Saturday, January 25,  1997 Online Edition 39


Travel

A PERSPECTIVE ON ECOTOURISM:

Communities explore the Greening of Tourism

By RON MADER

Special to Honduras This Week

Ecotourism is a shotgun marriage between tourism and conservation, with both parties somewhat interested and at the same time "inconvenienced" by the other.

Perhaps it is precisely the hybrid origin of environmental tourism that brands it as something that cannot be trusted by one side or the other. Conservationists shudder when tourism leaders brand amusement parks as ecotourism. Likewise, when environmentalists devise complicated eco trips, and tour operators cannot book a reservation, it is perceived as a utopian whimsy.

In October I was invited to give a presentation on information distribution for the International Colloquium on Protected Areas and Ecotourism in Mexico and Central America. The biggest obstacle I noted is that people will not go to parks if they don't know they exist. And they won't get to the parks, if they don't have directions.

If this sounds too simplistic, note that the best source I have found for environmental tourism destinations is not the Ministry of Tourism, but simple, good word of mouth and scientific journals. Green resorts and tourism providers are also using the Internet, as a cost effective means to attract visitors.

Ecotourism generally does not make enough money for expensive advertisements or coverage in the leading travel magazines. Community-based ecotourism projects rarely have the budget for advertisements or for commissions to travel operators who might book a trip.

INFO PLEASE

In Playa del Carmen, for example, there were plenty of kiosks and information stands on the "eco-archaeology nature's sacred paradise" XCARET. According to sources, this park receives 600,000 visitors a year -- and no wonder, it has the billboards, the magazine ads, the kiosks and the connections with travel operators.

But looking for information on ejido-controlled Cenote Crystal? Tres Garantias? El Eden scientific research station? Nada. Your best source for information is the virtual world.

Honduras jumps to the top of the list. Here you'll find information on Cusuco, La Muralla and other precious gems.

The bright spot is that environmentalists, both the governmental and non-governmental variety (a division which is often blurred in both Honduras and the United States) are exploring ecotourism. They see this niche as a valuable source of financing for the conservation of protected areas. And it could be -- though tourism can also be fickle, especially if only the international market is promoted.

At the international colloquium several important points were made and echoed by participants: 1) conservation should not have to prove itself worthwhile solely via economic criteria, 2) environmental tourism should not be the exclusive domain of international visitors, and 3) the need for management plans and carrying capacity studies is greater now than ever.

Practical ecotourism needs a greater boost from both tourism and environmental leaders. It is not enough to offer training and build lodges -- it is now high time to promote the type of ecotourism that actually protects the environment and empowers local communities.

Ron Mader is the co-author of the upcoming book, Honduras: A Natural Destination. He also publishes El Planeta Platica: Eco Travels in Latin America (http://www.planeta.com ).

Paya Bay is a charming, secluded resort of enchanting natural beauty

Honduras This Week In Pictures

View Honduras through the camera of Honduras This Week photographer Eric Schwimmer.

Roatan: La Isla Bonita

By LARRY LEE

PUNTA GORDA, Roatan -- It will be big -- the grandest bash this island has seen -- with more people touching shore since 1797.

That was when the British forced the revolting black Caribs, or Garifunas, off their island of St. Vincent. Those who survived the sea journey landed at Punta Gorda, a beautiful spot at the base of the tall mountain that forms Roatan's eastern spine.

April 12 will be the big bicentennial celebration, with Garifunas from around the world coming home to remember their ancestors. Even South African President Nelson Mandela is invited, says Ben Gonzales, who owns a restaurant, hotel and dive school in Roatan's only remaining Garifuna village.

Faced by hostility from those already on Roatan, the rest of the Garifunas left long ago and now populate the Caribbean shore of Honduras. Some also live on the coasts of Guatemala, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Belize, but the biggest Garifuna community can be found in New York City, where many go to work so they can send home precious dollars.

Roatan is one of Honduras' Bay Islands, just 50 kilometers north of the mainland but a world apart in language, pace of life and safety. The Bay Islands are becoming known around the world as a diving and snorkeling destination. Just under the turquoise waters lies the tip of Earth's second-longest barrier reef.

The heaviest tourist season begins around Thanksgiving. On Saturdays visitors can fly directly from Houston. Big resorts are waiting with dive packages that include world-class cuisine and extraordinarily comfortable rooms for one price.

For those who prefer island discovery, Roatan is a treasure trove. Here Honduras, the third-poorest country in the Americas, puts on its best show with islanders, Garifunas, Americans and Europeans mixing and speaking mainly English on the narrow 52-kilometer-long island that is only 4 kilometers wide at its thickest point.

From end to end, Roatan is unique, offering visitors of all price ranges an unforgettable vacation. Those landing by air or ferry at the Bay Islands' capital, Coxen Hole, get a grimy but vivacious welcome. From there they may find private relaxation and unmatched sunsets at West End; luxurious resort living at Fantasy Island; daily dolphin shows at Anthony's Key Resort, a popular Sandy Bay divers paradise; and traditional Garifuna dances at historic Punta Gorda.

Roatan and the two other main Bay Islands -- Guanaja and Utila -- are Honduras' most-visited attraction. The government has taken steps in recent years to ensure that the islands' environment is protected. The nation has created a marine park on Roatan's western side that some predict will soon be extended to include all of the Bay Islands.

It's also much safer than the mainland, where heavily armed police often guard banks and other businesses. In Coxen Hole, the one big supermarket has a security guard with a pistol. Heavy weapons are not to be seen, and the thievery that is so common in the rest of Central America isn't a problem on this shard-shaped stip of land.

Perhaps the most interesting of the places to stay here is at the newest dive resort, the Inn of Last Resort at Gibson Bight, between West End and Sandy Bay.

Americans Donna and Andy Arcaya gave up an exciting yet demanding life of international investigation to invest in a top-of-the-line resort. When they first started looking around three years ago, they weren't sure what country they would build in but had three requirements: an international airport, English as the main local language and something to do besides sit on a beach. Roatan fills all of those, says Donna Arcaya.

The Inn of Last Resort, where 150 ceiling fans keep the air moving, took two years to build and has been open a year now. All 30 rooms, which surround a courtyard, are alike: two twin beds and one double with both air conditioning and ceiling fans to satisfy different tastes. As in most of Roatan's resorts, these rooms have a wood decor, giving them a rustic yet tastefully comfortable look.

Tap water at the Inn of Last Resort is safe for drinking, a generator keeps the lights on during Honduras' frequent outages, and the sewage is treated so there is no pollution.

The restaurant serves international cuisine with allowances for people with special dietary needs like vegetarians in a land where finding a meatless meal isn't usually easy.

The staff is trained in customer service, not always a given in Latin America. That includes taking chicken soup to an ill guest's room, says Arcaya.

"We're small, live here and run it ourselves, and we give people a lot of individual attention," she says.

The bar includes a collection of books for borrowing, and the couple has two monkeys that wind up featured in most visitors' photo collections.

Everything is included in the dive package -- room, meals and diving (three a day plus one night dive) -- for a variety of rates. Single-occupancy divers pay $995 a week, for example; double-occupancy dive packages run $695 a person.

For those who don't fly in from Houston on Saturdays, the Arcayas offer to have someone meet the visitors at the San Pedro Sula airport, on the Honduran mainland, match them up with their luggage and get them through customs and on the next plane to Roatan for just $10 a person, not including the ticket.

The Inn of Last Resort has a web site, www.dive.com/innlast.html, or the owners can be reached by e-mail at lastresort@globalnet.hn.

For less hi-tech vacationers, the phone is (504) 45-1838 and fax 45-1848. U.S. callers may get information and make reservations by dialing (305) 893-2436 or 1 (800) 374-8181.

Similar solitude can be found at Half Moon Bay Cabins, a popular West End location that rarely has spare rooms, so reservations are recommended.

"This is where everyone comes to watch the sun set," says the manager, Capt. Terry Clymire, the Bay Islands' senior dive instructor. "Even though it's on West End, it's isolated."

The rooms at Half Moon Bay, named for the cove it sits on, are similar to those at the Inn of Last Resort. The owners also pride themselves on the restaurant, which attracts locals as well as travelers because one of the owners has a fishing fleet that keeps the cooks supplied with fresh seafood.

Perhaps the best part of Half Moon Bay Cabins, though, is its location in West End. With its stunning sunsets and boisterous nightlife, West End is the most popular tourist destination on Roatan.

Half Moon Bay Cabins cost around $60 a night for air conditioning or $50 without. Around the bay on West End, backpackers can find much cheaper bargain-rate hotels. To make reservations for Half Moon Bay Cabins call (813) 935-1700 or fax (813) 933-1977. The toll-free line is 1 (800) 789-9970.

A definite must for all visitors to West End are the cheap banana pancakes at Rudy's that are hot, delicious and filling.

A few miles east of West End sits Anthony's Key Resort, with possibly the most popular of the dive schools. Last Thanksgiving, Anthony's Key was visited by an entourage that included John Kennedy Jr.

Most interesting are the dolphins, who give a show every day at feeding time -- 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 and 4:30 p.m. -- and the museum ($4 admission) that tells the Bay Islands' history and displays Mayan artifacts found here. A botanical garden is across the highway from Anthony's Key.

Harder to get to, but definitely worth the trip, is Punta Gorda. Here the Garifunas sell their amazing coconut bread along with other traditional foods.

Ben's Restaurant and Dive Shop is the center of the action for visitors. He has rooms for up to eight people (unless they double up) that are similar to others in Roatan minus air conditioning, which on the edge of the ocean isn't needed.

"Normally people come here for the culture," says Gonzales, who speaks fluent Spanish and English. His restaurant features Garifuna dances every Saturday night.

He often takes his dive students to the smaller island of Barbareta off Roatan's eastern point for what he calls "virgin, unspoiled diving." The cost for six days of diving and seven nights lodging and meals: $500 a person, along with a welcome drink and airport pickup, common amenities on Roatan. His voice/fax line is (504) 45-1916.

Taca, the Salvadoran airline, flies Saturdays direct to Roatan from Houston. Otherwise flights must be routed through San Pedro Sula or Tegucigalpa, although the latter is not recommended because of an extremely short and hair-raising runway.

Land and water travelers should make their way to La Ceiba on Honduras' northern coast. Safeway Tropical, (504) 45-1795, runs large-capacity air-conditioned boats with movies daily from La Ceiba to Roatan and sometimes to the smaller, less-developed island of Utila.

The two-hour Roatan trip costs about $10 each way. Catch the morning ship if possible. The afternoon sea is so rough that at the outset, the crew passes out plastic bags to travelers.

Some of the images on this column will be featured in our upcomming Honduras Interactive CD-ROM.

For those who prefer island discovery, Roatan is a treasure trove.

Roatan Coastline (Photo by Linda Foss Marrder)

Perhaps the most interesting of the places to stay here is at the newest dive resort, the Inn of Last Resort at Gibson Bight, between West End and Sandy Bay.

Inn of Last Resort (Photo by Linda Foss Marrder)

The owners also pride themselves on the restaurant, which attracts locals as well as travelers because one of the owners has a fishing fleet that keeps the cooks supplied with fresh seafood.

Half Moon Bay Cabins Restaurant (Photo by Linda Foss Marrder)

Last Thanksgiving, Anthony's Key was visited by an entourage that included John Kennedy Jr.

Sunset at Anthony's Key Resort (Photo by Stanley Marrder)

Paya Bay is a charming, secluded resort of enchanting natural beauty located on the island of Roatan. Come enjoy our isolated beaches, virgin reefs, and exhuberant rainforest...

Tegucigalpa walking tours and mountain side trips 

By RAYMOND GUTT

Tegucigalpa is an ancient colonial mining town that was converted into the capital city of Honduras in 1880. It was originally founded in 1578 as a silver mining community in the mountainous region of south central Honduras. The city's tongue twisting name was derived from the local Indian dialect and means "mountain of silver".

In Tegucigalpa you will find the charm of an old Spanish colonial town. The original colonial design for a town consisted of a large, centrally located park that was surrounded by narrow streets and avenues and laid out in a nice orderly fashion. The mountainous terrain made this type of neat, orderly layout impossible for Tegucigalpa. Instead, you will find a large central park surrounded by the many narrow twisting and winding streets that modern motorists hate.

The haphazard layout of narrow streets winding through the city causes many problems in getting around. Fortunately, taxis are readily available at modest prices.

ARCHITECTURE

For those who are interested on colonial architecture, sightseeing is simple. To really relax and get into the mood, you can spend hours sitting in Parque Central (Central Park) and talking to the locals. Central Park is the starting point for a walking tour to see the fine examples of colonial churches and museums in Tegucigalpa.

The Central Cathedral is located just in front of Central Park. It was built between 1765 and 1782 and features an exquisite gold baroque altar. Extensive reconstruction and rehabilitation work was completed two years ago, restoring this magnificent building to its original glory.

The Iglesia de San Francisco de la Merced, built in 1592, is the oldest church in the city. The buildings surrounding the church were once the convent of the Mercedian Monastery. The complex is now known as Plaza la Merced. These historic buildings once served as the headquarters of the Armed Forces and later were the home of the National University of Honduras. Today they house the Museum of the Honduran Man. The church is located one block south of Central Park and is an excellent example of colonial architecture.

Another interesting church is Iglesia Los Dolores, which was built in 1732. It is located four blocks north west of Central Park. As you walk to this church, you will pass through an open -air market to help fill your time.

Nuestra Senora de Suyapa is another church showing the exquisite colonial style of architecture. In colonial times, Suyapa was a small neighboring town, but now it is part of Tegucigalpa. Feb. 2 marks the carnival in honor of the Virgin Suyapa. The Suyapa Basilica is located near the National Autonomous University of Honduras, but can be seen from many vantage points around the city.

NATIONAL MUSEUM

You can also visit the National Museum, which is located in the old Presidential Palace, just one block west of Plaza la Merced. The museum features a large collection of ancient Mayan artifacts as well as pre-Columbian and contemporary items. Music lovers would want to visit the National Symphony Orchestra while theater lovers will head for the Manuel Bonilla National Theater to see its French-inspired design.

Concordia Park is very close to the downtown area and features many Mayan artifacts and replicas. The Mayans were an advanced civilization that occupied the area from southern Mexico to the western part of Honduras, primarily in the city of Copan Ruinas. For those unable to visit the Mayan ruins in Copan, Concordia Park provides an opportunity to see a miniaturized version of these exotic temples.

La Leona Park and the United Nations Park offer excellent views of the city. Walking up the winding streets to either of these parks is difficult and physically exhausting. Fortunately, there are many taxis available.

FOOD AND FUN

Shopping enthusiasts will end up on Boulevard Morazan. Located within walking distance of the luxurious Hotel Honduras Maya, you will find the best selection of first class stores, restaurants and bars. For the best in tipica food, go to the El Patio restaurant located on this strip. You will also find most fast food restaurants located in this area or close to Central Park.

The most popular day trips from Tegucigalpa are to the old Spanish mining towns of Santa Lucia and Valle de Angeles, as well as La Tigra National Park.

In Valle de Angeles, about a half-hour drive north east of Tegucigalpa, the colonial style is prevalent. Central Park is the center of this quaint town. You will find many craftsmen making wooden and leather goods as well as colonial-style paintings and traditional souvenirs. Your best selection of souvenirs will be found in the stores surrounding the downtown area. You will also find many quaint restaurants and sidewalk cafes offering traditional foods such as beans, rice tortillas and grilled beef.

Santa Lucia is located about 10 minutes before Valle de Angeles on the road leading from Tegucigalpa. During colonial times, both towns were important for silver mining. Today, ornamental plants are the major source of income and beauty of this town. Santa Lucia is located on a fertile plan high up in the mountains, with cooler temperatures and moderates rainfall which permits the thriving of many beautiful plants.

La Tigra National Park is a cloud forest situated 7,500 ft. above sea level. It was the first national park in Honduras and serves as the origin of the majority of the drinking water in Tegucigalpa. It is also home to the quetzal, considered by many to be the world's most beautiful bird. You will also find a large variety of flowers, especially ferns and orchids. At this high altitude, the climate is much cooler and damper. You are up in the clouds. You will find a sweater a necessity even though it is 90°F in Tegucigalpa, which is less than 20 miles away.

A trip to Tegucigalpa would no be the complete without spending two or three days to visit Valle de Angeles, Santa Lucia and La Tigra.

NO MORE WORKERS

After the nations of Central America declared their independence in 1821, mine owners no longer had access to slaves or to forced Indian labor. The Minerales of Barahona, Minas de Plomo and Villanueva had no working mines by 1850. Workers let the San Juancito and El Corpus mines fill up with water while mines of iron, antimony, zinc and cinnabar closed down across Honduras. According to historical reports, the owners of only the richest mines paid Black workers to keep mining. This allowed the owners to keep their land titles.

Reforms implemented by the Liberal government in the 1880s tried to revive Honduras' mines through direct foreign investment. Between 1883 and 1924, the Honduran government granted 283 mining concessions. However, most of them were for silver mining and when in 1890 the bottom fell out of the silver market, most countries changed from a silver to a gold standard for their currency.

TOO MUCH AT ONCE

The government was also trying to expand the banana, coffee and rubber industries at the same time, which caused an overall labor shortage.

Taking advantage of the poor market and shortage of workers, the Rosario New York and Honduras Mining Company in San Juancito gained control of 87 percent of the nation's metal exports by 1900.

Because most of Honduras' mines were closed for reasons other than the exhaustion of their ore, it is likely that they could still be economically productive today. But before allowing modern mining companies to come in with the latest mining technologies, many of which are harmful to the environment, Hondurans want to ensure that the ecology will be adequately protected.

Another obstacle facing the revival of the Honduran mining industry is the fact that despite 500 years of mining history, very few Hondurans today are trained in mining. This leaves the country dependent not only on foreign investment, but also on foreign experts to run the mines.

Ferry service could begin this month

Ferry service between Port Isabel, Texas and Puerto Cortés, Honduras could begin as early as Jan. 15, according to an HTW source who spoke with International Decision Support, Inc. The source added that the ferry arrived at the Texas port Dec. 28 and is currently being inspected and refitted prior to beginning planned weekly service.

In other news, company executives recently meet with Honduran port and customs officials in Puerto Cortés to discuss details of the service and "to investigate other business contacts." A company official said that, "In regard to the schedules and pricing, we are working with our vendors and clients as fast as we can to resolve the few remaining issues and hope to have good news in the immediate future."

For more information on the planned ferry service, contact International Decision Support, Inc. at (210) 544-4526 or e-mail: fdrew@ids.vt.com

The decline of the Honduran mining industry 

By WENDY GRIFFIN

Now that Honduras has seen renewed interest in reviving its mines in Minas de Oro and elsewhere, the question has been raised as to why the country's mines closed in the first place and whether or not the time has come to consider reopening them.

People have been mining gold in Honduras since pre-Colombian days. The explorer Hernán Cortés reported that he had heard of the gold fields of Olancho long before he came to Honduras. Olancho's Mancho copper mines may also have been well known. Christopher Columbus saw crucibles for melting metals on a stop in the Bay Islands. Copper bells have been found in archaeological ruins.

In the colonial period, the mines of Honduras were so productive the King of Spain sent a statue of Christ to the people of Santa Lucía, a small village just outside of Tegucigalpa, to thank them for all the gold and silver they mined for him.

We will never know exactly how much gold and silver was mined in Honduras. Letters written by Spanish officials at the time are full of complaints that precious metals were being smuggled to the North Coast to be sold to English merchants, thus avoiding a 20 percent tax on gold and silver.

A NATIONAL INDUSTRY

During the mining heyday, there were 10 different mining district around Tegucigalpa. Known as Minerales, these were Barahona, Minas de Plata, Minas de Oro, Guasucarán, Mineral de Plomo, Villanueva, Santa Lucía, Yuscarán, Cedros, San Antonio, and San Juan de Cantaranas. Each Mineral included several different mining towns. The Mineral of Cantaranas, for example, included the villages of San Juancito, Cantaranas, Talanga, Guaymaca and Moroceli.

Tegucigalpa was not the only mining area. One of Honduras' largest gold mines was in El Corpus, Choluteca. Meanwhile, the department of Olancho was famous for its gold panning and the area around Erandique, Lempira had about 100 opal mines.

During the colonial period, these mines were worked with a variety of labor systems, including black slave labor, and forced labor by Indians held at gunpoint. Later, most of the labor was provided by Ladinos -- free Blacks and people of mixed races.

CENTERS OF DISEASE

The conditions in the mines were horrible. European mines at the time were using pumps to take out water and bring in fresh air. Not Honduran mines. The miners were forced to work ankle-deep in water, which was taken out by hand in leather sacks up rickety wooden ladders by workers. No extra ventilation was provided. These are apt conditions for developing the painful matamoro fungus, tuberculosis and other diseases.

It is not surprising that Honduran mines were constantly centers of labor unrest. The first strike took place before 1535, leaving the Spanish of Trujillo not only without gold, but even without salt.