By DON PEARLY

If you ever want to throw a great party, find Mr. Guillermo Anderson, the man out in front of a dynamic musical group known as "Ceibena." To get a little feel for what they do, run out and purchase their CD called "Costa y Calor." In fact, perhaps you should buy two as you will no doubt wear the first one out as it is so good.

Bayman contracted them for a pre-New Year's Eve dance and a New Year's Eve Gala on the beach. Absolutely no one, young or old, was able to listen to them without doing two things: smile and move their bodies. This group broadcasts energy, enthusiasm, happiness, rhythm and probably Vitamin "A". Once started, they will not stop. Punta, parranda, calypso and reggae to name a few of their many styles. We finally had to shut off their amplifiers at the generator to get them to end the show, but they then switched over to acoustical guitars and drums.

And everyone wants to know what Flavia Guity, their lead dancer, uses for fuel. It is absolutely go, go, go, never missing a beat never. On the serious side, it is no wonder the Ministry of Culture sends "Ceibena" to represent Honduras every chance they get. Their music and dance is very representative of our country.

* * *

Bayman serviced a full compliment of private guests from all over the world hosted by Dr. Jerry Croghan and Mr. Luis Hedgcock, as well as some 60 drop-ins. The multitude of little skiffs threatened to pull over the new pier but it held up just fine. Talk about a fun evening: party hats and streamers and whistles and bells, fireworks and a giant bonfire courtesy of Mr. and Mrs. Jim Springer (the team who blew up the Bridges of Madison County) and a great food buffet prepared by Chef Raul and his staff. Everything you would get in New York City plus our fabulous weather.

If you missed this one too bad, it won't happen for another one thousand years. However, smaller ones will occur every normal year in-between and Guillermo Anderson will be there. Next time, be there or be square.

* * *

From the newsroom at the U. S. Embassy in Tegucigalpa. Remember my suggestion for special circumstances in needing a Travel Visa? Well, not because of anything I suggested, but rather because I was unaware of what was already in place, I do now have the following information.

There is a way to go with special requests, a fax line you may send your facts to. This is specifically for time essential problems where the regular Banco Atlantida reservation system fails to fill the bill. Now remember, "I have my ticket and I want to go but I have been too busy to ask for my visa until today, the day before I fly to Disneyland" does not constitute an emergency situation. Just guessing, a death in the immediate family or perhaps serious health conditions of family in the States might

qualify someone for special considerations. Believe me, they do have hearts in the visa section at the Embassy, it is just that they must protect them from people with hidden agendas.

Finally, just having a legitimate time essential problem does not mean the person wanting to travel does not have to document all of the usual statistics. House and land ownership papers, bank accounts, employment situation, plus proof of future employment situations, family ties, proof of on-going private businesses, etc. Prior passport entries to the States should help convince them you were trusted once and performed so they will more than likely do the same this time.

Because of a lot of conditions lurking in the background, you must always remember there are hundreds and hundreds of thousands people who would lie, cheat or sneak to be able to gain access to the United States. Some of us who have chosen to live here might find that hard to understand, but then again we have the choice to bounce in and out, something Honduran citizens do not have. That is why they must be certain of your intentions to visit and return on time are so essential.

Next edition, all about investment opportunities and good dining places on Guanaja -- that's Guanaja with a "G." You cannot have one without the other.

By WENDY GRIFFIN

What Spanish-language students on the mainland say they miss the most is bagels. Now Lender's frozen bagels hare available from grocery stores on Roatan in the Bay Islands. But to get hot bagels with cream cheese, served with scrambled eggs full of onions, tomatoes and cheese, you will have to breakfast at the Que Tal Cafe in Coxen Hole, Roatan.

Bagels would also make a good lunch. Try a Sunburst sandwich, which is an open-faced bagel served with cream cheese, tomato, onion and seasonings.

Honduras is the land of tortillas and bread is not a strong point, except white coconut bread. Que Tal also offers deli sandwiches or soup and sandwiches on homemade whole wheat bread. Homemade biscuits accompany the soup.

People who live on the mainland are used to only three kinds of cheese -- queso (hard, white, salty cheese), quesillo (soft, salty cheese), and queso kraft (American processed cheese). To be offered a variety of cheeses like provolone for your lunch sandwich or salad is pretty amazing. In a country where most people say almuerzo (lunch) and eat whatever is served, it even feels strange to be asked, "And how would you like your sandwich?"

Lunch also features specials. One example is the oriental chicken sandwich, which has ginger, soy and honey glaze served on a toasted roll and with a salad. The soups look wonderful, such as black bean chili or Tuscan pasta soup.

Serving coffee has become complicated. Que Tal Cafe offers espresso, espresso Americano, cappuccino, cafe latte, cafe mocha, iced coffee and flavor shots. Another surprise is a wide assortment of Celestial Seasonings teas, like cinnamon apple spice, cranberry cove, and peppermint. Different kinds of milk shakes/licuados are also a good thing to tide you over between lunch and dinner.

Que Tal has been open in Coxen Hole since 1994. The restaurant used to be on the main road into town. The new location at the crossroads of the highway from West End and the entrance to Coxen Hole allows people to sit down on a second-floor balcony and watch the traffic go by.

Do you need to contact your family? Que Tal offers e-mail service, $2 to send and $1 to receive. Internet service is also available. The e-mail address is <quetal@globalnet.hn>.

The restaurant is open from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday to Friday. This schedule is because people usually go into Coxen Hole on business on working days, says owner Kim Dueffert. So if all of this rain makes you hungry for hot soup and wonderful bread, try Que Tal Cafe on Roatan.

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By HOWARD ROSENZWEIG

According to Guatemala Lifestyles Newsletter, Telgua, the Guatemalan phone company has just come out with a real deal! For a $90 down payment and $36 a month for 24 months, they will give you a new ACER computer with all the bells and whistles and free, unlimited net access.

Compare this to Honduras where one has to beg, plead, bribe and bed down with the devil himself in order to request Internet service through HONDUTEL (and still there is no assurance that HONDUTEL will be able to provide Internet access). For my part, it only took me something like three years to first get a phone line installed here in Copan Ruinas and then HONDUTEL bluntly told me that they could not offer me Internet access (no reason given of course).

So I did what any red-blooded, free-market capitalist would do, I ran over to the nearest private sector server, Mayanet in San Pedro Sula, which quickly hooked me up with an Internet connection. Only problem is that every time I connect it means a long distance call to San Pedro Sula, which can run into big bucks. For example if I surf the Web for an average of 1 hour per night, checking a few sites, sending and receiving some mail, etc. then by the end of the month I'd run up a HONDUTEL bill of some Lps. 3,600 ($248 at the current exchange rate, and this doesn't include a $20 monthly fee to the server Mayanet)

Well, so much for jumping on the information superhighway! Here in Copan it's a simple matter of logging on each evening: send and receive your e-mail that you diligently saved up all day long and then log off asap. Frustrating you may ask? Most definitely! There is so much available on the Internet that I could be content to sit at my recently acquired Gateway rig from dawn to dusk; surfing the web, marketing and promoting my business, responding to potential guests' questions, maintaining correspondence with family and friends around the world, listen to music, read the New York Times, engage in a little bit of risque cyber extracurricular activities, all of which are completely out of bounds due to the prohibitive costs of long-distance phone rates and a dearth of local-based servers in Honduras.

One can hope however that salvation is just around the corner, the upcoming, long-delayed and hopefully in the works privatization of the state-owned Honduran National Phone Company is just a matter of time. Honduras, as is customary, is always behind the curve when it comes to new trends and policies. We are one of the last (or the last) to privatize a state-run phone company. So while neighboring countries sport a bevy of brand spanking new telecommunications infrastructure, here in Honduras we are leagues behind, holding up the rear.

And speaking of being behind the curve and allowing neighboring countries to take the lead, one only needs to look at tourism. Guatemala has just released its 1999 numbers showing that a total of 820,000 visitors came to Guatemala that year, generating some $544 million. Since 1996 when outgoing President Arzu assumed office, tourism has increased a whopping 58 percent and the amount of dollars generated has almost doubled. In 1996, 520,000 visitors arrived, spending $284 million. Compare these numbers to Honduras, which consistently takes in a paltry $160 million per year from tourism.

How to interpret the disparity? Well, Guatemala markets itself, promotes itself, they have tourism offices in Europe and the Unites States and the private sector shakes their booty as well. They are on the net, they e-mail, they market, they promote, they provide top quality services and products at a fair price, it's that simple. Shoot, Guatemala even has had a recent ad running on that global powerhouse of powerhouses, CNN, which promoted Guatemala as an exotic, colorful, ecological, historical, fun option for a vacation. Taken all together as a package, it is little wonder that Guatemalan tourism has taken great strides in the past three years.

It has been suggested I do a "Duncan Hines" around Guanaja. Translation, pick out some of the favorite eating spots that might peak your culinary interests.

On the Key itself we have probably a half a dozen cute little local restaurants that feature tipico plate lunches. The Silver Dollar Restaurant, run by the lovely and talented Isabel has fried chicken, tacos, plantain, carne de res and many other island favorites. It is clean and nice and cool and friendly. Plenty of ice cold beverages to drink with your meal and the prices are extremely reasonable.

Then across from Comercial Wood the grocery/hardware/boat/specialty General Store there is a brand new cafe so new I have not had the chance to try their fare but knowing the owners makes me believe it will be done right. I hear they have hot sandwiches, cold drinks and lots of in between. Y will make it a point to go there personally next week when we are in town.

Coming off the Zapata pier you will be attracted by the smell of fresh baked goodies. Sweet rolls, bread, sandwiches, frosty cold soft drinks and juices. They do a lot of to-go business as well and sit down in the shade for a snack type.

Over in Sandy Byte is the Italian influence. A most marvelous dining room wrapped around the kitchen serves all the special food originating in Italy. It is called the "Lamp" but in Italian. The ambiance is a plus with a view of the pool area and the Caribbean in the background is very

nicely done. Wonderful personalized service by the owners and a well trained staff is another plus. Prices are modest to just above modest. The menu boasts such fare as pizza, cannelloni, spaghetti and the special of the day. They have a big horno or clay baking oven in the back that turns out the most scrumptious of delicacies the old fashioned way. You can smell the menu for miles around.

POSADA del SOL has always been a wonderful treat. They serve a fixed plate but refills are waiting. It boils down to all you can eat and you will want to eat a lot. Enjoy your well presented meal in lovely surroundings, accompanied by excellent mixed drinks and rich desserts. They even have tablecloths on the tables. The last time I was there I enjoyed a fillet mignon with mushroom sauce, mashed potatoes, green beans, Yuka and refried beans. We had a good time.

Then, if you don't mind my tooting our own horn, Bayman Bay serves meals Island Buffet style. One night there might be whole baked grouper, baked potatoes, red beans and rice, fresh carrots and summer squash and some pork chops in red sauce for those who don't like seafood that much. Other times, garlic lobster, conch, shrimp, Chinese chow mien or Italian spaghetti. Every night brings a new surprise.

INVESTMENT CLIMATE

I actually came here to create a small sub-division called Villa ESCONDIDAS. That means hidden houses in U.S. talk. High on a hill right next to Bayman there is a twenty four lot sub-division offering underground utilities, self contained water systems, view lots and custom homes. Prices start at $ 24,900.00 for a building site and construction costs for an architecturally designed villa is set at $ 65.00 a square foot of living space. There is a lease-back program that helps the investor recover his entire investment in about three years.

POSADA also has land for sale as does Sandy Bay and Dina's Beach. The interesting thing is that Guanaja is about to be the chosen land as some investors feel happened to Roatan the past few years. Prices are still low and development is slow in coming due to lack of infrastructure. No roads, no electricity on the Bayman side of the island necessitates building in all those conveniences one at a time. The end result is slow growth but quality growth.

Other opportunities include raw land that has ocean frontage or inland sites with ocean views, existing houses, something for everyone is here waiting on Guanaja, that is Guanaja with a "G."

By HOWARD ROSENZWEIG

In today's, Only In Honduras Category we find the strange case of the the missing aircraft controller. It seems that an incoming Iberia flight from Miami to San Pedo Sula had to be diverted at the last minute to San Salvador due to the fact the the air traffic controller was "absent" from his post! It seems that some 30 people were left standing at the terminal gate awaiting friends and family due to arrive on the flight which never arrived. According to representatives of Iberia in San Pedro Sula, the cause of the problem was that the person in charge of the control tower did not show up for work that day. Like I said.......only in Honduras........

In other airport news.......The process of the privatization of the nations' four international airports (San Pedro Sula, La Ceiba, Roatan and Tegucigalpa) is well under way. Last week two more international concerns, one Swiss and one from the US met with privatization officials to learn more about the concession that will be granted by the government. By March the winning company will be announced. The winner will be granted a 20 year concession and have to undertake initial investments of $120 million to modernize the four airports and terminal buildings. It is hoped that the privatization of the airports will lead to an increase in the number of foreign carriers serving Honduras with the corresponding decrease in the cost of tickets which are at the present time very high.

Let's cruise news.......For the first time in many years two major cruise ships layed anchor at the same time at Puerto Cortez last week. The Carousel and the Van Gogh dropped off some 1,500 tourists for 12 hours of tours throughout Honduras. Amongst the choices for passengers were; Lake Yojoa, banana plantations, Copan Ruinas, Omoa and San Pedro Sula. In the last months, cruise tourism has seen a marked increase, especially on the island of Roatan, where weekly ship arrivals have now become commonplace.

In today's, Things Keep Gettin' Stranger and Stranger Category..........I offer you one 2,000 year old Mayan stone carving that New York City police dectives found lying in a Brooklyn garage a few weeks back. Investigators believe the piece, a 500lb stone depicting a jaguar clutching a man, was pilfered from a Guatemalan archeological site. Police discovered the piece in a packing crate after receiving an anonymous tip. Upon finding the artifact, Guatemalan consul, Fabiola Fuentes contacted the Guatemalan Ministry of Cultural affairs in order to try to trace the origins of the artifact. According to the consul, it is clear the piece is from Guatemala. According to dealers in artifacts, the theft and loting of Maya sites in Central America is a serious problem due to the fact that most sites are located in remote jungle locations where the government has no capacity to provide security and deter looters.

Here she comes Miss America (Latina).....press reports indicate that the group, Miss Honduras Universe, presided over by the Don of Honduran beauty pagents, the La Ceiba native Eduardo Zablah, is currently seeking to bring the Miss America Latina pagent to La Ceiba for next year. This year La Ceiba native Dania Prince took the crown at the competition held in Guatemala. She is the first Honduran to win the contest.

The event will host participants from 22 countries from South America, US and Europe and will take place during the 2000 Easter celebrations. According to organizers, it is hoped that the media exposure will help to promote Honduras as a tourist destination around the world. Rights to host the contest will cost some $30,000, not including accomodations, construction of set and the hosting of an international group of judges. If

I could have one vote to choose one of the judges it would probably be for Sofia Vergara, that voluptous Venezualan bombshell, who co hosts that silly tv show on Univision, Fuera de Serie. I for one would be first on line to buy a front row ticket for the contest, not so much to see the young, lanky contestants from the far corners of the globe, but rather to catch a glimpse and breathe the same air as Sofia............ah to sleep......per chance to dream............

According to the Ministry of Tourism, since 1996 an average of 50 companies have invested some Lps 1,500 million in tourism infrastructure. In April 1998 a new Tourism Incentive Law was enacted which gives qualifying tourism sector projects in the areas of recreation, arts and crafts, cultural projects, educational - cultural institutions and tourism. Qualifying projects receive a host of benefits such as exoneration of taxes, duty free import of material, supplies and vehicles amongst others.

According to the Ministry of Tourism: In 1996, 32 tourism projects generated 1,408 permanent jobs and added 1,012 new hotel rooms. In 1997, 50 new projects added 4,267 permanent jobs and created 1,899 new hotel rooms. In 1988, 48 projects created 3,104 new jobs and 1,335 rooms were erected. In 1999, 51 new projects were launched, creating 2,417 jobs and 2,473 rooms.

And finally.......my vote for the Non Event of the Millenium ' has to go without a doubt to the over hyped, over marketed, totally blown out of all proportion, Millenium 2000 Celebration. After all the fireworks were blown off and all the oversized bottles of French bubbly were quaffed and the local pharmacys' supply of aspirin and alka seltzer were depleted, what was left save a numbing buzz in ones' frontal lobe and the funny realization that all that hype was simply that......hype......and when it comes right down to it, really all we had was just another New Years....nada mas ni nada menos.

Howard Rosenzweig, a U.S. expatriate living in the Village of Copan Ruinas, is the owner of the Casa de Cafe Bed and Breakfast. He can be contacted at e-mail <casadecafe@mayanet.hn>.

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Honduras This Week receives requests for information on the current situation for tourists in Honduras. Since many small businesses were forced to close, either because of flood damage or the complete lack of tourists after the hurricane, people worry if places they have known are still open. Below is a list of restaurants Honduras This Week has previously favorably reviewed that are still open in Tegucigalpa.

La Pequena Cafeteria - located one block up from Parque Valle, going towards El Arbolito. They offer typical Honduran food for breakfast after 8 am and for lunch. With breakfast at L 25 including the coffee, this has the best prices I have seen. You can have a snack like tortillas and a drink for under L 10.

Panaderia Salmans - located on the Via Peatonal in Central Tegucigalpa and many other locations. They have sandwiches for L 8 that cost L 25 in restaurants, L 6 for a Coca-Cola. They do have tables so this remains an excellent bargain, with the only problem being that I always buy the dessert, too.

Pancho's - located on Paz Barahona St. across from Cafe Paraiso Mexican food or the Honduran versions of this. For L 25 you get an entree and a drink.

Super Donuts - at least three locations, Via Peatonal, opposite the Hotel La Ronda and across the street from the National Art Gallery on Parque La Merced. They offer Honduran style breakfasts and buffet style lunches, plus cakes, donuts, croissants, and empanadas. Who said you can not have chocolate cake or cheese cake for breakfasts? Last year pancakes were l 12, this year they are L 18. Breakfast L 20 - L 45.

Lei Hsien - located on the street behind the Cathedral, but opposite the parking lot of Hotel Prado. Chinese and Western style food. When I began going there 10 years ago, they asked me did I want Chop Suey for L 4 or L 6. Now they ask do I want Chop Suey for L 24 or L 30. L 50 - L 60 for lunch.

El Greco - located on Hipolito Matute Street, the one behind the Cathedral, but one block closer to La Leona, An elegant place to have tea or soft drinks and a snack while looking at pictures of old Tegucigalpa, L 20.

Cafe Paradiso - located on Paz Barahona St. near El Arbolito. Light food, tea, dessert and after September 18 they are serving lunch. They have Lencan ceramics and a bookstore, L 20 - L 40.

Al Natural - located in a garden patio behind the Cathedral. Tobacco Road Tavern has moved to this location, but the book store Shakespeare & Co. has moved to Centro Comercial La Ronda, 2nd Floor, above the Super Donuts near Hotel La Ronda and Immigration.

The fast food places that have sprung up in Tegucigalpa like mushrooms after a rain are all still here -- Wendy's, Burger King, McDonald's, Pizza Hut, Little Caesar's. Prices here continue to amaze me as compared to what local people earn. L 16 for a Coca Cola. In a country where L 30 a day was the salary last year and only now is breakfast plus coffee.

While the restaurants are half filled with Hondurans, obviously many people are no longer eating in restaurants. "Frente a malos tiempos, buenas manas" (In bad times, develop good habits) said one worker as he took out water (Lps. 2.00) to drink with his lunch, instead of buying soft drinks. A hotel worker said, "Pineapples help you lose weight" as she nibbled on her lunch of pineapple and watermelon (under Lps. 8.00 from fruit salesmen).

The crisis is bad enough that Standard Fruit, which owns the Cerveceria Hondurena and sells bear and Coca Cola, has reported in its annual report a drop in beverage sales since the hurricane. Of course, some people are disgusted that they could work all day

doing something like shining shoes or hulking watermelons and still not earn enough to be able to have a Coke at Burger King. Carjacking, purse snatching and robbery in houses are some of the ways these people try to earn enough to afford a decent meal.

 
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By JORGE FLORES MCCLELLAN

Just by sitting in Tegucigalpa listening to the strong winds blowing from the north, one can picture how it is at the moment in the Bay Islands, especially on the exposed Banda Norte or North Shore. It is said that if it is windy in Teguz and the advertising signs are falling here, than the palm trees and the black mangroves on Roatan are bending, stretching and cracking to gale force gusts. The famous and benign Trade Winds give way to polar mass tantrums that, of course, stop almost all trade on the Islas de la Bahia and many other places in the Caribbean.

Tonight, as I listen to the wires howl in the city, I travel back in time to the beginning of this decade, way back when electricity poles had just been set in Roatan. The electric trees were planted but the fruit of power had not yet been reaped. It was dark at night in West End. Life and the parties were quieter then, more down to earth if you will.

Jerry, a European guy, was spending a holiday with his Canadian wife Cindy and they were having a blast. I saw them almost every day snorkeling, sunbathing, hammocking and at the occasional barefoot, backpacker beach barbecue and drinking beer. There was more mochileros then and less herds of package tourists, so this particular couple could afford a nice bungalow right on the beach.

Things went pretty well and we had formed a tight group of friends just to hang loose. Everyday was exactly more of the same: beautiful ocean waters, cool coconut shade and relaxed evenings by the beach.

One night, while on my hammock on the verandah of the house where I was living in Mangrove Bight (the northern shore in Roatan), I heard something a bit out of the ordinary. The wind was speaking now in a low, monotonous drone. The singing of the leaves had turned into a growling tenor, punishing the vegetation for being so lush and the relatively few houses for being so wooden. It was one constant blast with the occasional swish of jetstream turbulence. I knew that the next day few fishermen would go out in dugout canoes and dories to fish in the midst of the whitecaps, the waves with the foaming fangs.

The next morning more coconuts than usual lay on the ground under the palms that wrestled still with the brisa. What made it all the more fascinating was the fact that the sky had no clouds whatsoever -- it was Honduran blue, turquoise, like in our flag.

The day was normal for Roatan: dazzling sun on the shiny vegetation, blue surf lapping on the pink sand and an unlimited view in every direction. The only difference were those white waters outside the protection of the barrier reef and the trees bent over with the invisible force.

That day, it was Jerry's turn to get the barracuda for the barbecue. Of course he was happy about his task. It meant he would have to go out and fish. His guide would be Sharky, a local dude who knew all the moves and had all the connections. Sharky would find the boat and fishing gear. All that Jerry had to do was hop in and help with the conversation. It was already afternoon and the bunch of friends expected them to accomplish their mission before the barbecue.

Cindy agreed to her husband going out onto the coral reef to find food, but she was not a happy camper about it. Two nights before, the bungalow next to theirs had been purposely set on fire by an Austrian man bent on exacting revenge on the owner of the place because of some problems with his homosexual friend and the price. It was one of those situations that sound crazy outside the island. Cindy had a "bad premonition" and wanted to leave but hey, not so fast, it’s Roatan.

Jerry had more to do with Till, the divemaster's old, dilapidated inflatable Zodiac. He had to bail water out of it and pump air into its shrinking belly because it had holes all over. The trip was to be short, so nobody paid too much mind to this. All we wanted was barracuda, so we sent them off.

At six at night, three hours after they had left, we all started to get very worried. Those of us who had a notion of the sea and the weather, especially in these waters, would not say it openly but just hoped for the best. At nine o'clock, everybody thought they were gone, most assuredly, forever.

The days went by in a sunny, slow-motion blur. All conversations were muffled, especially in front of Cindy. It seemed unreal that our friends could be in the depths of the sea or the honduras del mar. The ocean seemed angry and it wouldn't speak to us to give us any clue. Boaters and airplane pilots had seen no one and nothing, except for the whitecaps.

We mobilized and did what we could: Cindy rented an airplane to go look for her husband while I talked to Sharky's family to see what could be done. They said it was not the first time he had disappeared on the ocean so relax, and so on. I also called a friend who was an Alferez de Fragata in the Honduran Navy in Puerto Cortes, 200 miles away. He said they'd do what they could, which was nothing. I ranted and raved but it was to no avail.

On the second day, we got a call from Utila. The corpse of a white man had been found on a beach. This was terrible. We couldn't stand the news, especially because Cindy was all over West End talking to people, crying and pleading. Who would tell her about the call? Nobody.

We waited, which was wise in a cowardly way. About six hours later, they called again from Utila saying that the man was a tourist from that island who had been washed away by a big wave. It was a relief in a way, but only for us, of course.

But something else had happened that day. Some of us, like my friend Rodger, the young Hollywood screenwriter on a writing vacation, and Susan, the woman from Colorado who wanted to set up a zoo in Roatan, were all waiting in a daze for nothing or everything on the hammock deck at Fosters Restaurant. Nobody talked and the atmosphere was dense with a sense of dread that not even the strong wind could whisk away.

Suddenly, a small sailboat appeared on the western horizon and then bobbed its way in to the blue channel and into West End. The 25-footer dropped anchor a stones throw away and then Mark Hightower, a stocky gringo, jumped on his dingy. He rowed toward our deck and tied his raft. The young old man from the sea landed merrily and froze in his tracks. He sensed it.

"Hey, wazappening?" he asked. "Something wrong?" We all told him different angles of the story. Then he looked at the blue, windy sky, smiled and without a word, got on his dingy and left. Five minutes later he was back from his boat. He carried his charts and laid them on the table. He started firing questions while he pointed with his finger on the winds and currents chart for the Gulf of Honduras. After all we had gone through, we all thought he was just acting friendly and crazy, trying to figure out on a piece of paper where our friends were.

"There," Mark said. He pointed at the tiniest island or key near Belize. "If its not there, its here," he pointed at another ink speck. "Yeah, yeah, yeah," we said, "whatever," and then we all sat down again to wait.

The wind was still howling when the phone rang at Fosters. It was a Honduran naval officer calling to say they had just picked up our friends in Bird Key, the tiny island that Mark Hightower had pinpointed in the Caribbean.

Our reaction was mixed: joy and caution because we knew the information could be wrong. Cindy just got on a plane and went to Puerto Cortes. Later that night we got confirmation. The ordeal was over.

Susan, the woman from Colorado, cried openly with joy. Others drank to their heart's delight. My friend Rodger and I just sat down at Fosters with a fresco and a good meal. Our appetite was back.

When Jerry and Sharky got back the next day, it was eerie. After four days at sea, they were all burned by the sun. They were weak but when they saw us they laughed and hugged everybody and cried.

They told us the old outboard engine had sputtered out in West Bay. They were close enough to swim to safety but while they had tried to fix the motor, the wind had taken them too far out. They had tried to tie the motor to the fishing line to use it as an anchor, but the line had snapped. The waves were just too big. They had seen a dory pass by and they had waved in desperation. The men in the dory had just waved back. At night, the sea had flipped them over, leaving them lying on the flat bottom of the boat and without any supplies.

The next day they had eaten live flying fish that landed on their boat. They had fought insanely between themselves after 48 hours at sea and then, just curled up in exhaustion. On the fourth day, they had landed in a small key in Belize. Jerry said that when he looked for Sharky on the island, he had disappeared. Then, he looked up and saw him way up in a coconut tree, twisting the coconuts and dropping them off. He opened them with his bare teeth for the sweet milk.

After seeing that there was no one on that key, they decided to paddle with their arms to the next little island. There they found some people who gave them water and food and had called the authorities.

The story was told to Rodger and me in Anthony's Key Resort by Jerry himself, peeling skin off his mouth and all. The then manager of the hotel, Mandy Wagner, had given Cindy a bungalow for the meeting. Cindy's mom had come all the way from Canada to take care of the young couple and whisk them off the island as soon as possible.

Rodger and I, hearing this incredible story, knew that this could be a movie of the week. Rodger called his Hollywood lawyer dad and told him to fax a contract for the exclusive rights to the adventure. Jerry and Sharky both signed without thinking much about it.

Today, seven years later, everybody's gone except for Sharky, who lives and works in West End. The island has changed and the laid back ambiance is all but gone.

But some things remain the same and there are lessons to keep in mind: the heavy norte winds and careless fun in the ocean don't mix in our Caribbean. Also, don't count on the navy to go to your rescue too quickly. A rescue organization has not yet been created for the Gulf of Honduras, which is just too big and capricious to allow for an easy way out.

And finally, when "Mark, the Angel," as we started calling him, tells you something, listen carefully and hope for the best to happen.

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By WENDY GRIFFIN

If you look at a map of Honduran protected areas or parks, Olancho stands out for the richness of its natural beauty. The southern part of the Rio Platano Biosphere extends to the Pech area of Culmi in Olancho. The Sierra de Agalta park extends most of the way from Catacamas to Culmi on one side and San Esteban on the other. La Muralla National Park near La Union is one of the best places to see quetzales.

Yet foreigners who go to Juticalpa's better hotels, like Hotel Honduras and Apart-Hotel La Muralla, are either Peace Corps volunteers or church groups doing aid projects. For years the government has turned a blind eye to drug and gun smugglers, endangered animal smugglers, marijuana growers, rural theft, illegal timber cutters, and illegal settlers in protected areas. The result is that some places in protected areas are far too dangerous to visit. Even former Minister of Education Jaime Guzman Martinez, on the run from the law for over four years, admitted he hid out in Olancho.

The road connecting Tegucigalpa to Juticalpa, the departmental capital, was thought to be good. During the day, one can enjoy the colonial church, the market and the typical restaurant "El Nuevo Rancho." People say they are home by 6 p.m. and gang graffiti like "MS" on the walls of buildings gives an idea why.

Ecological problems still face Olanchos protected areas, such as this lagoon drying up from the over cutting of wood in its area.

There is beautiful scenery from Juticalpa to Catacamas as you share the road with ox carts and cattle going to pasture. Catacamas has a modest colonial church. Police on the bus say vehicles traveling on this route have not been attacked by delinquents.

North of Catacamas is Culmi, the gateway to the Rio Platano Biosphere. A team of explorers looking for the White City had to turn back because of attacks by bandidos. According to a tour operator, the mayor of Culmi has charged Lps. 3,000 for tourists travelling by river toward the Tawahka or Rio Platano Biosphere, so you do not need to wait for bandidos.

Outside of Catacamas are the Talgua Caves, an archaeological site dating to 1000 B.C. There used to be a visitor's center there, but now it is closed and locked. The Nahuatl Indians who live there believe the center and the rights to the caves have been sold to gringos.

Turning off the Tegucigalpa-Juticalpa highway at Limonales for the highway to Saba, Colon, one might reach La Muralla Park. This is the highway known locally as the Corridor of Death.

Geovani Mondragon says during his bus ride past La Union there were only eight passengers on the bus. One of the bus owners came to talk to him. "See how nervous the bus driver is. This is near where they attacked this bus last week. They chopped a pine tree down and had it lying across the highway. They were robbing one bus when another came by. The second bus tried to go through without stopping. The robbers opened fire on the bus. In all 11 people died."

"Look up there," the man said. "See the man on the porch. That is the man who shot the driver." Mondragon looked up to see a man peering off his porch at the bus. They used to assault buses two or three times a month. The bad road between Mamey and Saba is given as the reason Cotraibal no longer covers this route, but nervous drivers and passengers seem to be the main reason. "Now I always go the long way to Tegucigalpa through La Ceiba," said Mondragon.

The government did a security operation, arrested about 70 people, but then most of them were released due to lack of evidence. A policeman was recently killed trying to stop a carjacking on this road. The thieves used bullet proof vests and automatic weapons, which gives the idea that these thieves are not starving campesinos.

The Juticalpa to Tocoa and the Juticalpa to Trujillo buses go up a different road past Gualaco and San Esteban. Gualaco is where the visitor's center for the Sierra de Agalta National Park is located. Above Gualaco and San Esteban is the Pech Cultural Center at El Carbon. However, it is not safe here either due to a gang that assaults delivery trucks near San Esteban on a regular basis.

The drinking water company and Doral vegetable shortening company will go as far as Gualaco and turn around and go back to Juticalpa out of fear of being attacked near San Esteban. A resident of Gualaco told how her uncle and an assistant had been robbed of Lps. 8,000 while out buying beans and corn for their store. They got away with their lives only by pleading they were poor working people with young children who depended on them.

Four people died in an ambush recently along this road. The man next to me on the bus was coming back from taking care of his brother who was awaiting an operation for a bullet lodged in his brain. "The people who attacked him were tipo mara (gang members)."

From Juticalpa, travellers can take a bus to the Patuca River and then a motor boat up to the Tawahka area. When the news media asked about assaults in the area after a bridge fell down in the recent rains, the bus drivers replied, "Oh, we have already gotten used to them."

Olancho has much beautiful scenery to offer potential tourists -- waterfalls, misty mountains, exotic birds, native cultures. A previous major drawback, that there were no decent hotels, has been resolved at least in Juticalpa. But until something is done about the lack of personal security in the area, Olancho will continue to attract people who live by the law of the gun rather than tourists. 

By JORGE FLORES McCLELLAN

TEGUCIGALPA -- One of the biggest hotel chains in the world, Inter-Continental Hotels and Resorts, opened its second Camino Real in Honduras on December 15 after a record breaking 12 months of construction.

The ceremony was attended by one thousand guests which including Vicar Antonio Quetglas who blessed the new establishment. The hotel, according to its owners, has a five star rating and is "intelligent," meaning that all of its systems ranging from lighting and air conditioning to the fire alarms, are computer controlled to insure maximum comfort and safety.

Other innovations include workstations in the rooms, complete with ergonomic chairs. This is the result of a poll taken from 1,600 regular business travelers "whose needs change as fast as technology." This poll also was decisive in many other details like decorations and regular hotel services for travellers "who spend more time inside their rooms."

Ricardo Poma, President of Grupo Real, operator and proprietor of the hotel thanked President Flores and Tourism Minister, Norman García for their attendance. "It pleases us to fulfil our promise to this dynamic city, which was to create a development area which produces direct and indirect jobs for thousands of people," he said. "Our purpose is to promote the commercial and tourist activity of this area."

The hotel is located in the southwestern part of the city which is considered to be the new "downtown" with most government offices, banks, commercial and entertainment centers.

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By HOWARD ROSENZWEIG

Hats off to our tourism powerhouse neighbor to the south, 1999 was a very good year. Tourism in Costa Rica saw it's best year yet, generating almost $971 million in 1999, a 10% increase over last year.

According to Costa Rican Tourism officials, over 1 million tourists will have visited the country by the close of 1999. In 1998 tourism generated US$884 million with the arrival of some 942,000 tourists. Just goes to show what a little marketing, promotion, and private sector and government cooperation can achieve.

...and more good news from our tourism powerhouse to the south. The Spanish Barcelo Hotel Group recently inaugurated its seventh hotel in Costa Rica. The new, all inclusive hotel called Playa Langosta Resort and Casino is a four star, 723 room property, located in the province of Guanacaste, 233km Northeast of the capital San Jose. When will Honduras' Caribbean Coast see a four star, professionally run resort? To tell you the truth I haven't the slightest idea......

but if I were you I wouldn't run out anytime soon and buy that new Calvin Klein beachwear collection you've been drooling over.

In todays', it's happened again category....a contingent of officials from the Honduran Ministry of Culture, the National Institute of Anthropology and History, Interpol Honduras and the Attorney Generals' Office recently ventured of to Mexico City to pursue the case of the stolen Copan artifacts. If you remember the pieces were found missing after an exhibition of Mayan pieces from all over the Mundo Maya was being set up in a Mexico City museum after being shipped from Itlay where the exhibition was previously on display. This is the second major loss of Copan artifacts, about a year ago a major royal tomb which was being excavated at the Copan Ruins site was sacked by looters. Security has since been stepped up at the ruins site in order to deter any future incidents.

US Secretary of Transport Rodney Slater was in Honduras recently bearing a few Christmas presents for Honduras. The Secretary brought with him a promise to set up a GPS system in Puerto Cortez to help with maritime navigation as well as an ILS navigation system which will assist pilot navigation at the Roatan airport.

The new Holiday Inn San Pedro Sula is now open. They can be reached at holiday-inn-sps@holiday-inn-sps.com, tel 550-8080, fax 550-5353. It's San Pedro's newest luxury class hotel and the newest downtown landmark.

Copan Ruins new Central Park is beginning to take shape as the work moves into it's final stages. Slated to be ready for the new millenium, the project will take a bit longer than projected. It is estimated that the work will be fully completed by February or March. Comments from around town are generally positive and for the most part the park is shaping up nicely. Look for a complete review of the new park in this column upon completion of the project.

A final note to all readers of Copan Update in 1999. Although this year has been a difficult one for Honduran tourism......there's only one way to go from here and that's up! All of us who are somehow connected to Honduran tourism either in government or the private sector need to redouble our efforts to make tourism Job #1. Spread the word, get on the web, tell a friend, recommend a good hotel or a great restaurant you know, pick up some trash at your destination, be extra friendly and go that extra mile for visitors, tip your waiter or waitress...get the word out..... Remember e=mc2?

Well I propose to modify that to: H = AGV Honduras = A Great Vacation....it's that simple.....and that complicated. Tourism can become the #1 source of foreign income in Honduras in short order.........the new millenium is rapidly approaching like a speeding SUV.....will 2000- 2001-2002 be the golden years of Honduran tourism...this remains to be seen...I know I'll be along for the ride. Have a great holiday!

Howard Rosenzweig, a U.S. expatriate living in the Village of Copan Ruinas, is the owner of the Casa de Cafe Bed and Breakfast. He can be contacted at e-mail <casadecafe@mayanet.hn>.

 
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