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CULTURAL

Monday, June 26, 2000 Online Edition 26

Glowing Skulls documentary to air this fallGlowing skulls of Talgua

Three thousand years ago, this native Honduran lived and thrived at Talgua. Today, his skull glows in the dark due to phosphoric fossilization. (Photo by Jorge Flores McClellan.)

 

By JORGE FLORES McCLELLAN

The 100 thousand dollar digital video camera was quietly whirring away deep inside the immense cavern in the mountains of central Honduras. It was the only sound the six T.V. crewmembers and I, their guide and translator, heard. Everyone was holding their breath as we witnessed and recorded something that actually happened 3,000 years ago: several native Hondurans were ceremoniously placing the bones and skull of a loved and revered member of their tribe, in the damp, dead quiet darkness of the cave.

The three men and two women with bronzed skin, dressed in simple loin cloths, had painted the skull red with a special paint, and were looking with the light of simple torches for a secluded and appropriate place to lay the bones to rest among hundreds, if not thousands, of other members of their tribe.

The ancient tribe built dirt mounds on which they made their houses. For the T.V. documentary, waddle and daub huts will be added with computers in this re-enactment. (Photo by Jorge Flores McClellan.)

They found the best place they could in the intricate maze of stalactites and stalagmites and carefully placed the remains in the dark for all eternity, or so they thought. The secret prehistoric mausoleum for this human skeleton and hundreds of others was found by modern man 3,000 years later, at the end of the 20th century in one of the most important archeological finds.

What we had just watched was a realistic reenactment for a Discovery Channel television documentary of what archaeologists and anthropologists indicate happened three millennia ago, according to carbon dating of the remains.

The cavern is one of several in the vicinity of Catacamas in the departamento or province of Olancho. The area is riddled with caves, several not yet completely explored, and there are ancient towns and cities in the valleys that can be recognized by characteristic dirt and stone mounds where they built their simple wattle and daub houses above the plain. Ceramic artifacts can be found strewn in many places, especially in some areas where Hurricane Mitch washed away the top layers of soil.

Entrance to the Cave of the Glowing Skulls, Talgua, Olancho. (Photo by Jorge Flores McClellan.)

ACCIDENTAL DISCOVERY

The most famous is the Cave of Talgua where, accidentally, in 1994, four Honduran locals and two American Peace Corps volunteers discovered a hidden alcove deep inside the cave that had been explored many times before. The chamber can only be reached by using ladders or rock climbing equipment. The first man who saw the cemetery was Desiderio Reyes, who lives and works in Catacamas. Nobody knows exactly how the ancient tribe climbed up to the place. The natural hall had the remains of hundreds of persons that, through the millennia, fossilized with a mixture of calcium and phosphorous, making them glow in the dark, hence the name.

Their discovery led to the beginning of a new era in Honduran archeology and the rethinking of American paleontology that now looks back and away thousands of years before the great Mayan eras in Mesoamerica toward this modest, yet unbeknownst ancient Mecca and prosperous area of Honduras, far away from Copan and other Mayan metropolis.

These and many other artifacts will be on display in the Talgua Visitor's Center and in the National Museum in Tegucigalpa. (Photo by Jorge Flores McClellan.)

Today, two of the main caves of Talgua, especially the Cave of the Glowing Skulls, are part of an archaeological park carefully maintained and zealously protected by the Honduran Institute of Anthropology and History (IHAH) and of the majestic Sierra de Agalta Tropical Forest Protected Area mountains, which loom in the background as the eternal gravekeepers.

REWRITING HISTORY

After four years of intensive television production coordination on the part of Dean Love Productions, Gancie Television and GeoVentures Inc., and with the cooperation of IHAH, which is directed by Olga Joya, the documentary is due to air in the United States on the Discovery Channel this fall and later, when it is dubbed into Spanish, throughout Latin America.

Dean Love, (43), who received an Emmy in 1994 for his documentary titled "Life on Mars?" about the meteorite found in the Antarctic which could prove there was life on Mars, and his close friend, associate and director of photography, Vincent Gancie, (45), have dedicated themselves to the task of overcoming physical, bureaucratic and economic obstacles in Honduras and the United States to record, investigate and tell the story of the people that lived, prospered, died and were buried in the area of Talgua.

They have worked with eminent archaeologist, Dr. Jim Brady and the late Dr. George Hasemann, who lived and worked in Honduras for decades until his death in 1998, among other noted scientists.

According to Love and Gancie, this last piece of videography is a tribute to the ancient Hondurans who lived in this wildly beautiful area of the country, and the closure of their story, as told by their remains.

POLAROID FRENZY

Three thousand years later, Talgua Arriba, the town near the caves, is a typical Honduran, end of the road, middle of nowhere village, vibrant with friendly people and brimming with smiling youths. The area is one of the most fertile in the country, with easy access, and relatively prosperous and healthy.

They, and the people of Guanaja (spelled like the Bay Island) -- the village before Talgua Arriba -- are now getting used to the cars and buses full of visitors to the cave that now, thanks to the excellent work of the IHAH, has a lighted walkway and guides through the cavernous maze. It also has several buildings for lectures and later, a collection of artifacts and skeletons.

Hurricane Mitch severely damaged the biggest building just one month before its opening. According to Joya, everything possible is being done to complete the facilities again. Other artifacts will be on display in the National Museum to be located in the old Presidential Palace in Tegucigalpa, which is currently the Museo de la Republica.

The Discovery Channel crew: (left) Gaelle de Tassigny, Joe Rose, Vincent Gancie, David Love; (crouching, left) Chad Findlay, Dean Love. (Photo by Jorge Flores McClellan.)

In a last goodbye, goodwill gesture, Love, Gancie and their crew decided to stop one last time in the town where they had passed so many times before to do their work. They wanted to give the kids something to remember them by and their thanks for treating them so well.

"We wanted to give back some of their warmth. Ever since one of the ladies here cried after seeing her child in a Polaroid photo I took of her, I decided to take many more and give them to these beautiful people," said Love.

Instead of just taking pictures and leaving with them, the crew took the Polaroids and distributed them in what became an appropriately loud and happy ending ceremony for the documentary work.

"Every visitor and tourist should have a Polaroid camera. A photo of themselves in their houses is the best gift one can give way out here to these people who welcome you," says Dean Love.

The infrastructure is all there to welcome visitors to the Talgua Cave. This unbeaten path of archeological adventure is worth the trip for its mystical location and aura.

As one Honduran observer said, "The mystery is unique. It goes beyond a material discovery. Just look at the signs, if they left behind glowing skulls, it means they must have had brilliant minds," he laughs.

For information on the documentary, visit <http://www.deanlove.com>. For travel, <tourisminfo@iht.hn>; or IHAH: hondihah@sdhhon.org.hn; Hotel Juan Carlos, Catacamas: (504) 899-4212.

Tunu the preferred bark cloth tree of Central America

Tuni bark cloth - La Mosquitia, Honduras
Typical tunu designs feature animals and plants indigenous
 to the Mosquitia.

By WENDY GRIFFIN

Over three meters of rain per year fall on the Central American Mosquitia rain forest, making cotton or leather uncomfortable to wear. To solve the problem of clothing and bedding that did not easily rot or mold in a continuously damp climate, the indigenous peoples of Honduras and Nicaragua turned to tree fibers.

Central Americans know how to tear the inner bark of trees like cedar into strips for weaving, as Northwest American Indians did. However, for clothes they preferred tunu bark cloth. The young tunu tree must be cut down to make this cloth. The outer bark is removed and the trunk left in water. With a wooden mallet, women pound the inner bark until it is about three feet across.

Honduran Tawahkas still sew tunu folk dance outfits. However, the principal use of tunu now is for crafts sold to tourists.

After making the naturally cream colored tunu cloth, the women then dye it. Previously, they used natural dyes and the colors have special significance. Tourists complained these colors were too dull, and now commercial dyes are used.

Women cut the dyed cloth and paste it in layers to make pictures of macaws, toucans, parrots and Miskito Indians at work. The same organization that helps the Miskito women in Wampusirpe distribute their crafts, the Organization for the Development of the Mosquitia (MOPAWI), also has a butterfly project at Raista, Honduras and a Marine Turtle project at Plaplaya, so butterfly and turtle motifs are popular.

Tunu can also be left its natural color. Then the women embroider scarlet macaws or green parrots. Tunu is strong enough to be machine sewn. Miskito Minelio Smith says his people put animals in their tunu designs to show the harmony of man and animals living together in nature.

Hurricane Mitch did not disturb the tunu trees, according to the Tawahka. However, flooding caused by Mitch wiped out over 95 percent of their agriculture and over 50 percent of their homes and school buildings. As all their efforts have gone toward re-establishing their agriculture, the Tawahkas have produced almost no tunu last year. Most Pech Indians also produced no tunu, because deforestation by loggers has wiped out trees there.

In contrast, the Miskito women's cooperative has a tunu reforestation project that was undamaged by Mitch. They are producing more tunu and of better quality than before Mitch, reports a MOPAWI employee. With reforestation, tunu production does not destroy the rain forest, but rather supports sustainable development.

Tunu cloth may be ordered whole, dyed or undyed from MOPAWI. They hope to have a catalogue to facilitate ordering wall hangings, pillows, vests, cards, Christmas ornaments, and other gifts.

For more information, contact MOPAWI at Apartado Postal 2175, Tegucigalpa, Honduras; fax (504) 235-8659 or (504) 239-9234; e-mail <mopawi@optinet.hn>.

   

The Maya Calendar
A guide to the best in Honduran culture

CULTURAL EVENTS

FRESH PAINTING EXHIBIT -- JUNE 29 -- The Ministry of Culture and the Honduran Institute of Hispanic Culture (IHCH) will present the painting exhibit titled Nuevos Valores (New Values), featuring the works of Willy Flores, Rene Oviedo and Wilmer Castro Sandre. The inauguration will be at 7 p.m. at IHCH's facilities in Col. Lomas del Guijarro, Tegucigalpa. More information at 232-5578.

PAINTING EXHIBIT -- THROUGH JUNE -- The Holiday Inn Hotel in San Pedro Sula is host to a collective exhibit of paintings titled Noche de Musica, Poema y Color. The activity is part of the Feria Juniana program.

CARICATURE EXHIBIT -- THROUGH JUNE -- The Ministry of Culture invites the public to an exhibit of caricatures by Bey Abendano at the El Progreso Casa de la Cultura.

VIRGIN MARY ART EXHIBIT -- THROUGH JUNE -- The Foundation for the Museum of the Honduran Man is presenting the Maria, madre de la ternura art exhibit at their headquarters in the Casa Ramon Rosa, Tegucigalpa. Paintings from the 19th century as well as new works make up the display.

MARTIN RIVERA'S PAINTINGS -- THROUGH JUNE -- Mi Tierra y Mi Gente (Mi land and my people) is the title of the painting exhibit being held by Martin Rivera at the House of Culture in the city of La Paz, La Paz department.

PERMANENT EXHIBIT -- The Mujeres en las Artes association has an exhibit of paintings, silk screenings and drawings titled Mujer en Blanco y Negro by Carolina Kiersten Medina. More information at 221-0697.

HONDURAN RELIGIOUS ART -- The National Art Gallery is host to an exhibit titled Religious Art in Honduras. More information at 237-9884, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

PHILATELIC EXHIBIT -- THROUGH JULY 2 -- The Centro Cultural Sampedrano is host to an exhibit on Honduran stamps as part of the activities of the Feria Juniana.

COMEDY -- THROUGH JUNE -- The Circulo Teatral Sampedrano and Texaco are presenting the comedy, Una Noche de Primavera sin Sueno (A Sleepless Spring Night), at the Centro Cultural Sampedrano Thursdays through Saturdays at 8 p.m. Admission is Lps. 40.

CONCERTS -- JUNE 29 - JULY 2 -- The residents of San Pedro Sula are celebrating their traditional Feria Juniana with a variety of concerts at the Campo Agas at 8 p.m. On June 29, come and enjoy the Profesionales, while the Los Roland band will perform all night July 2.

FLORAL POETRY CONTEST -- JUNE 30 -- The Ministry of Culture invites writers from Nacaome, Choluteca, Juticalpa, El Paraiso, Gracias, La Paz, Comayagua, Santa Barbara, Tela and La Ceiba to participate in the Houses of Culture Floral Contest. Participants must send two unpublished poems no later than June 30. A jury will select the winner on July 1. More information at 221-3928.

HISPANIC POETRY -- JULY 7 -- The Ministry of Culture will present a video tape on Hispanic poetry by Honduran poet Leda Zuniga at 7 p.m. at the Manuel Bonilla National Theater in Tegucigalpa.

THE READING CORNER -- SATURDAYS -- The Museum of History and Anthropology of San Pedro Sula offers parents and children the possibility of sharing a fun, educational time by reading stories, every Saturday from 2 to 4 p.m. More information at 557-1798.

POETRY AWARDS -- JUNE 29 -- The San Pedro Sula Museum of History and Anthropology will be host to the Juegos Florales poetry contest award ceremony at 7:30 p.m.

CULTURAL TOURISM -- JUNE 27 -- The French Alliance in Tegucigalpa, the National Pedagogical University (UPN) and the International Council for the Protection of Monuments and Historic Sites will offer a conference on "Cultural Tourism and its Implications" by Gloria Lara Pinto. The event will take place at the French Alliance's facilities in Col. Lomas del Guijarro at 7 p.m. Admission is free.

ART CLASSES -- JUNE, JULY -- Sara Morris Swetcharnik offers art classes for children, teenagers and adults, Saturdays from 10 to 11:30 a.m. at the Union Church in Col. Lomas del Guijarro in Tegucigalpa. For more information, call 211-8369, e-mail <swetcharnik@hood.edu>.

CULTURAL DIVERSITY -- JULY 18 - AUGUST 14 -- The Ministries of Foreign Relations and Culture of Honduras, along with the National Institute of History and Anthropology of Mexico, invite researchers and students to a seminar on Cultural Diversity in Mexico. Topics to be discussed include World Cultural Conflicts, Ethics and Politics for Diversity, and Profile of Multi-cultural Societies. The cost is $5,000.00; grants are available. For more information call 221-3928 (Tegucigalpa), or 5525-3376 (Mexico).

CHILDREN ART WORKSHOPS -- THROUGH AUGUST 5 -- The Mujeres en las Artes "Leticia de Oyuela" association is offering the art course "A world of colors" for children aged 8 to 9, Saturdays from 2 to 4 p.m. Registration is Lps. 600. More information at 221-0697.

DANCE, GUITAR & PAINTING COURSES -- The Honduran Institute of Hispanic Culture (IHCH) teaches the Sevillana Spanish dance, guitar and paintings skills. More information at 232-5578.

ART, LEARNING & TUTORING FOR CHILDREN -- The Art and Education Center, BONAMPAK, at the Plaza Millennium in Comayaguela offers hourly art courses, reading courses and tutoring services for children. More information at 222-5487.

 

CULTURAL SUNDAYS -- THROUGH JUNE -- The organizers of the Juniana Fair in San Pedro Sula are holding an activity called Children's Cultural Sundays at the Benito Juarez plaza at 9 a.m.

SCIENCE CONTEST -- The Government of Mexico invites all Honduran and Central American scientists to participate in the Mexican Science and Technology Award 2000. Each candidate must be proposed by an academic or scientific institution. The winner will receive a $350,000 award. Candidates must send their documents no later than July 31. For more information, the Ministry of Culture at Tel. 221-3928, Fax 236-9532, or call Mexico at (5) 723-6682, Fax 723-6684.

REPTILE CENTER -- The first Rehabilitation Center for Reptiles and Amphibians (PCHRERA) is open to the public, who can observe and touch live snakes, turtles, lizards and crocodiles. It is located in Col. Godoy, 30 meters on the road toward Colonia Lomas de Toncontin or IPM, 1st street on the right, the 3rd house.

CLUBS

FAMILIES ANONYMOUS -- Families Anonymous (FA) meetings are held Tuesdays at the Union Church at 7:30 p.m. Call Eileen for more information at 239-9779 or 239-9778.

AL-ANON FAMILY GROUPS -- Al-Anon helps the relatives and friends of problem drinkers. Groups meet Saturdays afternoon in Colonia Alameda and Sundays evening in Colonia Loarque in Tegucigalpa. For more information, contact Amanda at 239-2698 (Spanish) or Margaret at 226-6576 (English).

NARCOTICS ANONYMOUS -- Having problems with drugs, alcohol? Meetings are held in Spanish every Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 7:30 p.m. in Colonia Palermo, Ave. Juan Manuel Galvez, 1 calle # 1836. For more information, call Ricardo at 991-9417 or 232-8989.

ENGLISH SPEAKING WOMEN'S CLUB -- The ESWC invites all English-speaking women to its teas held the second Thursday of each month at 2:30 p.m. at the Hotel Honduras Maya in Tegucigalpa.

MUSEUMS & GARDENS

TEGUCIGALPA

MUSEO DE HISTORIA REPUBLICANA

The Museum of Republican History is located at the Villa Roy building in Tegucigalpa's Barrio Buenos Aries.  It is open 8:30 to 3:30, Tuesdays through Sundays and features portraits, paraphernalia, and other interesting items from past presidents.  Admission is Lps. 20 for non-resident foreigners and Lps. 10 for Hondurans and Central Americans.  For more information, call 222-3470 or 222-1468.

CENTRAL BANK MUSEUM

The Central Bank of Honduras located at the Comayaguela annex building is open from 9 a.m. to noon and from 1 to 4 p.m., Monday to Friday.  It has a permanent coin and painting exhibit.  For special presentations, call the Emision y Tesoreria department at 237-2270 (-78), ext. 2117 (-2120). [CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE.]

NATIONAL ART GALLERY

The Galeria Nacional de Arte features rock art, pre-Columbian ceramics, colonial paintings, religious art and a wide selection of 20th century Honduran painters.  The gallery is located at the Plaza de la Merced in downtown Tegucigalpa.  It is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10-5 p.m. and Sunday from 10-2 p.m.  Admission is Lps. 10 for adults, Lps. 5 for senior citizens, Lps. 3 for students and Lps. 1 for children accompanied by adults.

IGUANA FARM

The Biosfera Ecocentro Iguana Farm in Colonia La Joya invites the public to come and learn everything about iguanas.  Admission is Lps. 5 for adults, Lps. 3 for children.  The facility is open every day (except Wednesday) from 9 to 5.  For more ingormation, call 230-6346.

 

COMAYAGUA, COMAYAGUA

COMAYAGUA MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY

Located in the city of Comayagua, two hours north of Tegucigalpa, the Comayagua Museum of Archaeology is in the building that served as the seat of government in the 19th century.  Exhibits include prehistoric fossils, cave art, ceramics, and objects used by indigenous cultures during the pre-Colombian era.  The museum, which also has a small library, is open to the public Tuesdays through Sundays from 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.

COMAYAGUA RELIGIOUS MUSEUM

Located in the Casa Cural in front of Comayagua's cathedral, this museum features religious paintings and objects dating back to the 16th century.  Hours are 8-12 and 2-4 p.m., Mondays through Fridays.  For more information, contact Leonardo Letona at 772-0348.

 

LA PAZ, LA PAZ

LA PAZ HOUSE OF CULTURE

The La Paz Casa de la Cultura is located in downtown La Paz.  It features an attractive exhibit of the Lenca handicrafts and culture.  It is open Mondays through Sundays.

 

SAN PEDRO SULA, CORTES

SPS MUSEUM OF ANTHROPOLOGY AND HISTORY

The Museo de Antropologia e Historia de San Pedro Sula features exhibits on the development of Sula Valley, from 1500 B.C. to the middle of this century.  The museum is open 10 a.m. to 4:15 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays and 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Sundays.  Admission is Lps. 10 for adults, Lps. 5 for students and children under 12, and Lps. 2 for senior citizens.  For more information, call 557-1496/557-1798 or fax 557-1874.

MUSEUM OF NATURE OF SAN PEDRO SULA

Sponsored and managed by the Fundacion Ecologista H.R. Pastor Fasquelle, this new museum was inaugurated last December in its current location at the Biocentro on 3 Avenida and 9 Calle Noroeste.  It has 24 exhibits on the environment, natural resources and biology of Honduras.  Hours are 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily and 8 a.m. until noon on Saturdays.  Admission is Lps 5 for students from public schools and Lps. 10.00 for everyone else.

 

YUSCARAN, EL PARAISO

YUSCARAN HOUSE OF CULTURE

Yuscaran's Casa de la Cultura is located at the former Casa Fortin in downtown Yuscaran, El Paraiso department, just 45 km from Tegucigalpa on the road to Danli.  It is open Mondays through Saturdays.

 

OLANCHO

PECH CULTURAL CENTER

The Pech have built a small house in El Carbon, Olancho to display their modern handicrafts.  An exhibit of archaeological finds in the area is planned.  You can ask to see the collection and/or get a tour of a Post Classic era fortified site.  The Pech Cultural Center also offers medicinal plant tours, nature hikes, Pech dinners, etc.  There is no admission fee to the cultural center.  Hours: If you ask, they will open it.

 

COPAN

COPAN ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

Located in the village of Copan Ruinas, Copan department, the museum exhibits a splendid assortment of Mayan pieces that have been found in the Copan Ruins Archaeological Park just 1 km away.

LA PUENTE ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

Featuring a sizeable collection of Mayan handicrafts and photographs as well as a room with Japanese antique ceramics, this museum is located at the El Puente Archaeological Site, about an hour's drive from Copan Ruinas.

MAYAN SEPULTURAS MUSEUM

Inaugurated in 1996, this is the premier Mayan museum in the Mundo Maya, featuring the finest examples of Copan's tombs, sculptures and architecture.  Located at the Copan Ruins Archaeological Park, the museum is open Monday through Sunday.

 

TELA, ATLANTIDA

LANCETILLA BOTANICAL GARDENS

Located 2 kilometers from Tela on the Atlantic coast highway, the gardens feature one of the largest collections of tropical and subtropical plants, shrubs and trees in all Latin America.  It is open from 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Mondays through Sundays.  There is an admission charge.

 

LA CEIBA, ATLANTIDA

 BUTTERFLY AND INSECT MUSEUM

Thousands of butterflies and insects from Honduras and 18 other countries are on display in La Ceiba' private Butterfly and Insect Museum.  It is located in Colonia El Sauce, 2nd etapa, casa G-12.  Visiting hours are 8-12 and 2-5, Monday through Saturday.  The museum is closed Wednesday afternoon.  Fees are Lps. 15 for adults and Lps. 10 for students.  Tel. 442-2874, e-mail: rlehman@ns.gbm.hn

 

TRUJILLO

TRUJILLO RUFINO GALAN MUSEUM

A private museum which has a memorabilia section, old chairs, anchors, silverware, beds of famous people locally.  There is an industrial archaeology section on how lights, axes, stoves, sewing machines, typewriters have changed over time.  They have a good collection of Garifuna handicrafts and the best collection

of NE Honduras archaeological pieces ‑‑ all unmarked.  A written guide to the museum is available at the Trujillo Tourism Office in English and Spanish.  The museum is open 8 to 4, closing for lunch.  Adults Lps. 20, children Lps. 10.  Located on Calle 18 de Mayo, next to the Crystales River and the famous "piscina" or pool, about a 15-minute walk out of town.

 

ROATAN, THE BAY ISLANDS

CARAMBOLA BOTANICAL GARDENS

The private Carambola Botanical Gardens and Nature Trails is located in Sandy Bay, Roatan, Bay Islands.  A wide variety of exotic plants is featured here, including "Roatan's most extensive orchid collection."  It is open daily from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.  For more information, call 445-1117 and ask for Bill or Irma Brady.

BAY ISLANDS MUSEUM

A private museum at Anthony's Key Resort, Sandy Bay, Roatan, Bay Islands, it mostly includes archaeological pieces, but there is a small section on the modern Bay Islanders.  Museum admission is included in the cost of the dolphin show at Anthony Key's Institute of Marine Sciences.  Small buses or taxis will take you to Sandy Bay from most Roatan towns.

The Maya Calendar is a public service for our readers.  If you would like to announce an event taking place in Honduras, please send the information to: Calendar Editor, Honduras This Week, Fax 232-2300, e-mail: hontweek@hondutel.hn

Monday, June 19, 2000 Online Edition 25

Artist developing glass-blowing project in historic mining town

Regina Aguilar Paz hopes to restore the self-esteem and dignity of San Juancito's residents through project

Artist Regina Aguilar Paz works on one of her sculptures at the San Juancito School and Workshop.

By ALEJANDRA FLORES BERMUDEZ

Special to Honduras This Week              

Regina Aguilar Paz, a prominent artist who has represented Honduras in numerous competitions and in many galleries of Europe and the United States, is currently developing a glass-blowing project in San Juancito.

Her amazing strength and love for Honduras took her to this small town where for years she has worked with the miners, peasants and artisans, teaching and producing decorative, functional, and artistic objects of rock, iron, mosaics and carved wood.

She is now planning a new project among the villagers: glass-blowing.  Her objective is to create a source of income among the people of San Juancito to provide more dignity and self-esteem in a town that she calls "The Renegade" of Honduras, because it has been forgotten since the mining company left it.

Students learn and practice new artistic techniques at the workshop.

In a recent interview with Honduras This Week, Aguilar was asked about her ongoing struggle for the people and life of San Juancito.

HTW: We received an invitation to attend the art exhibition in San Juancito that you sponsored of the works of the children of the Magic School and the miners, peasants and artisans who are students of the Escuela Taller San Juancito.  There were wonderful pieces of art on exhibit.  Tell us more about the art exhibition.

Aguilar: The art exhibition was a success because the children could show all the work they've been doing for the last year and it was important for them to show what they can do, their talent, their creativity and the expression of their own ideas.  It was also important for the parents to see what the children are capable of doing, because at the beginning of the project the parents did not understand and they didn't think it was important but after a year of work the parents could see that some of the children are really changing their behavior, especially the children who went through the loss of their homes due to Hurricane Mitch.  Some of the children were suffering from insomnia and neurosis and other emotional disorders and the school has helped them to be calmer and to think more positively and to remember that the world is beautiful; that you can be creative, that there is hope through color, through form and through fun.

HTW: In what sense has the Magic School worked "magic" in the town and to the people?

Aguilar: Well, I was just saying that the children can have a positive look, a vision of life because most of these children are poor and it's a hard life in their homes, but they come to the school and first of all they know that they're going to have fun and they are in touch, in contact, with color and music and shapes, with materials, and they have freedom to be themselves, which is very important, too.  They have hope in themselves because they realize that they are capable of producing beautiful things, combining beautiful colors.  They have regained self-confidence, self-esteem.

HTW: Then we can say it's a miracle in other ways, not only through the artistic achievements but through the recuperation of the history of the town of San Juancito.  San Juancito was a mining town.  Can you tell us how this nostalgia is being changed into hope with art, wood, iron and glass?  How is all this becoming the new "gold" of San Juancito?

Aguilar: Well, the new mines are the human beings.  What is really being mined and queried is human beings and the town is becoming more active through this work with the arts and handcrafts, and also because through these exhibitions there's a new aspect in town.  During the golden years of mining, there was art, you know, there was singing, there was dancing and they had plays and theater.  San Juancito was the very first town with movies in all Central America in 1910.  It was indoors with silent movies, black and white.  You can still see the first cameras.  These cameras are at a house, and we would love to build a museum, the mining museum, which is one of the town's projects.  The San Juancito Foundation has the project.  It's a foundation created to channel different cultural, artistic, social, economic, and agricultural projects -- any project -- that can benefit the town.

The main forces of San Juancito were male, but actually the present trend of San Juancito is female.  Hurricane Mitch was a big shock to San Juancito, and sometimes I thank God for the hurricane because it came to shake up the people.  So the women have organized themselves with the help of the San Juancito Foundation and we created a new foundation called Angels' Works.  They have organized a sewing group and they're making dolls for exporting and they're making aprons, potholders...  In April we're supposed to have the first glass-blowing course for women.  In the past, men went to work in the mines.  Now, it is women who sustain the economic life of San Juancito.  They're willing to work and they're great workers.  They're on time and they work hard and they don't complain, even though they have more difficulty to work than men because they need somebody to take care of their children; when they come home they have to cook...

HTW: Could you tell us more about working with glass with the women?

Aguilar: Two years ago we had a wonderful teacher, Aileen Jager, who came to teach the men.  We had a five-day glass-blowing course on a small scale.  She loved it so much that she wants to come back this year to teach the women, because they want to work.  Since we don't have large glass-blowing facilities with big furnaces, etc., and because they're too expensive, we can start working with a torch.  This is work they do sitting down; with small torches they can make goblets and small things which I think would sell.  I know the women are good with their hands because I've seen them.  Recently, we had a wonderful course for making lampshades with paper and glue.  It was beautiful.  They made beautiful things.  I know the women can do it and I would love to start my glass project with the women.  Eventually, I would like to have a glass-blowing factory with the women.  It would be unique.

HTW: But you have already started a factory with the men...

Aguilar: Well, I have been working on one for many years.  We have the building, we have a feasibility study, but we need money because it's expensive; you know, big furnaces...  The signs of San Juancito have changed from sun to moon.  In the past it was the sun, male, it was the men's power.  Now it's the women, moonlight.  The children are the hope.  The children and the women have very open minds.  I think in a way, San Juancito has been so forgotten because of the attitude of the men.

HTW: On Feb. 3 you were interviewed by a Catholic radio station here in Tegucigalpa.  Your students said that they were learning to be artists without having to leave their town.  Tell us more about your students: the peasants, the miners and the young artisans.

Aguilar: All this time I was in San Juancito I was only teaching a trade: forging, wood carving, welding...  But now, since I saw the need to improve their capacity to produce, to create, we have included a new program which teaches them design, drawing, theory of color...so one day they can be independent creators and don't have to depend on me for designs.  This program also comprises a marketing course and a general managing course.  It's a three-year program and when they graduate they are more able to have their own shops.  Eventually, we would like to have a network of shops and then have someone else who could market [the products] because it's difficult to compete by yourself.  Being together would be better.  The foundation also has a fund in this project that is called "The Mine" to help these young graduates to form their own shops.  They have started to buy equipment and the men work in their homes after school.  We had the exhibition in December and we had many people coming.  Most of the students sold their works, so we're going to be producing new works for the next exhibition.  The children and the miners sold their works.  This was the first time that the miners were given absolute freedom to create an object and produce it, and they came up with beautiful things.

HTW: Who are the artists who come from abroad to teach in the workshops?

Aguilar: We have a French painter, Elenie Barthelemy, we had Aileen Jager.  We had Dominique Perez Raton of Costa Rica.  We've had many artists who have contributed to the project.  We had a professional clown for the children and we have a therapist who came to do a healing-through-movement workshop because we have a small cultural center and it sponsors not only art but all the courses that benefit the town.  They teach in exchange for staying there or using the shop.

HTW: How can we say that your dream has come true?

Aguilar: Eight years ago, when I returned to Honduras, my dream was very different.  I was coming from a more selfish kind of structure where I had my own studio.  I sold to galleries, museums and collectors.  My first dream was to have my own shop.  I started having more human contacts, which is more satisfying than working by yourself because you're sharing and this makes life better.  So little by little the project started growing and now my dream is to see these people turn into better human beings, with more self-esteem, aware of what they can do.  To know that there are no limits to creativity and also to see that their economic situation is better because they make wages so they can support their families.  People are working now.  We opened a store so we could sell the products of the school because one of our goals is to be self sufficient and the project is costing a lot of money...  The store is a way of having some income.  It's a very nice store and we would like to export.  In Vitro is on Boulevard Morazan next to Delipan.  We have catalogues with things that we can make.  We have rock, iron, carved wood, lamps, mosaics.  We make lampshades that are very beautiful, we have things for the house that are functional, decorative and we take commissions.  We can make gates and rails for stairways.  We can make balconies.

HTW: How do you think the government could help improve the situation of San Juancito?

Aguilar: San Juancito has so much history.  It was really where the economic development of the country started.  Half of the water of Tegucigalpa is from La Tigra.  The first electricity that came to Tegucigalpa came from San Juancito, too.  San Juancito is totally forgotten.  To make it more active and help the town would be nice.  They could pave the 18 kilometers from Valle de Angeles to San Juancito.  We have been waiting for the telephones to be installed.  FHIS [Honduran Social Investment Fund] could repair the streets.  SOPTRAVI [the Ministry of Public Works] has helped.  If we could have the road paved, the streets fixed, maybe pass a law that people should paint their homes and plant flowers.  The town is picturesque already so it doesn't need too much.  We have a main plaza that needs to be paved.  We lost the community center with Mitch.  We need to have a new meeting place.  The sewage system needs to be fixed.  We need to have a project for planting trees.  People are stationed over the river basin, which is all rocks and sand; we need to plant trees to hold the land, it's all loose.  We need more people to be actively involved.  Maybe through the San Juancito Foundation we can make the project more open to the public.  We would welcome new ideas and support them.  The town can become a very nice place.  There are a lot of possibilities.  We have La Tigra mountain, all the history that hasn't been exploited....  Having a museum, a photographic exhibition, people could come.  In the future, they could also watch the glass-blowing shop and buy...

First lady inaugurates playground in San Antonio de Flores

The children of the municipality of San Antonio de Flores, Choluteca can now play in a healthy environment following the inauguration of a new playground by First Lady Mary Flake de Flores.

The inaugural ceremony was attended by Mayor Florentino Euceda Motino, Army Chief of Staff Col. Daniel Lopez Carballo and other high-ranking officials who all applauded the first lady's work.

Mrs. Flores said it was a pleasure for her to return to this picturesque town, since the people there are always so friendly.  At the same time, she invited the children to enjoy the playground with their families and friends, since it helps to promote family values and cooperation.

"You have to learn to share the playground with your friends and play together because there are many children here and everyone has a right to enjoy it," she said.

She said sports are nourishment for the soul and that physical exercise strengthens the body, the mind and the heart.  It also helps to keep away stress and vices like alcohol and drugs.

The first lady added that she took the opportunity to congratulate the new Armed Forces of Honduras during the ceremony because they are something to be proud of and an example for future generations.

"We know that they want to help all the children of Honduras, something that was proven during Hurricane Mitch, since they were the first to give their support to those directly affected, and months later they were still bringing food to the most hard-hit communities.  Now, they are helping with recreational areas for children," she said.

Mrs. Flores then congratulated the wife of the Army Chief of Staff, Dona Margarita de Lopez Carballo, for her initiative to build the playgrounds, because most children there had no place to play.

The ceremony ended with applause and cheers for the first lady, who afterward talked with the kids and parents about their needs.

Cultural Briefs

Poetry contests

Honduran writers are invited to participate in the Octavio Paz and Jaime Sabinas poetry contests, which are being organized by the Octavio Paz Foundation and the Art and Cultural Council of Chiapas, respectively.

All works must be received by July 15 (Octavio Paz contest) and September 8 (Jaime Sabinas contest).  For more information, call the Ministry of Culture at (504) 221-3928.

Murillo Selva honored

The French Royal de Luxe theater group, directed by Veronique Loeve and Jean Luc Courcoult, recently offered an homage to Honduran theater producer Rafael Murillo Selva in France.

Many years ago, Murillo Selva gave a motivational workshop to the members of this group, which later became internationally recognized.  Murillo Selva travelled to France at the invitation of the Paris theater group, Compagnie K.S. and Co., where he offered several lectures and seminars.

Ballet performs in U.S.

The National Garifuna Ballet participated at the First International Folkloric Festival held recently in Dallas, Texas.  Armando Crisanto Melendez, the group's director, said their performance was much liked by the public, and he added that in October, he will offer a conference titled La Negritud, to explain the origin, arrival and participation of the Garifuna in Honduras.

 Valle de Angeles to get new cultural center

The picturesque village of Valle de Angeles will soon have a new attraction for visitors, as the former health center facilities will be remodelled to house a cultural center.

The House of Culture is part of a Lps. 4.75 million project being implemented by the Ministry of Culture to build or restore Houses of Culture in eight communities, including El Progreso, La Lima, Catacamas, El Paraiso and Danli.

Construction work will be carried out by the Honduran Social Investment Fund (FHIS).

Meanwhile, the ministry plans to repair colonial churches in the communities of Ilama, Goascoran, Langue and Santa Rosa de Copan.

Poor workers bring laughter as well as frustration

By WENDY GRIFFIN

Living in Honduras, you need a good sense of humor.  Faced with workers who have less than model habits or qualifications, Hondurans tell jokes.  The following jokes were collected by students of the National Teaching University's campus in La Ceiba.

Once a woman hired a man to help her around the house and yard.  On paying him, she said, "Now, don't go and spend all this money in the first bar you see."

"Oh, I won't," the man answered seriously.  "The guaro (sugar cane liquor) in the second bar is much better, senora."

Lazy man (haragan) stories are popular and there are many lazy man jokes, too.

Once there was a man who was very lazy.  He looked for work hoping he would not find any.  However, he found work in an office.

The employer asked, "When can you start."  The man answered, "It would be good to start in the middle of the week.  No better yet, on Friday."

The employer accepted. "Okey, come on Friday."  The man thought again, "Maybe it would be better if I started with a vacation."

Restaurant service is not all that it might be in Honduras.  Next time you are waiting for your meal, you should be thankful the following waiters were not the ones waiting on your table.

"Waiter, waiter, !Que servicio!  What is going on?  Look at how long it is taking you to bring the soup I asked for."

The waiter looked at him.  "You shouldn't get impatient, sir.  It is turtle soup."

In another restaurant a client asked the waiter, "When are you going to bring me the half chicken I ordered?"

The waiter answered, "When another client wants the other half, because we can't kill half a chicken."

The good news is that such employees don't hold these jobs forever.  One friend asks another, "Why did you leave your last job?"

"Ay, viera usted.  Por cansancio. (Well you see, because of tiredness.)

"You got tired of working?"

"No, not me.  But the boss, he got tired of me."

Some people do not get even that far in their job search.  One day two men were out looking for work.  When they came to a business, the owner asked, "What can you do?"

"Nothing," answered the first man.

"And what about you?" the boss asked the other man.

"The same.  I'm his assistant."

Failing to find work here.  I guess their next step is to try to immigrate to New Jersey.

Even thieves are a cause for jokes in Honduras.  A friend from Tegucigalpa told me there was a woman who was walking down the street by the Ministry of Education in Comayaguela.  A thief came from behind her, ripped off her necklace and bolted away.  The woman cried, "Ladron, ladron (thief, thief)," but no one stopped him.

A few minutes later, though, the thief was back.  He threw the necklace at the woman.  "Es de fantasia, (it is costume jewelry).  Senora, you should get yourself a better class of jewelry."  Then he ran off again.

Hondurans tell those jokes saying, "Mejor reir por no llorar."  It is better to laugh at these things, because otherwise they would make you cry.  

Monday, June 12, 2000 Online Edition 24

Julia Catalina Flores: El Progreso's youngest mariachi

Julia Catalina Flores Ramirez has been playing an instrument with her father's mariachi group for four years, singing popular Mexican rancheras, boleros and other songs.  At 10, she is possibly the youngest mariachi on the North Coast.  (Photo by Suyapa Carias)

By SUYAPA CARIAS

She was only 6 years old when she put away her dolls to join her father's mariachi group.  Four years later, the thin, shy girl is an expert in playing the "charango," a string instrument similar to a guitar, that is her inseparable friend on the tours and serenades made each weekend by members of the Flores family from the northern city of El Progreso, Yoro.

Her presence immediately attracts the attention of tourists dining at one restaurant located on the beach of Tela, Atlantida.  Indeed, it is unusual to see a 10-year-old girl playing an instrument in the middle of four adult men performing popular Mexican songs for money.

But for Julia Catalina Flores, this is just another working night with her two brothers, her cousin and her father, Ramon Flores Lopez.

SOLID POPULARITY

"I love to play with my family and make people happy," said the youngest female Mariachi on the North Coast, referring to the instrument she calls viruela but which is generally known as charango, a small back-rounded type of guitar used to accompany other string instruments.

Julia said it was her "old man" who taught her music.  "It was easy for her to learn the chords and tunes," said Flores López proudly.  "She definitely has a good ear."

Over the past six years these Honduran artists have incorporated more than 200 songs into their repertoire, achieving popularity in different parts of the country, including Santa Rosa de Copan, Tela and Santa Barbara.  For each song played and sung, they charge around Lps. 25, or they can be hired to perform for Lps. 400 to Lps. 500 per hour.

"On a good night we can make up to two thousand lempiras," said Flores López.  Popular sentimental songs such as "La Mentira", "Sublime Mujer", "Ni tuya ni mia" and "Amor sin amor no sirve" are among the most solicited by the public, he said.  At the end of each weekend, profits are split equally among the five artists, including Julia, who said she has her own savings account.

MORE THAN ARTISTS

But playing and singing aren't the main occupations of these folkloric characters.  Their involvement with "show biz" is actually derived from the musical instrument workshop that Flores López established several years ago.  

"In the early eighties, my father-in-law showed me how to play the guitar, but I was not happy with only that.  I wanted to know how to make one," he said.  So the costeno quit his job as a street peddler and established a small guitar-making business in his own home.  At the same time, he sought the services of a good music teacher to improve his playing ability.

After overcoming a rough period due to the lack of access to adequate raw materials, Flores Ramirez's workshop now produces an average of 25 instruments a month, with prices ranging between Lps. 600 and Lps. 1000.  The products include guitars and violins made of Honduran wood.  "We have customers who come from Tegucigalpa, San Pedro Sula, Trujillo, and tourists who buy the instruments as souvenirs," he said.

"Performing songs is complementary and serves as a distraction to get out of the routine, and at the same time it allows us to make some extra money," said Angel Rodolfo, one of Flores López nephews.

He added that since Julia joined the group they are more careful in their selection of the places they visit and they return home earlier so she doesn't get too tired.  Julia is currently in fourth grade at the local elementary school.

While this situation might be viewed as a form of child exploitation derived from the difficult economic conditions prevailing in the country, Julia Catalina affirms that when she grows up, she will continue to play her beloved viruela.  "If I don't, I would just miss it too much."

 

Book review

Tracking Francisco Morazan through history

 By MELANIE WETZEL

"Huellas del Jaguar" is the newest work by Honduran author Edilberto Borjas Guzman.  In this novella, the award-winning author of "El Tolupan de la Flor" and various dramatic productions takes on one of Central American literature's greatest historical figures -- Francisco Morazan.

The book offers a series of short literary photographs, presenting a brief fictional look, not only at the life of Gen. Morazan and his contemporaries, but also at the influence Morazan has left imprinted on Honduras.

Beginning with Morazan's birth, attended by a gypsy from a traveling circus, the author uses vivid narrative to bring life to his own version of Francisco Morazan.  It is a Morazan for the new century -- a fervent supporter of literacy and education; a fearless hero who despaired over the ignorance that ruled early 19th Century Central America.

Though the stories often tell of the man himself, they also show the image of Morazan reflected through those who knew him; the soldiers who fought alongside him and joined in his shout for popular education, the despots who sought to destroy him, and the people who believed in him.

A leader and legend, Borjas' Morazan is said to have taught the people of Moroceli to read and write, and they were so grateful that they in turn taught him witchcraft.  His famous escapes from his many enemies were thus attributed to his ability to turn into a jaguar.

Morazan and his life have been dramatized throughout Latin American literature.  The mythology that surrounds him can make it difficult to separate fact from fiction, and he begins to appear God-like in the eyes of those that study him.  One questions if the man could have possibly been so wise, and so true.

The facts are convincing.  From Guatemala to Costa Rica, Morazan created a revolution that resulted in the Independence of Central America, and became its first president.  He stood up against the tyranny of the Catholic church in the former colonies, and was an ardent advocate for freedom of religion.  He believed in education as the soul of a people.

"Huella del Jaguar" paints a vivid and magical Francisco Morazan that convinces the reader that Morazan succeeded against all odds because he was right and just, faithful to the people he led.  And, just maybe, because he had a little witchcraft on his side.

Cultural Briefs

Jazz groups perform

Honduran music lovers recently were treated to performances by two outstanding jazz groups.  One was the Elios and Boulou Ferre French duet, considered the only group that is keeping the heritage of Paris' swing alive.  They have preserved the authentic sounds of the Hot Club Quintet to which their father belonged, yet they have been able to evolve and place these sounds in the exact context of a not-so-nostalgic reality.

Meanwhile, the Matt Ray Trio Jazz Ambassadors, made up of North Americans Matt Ray, Mike Hawkins and Aaron Thruston, tour three Honduran cities, as well as providing a concert-workshop for students of the National Music School.

Ray, Hawkins and Thruston have performed with such big jazz names as Joe Henderson, John Hicks, Wessell Anderson and Roy Hargrove.

The Matt Ray Trio Jazz Ambassadors is just one of 10 groups touring 70 countries as part of the centennial celebrations of the birth of jazz great Duke Ellington.  The tours are sponsored by the U.S. government.

 

Monday, June 5, 2000 Online Edition 23

Book Review

New book takes a close look at gangs, juvenile violence in Honduras

U.S. style gang graffitti in HondurasEmployers who have hired gang members have been surprised to find their business decorated with gang graffiti: like this symbol from the M-18 gang. (Photo by Wendy Griffin.)

By WENDY GRIFFIN

Crime is on the rise in Honduras. While in most Third World countries, heart problems, respiratory diseases and diarrhea illnesses are the leading causes of death, in the department of Cortés, where San Pedro Sula is located, violence and AIDS are the first two causes of death. The general public feels that youth crime is an important component of this, especially if young adults between 18 - 24 years old are included.

CEDOH is the Center for Honduran Documentation, located in Tegucigalpa. Its mission is to collect, classify, and divulge information necessary for understanding the Honduran reality. It is primarily famous for its documentation of the Honduran labor movements and the repercussions of Contra War era politics.

With the help of three Honduran sociologists, in 1999 the center undertook an analysis of juvenile delinquency here. The results were published with the help of the Swedish Association for International Development under the title "La Delincuencia Juvenile en Honduras," which is for sale through bookstores like Librería Guaymuras and Café Paraíso.

A recent phenomena in Honduras are street gangs, known as pandillas or maras. The names of the two largest street gangs -- Mara Salvatrucha (MS) and M-18 (also XVIII) -- show their American origins. Mara Salvatrucha began in the 1980s in Los Angeles with primarily Salvadoran members, when there was a lot of immigration due to the civil war in El Salvador. M-18 began as a Mexican gang from 18th street on Los Angeles in the 1950s.

Some researchers say gang members are entrepreneurs. This sign in Trujillo shows that the "Blood franchise" is in full expansion in Honduras, offering their regular line of services -- sale of stolen goods, arms sales, and drugs for every budget and taste. (Photo by Wendy Griffin.)

The principal influence of the U.S. gangs is to help define what is gang cultural life and the model of organization for Honduran gangs and gang members, although most of the gang members have never been to the United States. Through interviews, the sociologists document the ties to these U.S.-Latino street gangs, maintained by young people deported from the United States for crimes, as well as people who go back and forth because they are legal residents of the United States.

CRIPS AND BLOOD

Because this book documents Ladino gangs in Tegucigalpa, the authors did not detect the influence of Crips and Bloods that Garífunas deported principally from the Bronx in New York bring back with them. One deported Garífuna looked at the young thieves here and said, "these people do not know what they are doing." He set about organizing a group of young people to be "better" gang members, engaged in robbery and drug sales.

Movies with black gangs also influence young Garífunas on how to dress and act, so they can be as "cool" as their U.S. cousins. "These young people only learn foolishness from the U.S. They do not learn other things like working hard," one woman complained.

Just in Tegucigalpa there are an estimated 7,035 gang members who belong to 71 gangs. The police report ages of gang members between 11 and 30 years old, although the CEDOH sociologists found members as young as six. In San Pedro Sula, the Interinstitutional Committees for the Prevention and Rescue of Young People in Gangs (COPREMA) reports that there are 105 gangs, with about 5,500 young members.

Mayors in most parts of the country reported the presence of gangs, except among rural Lencas in Lempira and southern Francisco Morazán. While in cities youth are often underemployed and have time on their hands, in Honduras' rural areas they are already doing full day's work as adults, building homes, and beginning a family. Many Lenca families also encourage young men to join the Army.

The sociologists interviewed 55 gang members held for breaking the law. A previous study had found 50 percent lived with both their parents, while only 5 percent lived in the streets. In this study, 47 percent lived only with their mother, 20 percent lived alone, 26 percent lived with family members other than parents, and only 7 percent lived with both parents. The lack of a father figure, then, is an important factor in joining a gang.

Also many of the gang members entered high school, although they frequently dropped out. They mostly came from poor families whose parents work long hours and whose families did not approve of their activities in gangs. San Pedro Sula with its high number of single mothers working in the maquila industry may be particularly susceptible to this trend.

GENERATION CONFLICT

Garífunas who worked their whole lives also report this kind of intergenerational conflict. On woman was afraid to have her grandchildren in her store because they steal money and soft drinks. She has already lost a son, who was shot by the police while committing a crime. Another man is afraid to have his grandchildren in his house because they steal and his greatest concern is a nephew deported from the United States for dealing in illegal drugs.

The principal crimes committed by young gang members are assault, theft, using drugs and making a scandal in public areas. As young people, both men