TRAVEL & TOURISM

Never fear: ear problems that prevent diving can be solved

By CAPTAIN TERRY CLYMIRE

ROATAN -- All divers know that one of the most important things that we must do is relax totally. This is taught to us on the first day of every basic dive or scuba certification class.

Relaxation come easier for some than for others. This is a new, total unnatural experience that we are about to engage in and without relaxing totally and with complete abandonment, we will not enjoy this aquatic encounter to it's fullest.

Diving is not for everyone. Some simply have no interest at all and others, for some medical reason, do not have the physical makeup to withstand the pressures and depth.

One of the most common problems facing divers are ear problems. Ears can be easily injured and damaged beyond our body's ability to repair them. Scuba diving is responsible for thousands of minor and major inner and outer ear ailments. Most, if not all, of these problems can be prevented by practicing equalization by either the Valsalva Maneuver (blocking and blowing into the ears.), swallowing and/or wiggling the jaw when one first gets up in the morning. Long before you think about that first dive, practice. It educates and relaxes the muscles in the ears so that they can perform their needed task. Again, equalize on the beach or boat before entering the water, then again once on the surface. The time to find there may be difficulties is not at the start of a decent.

Equally important is a good maintenance program for the ears. Clean them and keep them dry. Studies by the University of Chicago on over-the-counter ear remedies found that they were no more and in many cases not as effective as a plain mixture of 60 percent alcohol and 40 percent white table vinegar. You can make a gallon for about $1.00. This works well not only for divers, but swimmers, waterskiers or anyone spending time in or around the water. Proper ear hygiene is a must whether you are in salt water, fresh water or especially chlorine treated swimming pools.

But what about those of you who have inherent ear problems? These may prevent you from ever becoming a scuba diver. These problems usually start at birth and as studies by the AMA have shown, over medication by doctors in one's youth leads to continued ear problems, usually lasting throughout one's adult life as a result of the destruction of the body's natural immune system to fight off simple ear or any other infections diseases that attack the body. Dr. Andrew Weil, M.D. of the University of Arizona calls this "the elimination of spontaneous healing". (coninues in right column)

Dr. Robert Fulton, who has been practicing osteopathic medicine for fifty years, believes that most ear problems originate at birth and unless properly treated will recur throughout life. He believes, and studies at Michigan State University confirm, recurring infections in the middle ear, otitis media, is the bread and butter from which most pediatricians build their practices. It is so common that most people think it is just a part of growing up. Western medicine, using conventional treatment of decongestants and antibiotics and the surgical insertion of tubes through the eardrums to equalize pressure, the use of drugs on the patient will end or mark the frequency of occupance, but sooner or later the episodes of infection will reoccur as a matter of course.

Robert Fulton has almost a 100 percent success rate at ending this vicious cycle in small children and infants. It usually involves just one treatment and concentrating on "freeing up the sacrum".

"I just beat the heck out their tailbones", he states bluntly. Through his many years of medical practice he found that the sacral end of the craniosacral system was often the one part that was locked up in children. Usually as the result of extreme trauma suffered during birth. This is his own explanation:

San Fernando de Omoa the best kept relic of colonial days

"A row of canons rest on the grass interior of Fort San Fernando de Omoa, an 18th century colonial fortress located west of Puerto Cortés. (Photo by Masja Zwart)"

By MASJA ZWART
Special to Honduras This Week

OMOA -- Puerto Cortes used to be one of Honduras' leading beach towns. Every weekend beachgoers flocked to the waterfront in the center of town. The rapid growth of the harbor in the '70s, however, drove most tourists further south. Puerto Cortes is still worth a visit though, if only to see the giant ocean steamers towering over town. But the main attraction of Puerto Cortes is without a doubt the Spanish fort called San Fernando de Omoa.

Over two centuries old, it is Honduras' largest colonial fort, conserved just as it was when English, French and Dutch buccaneers roamed the Caribbean looking for Spanish gold. Two fortresses, one in Trujillo and one in Omoa, were all the Spanish had to protect Honduras from pirates and, more notably, the English. In the 1700s Spain controlled nearly all of the Americas south of what is today the United States. The Spanish had an absolute monopoly over trade going to or from its colonies. Because they could not, however, provide all of the manufactured goods the colonies needed an extensive system of contraband developed.

The British, who held firm bases in Belize and Roatan, posed a constant threat to the Spanish possessions in Central America. To keep them at bay, the Spanish established a chain of fortresses along the coast. Many of them, like the one in Trujillo, fell victim to enemy canons, fires and the humid, tropical climate. San Fernando de Omoa is one of the best conserved Spanish fortresses of Central America. Its black walls rise up high above the swamps and mangroves. The sea, which used to come up to the walls during a storm, has retreated a bit, leaving lush green land to surround the imposing structure.

UNUSUAL STRUCTURE

The fort has three baluartes -- protruding structures with towers -- used in its defense. When the fortress was designed in 1754, all existing forts had at least four baluartes constructed at the four corners. But Spain was short of money and King Fernando VI (1746-1759) approved the cheaper construction with only three. This left Fort San Fernando with its pleasant, triangular shape. From the northern tower you look out over a dilapidated graveyard, a withered wall from a previous Spanish stronghold, and in the distance you can see the shining sea, behind the mangrove trees.

The pirate Luis Aury attacked the fort with four ships in April 1820, but got hopelessly lost in the mangroves. Two days later he did get through, and had to pull back only after a fierce battle. On his third and final attack the pirate took the fort. The colonial administration had to bring in troops from San Pedro Sula and Comayagua to retake the fort.

In its 200-year history Fort San Fernando has twice been conquered by foreign troops. Only Aury and, 40 years before him, a British fleet got through. In their attack, the British burned nearly the whole town of Omoa, which then consisted of 75 white families and 600 black slaves. At that time, 1879, the defense of the fort was gravely insufficient with only a hundred men and 25 canons. The British occupied the harbor of Omoa and its fort for a whole five months. Reinforcements sent by the Consul of Cuba and the Viceroy of Mexico held San Fernando in siege for over a month until finally the British had to withdraw to Roatan. There are still some British canons among the ones stalled out in the courtyard.

CHAIN GANGS

Besides its military role, the fort also served as a prison. For almost two centuries, prisoners were locked up in the damp cellars facing the northwest side of the courtyard. Chain gangs of prisoners were put to work at the upkeep of San Fernando. In 1909 the Honduran government passed a decree that transformed the fort from a military stronghold to a full-time jail. Until 1959, convicts were locked up in the primitive, unhealthy cellars of the Spanish fort. It wasn't until it was taken over by the Honduran Institute of Anthropology and History that the first tourists and day-trippers were invited to visit San Fernando.

If you go, take a picnic. There's plenty of grass around the fort suitable for a leisurely meal. The beach lies at a few minutes walking, so you can end your dive into the history of Honduras' in the refreshing waves. For people who'd like to know more about the history of the place, there are several Spanish-speaking guides lounging around the terrain. They can tell you almost everything you want to know.

Entrance to the fort is a mere Lps. 20 (Lps. 10 for Hondurans). San Francisco de Omoa is open Monday through Friday from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. and on weekends from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. To get there it is easiest to drive or take the bus from Puerto Cortes. Ask around because some buses take you all the way to the fort, while most drop you off in Omoa, a 10 minute walk from la fortaleza.

Robinson Crusoe - Kuna Yala style

Have you ever wanted to be marooned on a deserted island like Robinson Crusoe? One such travel destination is Tiger Island, one of the 365 isles that make up the San Blas Archipelago off Panama's northeast coast. Here, six cabins, constructed of wild cane walls and guava branch roofs, perch themselves on pylons over the azure sea. (Photo by E. Sowers)

By CAROL L. BOWMAN
Special to Honduras This Week

Visions of being marooned on a deserted island dance though the mind of anyone familiar with Defoe's Robinson Crusoe. Does a destination exist that can power these romantic images into reality? Our "Crusoe Quest" turned toward the San Blas Archipelago, 365 isles scattered along a 200-mile stretch of Caribbean Sea off Panama's northeast coast. This nation of islands, called Kunu Yala by resident Kuna Indians, possessed the necessary ingredients. Coral laden, palmed, mostly uninhabited islands, surrounded by halos of teeming reef, dotting pristine waters sounded perfect. We selected Kwadule Island as our destination.

The adventure began at the Paitilla Municipal Airport in Panama City. Despite the predawn hour, the terminal bustled. Kuna women, laden with staples, waited for the daily air-taxi service between Panama City and their island homelands. The women fashioned traditional blouses, emblazoned with intricately sewn molas, brightly colored skirts, gold nose rings and bands of orange beads tightly binding their forearms and calves. As the Aero-Taxi craft lifted off toward dense tropical rainforest separating modern Panama from paradise, the city's skyscrapers vanished. The 30-minute flight across the Isthmus allowed little mental preparation time for what lay ahead.

The six-seated Cessna landed on a precariously, narrow sandbar, next to Corazón de Jesús, an inhabited island metropolis by San Blas standards. One leg remained on our journey. Ismael Rojas, one of Kwadule's eco-resort owners, personally greets every plane carrying guests. He would never miss watching traveler's expressions as they step into "Crusoe mode."

During the 15-minute boat ride from the airstrip, Ismael proudly talked about Kwadule, which in Kuna dialect means "living heart or rising heart." We felt the adrenalin of adventure pump through our veins upon the island's first sight. The sun hung low in the horizon, streaming through swaying coconut palms onto pure while crystalline beaches. Six cabins, constructed of wild cane walls and guava branch roofs, perched themselves on pylons over the azure sea. Kuna crafted hammocks beckoned to ease the stresses of hectic lives. We fell silent.

Upon alighting from the boat, feelings of isolation and sounds of silence overcame us. Busy daily routines, schedules and compulsions to "do something" normally propel us. Our uneasiness to relax exploded with urges to explore the island, reef and cabins. Dropping off the 20 pounds of allotted luggage, including snorkel gear, at the cabin took two minutes. Island exploration, including shell hunting took another ten. A cursory glance around and we realized that excluding Ismael and three staff, we numbered the only two souls on the island! Panic! The long awaited Robinson Crusoe transformation was not going well. It eluded us for a time.

Kwadule's age is a mere 36 years, which in the scope of island formation, makes it an infant. It measures 10,000 square meters, which in the scope of land mass, makes it infinitesimal. We stood on ground that was younger than we and smaller than our backyard. We wanted "marooned," we ached for "deserted." Now we had it, but what to do with it? Here, time is gauged by sunrises and sunsets, high tides and low. Accept this or "go mad," we thought. It finally struck us. Robinson Crusoe experienced similar feelings during his desperate days of transition. Gradually, we succumbed to Kwadule's lure. Watches and shoes fell away first, followed quickly by worries. With no distractions, our senses heightened to everything around us. The burdens of frenzied life styles peeled away, layer by layer.

Although the mental state may liken Robinson Crusoe's, amenities on the island bore no resemblance. Our rustic cabin provided welcomed comforts of private bath, hot water shower and three twin beds. The adjoining balcony hovered over crystalline waters, while tides rhythmically lapped against the pylons in lullaby fashion. Directly beneath the cabin, the shoreline provided easy wading access for snorkeling the colorful, coral reef, a stone's throw from our front door. Located 100 yards on the opposite shore, stood the "Club House," a large hut made with the same local materials as the cabins. Here staff prepared and served three scrumptious meals daily of local dishes and freshly caught seafood. During our stay, we feasted on shrimp, octopus, she-crab, lobster and a special treat, Tulle Massy, the national Kuna dish made with onion, plantain, coconut milk and fried fish.

All island workers must originate from Kuna tribes to preserve the integrity of their culture and to resist outside influences. Ismael, our man "Friday," took us to El Tigre Island, a 30-minute boat ride, to witness the actual life style of a Kuna village. The lucrative business of "mola making" stands-out as an island economic mainstay. Kuna women cut intricate patterns on several layers of wildly colored material, carefully handsewing around the designs. These Kuna have grasped the concepts of capitalism, despite a tenaciousness to their customs and traditions.

As we embarked on El Tigre, the village mayor appeared. He advised us that taking village landscape photos costs US$10, using a video camera costs US$25 and snapping close-up individual shots costs US$1 each. You either pay up or relinquish your camera while there! News of visitors spread throughout the village. Women stood outside their hunts, offering mounds of molas for sale. Prices varied according to the artistry, design and workmanship, but the women rarely bargained. After a brief sojourn through the hard sell streets of El Tigre, we tired of this business. We longed for the isolation and solitude of Kwadule.

As we passed our last magic evening on the balcony, we assessed our progress. Day one proved unsettling as we struggle to alter mind sets. By day two, signs of the tortoise emerged from the hare. Day three, we caved into total submission. We lolled in hammocks and swam endlessly among the reefs. We lounged timelessly in beach chairs parked in the sea, allowing the incoming tides to engulf us. Any movement was too much trouble. In the routine darkness of no electric nights, we watched the island's only boat leave the dock to escort the staff home to Corazón de Jesus. Totally marooned and deserted and we loved it! Kwadule Island in Kuna Yala, Panama had successfully transformed us into Robinson Crusoes.

Reservations: Kwadule Eco-Resort is operated by Green World Ecological Tours Operator, Apdo. 6-1668, El Dorado, Panama City, Rep. of Panama; 269-4198, Fax 269-6309. A representative meets you ar the Paitilla Airport to ensure a smooth departure. Reservations can also made with Astrid vander Molen, Panama Discovery at International Sales Office in Hermosa Beach, CA, (310) 546-7115 or (507) 265-3023 in Panama City, or GL Tours Adventure Travel, 1-800-334-5832, Fax (414) 275-3996.

Cost: Playing Crusoe is not cheap, but the experience is well worth the cost. An average 3 day/2 night package includes airfare, cabin, all meals, boat trip to Tiger Island, boat transfers from Corazón de Jesus airstrip and 10% Panama tax. Cost is $355 p/p. The only additional money needed is to cover the photo costs on Tiger Island, should you choose or to purchase molas directly from the Kuna. Molas are available throughout craft stores in Panama City at reasonable prices.

Baggage Limit: Due to the size of the plane, baggage is limited to 20 lbs. per person. This is strictly enforced, and baggage is limited to one per person. Snorkeling is excellent. You should take your own gear because the resort's assortment is limited.

Air Service: Daily Aero-Taxi flights leave Paitilla Municipal Airport at 6 a.m. Return flights to Panama City from Corazón de Jesús leave daily at 7 a.m.

Bay Islands Aggressor voted top quality for liveaboard diving

By CAPTAIN TERRY CLYMIRE

ROATAN -- Known throughout the world as a premiere dive destination, the Bay Islands of Honduras are located on the largest barrier reef in the Western hemisphere. They are mountainous islands first discovered by Columbus in the year 1502. Much of the charm that brought these early explorers here still remains unspoiled. Warm tropical breezes sail their way across the fringed island reefs onto the sun bleached sand beaches that show nary a footprint from other worldly treasure seekers.

These are truly English speaking Caribbean Islands with many of the inhabitants direct descents of men and woman of the high seas. These pirates, along with settlers, came from all over the world looking for the same "quaint lifestyle and unspoiled atmosphere" that today's traveler envisions as paradise.

Underwater, the diversity of the Bay Islands is limitless. The islands are known to have one of the world's largest collections of porous fibrous skeleton sponges. The many isolated dive locations along with the protected marine parks offer sites that tales are made of.

What better way to see all this than with Mr. Roatan himself, Romeo Silvestri, and aboard the Bay Island Aggressor? The vessel was once again voted "Top All-Around Liveaboard" by the readers of Rondale's Scuba Diving.

This custom built, spare-no-expense liveaboard runs from Saturday to Friday, offering guests premiere dive sites on both sides of the main island of Roatan, the exotic shallow reefs of Cayos Cochinos and the ancient volcanic canyons and shipwrecks of Guanaja. The continuous flow of marine creatures gracing the walls and canyons of Honduras' Bay Islands is the only heavy traffic guests will have to endure during their short but memorable visit with its helpful crew catering to every divers dream.

The ship itself, built to U.S. Coast Guard standards, is a 110-foot mono-hull diesel powered cruiser that reaches 15 knots with a crew of seven and offers 110-volt electrical outlets for your every need. There are seven spacious double cabins and one quad. She boasts a modern, air conditioned main salon for meals or watching TV or videos of the day's diving. The upper deck provides lounges, deck chairs, a wet bar and hot tub to enjoy the latest from the BBQ or just socializing. Also aboard is a state-of-the-art photo center to help in capturing your vacation and for viewing by those envious souls who will come next trip.

Once aboard, the crew offers all levels of dive instruction including many specialties which now include Nitrox and Atlantis I rebreathers. Dress is always casual with T-shirts and shorts most suitable for the warm climate and perhaps a windbreaker for the cool evenings.

For more information on booking, you can contact Romeo at Romeo's Restaurant in French Harbor, Roatan at (504) 45-5518 or in the United States at (800) 348-2648.