Driving to Honduras

Driving is most certainly a viable way to get to Honduras. I've driven it many times and consider myself a veteran of the highway. From the San Francisco Bay Area it takes me ten days, driving only during the day going from 350 to 500 miles a day. Total distance for me is about 4000 miles. Each time it becomes more enjoyable and in my opinion is safer than ever.

There are three routes through Mexico, one is along the Atlantic Coast (actually the Gulf of Mexico), second is through Central Mexico and Mexico City and the third is by way of the Pacific Coast. I've traveled all three and the Pacific Coast route is by far the best, the road is in much better condition. In addition you pass some really great places, Puerta Vallarta, Mazatl‡n, Acapulco and delightful places like La Barra de Navidad and Puerto Escondido to name just a few.

If your objective is to drive to Honduras, than the Central route bogs you down too much in Mexico City and surrounding area. The Atlantic route is just plain hard on your car and scenic and delightful places are fewer, if Veracruz was not on it, it would be hopeless. Head for the Pacific Coast and go right on down. I've driven it often without being stopped by the military police even one time. However a new crack down is in progress to stop illegal immigration into Mexico. Increased road check points can be expected. Most often once they see your “gringo” face they will wave you on. Strangely Hispanics are harder on Hispanics. However if you have a fluent Spanish speaker, have that person deal with the officials. All things being equal in these situations, border officials or customs inspectors, have a woman talk to a man or a man talk to a woman.

Often when stopped, the police (or military) will ask where are you going (donde viene?), just tell them the next tourist town. Looking like a tourist helps too.

Here are a few tips you might consider:

• Contact the AAA for a map and the Mexico booklet. Ask also for current road advisories. If you are not a member ask a friend to get this for you.

• Mexico vehicle travel information can be obtained from 1-900-454-8277 ($1.99 per minute). This number provides very helpful information. The person I spoke to had a heavy Mexican accent, but I needed to ask to repeat what I didn't understand.

• Get Mexican auto insurance, U.S. insurance is not valid. You can get it when you cross the border or from AAA. It's not too expensive. I'm not sure how much good it is, but just to be hassle free, it is worth it. You can purchase only the time you need, no need to get a years insurance when only a month or two is needed.

• Make sure your vehicle is in excellent shape. You don't need a 4 wheel drive, passenger cars are just fine. I drive older vehicles, Volkswagen , Nissan or Toyota. Parts for these vehicles are easier to obtain. One of you should have at least a basic knowledge of auto mechanics. Check the car before you leave, replace any working, but worn parts that may give you trouble. Carry an extra set of all filters (air, gas and oil) as well as belts. Have a good mechanic check it, if you have any doubts. Tires and spare should be in excellent condition. With todays excellent tires, one spare should do the trick. Don't overload your vehicle with weight, this could cause problems. Carry a tool chest with the basics as well as repair tape and wire. Make sure your tire jack and wrench are in working order. You can expect to use it at least once. I have been told of new regulations limiting you to two spare tires and two quarts of oil. Both tires and oil can be purchased in Mexico as needed. If you do decide to carry a second spare, have it already mounted and ready.

• Don't drive alone, have at least one other person with you. It's a long trip, make sure they are compatible, able to have patience and stand many days of driving. You'll be sharing quite an adventure.

• Carry your auto registration and vehicle ownership papers with you. A Mexican tourist visa is required. Have your passport, auto insurance papers, Guatemalan and Honduran visas as well as photocopies of everything.

We usually enter Mexico at Nogales (Mexico and Arizona), head for Hermosillo and then on to the coast. Traveling on to Tapachula on the Guatemalan border and then through Guatemala, Guatemala City, Esquipulas entering Honduras near Nueva Octotepeque (Aqua Caliente border crossing).

Use the high grade gasoline, regular leaded is really bad as well as clogging the gas filter. Unleaded gasoline is available in Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, and Costa Rica, but not in Honduras, Belize or Nicaragua. To use leaded gasoline you'll need a funnel to put the gasoline in your “unleaded restricted” gas tank. I usually spend about 30 minutes and remove the restrictor. Should you find yourself with a tiny hole, put a screw, washer and nut tightly in and that solves that. You can then put leaded gas in your vehicle usually without adjustment. It'll burn out your catalytic converter of course. Normally auto service is not required, however Mexican border mechanics are expert at hollowing out or removing the converter if need be (this is illegal in the US). Think in terms of putting in a used catalytic converter when you return or putting your removed converter back on.

You can expect to pay $1.55 per gallon for Magna Sin in US dollars. Magna Sin is unleaded gasoline.

You can also expect to pay rather high toll charges. There are miles of new highways (cuota) in Mexico that have been privately built, and Mexicans and tourists must pay the fees. Usually, however, there is a non-toll road (libre) going in the same direction for those who want to save money. Most Mexicans cannot afford the toll roads and they are eerily vacant. The libre roads are often two lane and crowded.

I'd like to emphasize that traveling during the daylight hours is recommended. I try to do this as a general rule, getting up early in the morning and driving to dusk. But I often break my own rule and go into the evening to find a good place to stay. I know people that have driven to Honduras in five days from California, they do it as a group, taking turns to drive and going almost continuously. This is just too much for me, I like to enjoy it more.

Challenging road conditions worsen at night, some Mexican drivers do not use headlights claiming it is saving them gasoline, cattle or horses on the roadway make it even more dangerous at night.

You won't be traveling very far into Mexico before you will be encountering speed bumps. They are called “topes” (or sometimes “bustos”) and are usually at the entrances and exits to small towns. Some are concrete blocks, others iron bullets in a row and still others are a stretch of rises in the road called”vibradores” which give the car and everything in it a shiver and shake massage. Sometimes these topes extend pretty high on the roadway, on one trip I had an automobile that was rather low on the roadway, the tailpipe and muffler kept hitting the “topes” and eventually came off several times.

Turn signals take on a different meaning in Mexico. Often a left turn signal on the vehicle in front of you is a sign letting you know it is safe to pass. Flashing headlights while passing lets oncoming cars know what you are doing.

While in Mexico we stay in excellent motels costing about $25 to $35 a night. If I absolutely have to, I'll go up to $45 or $50. I know college students that find places to stay in the $10 range and less. Restaurant meals are economical averaging about $3 to $5. The devaluation of the peso has made little difference in many “tourist” areas as prices are pegged to the U.S. dollar.

CROSSING INTO OTHER COUNTRIES

Crossing from the U.S. into Mexico is not a hassle if you have prepared yourself. Anyone driving through Mexico in route to Central American countries must have a U.S. passport and the appropriate visa for each country to be visited.

All persons who plan to visit the interior are required to obtain a tourist card. Cards may be obtained upon proof of citizenship through Mexican government tourism offices or Mexican consulates in the U.S. They may also be obtained at Mexican government border offices at official points of entry.

Persons planning to leave and re-enter Mexico during the course of their travels should request Multiple Entry tourist cards and specifically request this type of card.

All tourist cards are free and single entry cards are valid for up to 90 days and must be returned to the Mexican border officials upon leaving Mexico. Multiple Entry cards are valid for up to six months.

If the tourist card is not used for up to 90 days from the date of issuance it becomes void and a new one must be issued. You must be out of Mexico by the time your card expires or you will be subject to a fine.

Minors (under 18) traveling with only one parent must have a notarized letter of consent, or when applicable, divorce, death certificate or guardianship papers.

Visas:

Mexico - can be issued at border, but getting a multiple entry tourist visa in advance would save time and perhaps aggravation. There is no charge. In the off chance that the border official doesn't know what a “multiple entry visa” is, it is recommended this be secured in advance.

Guatemala - must be obtained in advance through any Guatemalan Consulate (Re. phone call to San Francisco Guatemalan Consulate 5/1/95), no charge to U.S. citizens with passport.

Honduras - U.S. citizens with passports can have it issued at the Honduran border crossing. (Re. Honduran Consulate, 5/1/95). However Mexico and Guatemala may require you have ongoing visas. At least that is the official word.

General Mexican tourism information call 1-800-446-3942

After crossing into Mexico go to the Customs Vehicle Check Point (Aduana). Usually this is just a few yards from the border crossing point. You will than be required to fill out several forms: Temporary Import Permit, Vehicle Return Promise Agreement and a form called an FMT that asks for information such as your address, city, state, country and must be signed by you and will be given to an Immigration Officer in Mexico. The FMT form authorizes you to stay in Mexico for six months with multiple entry. You then need to proceed to Banjercito (Mexican Army Bank) with these three forms. There you will complete the vehicle security bond deposit.

You will be required to post a bond either by credit card, or cash bond or a bond on the value of your vehicle if it is older then a 1988 model. You sign a form promising to return the vehicle to the country of origin, and you must pay a $10.00 fee. By far the easiest way to satisfy this bond requirement is to allow a charge of the $10 plus a small fee usually in the amount of $3 to $5 dollars or $15 total. This can be charged to your Visa, MasterCard, Diners Club or American Express card. There are other ways of satisfying this, usually by the deposit of large sums of money. More information on this is in the Mexican book “Traveling to Mexico by Car” which is currently out of print. If you want a copy let me have your address and I will send it to you.

The posting of the bond has been a source of aggravation for some of our travelers. For more information may I suggest you refer to the AAA Mexico Travel Brook, 1994 edition pages 17 through 19. If you are not a member and can't get a friend to get this for you, please let me know, I'll copy it for you. Also it is recommended you contact the nearest Mexican Consulate for the latest update.

My recommendation is take a valid credit card with you, let them charge the $15 and grin and bear it.

Often persons traveling to Honduras carry lots of gifts, used clothing and so forth to give away in Honduras. Just be sure to declare this intention at the border crossing. I have been assured that this will not pose a problem unless it is of such a quantity as to be considered commercial merchandise in transit.

When exiting Mexico into Guatemala, you may be required to turn in some of your papers at the border. Be sure to hold on to your multiple entry visa and multiple entry vehicle permission. When you return and cross from Mexico into the U.S.A. you are required to turn in all your entry forms, be sure to do this as your vehicle bond must be canceled.

GAMES BORDER OFFICIALS LIKE TO PLAY

When crossing from one county into another there are a number of scams that the border officials like to use to get some of your money. This is a sampling of a few of them. They are presented as representative and it is hoped that this will make you more aware as you cross the boarder.

Your car must be inspected before you will be permitted to enter the country. Please take out everything and bring it inside the inspection building. After the inspection you will be permitted to bring it back to your vehicle and repack again.

O.K. it is true your vehicle needs to be inspected, but this can be done at your vehicle and it is really an unnecessary thing to take everything out and put it back again. Belize and Guatemala are especially good at this scam. In Guatemala there are a number of men at the border that earn a living carrying your possessions into the inspection building. Almost always you can negotiate with the inspector (usually the one assisting you with the papers) to have the car inspected with everything intact, but you will need to pay these “gentlemen” for their loss of work. About $1 each or so will do it, most often there are four or five to be paid.

If you don't have much, carry it in and you will see they will hardly look at it, they just say O.K. and you carry it back.

Your possessions may cause you problems after you enter the country. Other officials may think you brought your things in illegally. What is suggested is they will make a list of everything you brought and that will give you clear passage. The charge for this official looking document ranges from $50 to $100. The official only wants to do you a “favor.”

For the most part once you have entered into the country, if you are stopped by police or military they could care less if you have an official looking document. If their intent is to get a bribe, that document will prove worthless.

You must have copies of all your documents. Officials will claim they must have copies of your cars ownership papers, or other documents. The copy machine is broken or the official who does this is off today. You must pay extra to be allowed to enter.

Make extra copies of everything before you leave. Have at least three extra sets stashed away just for this purpose. Of course it's a scam, but what can you do.

Your car and perhaps you must be sprayed for insects. There is a small fee for this. Most often, just pay the fee, get sprayed and go on. I've heard people paying bribes to avoid this, the bribes are often more than the spraying fee. Hopefully a little insecticide won't ruin your day, leave the windows down for awhile.

CARRYING MERCHANDISE INTO MEXICO

If you are carrying merchandise then there are a number of additional concerns you will need to address. These are relatively new regulations and have been in effect for the last two years. It may be necessary to enter Mexico at the border crossing just south of Brownsville, Texas. You will be required to process Mexican paper work and a charge of $200 will be made (one person was told $300). You then will be permitted to travel on the Atlantic - Gulf of Mexico Route. This is considered a gateway and intransit route.

There is a distinction between bringing personal possessions or gifts for your family and friends and “merchandise.” Merchandise is obvious items imported for resale. The later must be pointed out at your time of entry and you are not supposed to have a problem with it.

Mexico has really come a long way in the past ten years in improving relations with tourists. Each year it seems to get easier, but this bonding requirement and now restrictions on carrying merchandise has put a bit of a wrinkle in it. I can understand the Mexican concerns, travelers may not sell their vehicles and merchandise in Mexico under any circumstances.

CROSSING INTO GUATEMALA

Crossing from Mexico into Guatemala takes patience, best to start early in the morning. First the Mexicans need to let you go. Be sure to indicate to the Mexican border authorities that you will be returning and therefore need to use your Tourist Card (FMT) and vehicle security deposit for the return. Then on to Guatemala where officialdom becomes an art form. There are so many stops for rubber stamping your head will swim, lastly is the preparing of the papers to actually cross. Sometimes, this step alone may take several hours.

Driving in Guatemala should proceed with caution. It's the military you are watching out for... They will probably stop you several times. Most often they want a small donation. But make them ask for it, rather than just offering. We often take along used clothing to pay our way. This requires a Spanish speaking person with finesse. Watch your speed and traffic laws, don't give them any excuse. Even after passing Guatemala City, keep up your vigilance. When you get to Esquipulas, then you can relax. Don't worry about the rebels, they are the least of your worries and chances are you will not encounter them.

Try to cross Guatemala in one day. Get out of there as fast as you can. If you do stay in Guatemala City, get a secure garage to store your car and watch for thievery everywhere. Be forewarned, they can break into your car in seconds and everything will be gone before you know it. It's a sad commentary, but be forewarned.

Guatemala City is confusing to drive. You'll want to go on to highway 9 to Honduras. Turn right on Puente Periferico and continue on to Avenida Marti. It's easy to get lost. Head for Esquipulas, carefully check the route on your map.

Esquipulas is a great place to stay the night. I recommend the Hotel Cristo Negro. If you have time, visit the cathedral. Esquipulas is a safe city for tourists and visitors, relax, enjoy. Once you make it there, you done it, it's on to glorious and safe Honduras.

CROSSING INTO HONDURAS

The check point going from Guatemala to Honduras is called Aqua Caliente. If you can't locate the name on the map, it's directly on the Honduran border near Esquipulas. They are only open for crossing from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. You'll need to allow time to complete the papers to cross and for a vehicle inspection. Travelers can expect a lengthy and meticulous search of their vehicles and belongings. If you arrive at Esquipulas late, my suggestion is stay the night at the Hotel Cristo Negro and go across in the morning. The Cristo Negro is completely locked at night, very safe! High walls completely surround the hotel/motel complex. If the gate is already locked when you get there, pound on the large metal door loudly. They'll let you in when you get their attention.

You'll need to check out of Guatemala, this is easy, much easier than getting in. In Honduras you'll go through some of the same things you did going into Guatemala, but not as many, and not taking quite as long. After you leave the Honduran border, you'll have a final check point about a quarter of a mile down the road, this is mainly to confirm that all entry requirements are completed. This will be your final check point apart from any unexpected military check along the way, perhaps you'll be lucky and they will have the day off. Please don't judge all Honduran roads by the condition of the one going from the border to Santa Rosa de Copan. The roads will get better, however, generally not as good as in Mexico or Guatemala unfortunately.

On your return trip usually you will be retracing the route that took you to Honduras. Crossing from Honduras to Guatemala requires checking out of Honduras and new paper work for entering Guatemala. Your Guatemalan visa is usually multiple entry so this should not be a problem. Strangely the paper work from Honduras to Guatemala is not as bad as from Mexico to Guatemala.

When you return to Mexico several of the forms you used to originally enter Mexico can be used for your return trip. For example the Tourist Card (FMT) allows multiple entry, your vehicle security deposit allows multiple entry and can be used for your return trip without the issuing of a new one. If there is any doubt check with the Mexican Consulate offices in San Pedro Sula and Tegucigalpa. If you do not have vehicle insurance, it can be obtained in Tapachula.

When you finally make it back to the U.S. - Mexican border, before you cross, go to the Mexican vehicle check point, they in turn may direct you to a Banjercito (Mexican Army Bank) office. Turn in your Temporary Import Permit and Vehicle Return Promise Agreement as well as your Tourist Card (FMT). Your vehicle security deposit will be returned or your bond agreement depending on which method you used to enter. DO NOT SIMPLY DRIVE ACROSS THE U.S. BORDER WITHOUT TAKING CARE OF THIS. Of course you can do it, and it's the simplest thing to do. But remember they do hold a bond on your vehicle, to avoid problems, take care of this before leaving Mexico or it will come back to haunt you.

Have a great visit to Honduras! And please let me know any advice to pass on to future travelers. The things I wrote here are constantly changing and up-to-date experiences are appreciated.

By-the-way for those who might be continuing into South America I have another email article entitled “How to Drive Into South America or How To Cross The Darien Gap.” Just ask for it!

Through The Darien Gap - An Adventurer's Guide...” -

For those hardy adventurers that want to cross by land I recommend the the article written by Patricia Upton, “Through The Darien Gap - an Adventurer's Guide for anyone interested in Crossing the Darien Gap of Panama and Colombia”. It is an account of her and her husbands journeys to conquer the Gap. It shows it can be done, but not without making it an adventure in itself. You can get her article direct from her . Email address patricia@dmi.com, mailing address P.O. Box 803, Salmon, ID 83467. The cost is $10.

Sanborn's Road Logs -

Mexplore@aol.com wrote:

“When we traverse unknown ground in Mexico by car, we use the road logs published by Sanborn's. They are free if you purchase their insurance, but you can also obtain them by joining their Mexico Club. Call 1-800-222-0158 for info. or email them at sanborns@hiline.net”

“Also regarding the Sanborn's road logs, they can be purchased by anyone; Mexico Club membership or insurance purchase is not required. The detail provided in the logs is not only informative but also entertaining.”

Revised 7/6/96

Brad Martin author of "Honduras Travel Guide"

Honduras1@aol.com

http://www.marrder.com/htg/

http://www.marrder.com/hw/travel/

"The people of Honduras are its greatest asset"

Copyrighted 1994, all rights reserved. This material may be copied online but may not be reproduced in print or on a CD-ROM without written permission from Brad Martin. Material is continually electronically revised and updated.