillo Museum are picked up by the owner when it rains on different known sites. Taking stone statues away from their surroundings make them difficult or impossible to date. The museum has petroglyphs as well as statues.

It appears the museum has very little from the Classic Period (300-900 AD). The only site excavated near Trujillo from this period shows groups who emphasized hunting, fishing and seafood collection, such as the Pech and Tolupanes.

These groups probably had contact, though, with western Honduras because the Trujillo Museum now has on display some very finely preserved pieces of Ulua Polychrome, a ceremonial ceramic produced in the Ulua valley near San Pedro Sula until about 1000 AD.

Most of the archaeological pieces in the museum probably date from the Post Classic period (900-1500 AD). During that period there was a large province whose capital with an estimated 1,000 houses, Papayeca, was located near Trujillo.

This province had 18 towns and leaders with Nahuat names like Mazatl (deer), while the neighboring province of Chapagua (Damp house in Nahuat) had 10 towns. The two provinces were allied, with Papayeca (the place of the head priest Papa in Nahuat) being the capital. The Bay Islands were also part of this alliance.

Half the archaeological section is taken up by North Coast applique ceramics that have very elaborate handles and feet. These are known as yaba-ding-dings in the Bay Islands, where this ceramic is also common. It extends into the Valley of Agalta and also has been found near possible White City sites.

Glass cases below the Garifuna exhibit show the most interesting stone remains of this civilization. Remarkable in their execution are a small jade man on his knees and a carved lechuza or owl. It is belief among Hondurans that witches change themselves into owls, so the owl is a bad omen. This was originally a nahuat belief, says Spanish linguist Atanasio Herranz.

A large shiny, black, conical-shaped object is an obsidian core. Trujillo does not appear to have a source of obsidian, a volcanic glass, nearby, so it was brought by merchants in cones. Then workmen fashioned the obsidian into knife blades, lance points, awls, and particularly blades for macanas.

A macana was a weapon made of a sharp obsidian blade inset in mahogany. Both sharp and heavy, the weapon gave rise to the words macanear (to beat) and macanazo (a beating), still in common use today. The museum has a whole bowl of macana blades points.

Other stone pieces had more peaceful uses. Large green marble earspools, necklace beads and pendants are on display. The style of green pendants -- half person and half axe celt -- have also been found in Costa Rica in the Chorotega/Nicarao area. The green stone war spools on display are also common in Mexico. The source of stone seems to have been the Colon/Olancho border, where artisans still work this green stone. Smaller green stone beads have been found near possible White City sites.

Next to this case and in another case, there are several grooved stones. These are bark beaters used by Mesoamericans to make bark paper. Northeast Honduras is unusual for the wide range in sizes of its grinding stones, called metates in Spanish. Some are small enough to be children's toys, and some large enough to sit on. The museum has almost the entire range, including the large carved leg of the tables that might be thrones in the White City area. Some metates seem to have a ceremonial purpose.

Archaeologist Chris Begley reported in Honduras This Week that the White City area shows both Mayan and Nahuat influence. Mayan influence is seen in carved stone statues that show the face and feather headdress in profile, but the torso and crossed legs in front. The Trujillo Museum has acquired several pieces like this, also reported around the Laguna de Ibans. So while the location for the White City still remains unclear, parts of its archaeological heritage can be seen at the Trujillo Museum.

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Monday, December 14, 1998 Online Edition 136

El nacimiento:
A Honduran Christmas tradition

s8-12-14c.jpg (25427 bytes)

By KETZI CHACON ZYLSTRA

The creche is one of the most celebrated traditions in Latin America, where putting together a nativity scene is a complete ritual that invites all family members to participate in the symbolic creation of a new world.

In the case of Foreign Minister Fernando Martinez, we find ourselves facing someone who not only has followed the traditions that his mother has inculcated in him from childhood, but also has transformed these traditions into a unique representation of the geography and history of Honduras.

In addition to representing the birth of Jesus Christ, the creche offers a vision in miniature of the country, its various regions and also seeks to portray the most important events of the year.

This year's nacimiento deals with the recent effects of Hurricane Mitch. However, Martinez chose to show not just the negative sides, such as the flooding in Lima or the devastating situation in Comayaguela, but also the positive attitude that he says we all ought to bring to the work of reconstruction. There is a memorial expressing gratitude to all the countries that have helped Honduras, and a homage to recently deceased and much-loved Mayor Cesar Castellanos. Martinez also offers his own ideas for reconstructing Comayaguela.

In this way, through the contemplation of his creation, the artist invites us to reflect on a Christian celebration in which the history of the past, the present situation, and proposals for the future come together to give us one of the most original representations of what Honduras is and could be.

The nacimiento can be seen from 5 to 9 p.m. in the Colonia Lomas del Guijarro, Ave. Enrique Tierno Galvan, #3334, one block east of the Sagrado Corazan Institute.

 

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Monday, December 7, 1998 Online Edition 135

From January to December, enjoy colorful Garifuna fairs

By WENDY GRIFFIN

When the Garifunas first came to Honduras in 1797, the Spanish authorities were afraid they would unite with the Blacks, Mulattoes, and Sambos (Miskitos married to Blacks) to take over the Caribbean Coast. To avoid this, the governor suggested throwing the Garifunas back into the sea. But instead, they sent Catholic friars to teach them Christianity. One of the main teaching tools was the Patron Saint's fair.

The Garifunas soon adopted this custom. Central Honduran fairs are influenced by pre-Columbian fairs and practices. The Garifunas adopted some elements of this tradition, some medieval Spanish practices, but added their own traditions as well. This gives Garifuna fairs a different flavor from Ladino fairs.

There really are fairs from year beginning to year end. From Jan. 10-25 Corrozal, next to La Ceiba, celebrates its fair in honor of Nuestro Senor de Esquipulas, a Black Christ figure. Limon's Patron Saint fair is the first two weeks of December for the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception.

If you wanted to see back to back fairs, summer is a good time. Tela and the community of San Antonio near Trujillo celebrate their fairs in early june. The last two weeks of June is when Trujillo and Santa Fe celebrate their fairs in honor of St. John the Baptist. In late July, Punta Gorda on Roatan celebrates its fair and Santa Rosa de Aguan, considered one of the best fairs, celebrates this the last two weeks of August. There is a book that lists Patron Saint fairs, but it is hard to get.

The Garifunas around Trujillo have a belief for the reason that there are a large number of fairs around the middle and end of June. They invite the saint for the fair and he has a good time. In fact, he is sad and angry when it is all over. So, he causes large thunderstorms and lightning to come after the rain, reports Sebastian Martin of Trujillo. Last year, thunderstorms did begin the day the fair ended.

In other Caribbean countries where santerismo (a mixture of African and Catholic beliefs) exists, St. John the Baptist became mixed up with the Yoruba god Xango or Chango. This may explain why St. John was originally chosen as the patron saint of so many Garifuna towns, as well as beliefs that he brings the rain. By now, any memory of who the African gods were has been lost among the Garifunas who are overwhelming Catholic.

Fairs are made up of a combination of religions and non-religious activities. In Trujillo, processions with the patron saint to different parts of the town at dawn and in the evening are popular. In the different neighborhoods, the people organize prayer services, lasting for hours, often done in the Garifuna language as part of the all night vigil or velada. Each dance club of Trujillo chooses one night during the fair to dance hungu hungu, a traditional Garifuna women's dance as part of the all night vigil. Not all communities do that.

For towns that do not have year round priests, the fair is still a time to do baptisms, but not weddings, since Garifuna's seldom marry in the church. The night before the saint's day is the general all night mass on the grounds of the church, which can be accompanied by pieces prepared by children.

One of the activities most enjoyed by children at the fair is the coronation. Each fair elects a child queen of the fair (reina infantil). Not only is the queen crowned, accompanied by loud speakers, a Master of Ceremonies and the elementary school drum corps, but so are each of the princesses and the ladies of her court. Each lady, often no older than eight, is accompanied by a gentleman escort, dressed in a black suit, white shirt and white gloves.

In some communities, there are also elections of a teenage queen of the fair, often a fund-raising event at a local disco. The expense that goes into dresses, shoes, and tiaras is incredible. There is sometimes a third coronation for the Madrina or Godmother of the fair. If you miss the coronation itself, you can see the queens again during the parade for the fair, complete with floats accompanied by high and grade school bands.

Honduran fairs include dancing. There are popular dances, dances brought by the Spanish, and Garifuna festive dances. Some towns like Trujillo and la Ceiba organize carnavalitos in different parts of the city. The main activities here are dancing in the street and eating. People go back and forth between dancing in the street and in the discos. Dances here include punta, parranda, merengue, reggae, and other popular dance music in Spanish, Garifuna and English.

To teach Christianity, the Spanish introduced the dance-theater piece "Moors and Christians." The whole piece takes two or three weekends to present, since it includes negotiations and threats that fail, which lead to the main battle. This dance known as Tiras in Garifuna is a highlight of the Punta Gorda fair. The other Spanish-influenced dance is Flandigana or Mojiganga, done with a doll 8 or 9 feet tall.

In traditional communities like Limon and Santa Rosa, traditional Garifuna dances like mascaro, Piamandi, May Pole, and Brisi Lama dominate the fair. In Limon, one drummer said, "Every afternoon and every night for 15 days there is some dance going on. It is 15 days without sleep."

Previously, fairs also included traditional games such as races to climb greased poles, but no longer, regrets Loyola Gonzales of Santa Fe. Gambling games, also present and always controversial, make a poor replacement for more traditional amusements.

Annual arts anthology set to open this week

By Ketzi Chacon Zylstra

Since 1990, the Anthology of Honduran Arts has been a showcase for over 200 well-known and not so well-known artists. This year's Anthology, which is the brainchild of the Spanish International Cooperation Agency (AECI), will be held at three different museums.

"After being so busy with matters dealing with agriculture and primary education, we thought it was the time to focus a little on the culture," said Augusto Serrano, Cultural Attache with the Embassy of Spain.

"At the beginning, painting was the only art involved, because in Honduras it is the most predominant of the plastic arts, but later we began to include other forms, such as sculpture, photography and cartoons."

The goal of the show is threefold: first, to reflect the identity of the artists; second, to show new or unknown talents by giving an opportunity to participate to those persons who may have talent but lack resources. Finally, the Anthology wants to serve as a sort of memorial for past artists who have faded from the memory of most Hondurans. Every Anthology gives tribute to a famous Honduran painter. "This way we take some of their work, which in many cases are on the walls of private collectors, and share it with a larger public," said Serrano.

"In the final analysis, I think this is a very generous Anthology due to the fact that we accept works of varying quality," Serrano added. "Sometimes, it has been very criticized for this fact. But the fact is that we don't want to make it so restrictive, primarily because there are very few painters and artists in Honduras that have been able to build a consistent and mature work over the years, and if we were to include just these artists, in the end there would always be the same few people in the exhibition. The anthology has not been as dull-witted as some have said, because we know that there are many people that perhaps are simply amateurs, and paint only a few or even only one painting. Maybe they've never exhibited their work and all of a sudden get a chance to appear in the catalog."

From a aesthetical point of view, Honduran painters have perhaps yet to create an original or innovative style. Daniel Vasquez, director of the National School of Fine Arts, views his students and contemporaries in a realistic way.

"Basically, what our artists are doing involves such genres as abstractionism, neofigurism, expressionism and neoexpresionism, and also many landscape artists whose works are considered naive. In Honduras, we are like a child playing with a new toy, taking up old subjects with renewed enthusiasm. Many of the artists have the chance to go to Europe where they may receive European influences; therefore, we may talk about a plastic and aesthetic transculturalization in which techniques are just elements of a puzzle to work in creating an Honduran identity that is trying to understand who we are and what are the elements that we consider aesthetically beautiful or valid."

This year the anthology, scheduled to open December 11, will be held in three museums. The photography and cartoon exhibits will be shown at the Foundation for the Honduran Man, while paintings and sculptures will be exhibited at the National Art Gallery. Additional works in all categories will be exhibited at the Museo Nacional. This year's Anthology is dedicated to painter Anibal Cruz.

 

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