The Bay Islands Hottest Investment Deals!!

Bird watching excellent at Pico Bonito park

Hundreds of different bird species can be observed at Pico Bonito National Park.

By ROBERT GALLARDO 

Ever gone bird watching in a Honduran lowland rain forest?  There is now a new place to look for and observe the feathered friends of the North Coast.

The Lodge at Pico Bonito, located just west of La Ceiba in the village of El Pino, offers bird enthusiasts 160 acres where 272 species have been recorded and roam, flit, sally, soar and fly unhindered.  Resort guests have access to the its loop trail that leads up into the lower reaches of Pico Bonito National Park, as well as its observation platform and two observation towers.  One can bird in forest, along pristine rivers and plantation areas then return to all the amenities the lodge offers.

A bird guide/checklist covers all recorded species within 48 families and is available in the reception area as well as copies in all rooms.  The guide directs birders as to where each species may be found, as well as give other pertinent information.  A map divides the area into five zones, which further facilitates in locating potential sightings.

Up on the trail on has the chance of spotting rarities such as yellow-eared toucanet, keel-billed motmot, three hawk eagle species, bananaquit, lovely cotinga, rufous-winged tananger, king vulture, collared forest-falcon and many more.  Commonly seen along the trail are doves (eight species), toucans (four species), woodpeckers (seven species), woodcreepers (nine species), trogans (five species), hummingbirds (15 species), and an array of warblers and flycatchers.

From the observation platform one has a view of the Colorodito River Valley where white hawks are commonly seen as well as other raptors.  From the lower tower one gets an excellent bird's eye view of an Oropendula colony that bursts with activity during the nesting season.  Mixed flocks commonly pass through there.  Using the towers and doing the entire loop may take 2 - 4 hours and yield more than 30 rain forest species.

The shy sunbittern, white-necked jacobin, kingfishers, black phoebe and white-whiskered puffbird can be found along the rivers.

Along the entrance road and plantation areas are found yet another set of birds.  Parrots abound (six species), the ruddy crake and tinamou commonly call from the tall grasses around the butterfly farm and the laughing falcons holler from the trees above.  Parakeets scream by in flocks of 50 or more.  Trogans coo from shady perches.  Brown jays constantly gang up on perched raptors.  Melodious blackbirds sing their melodies as saltators chuckle in the bushes.  And then there is the ever present kiskadee who seems to say, "Hello there."

In the evening pauraques, potoos, nightjars and owls rule the night skies, not to forget the bugs and bats. A walk starting around 7 a.m. near the plantation areas and going up the trail can yield from 40‑60 species.  Late afternoon walks often produce yet different ones.

Insect repellent is advisable for the months of September through February.  Good books to bring are: The Birds of Panama, 2nd Edition, by R.S. Ridgely and National Geographic's Birds of North America to cover migrants.  Ziploc bags to ditch books and gear from sudden downpours are a good idea.  The forest trail is steep in places, but have steps.

Lodge guides and staff are available to accompany guests on walks at no additional charge.  Also available upon request at a charge are specialized guiding services by prior arrangement. 

The Bay Islands Hottest Investment Deals!!

Nation's first true eco-lodge opens in Pico Bonito park

Spectacular natural surroundings, first class service and many ecotourism options are available at The Lodge at Pico Bonito

Replicas of Maya stelae and cravings decorate the lawn of the eco-lodge at Pico Bonito.

By HOWARD ROSENZWEIG

LA CEIBA -- The newly opened The Lodge at Pico Bonito is Honduras' first and only truly world class eco-lodge. Located in the buffer zone of the Pico Bonito National Park, the lodge offers up great ecotourism, luxurious accommodations and all the amenities a guest could ask for.

The lodge, which opened in June, offers 22 rooms on the site of a former coffee and cacao plantation nestled at the base of Pico Bonito National Park. Beautiful architecture, spectacular natural setting, great service and ecotourism options are in abundance.

Accommodations at the lodge are in duplex cabins with all the amenities one would expect in a fine eco-resort. Wonderfully comfy beds, Mexican tiled bath, a lovely hand-painted porcelain sink, rattan furnishings, ceiling fans, fresh flowers, large wooden louvered windows with a view of the surrounding forest, soft lighting and a host of other details make these, probably the finest room stock of any Honduran resort.

Duplex cabins are fitted with all the usual amenities and much more, making them some of the finest accommodations available anywhere in Honduras.

The rooms are also notable for what they don't have -- you won't find any TV or air conditioning here, just the gentle whir of ceiling fans, the distant sounds of the Coloradito River and the singing of birds. For guests who would like a bit of music in their room, it is recommended to bring a couple of favorite CDs along, since each room has a CD player.

OUTSTANDING SERVICE
Service at The Lodge really shines. There is a local staff of 36, all well trained and guest-service oriented. General Manager Mike Wendling, who has 16 years of experience managing fine resorts in Belize and Costa Rica, has assembled the finest staff of any hotel in Honduras. From the personal guided tour of the property and welcome cocktail served to recently arrived guests, to the attentive friendly wait staff, to the attendant who comes to your room in the evening while you are out dining to turn down the bed, leave a bucket of ice, turn on the ceiling fan and leave chocolate mints on your pillow, the service here is truly outstanding and four star. 

Food at the Lodge is a real treat. Breakfast is taken on the private porch of your cabin. The evening prior, guests may indicate to the reception at what time they would like their morning meal. Breakfast, which is delivered by a personal waiter in truly world-class style, consists of fresh fruit and freshly squeezed orange juice, warm homemade bread, jams, butter and coffee from their own coffee plantation. Plates come garnished with an exotic and sensual assortment of tropical flowers.

As you sit on your private porch with that special someone, contemplating the early morning tropical forest with all its wonderful aromas and strange sounds of birds chirping, cackling and singing, sipping a steaming cup of fresh brewed coffee, one comes to the realization that mornings just don't get much better than this.
Lunch, taken in the spacious airy dining room or out on the veranda, is a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. The midday views of the towering mountains of Pico Bonito -- which translates to Beautiful Peak -- are magnificent. The food as well is a treasure to behold. Chef Susanna, a La Ceiba native, works miracles in the kitchen, whipping up such lunch specialties as whole fried fish, tender pork ribs, chewy quesadillas, tangy grilled chicken, a juicy rib eye steak and spicy chicken fajitas. 

However the previous two meals are merely the coming attractions to the feast that the chef and her staff serve up at the evening meal. Dinners at the lodge are worth e-mailing home about. Grilled lobster, steak, shrimp, homemade soup and salad, all followed by an inventive freshly prepared dessert such as tropical sorbet with lightly fried chewy bananas on top or a rich slab of cheesecake.

UNUSUAL APERITIFS
The complimentary after dinner aperitif is a great way to finish off the meal. When I was there we were served the traditional Garifuna firewater guifity and the next evening a shot of traditional home brewed chicha, which is basically a fermented fruit-based potion that is commonly found in small villages throughout Honduras.

As the evening hours slide away and the table top candles flicker, the post dinner center of activity moves a few steps out onto the spacious open air veranda. Think Hemingway here -- ample rattan furnishings with soft, comfortable cotton cushions, ceiling fans gently whirring above, soft lighting and freshly cut flowers are everywhere. The evening hum of a million insects of all types add their voices to the cool, still night air. On a nearby beam hangs a bunch of fresh ripe-for-the-eatin' bananas for guests who still have some room left after the immense dinner. Note: For those who are accustomed to eating those bananas one commonly finds in most supermarkets in the United States and Europe, one will immediately recognize the difference. These bananas are rich, sweet and full of flavor, so unlike the tasteless ones that Americans slice on their breakfast cereals. 

Any time of the day or night the Carbunclo Bar is a corner of quiet respite or a hub of activity, depending on the guests that particular day. The bar, named after a local insect called the headlight beetle, is cozy and comfortable. Adjacent to the bar is an excellent reference library with an outstanding collection of books on birds, animals, butterflies, flowers, insects, eco-tourism and Maya archeology. The library also has a large screen TV with a dizzying array of satellite channels, the perfect place to watch the big Sunday afternoon game with that frozen margarita and a complimentary bowl of homemade salsa and chips.
The grounds of the property are lovingly tended by a small army of gardeners. Tropical plants abound in all sizes, shapes and colors. There are fruits growing all over the property: mango, orange, lime, plantain, banana, guanabana (soursop), maracuya (passion fruit), maranon (cashew apple), pineapple, mora (raspberry), tamarind, litchis. Just reach up and grab some right off the tree.

RAIN FOREST HIKE
For most guests, the three-hour hike up into the rain forest of the Pico Bonito National Park is the most thrilling part of their stay. The moderately strenuous hike is led by a trained naturalist. Highlights of the hike included viewing a keel billed toucan from the towering bird-watching platform that looks out over the rain forest canopy, and coming across a troop of playful and naughty monkeys high up in the forest canopy that, angry at our presence, proceeded to rain down on us an avalanche of small sticks, leaves and one large branch!
Bird watching is a prime attraction that draws serious birders to Pico Bonito. As of July, the lodge's bird list stood at 283 different species. A bird checklist is available on request. As serious birders can attest, to really see the most birds one must get an early start. The best viewing is between the hours of 6 a.m. and 7:30 a.m.

The forest also abounds in animal life, although viewing wildlife is often a hit or miss proposition. Sightings have been made of agoutis, ant eaters, rabbits, wild turkeys, snakes, lizards and a dizzying variety of insects in every shape, size and color imaginable.

Toward the end of the hike, the trail winds its way down the mountain and links up with the Rio Coloradito where the mighty river slows down to form a large, gentle natural pool that is perfect for swimming. After a couple of hours of hot, sweaty, strenuous hiking, there is nothing better than a dip in the cool, crystal clear waters of the river.

ECO-ACTIVITIES
In addition to the rain forest hike, which is free of charge for guests, the lodge offers a number of other tours and activities to keep active guests as busy as they want to be. A working butterfly farm houses 40-plus species of live free flying butterflies, great for kids.

Other trips for an additional charge can be made to other North Coast eco-attractions such as the Rio Zacate waterfalls and the Cuero Salado Wildlife Refuge, where one can visit a pristine coastal mangrove biosphere that is a great place for bird watching -- 198 species have been logged here. For white water adrenaline junkies, there is white water rafting on the Cangrejal River. The Lancetilla Botanical Gardens is one of the largest tropical gardens in the world with over 630 species of plants, the world's largest collection of Asian fruits, an orchid garden and great birding opportunities. Punta Sal National Park, the crown jewel of Honduras' marine parks located just west of Tela, features lagoons, beaches, snorkeling, 270 species of birds and typical Garifuna villages. Cayos Cochinos, an archipelago of small cays, is a protected marine reserve that has received support from the Smithsonian Institute.
According to Mike Wendling, general manager of the lodge, the property is unique due to its philosophy to cater to the guests total needs, "for us service is number one, our staff will drop everything to serve a guest, which is precisely what sets us apart from most jungle lodges. After a hot, sweaty jungle hike, our guests get pampered with cocktails, gourmet food and a host of amenities."

BIG RESPONSIBILITY
He added, "Being the first eco-lodge in Honduras is a special responsibility, we want it to be not only the best in Honduras but the finest in Central America. Our lodge is setting the standard for what top quality, world class ecotourism should be like in Honduras in the future. We anticipate that ecotourism professionals from around the world will be watching our project to see how it performs in this market."
For Wendling, the area around La Ceiba has a tremendous number of activities, all easily accessible from the lodge. It will be used as a base where guests can choose from a wide variety of high quality eco-tours. Another advantage is that the lodge is a mere 10-minute drive from the international airport in La Ceiba and a 20-minute drive to the city of La Ceiba itself. The lodge provides complimentary door-to-door transfers to the airport, bus station or downtown La Ceiba.

In terms of Honduras' entry in the ecotourism niche market, Wendling, an expert in the field, offered Belize as a nearby case in point. "Belize has developed an excellent system of high-quality jungle lodges. It has Mayan ruins, jungle, beaches, reefs and plenty of nature... the three R's -- ruins, reef and rain forest," he said.

"In the emerging ecotourism market, our job is to educate wholesalers, the travel public... that Honduras is a player. Unlike Costa Rica and Belize, Honduras has an even greater supply of untapped ecotourism products to offer.

"Our lodge is a product that Honduras can be proud of," he said, "it's a sustainable resort and we are contributing to the perpetual protection of the Pico Bonito National Park... It's in our best interest to preserve and maintain the natural environment to protect our ecotourism product."
For more information, call (in the United States) 1-888-428-0221 or (outside the United States and Canada) 954-572-1902; fax 954-572-1907, (in Honduras) 440-0388; or e-mail: <reservations@TerraFirmaAdventures.com> or <picobonito@caribe.hn>; web site: <http://www.picobonito.com>. 

The Bay Islands Hottest Investment Deals!!

Best of Honduras, Part XIII 

Best Department Store: San Pedro Sula

The winner here is Diunsa.  Wal Mart it ain't, but it's the next best thing around.  Lots of departments, lots of air conditioning, lots of parking and conveniently located on the road out toward the airport.  Prices are a bit higher than what you'd find in the States, but then again just about everything is imported, which means higher sticker prices and increased sticker shock.

Best Place for Gringo Expats to Really Get Away from it All: Trujillo.  

The North Coast town of Trujillo has a lot going for it: miles of untouched white sand beaches, towering mountains of virgin forest that fringe the coast, one of the best Caribbean deep water ports in Central America, fascinating local Garifuna culture and great seafood.  Taken all together, the place should be a natural for tourism development and an up-and-coming site for retired and soon to retire gringo expats.

But since we are in Honduras, things do not always work out the way one would think them to.  About 10 years ago, all eyes looked to Trujillo Bay as the next up-and-coming tourism pole and gringo hangout on the North Coast.  Expats bought beach front and hillside properties and plans were drawn up for all kinds of tourism related development.  The owner of a Honduran airlines even was so bold as to build a humongous beach front hotel adjacent to the airstrip.  Some Americans built another hotel also adjacent to the airstrip.  For a time Trujillo was even the number one place in Honduras to study Spanish.  Things were looking up.

However, plans for Trujillo did not pan out.  The crowds of

tourists and expats did not materialize and all the Spanish schools closed.  As I am not an expert on Trujillo, I would defer to someone who knows the situation on the ground better than I to expound on exactly what went wrong in Trujillo.  You can write me at my e-mail below.  But anyway, if you're looking for a spectacular Caribbean setting and a place where you can really blend in with the locals and hide from the tourist hordes (although

Honduras gets little in the way of crowds of tourists), Trujillo is your ticket.

Best Laundry: Copan Ruinas

The Justo a Tiempo Laundry just happens to be the place to wash your duds in Copan Ruinas.  As well, Justo a Tiempo does double duty as a cafe, bakery, book exchange, tourism information center and just all around cool place to hang around and shoot the breeze.

Best Web Surfing Town in Honduras: Copan Ruinas

Although I am somewhat partial to Copan Ruinas (I have lived here for over five years now), Copan certainly takes top honors in this category.  With a population of only a few thousand, Copan Ruinas boasts two longtime Internet entrepreneurs: Copan Net run by Carlitos and Maya Connections (which has two locations in town) run by Sandra.  In addition, there is a new kid on the block who has recently begun to offer Internet service at the Llama del Bosque restaurant and the Hotel Camino Maya is about to open an Internet cafe as well, just off the Central Park.  So, no matter where you are in Copan Ruinas, you are literally never more than a couple of blocks away from an online connection.

Best Transport: Copan Ruinas -- La Ceiba

The Viana bus line runs first-class coaches (notice I did not use the word bus here because these vehicles are truly luxury class).  Coaches feature bathroom, seats that are deeply cushioned and recline fully, on-board stewardess, complimentary beverage and snack and "in flight" movie.  To tell you the truth, this coach is a lot more comfortable than some flights that I've been on!  In San Pedro Sula, the bus station is located just behind Wendy's on the

Circunvalacion. Info: San Pedro Sula 556-9261, La Ceiba 441-2330.  The coach also runs as far as Tegucigalpa.  Info at: Tel 235-8184.

Best Guidebook to Honduras

There are a number of guides to choose from which can ordered at any decent bookstore in the United States.  There is the newly updated, "Honduras Handbook" by Chris Humphrey; "Honduras: Adventures In Nature" by James Gollin and Ron Mader; and the "Honduras & Bay Islands Guide" authored by yours truly.  Because I cannot be exactly objective here, I will not attempt to come up with my pick for the Best Honduran Guidebook.  I'll leave that to you, the readers.  Send your pick to me at my e-mail below and I'll tally the results and print them in a future column.

Best Botanical Gardens

The Lancetilla Botanical Gardens, just outside of Tela, is the Numero Uno in the country.  A fantastic place to get a birds-eye view of a huge variety of tropical trees and flowers.  Don't miss the orchid collection.  Cheapest way to get out there is to hop a taxi in Tela.  For those with more funds available, hook up with Garifuna Tours in Tela for a tour with a bilingual guide and transportation included.

Howard Rosenzweig, a U.S. expatriate living in the Village of Copan Ruinas, is the owner of the Casa de Cafe Bed and Breakfast.  He can be contacted at e-mail <casadecafe@mayanet.hn>.

The Best of Honduras, Part XII 

Best Place To Swim With The Dolphins

Dolphin swims have become the "cool" thing to do in recent years and Honduras has one great place to engage in a little "Flipper fun in the sun."  Anthony's Key Resort on Roatan offers a private lagoon, comfortable cabins, a fleet of custom dive boats, an on site museum and marine sciences center, as well as the dolphin snorkel and dolphin scuba program.  Info: http://www.anthonys-keys.com; e-mail: akr@gate.net

Best Eco Adventure: Hard Core

Check out the wilds of the Mosquito Coast: Coastal lagoons, vast stretches of beach, pristine rain forest, serpentine rivers and the indigenous Miskito natives are all there.  Initial access into most parts of La Mosquitia is via small plane, from there transport slows down a bit.  Ecotourists will use a variety of methods from modern outboard launches to roughly hewn dugout canoes carved from a single mahogany tree to wooden canoes powered by an expert boatman with a long pole.  Info: La Mosquitia Ecoaventuras http://www.honduras.com/moskitia; e-mail: moskitia@laceiba.com

Best Ecoaventure: Soft Core

For the arm chair ecotourist who likes to combine a bit of luxury with a healthy dose of pristine nature, The Lodge at Pico Bonito is the place.  The Lodge boasts all the civilized amenities one could hope for along with great nature all around you.  Info:  http://www.picobonito.com; e-mail: picobonito@caribe.hn

Best Typical Foods to Sample on Your Next Trip

Starting at the sea, whole fried fish with a side of fried plantains, coleslaw and a wedge of lime; lobster and shrimp in garlic sauce; and seafood soup (a meal in itself) made with coconut milk.  Moving inland, the menu becomes more beef and chicken oriented: Pinchos (shish kabob) made with beef, chicken or sausage; pupusas are corn flour tortillas filled with cheese or fried pork rinds and spices (sounds weird but very yummy ); anafre is basically the Honduran equivalent of a Swiss fondue where refried beans are mixed with cheese and sausage and heated in a ceramic pot right on your table (goes great with the local beers); nacatamales are corn flour, meat, potatoes, spices all wrapped up in a banana leaf and then boiled (they are especially popular around Christmas time).

Best Tour Route for a Two-Week Vacation

As the average North American is lucky to get two weeks per year of vacation (versus a heck of a lot more for the average European worker), most American travellers are looking to make the best use of their limited vacation time.  For Honduras-bound travellers this winter, here's a recommended itinerary: Fly into San Pedro Sula, Honduras' number one gateway city.  San Pedro is better known for its number one export product, women's underwear that is shipped primarily to the United States, than as a tourist destination.  But if you are into women's underwear, a visit to one of the maquilas or export factories that produce those exquisite undergarments may be arranged.

From San Pedro Sula, head to Copan Ruinas for a few nights.  Copan is one of the top Mundo Maya archaeological sites and there is a bevy of other activities: horseback riding, hot springs, butterfly farm, hiking, birding and the quaint, charming village of Copan Ruinas.

From Copan, head to the North Coast, passing through San Pedro Sula where one can hop a puddle jumper flight to La Ceiba or a nice first class or chicken bus to the coast.  North Coast hot spots include Tela, which boasts Punta Sal National Park, the Punto Izopo Coastal Reserve and the Lancetilla Botanical Gardens.  Further down the road La Ceiba has Pico Bonito Natl Park and the Cuero Salado Coastal Reserve, as well as rafting on the Cangrejal River.

From La Ceiba, there is easy access via puddle jumper flights and daily ferry service to the islands of Roatan, Utila and Guanaja.  Each island has its own special flavor and is very distinct in its own way.

From the Bay Islands, one must now backtrack to San Pedro Sula once again to catch a return flight.  Don't forget to stock up on a few dozen lovely pieces of women's undergarments, proudly "Made in Honduras" for that special someone on your Christmas list this year.  It sure beats that stuffed frog ashtray you have been avoiding all trip long.

Howard Rosenzweig, a U.S. expatriate living in the Village of Copan Ruinas, is the owner of the Casa de Cafe Bed and Breakfast.  He can be contacted at e-mail <casadecafe@mayanet.hn>.

The Bay Islands Hottest Investment Deals!!